Reason why our TLS won't start well

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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 06:03 PM
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Reason why our TLS won't start well

Car having long start or failed to start?
Well, this is what my dealer told me. They said its the Acura key chain that comes as freebie have interference when you start up the car. And anything that hang around our car key might also have electrical interference.
throwing away the acura key chain...
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 06:19 PM
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Thats a pretty lame dealer excuse. Dude, im an electrical engineer and ill tell you that there is no way that the key chain can produce enough (or any) electromagnetical interference that would cause the engine not to start, or have trouble starting. That is the lamest dealer excuse i have heard. I have had this problem when my car was about a month to 2 months old, and now the problem has subsided. It has nothing to do with the keychain!
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 08:36 PM
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I am pretty sure that the key chain only emits any signals when you press one of its buttons. During other times it is pretty much as active as the buckle on your shoe.



I have noticed that my TL-S starts with more hesitation is it is parked on an incline with the nose down.

I also happenned to notice that it idles funny when it is on an incline with its nose down (for example when exiting a plaza, wating for other cars to get by)
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 08:43 PM
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This has got to be my most favorite topic on this board.

I bet the next guy that asks about this issue at the dealership will be told that they reason why the car hesitates at time during startup is because the sun and the moon are not in correct alignment, and that this is a known problem affecting the chip embedded in the key
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 08:47 PM
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Red face Pick, picky Picky!

All I have to say is this. Want something to complain about? American Cars! Case closed!
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 08:49 PM
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Originally posted by Ruski
I am pretty sure that the key chain only emits any signals when you press one of its buttons. During other times it is pretty much as active as the buckle on your shoe.
he's talking about the chrome keychain we get..not our remote!

anyway..Stanman has that on his keychain..as well as valet..and his starts up fine. I had mine for a week.then took it off....doesn't make a difference. I still have that horrible start sometimes. i'll ask my dealer when i take it in for service and see what he says :p
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 09:37 PM
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I agree w/ nameeri & elegant, I have my keychain(still do) & my car starts fine, when it doesn't its usually operator error(not enuff time in a day )
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 09:40 PM
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I don't have a keychain (just the fob), and I get a sluggish start sometimes.
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Old Mar 12, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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Originally posted by nameeri
Thats a pretty lame dealer excuse. Dude, im an electrical engineer and ill tell you that there is no way that the key chain can produce enough (or any) electromagnetical interference that would cause the engine not to start, or have trouble starting. That is the lamest dealer excuse i have heard. I have had this problem when my car was about a month to 2 months old, and now the problem has subsided. It has nothing to do with the keychain!
Actually there's two common reasons why the car will start hard.

1) Interference from the key chain. Really. Yes, this is a documented problem (albeit a rare one). When you start the car, the Theft Immobilizer system checks to make sure the key in the ignition has the correct computer chip in it before allowing the car to start. Even in the manual it states that if you have more than one key on the key ring that has another chip on it (from another car--say your significant other's that has an immobilizer chip as well or if you have your valet key *and* your regular ignition key on the same ring), it can confuse the immobilizer system and won't let the car start. Mobil Speedpass keychain units will also cause this phenomenon and Acura states if you have a *lot* of keys on the chain, the resulting mass of metal can also affect the reading of the chip. *HOWEVER*, there is an easy way to tell if this is the problem you are having. When you go to start the car, if it won't start or cranks but won't catch, look at the gauges. If you see the green Theft Immobilizer key icon blinking then the car can't see the chip and this is the problem. If you don't see the key icon blinking then this is *not* your problem.

2) High compression engines (like the TL-S--10.5 to 1) usually take longer to catch than lower compression engines. I've never had my car fail to start, but it *does* take longer than my '97 Maxima SE to catch. There is also a TSB for a problem with warm restarts taking longer than normal. I don't know if they've found a solution for it yet, but it is a documented problem.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 01:36 AM
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I'm an "EE" also, although I don't know what technology is actually used with the so-called key "chip"?

If the key somehow emits a tiny RF signal, then, yes, a significant piece of metal in the right place could shield and block the signal.

If there is some kind of resonant "tank" circuit employed in which the key "chip" tunes the circuit, then again, signficant metal in the wrong place could detune the circuit.

In any case the manual does say NOT to use the Acura emblem given in the leather case book on your key ring... kind of bogus to give out a decorative show-off emblem, and then say to only use it on your 1970 dodge or equivalent

I have not experienced any starting problems yet, and I hang one extra key on the ring with the "chip" key and the remote. