Red Line 5w20 on the way...
#1
Not a Blowhole
Thread Starter
Red Line 5w20 on the way...
I just ordered a case of the 5w20 - I a going to run it i the Fall/Winter, then switch back to the 5w30 in the hot months.
#2
Instructor
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Rage:
Are you caving in on your theories regarding the use of new grades of oil? Or is it because you trust redline so much? You once said you would not use 5W20 because in the past there have been engine problems associated with the introduction of a new grade of oil.
Are you caving in on your theories regarding the use of new grades of oil? Or is it because you trust redline so much? You once said you would not use 5W20 because in the past there have been engine problems associated with the introduction of a new grade of oil.
#3
Not a Blowhole
Thread Starter
OG: Not caving - I will still use the 30 in the summer, the 20 in the winter. Plus Dave Solomon told me that with a G5 20w lube, you get better protection than a mineral oil 30 weight so that ids good enough for me. I am not staunch in my thinking if someone I respect makes a good case.
I would not use a 5w20 mineral oil in my car. That stands.
I would not use a 5w20 mineral oil in my car. That stands.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Road Rage, OldGuy - mind if I intrude and ask a question? what is the difference between the types of engine oils? I mean, there are 5W20, 5W30, 10W50 and etc....what do they represent? thanks in advance.
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#6
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Just changed over to Redline 5W20 this week. My local auto parts shop (Monument, Livermore CA) had to order the case. It came in the same afternoon! Helps to be an hour away from Redline in Benicia. BTW, the case cost me $75 plus sales tax. Is that comparable to elsewhere? I've been keeping good mileage records and saw a small decrease when my Acura dealer put in 5W30--they gave me the "we don't carry it, we've been told it's not necessary, the manual says what?" routine. When I have a couple of tanks thru the engine, I'll report any mileage improvement.
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#8
Senior Moderator
How many quarts came in that $75 case???
Hey RoadRage, why not run the 5w-20 all year long? Are you worried about breakdown in the heat or inadequate protection?
When I switch over I'll prob run it all year long.
Also when you go back to 5w-30 in teh summer I am assuming you meant synthetic as well.
Hey RoadRage, why not run the 5w-20 all year long? Are you worried about breakdown in the heat or inadequate protection?
When I switch over I'll prob run it all year long.
Also when you go back to 5w-30 in teh summer I am assuming you meant synthetic as well.
#9
Purchased: April 28, 2001
Dammit this thread is killing me. I'm an extremely high mileage driver (30k a year) and was planning on using nothing but 5w20 and 5w30 (when 5w20 is unavailable) non synthetic for economical purposes. I change oil like mad (once a month) and I was under the impression that as long as I change oil on a regular basis (every 3,750 miles) non synthetic would do just fine. Am I wrong to assume this? I plan to keep the car for at LEAST 5 years, so seeing the car go 200k would definitely be a possibility. Would going non synthetic for 5 years changing oil on a regular basis get me there?
#10
Guest
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Not to BEAT a Dead horse!!!
Go back and read these....
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=19519
Me Too! My case cost 83.00 + Shipping here.
http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/showth...threadid=19519
Me Too! My case cost 83.00 + Shipping here.
#11
Edgealong,
By changing you're oil once a month and driving 30k a year, you are dumping that mineral based oil every 2500 miles. A switch to a full-Synthetic would net you a substantially longer change interval, besides all the inherant benefits that the full-synthetic oil would provide over the less expensive Dino oil.
By changing you're oil once a month and driving 30k a year, you are dumping that mineral based oil every 2500 miles. A switch to a full-Synthetic would net you a substantially longer change interval, besides all the inherant benefits that the full-synthetic oil would provide over the less expensive Dino oil.
#13
Purchased: April 28, 2001
I would go with Redlines 5w20, but after visiting the site, the recommended lightest weight for street cars is 5w30.
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
#15
Originally posted by edgalang
I would go with Redlines 5w20, but after visiting the site, the recommended lightest weight for street cars is 5w30.
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
I would go with Redlines 5w20, but after visiting the site, the recommended lightest weight for street cars is 5w30.
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
#16
Not a Blowhole
Thread Starter
One post for all the questions - much of this is old ground.
1) Edgalang - your quote from Red Line website refers to their racing 20 wt, which was until recently their only w0 weight. They not have a street formulation with the appropriate chemistry mentioned.
2) Hyde: I may also end up using RL 5w20 all year. I am going to run 5k with 5w20 and do an analysis - I already have a baseline from several 5w30 RL fills for comparison.
3) For the guy who drives alot - if this is highway mileage, you can easily go 5000 on mineral oil. 7500-12000 on a good synthetic
4) For the guy who hadn't planned to use synthetic - you probably do not need to unless you routinely drive the car at high rpms, high loads (towing), or in sustained high temps over 95 degrees.
