I'll have to call back tomorrow to ask if they are offering a warranty with the engine and i'll ask about the donor car as well. I think my tranny is in good shape. It shifts smoothly and the dealership says the warranty work was done back in 2011 or 2012... can't remember for sure but the tranny should be fine.

 

If you can get a 6 spd CLS tranny+ motor and all the goodies, do it. Otherwise that tranny will shit on you again eventually. Tic toc tic toc.... boom

 

Well I'm just gonna hope the tranny holds up fine until i get ready to sell or get a new DD a few years after I graduate.

 

Rear main seal leaks are common, might as well change the $25 part while the motors out to avoid any future leaks.

WTF dude thats pretty crazy on the engine

 

If you can't see the car with the mileage, ask for the vin number and run a carfax on it to verify how many miles they say for the engine

 

Another thing to consider when replacing the motor would be to install a new T-belt kit on the donor.

 

Well It was never confirmed on my car but I'm really aiming towards the oil pump being the culprit... Could it have gave out without warning at all... Could it have been a rare ocassion where it doesn't show all the signs of a faulty pump and just gives out all at once... How else would I not be getting oil pressure if there is oil in the system? That being said should I also replace the oil pump while its out of the vehicle too?

It really sucks I only got 5K out of the engine I was really expecting to take it past 200-300K. I'm with you Yody, this is my first honda/acura vehicle and I just dont understand how a engine with such rock solid reliability randomly blows up at 160K.

 

With the money you saved putting in an engine buy yourself a pepsi and call it a day.

 

What should be in question is the last oil change, was there anything out of the ordinary ? What was the oil used ?


About the rear main seal , If the used engine you get is installed and starts to leak from there basically the trans has to come back off to do the job. If it leaks all of it out you'll end up in the same situation, You don't want more headaches its less than $20 the shop should give you a chance since the transmission is out.

 

I don't think there was anything out of the ordinary... What could I expect from a faulty oil change, water in the oil? Something with the oil pan? Wrong oil? I'm pretty sure the oil used was correct, I can't say for sure because the paperwork is in the glovebox of the car. But I believe it was the recommended 5w-20. I got in changed at one of those $17 quick change shops. And I remember they informed me that the $17 oil change was for 5w-30 it would be $24 for 5w-20 so i paid the extra cash for the right oil... Would a mistake that the shop made take over a month to finally kill my car?

If I get the salvage yard engine then I will definitely replace the seal, If I'm getting the job done it might as well be done right the first time.

 

Well, it would be rare but if the previous owner was using full synthetic since new and you changed to conventional 5-20 with this most recent oil change then that could be the culprit. I've used Royal Purple full synthetic in mine since I got it and that stuff goes in purple and comes out purple. Clean stuff. I won't ever trust a shop to do my oil change again since I've heard so many horror stories. I would look more into what exactly happened with your last oil change.

 

I've had two or three oil changes since owning the car... When i see my car again i'll definitely check out the paperwork. I'm pretty sure The dealership I bought the car from did an oil change sometime before I bought the vehicle. I doubt they used anything but conventional oil... but that's not to say the previous owner didn't use full synthetic. The ford dealership i got it from didn't have any service records from the previous owner so the history of the vehicle's maintenance before I got it is unknown.

 

Unfortunately, it's a guessing game at this point. I must say that these engines are rock solid and I bought my wife's TL with 180K on it and I just crossed 208K with no signs of stress to the motor.

I did receive the maintenace history of the vehicle and I know the previous owner did all maintenance with Acura. As you mentioned, you don't know the previous history of the vehicle and you don't know the condition/issues the vehicle had when it was traded into the dealership.

This is one of those situations were you just got unlucky, but definitely something to learn from. Be sure to really get any and all history of the vehicle, and if you can't there may be something to be cautious of

So, now you can move on and put in something that you know will last! I agree that Option #2 of the engines you listed would be the best bang for the buck, but I also think you should look into the transmission and get a 06-07 Accord V6 at the same time... Why? The transmission is a KNOWN issue. Since you have to change the motor, I would personally change the transmission one time.

You can source an 06-07 AV6 tranny for about $600-$1000 from car-part.com depending on the part grade. Getting this with a new motor would be like buying a new car that WILL last you another 200,000 miles here on out.

