flying_bubba

I have a 2000 TL that I have owned since day one. I passed it off to my teenage kids several years ago. Other than the standard issues (transmission, leaking rear view mirror and leaking tail lights/water in the trunk) and standard maintenance (oil changes, timing belt/water pump/power steering pump at 105k, tires, brakes, etc.) it has been a great car. Last summer my son called and said it was running rough and the CEL was on. I checked it out and diagnosed it with a bad coil pack, which set me back about $50 at the local parts store and an hour of my time. Last week he called me and said the TCS and CEL lights both came on as he got off the freeway. He said it was not running rough nor was it over heating. He drove it home and we checked it out. It ran fine so I sent him to the local autoparts store for a code check. They told him the code was for a misfire, but they didn't give him the actual code. I pulled the clock fuse and reset the CEL and it has not come back on. I suspect we may have another coil pack going bad. Rather than wait for this to become an issue at an inconvenient time, I am considering buying 5 new coil packs (I just replaced one last summer so I only need 5 new ones) and 6 new spark plugs and doing the job in the next two weeks (I might seafoam it the week before we change the plugs). I know which spark plugs to buy. When I check Rock Auto for coils they have a broad range of options and prices as follows:

Ultra-Power (UF242) = $14.70 each.
Airtex/Wells (8N1) Advantech = $15.79 each.
Standard Motor Products (UF242T) T-series = $24.79 each.
AIRTEX / WELLS (5C1013) = $16.14 each.
WPS / POWER SELECT (CUF242) = $22.79 each.
SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT (C511) = $ 24.89 each.
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS (UF242) Intermotor = $29.79 each.
UNITED IGNITION WIRE (COP208) United Premium OEM replacement COP coil Complete Coil Assembly = $29.79

After that they are all >$30 each. My TL has 150K miles on it. I only plan on keeping it for a few more years, so I can't see spending more than $30 each on coils.

Should I replace the remaining 5 coils or is this a waste of time and money? Do you guys have a personal preference or recommendation based on the above info? Is there a better option than RockAuto for ignition coils?

Thanks in advance for the advice,
FB

Lordiv

Hey FB,

I have 280k on my 99. I have only had to replace one coil pack and that was last month. I honestly wouldn't consider buying 5 more. If you are truly concerned about the misfire happening again you could purchase 1 to have on hand. But I wouldn't spend all that money if you are only keeping for a couple more years. You may be able to purchase them from a site member for cheap. Some people have extra oem parts from swaps and the like.

My 2 cents
Good luck. I hope the cel stays off.

flying_bubba

Thanks for the advice, that's what I was looking for. I have seen site members that have them for sale. I'll consider that option, but if I decide to go with new, does anyone have a favorite? If I am only buying one, I'd even consider buying the Denso OEM part from RockAuto or Amazon Prime or something else that is from a big name brand in hopes of never having to revisit that coil again.

Anyone else have any advice on this subject?

Thanks in advance,
FB

MarcDavidoff

I have bought the Intermotor ones and have been fine.
I would say buy 2 and keep one in the trunk. I think they do sometimes go in close succession..well at least in my experience. I had 4 go all within a year. Kinda like light bulbs

flying_bubba

Thanks for the advice. The Intermotor is what I was leaning towards. I bought one that I will hold onto in case this issue comes up again. In the meantime I am going to Sea Foam the top side of the engine and the crankcase oil in the next week, about 200 miles before I change the oil change. I will change the plugs after that.

FB

01tl4tl

If you do the better method of seafoam = which is 1 can in just under half a tank- do that 2 times.
It will clean more things and better than the Master Vac port- including the fuel filter sock, all fuel lines, injectors, rail etc.
Does not require any warm up or after-drive, just normal driving.

The vac port method is really for mechanics who need to remove carbon in a hurry-
to speed diagnosis of running problems.
Its easy to screw up and get less effect than you deserve for the money~

Do the gas tank method and have no probs, no concern over plug fouling...
or overloading of product resulting in engine stalling and backfire into your face!

01tl4tl

additional job: remove air filter snorkel tube to TB, clean TB air plate on both sides and edges with carb cleaner.
Wipe up excess and start engine, will run rough for a minute as cleaner runs thru combustion system
Effects idle and airflow when the plate is dirty


on oil use of seafoam at half can to engine oil, make sure to warm oil with 15 minute freeway blast just before draining!
That liquifies crud on bottom of oil pan so it easily drains out

coug66

I had traction control, safe mode, vsa, check engine, D5 flashing.

Coil 5 bad, ordered set of 6 aftermarket coils.

Dealer said needs valve adjustment.

Shows multiple cylinder misfires and 1399 misfire code.

The vsa and the abs are related to bad running engine.

Happy that coils and valve adjustment will fix it.

coug66

coil fixed the car. it drives like brand new. previously installed iridium plugs, daughter erased codes and everything works and there are no warning lights.

cheap coils from amazon fixed it .

6 for around $87 dollars. I have 2ea 2nd gen Acura TL's so I will divide them up.

dealer wanted a little over $200 for coil, install and reset.