5) Valvoline is a Group 4 lube, made from polyalphaolefins and some diesters - Red Line is made from polyol esters (essentially a plastic) and has never been a mineral oil (Mobil 1, Valvoline are synthesized from petroleum products (a hexane gas as I recall). Redline is made from corn.
G5's are recognized as the highest grade lubes for engines by the SAE
6) Re the gradings the lower number refers to the oil's viscosity at a standard low temperature - the lower the easier it flows in the winter and at startup). The higher number is measured at 212 degrees and represents the oils equivalent viscosity. Most people think oil thickens at high temps due to VI's, but actually they thin - the VI's just keep them from thinning too much. They are similar to compunds added to fan belts - which actually get thicken a bit at higher temps to avoid slippage.
Engineers refer to the SUS of an oil - its overall viscosity measured in Saybolt Universal Seconds - a really hokey old measurement where a standardized incline isused to see how far the oil flows over a standard unit of time. It would take someone named Saybolt to come up with something that hokey.
1) Edgalang - your quote from Red Line website refers to their racing 20 wt, which was until recently their only w0 weight. They not have a street formulation with the appropriate chemistry mentioned.
2) Hyde: I may also end up using RL 5w20 all year. I am going to run 5k with 5w20 and do an analysis - I already have a baseline from several 5w30 RL fills for comparison.
3) For the guy who drives alot - if this is highway mileage, you can easily go 5000 on mineral oil. 7500-12000 on a good synthetic
4) For the guy who hadn't planned to use synthetic - you probably do not need to unless you routinely drive the car at high rpms, high loads (towing), or in sustained high temps over 95 degrees.
5) Valvoline is a Group 4 lube, made from polyalphaolefins and some diesters - Red Line is made from polyol esters (essentially a plastic) and has never been a mineral oil (Mobil 1, Valvoline are synthesized from petroleum products (a hexane gas as I recall). Redline is made from corn.
G5's are recognized as the highest grade lubes for engines by the SAE
6) Re the gradings the lower number refers to the oil's viscosity at a standard low temperature - the lower the easier it flows in the winter and at startup). The higher number is measured at 212 degrees and represents the oils equivalent viscosity. Most people think oil thickens at high temps due to VI's, but actually they thin - the VI's just keep them from thinning too much. They are similar to compunds added to fan belts - which actually get thicken a bit at higher temps to avoid slippage.
Engineers refer to the SUS of an oil - its overall viscosity measured in Saybolt Universal Seconds - a really hokey old measurement where a standardized incline isused to see how far the oil flows over a standard unit of time. It would take someone named Saybolt to come up with something that hokey.
#17
Is there any way to order the Redline 5W-20 oil online? seems like nobody around here knows what I am talking about...??? I see the redline oils for sale online, but not the 5W-20 for street use...
Stu
Stu
#19
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Originally posted by edgalang
I would go with Redlines 5w20, but after visiting the site, the recommended lightest weight for street cars is 5w30.
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
I would go with Redlines 5w20, but after visiting the site, the recommended lightest weight for street cars is 5w30.
This is directly from the redline webpage about their SAE type oils
To reduce the chance of detonation, our race oils contain very few detergents and are not recommended for street use.
SAE 20 (5W20) - for drag racing, circle track qualifying and race engines designed for low-viscosity oils
#20
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if 5w-20 is not designed for street use...then acura wouldn't put this into our TLs...
the conclusion is...5w-20 is fine...faster warmups and saves fuel!!
hey edgalang...changing oil once a month is reallie wasting your money...
if u drive 30k a year...
that means avg of 2500miles per month...
so that's less than 50% of the oil life...what a waste...and those are not environmental friendly too...
try to do it once in two months or a month and half...that saves big bucks and help the environment
the conclusion is...5w-20 is fine...faster warmups and saves fuel!!
hey edgalang...changing oil once a month is reallie wasting your money...
if u drive 30k a year...
that means avg of 2500miles per month...
so that's less than 50% of the oil life...what a waste...and those are not environmental friendly too...
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try to do it once in two months or a month and half...that saves big bucks and help the environment
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#21
<yawn> this is all so boring...all of you nuts go grab some 5w20 for about $4.50 a qt...those that don't have it go to www.redlineoil.com and look up a place by you to get it. RR, I have to say man...I now get 4 mpg better than before...and my engine seems to feel more responsive and run smoother...I had a friend comment on that without even knowing I had changed over to RL w20 Syn...so well that just tells you...I'm up to 29 mpg with the AC on going 95 constantly on the highway...an 800 mile roadtrip is a great way to test it
and I got there in under 2 tanks of gas!!!
Austin519
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Austin519
#22
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Another point of view it at;
http://www.amsoil.com/products/tso.html
I'm still searching for an independent analysis comparing Reline vrs. Amsoil .
Seems none to be found, anybody ever seen anything please post its site location.
http://www.amsoil.com/products/tso.html
I'm still searching for an independent analysis comparing Reline vrs. Amsoil .
Seems none to be found, anybody ever seen anything please post its site location.
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