 

As much as I would love to go ahead and get the new tranny its just not possible for me right now... I'm thinking about aiming for Option #2. I just spoke with the salvage yard and they have a 1yr parts and labor warranty that would put the price at $588, or a lifetime parts and labor warranty that would put it at $630. As far as the donor car they said it took a shot to the front right, He said the car didn't get plowed and that the damage mostly consisted of fender and bumper damage with very minor frame damage. I'm more than welcome to go out there and take a look at the donor car and the engine which is cleaned, removed from the car and stored indoors out of the elements. He also agreed that doing the timing belt and water pump, and rear main seal while the engine is not in the vehicle would be a good idea.

 

That sounds like one great salvage yard! My TL just had her tranny crap out finally at 270K on the original and finding a tranny or a place I trust is like trying to buy a new car except everyone sucks! I would jump all over that place if they give an optional unlimited mileage warranty. Side note, my TL's motor is rock solid as they come. At my current mileage I just checked the plugs and injectors myself and they look brand new. I'm sure your next motor will last for another century or so.

 

Well it looks like I'm gonna move on this salvage yard engine. And yea they seem like great people, apparently my dad knows the guys there too so that's a plus. If I went with the lifetime warranty it would cover parts and labor for as long as I own the vehicle which is great since a salvage yard engine is a bit of a risk... Also as long as I provide the parts for the timing belt and water pump, rear main seal they will install without changing the original price of labor.

I talked with the dealership and asked about my oil level and they said it is full. it's dirty and looks like its been ran for a few 1000 miles but no significant impurities or anything out of the ordinary in the oil. And he said the car hasn't been burning oil either...

It may also be possible that insurance could cover the damages as well.

 

Save yourself some money and order the Aisin tkh-001 timing belt kit which has all the 5 OEM parts you need for a complete timing belt service. The kit runs under $200.

 

This is the kit I found through Advance Auto and with a 40% off promo code I can get the kit and rear main seal for around $110

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...kit#fragment-3

Has anyone had any experience with the Dayco timing belt/water pump kit or would I be better off with the AISIN kit?

 

 

That sucks on the engine issue. The used engine deal sounds good and as suggested doing the belts is a smart move. However, I would also make sure you use at least an OEM water pump. On My old 99 the previous owner had done the tb/wp 15k miles before I bought it. Another 10k miles later and the water pump started leaking. Aftermarket pump went after 25 k so i had to have the job done again.
Last year my folks 02 RL out of nowhere with 120k started a rod knock.

 

For one thing, your oil pump doesn't create oil pressure, ETCG can explain it to you.
Secondly, you can use a different oil weight and your car will be fine.
Lastly, wehave a sponsor for ruining belt kits, with oem parts, way better deal.

 

People have had problems with aftermarket timing belt parts and water pumps, not just on Acuras, but across all brands. These components are critical and OEM is best. But the choice is ultimately yours. It's also best for you to get an OEM rear seal as it will be to exact specifications.

 

Ok well I will look into the cost of the OEM parts. I saw the AISIN kit that you were talking about as well and I found it on ebay for $189... What sponsor is HairyMonkey019 referring to?

 

The oil pump is a gear type pump mounted on the front of the block and driven off the crankshaft. It is very unlikely to fail.

Low oil pressure is most likely due to worn bearings. Likely something
happened to the engine before you bought it.

 

Yeah, these guys all have some excellent tips at this point.
Do it all....and doing it right will ensure ya that the car will give ya many more years of dependable service. Pick up the lifetime warranty to get ya through college. The few extra bucks will give ya peace of mind for cheap insurance.

Unfortunately, the previous owner(s) obviously neglected the car's PM, so check the rest of the car's basics out and start from fresh. Sorry for your bad luck !!! But, get things into perspective and all will be well.

 

I agree ^^ thanks everyone for all the help and support through this situation, You guys have given me some excellent tips to use now and in the future. I'm definitely going to get the job done right and hopefully she'll be up and running better than ever in a few weeks. I love the car and have slowly been modding it, I plan on keeping it as long as I can but this is the last time I buy a car without a paper trail even if it is from a major Dealership. A Carfax just isn't enough I guess. $189 is the cheapest OEM t-belt kit I've found has anyone else had luck finding it cheaper?

 

I believe this is OEM including the timing kit and water pump for under $200
from Rockauto

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...462&cc=1377008

 

Its a 10 dollar part and a known part to leak on these cars. You have to remove the trans to replace it, since the motor is already out now is the time!

 

That wouldnt make an ounce of difference. You can switch back and forth all you want.

IF it was An oil pump failure on these motors is just a freak failure. Nothing you could have done to prevent it. Sometimes you just have to chalk things up to Shit Happens.

I agree very unlikely. It could have been a plugged oil pickup

 

Despite what caused it, I find it troubling that the oil light didn't come on. Does that only come on if there is no oil pressure? I assumed it came on if the oil was low, or the oil pressure was below normal. Have I been living in a fool's paradise?


Oil pressure isn't necessarily created by the pump itself. (But of course you will lose oil pressure if the oil pump fails) It is created by going through the small holes in the crankshaft. Imagine putting your thumb on a running hose. If you put your thumb on it, you've created a smaller opening and the water comes out at a higher pressure.


Unless someone ran the hell out of that car with the dash cluster unplugged, I doubt the holes would be worn out.

 

The Aisin timing belt kit is the cheapest OEM kit available. But the prices do vary online. I've seen it sell as low as $150. You will need to dig though lots of search results from google if you want to find the best price out there.

 

I would'nt be overly concerned about saving a couple of dollars on the T-belt kit right now. Anything OEM under $200 is a good deal, where it matters is proper installation of all the parts involved.....IMO, it's the labor time that can add up, but now at this unfortunate time, it's an easy job. So, get the key critical parts and you'll be back on the road again soon.

 

Today is January 17, 2014......and apparently you're back to school, but without your beloved TL. Is it being repaired or did you junk it ?

 

Well since I've been at school it's sat at the dealership for the past week since things are now out of my control and in my parents hands... It should be getting towed today and will most likely get prepped for work on Monday. I need to make a list of necessary parts, fluids, etc... to order for the job to get done properly. With that being said here is my list so far.

Oil-5 quarts 5W-20
coolant- amount?
AISIN timing belt kit
Rear Main seal
Any other parts? Motor Mounts?

 

If the car is going in on Monday, ya need to get the critical parts such as the T-belt kit, rear main seal and motor mounts ordered ASAP !!!
Today is now Saturday evening and things don't always get delivered overnight.

In the meantime, the oil, coolant and NGK plugs are easy to get. Talk to your installer for more assistance and details on what he feels would benefit you while replacing the motor. I'm sure that he want's to make you happy with his work and the final results meeting your expectations.

 

Well it took much longer than I expected, but my car is finally done. And I'll be heading home on break in a few days to pick her up and look over the work. My dad says it drives well. I'm pretty excited to get my TL back. I appreciate all the help from the acurazine community throughout the process.

 

Yeah, great news....thought maybe that ya gave up on the TL.
Give us the damage report details and expenses involved....thanks !!!

 

^^^ What he said

 

Nope I hadn't given up. Its done and its running strong. My parents are driving it down tonight to pick me up for midterm break. i don't the exact cost for the job but the engine was $550 lifetime warranty, $650 for labor, $170 for ASIN timing belt/water pump kit, $8 for oem rear main seal, and another $60 or $70 for fluids and spark plugs. So around $1438 total. Still unsure on what exactly caused the engine failure... Now for the bad news. Sometime in the 8-9 weeks I've been without my car the rear bumper was punctured. I haven't seen it yet but I know it wasn't damaged by the police officer pushing me through the intersection the night it happened or when it was towed the night it happened. After that point it was the last time my parents or I saw the car until they picked it up a few days ago. Its been towed two more times since the night it stopped working and its been to two other shops and the dealership. My parents have called all parties and no one is owning up to it. Apparently the second towing company that picked up the car from the dealership didn't grab the key so they towed it on wheel lifts. Also another possibility is that the plow company that plows the lots at tireman or the lots at the dealership could have hit it. We are going to call the dealership tomorrow and ask them to check the cameras if they have them... It seems like its one thing after another. The only thing positive that could come out of this is possibly getting lucky and finding an a-spec rear at a salvage yard.

 

What is this A-spec rear you speak of?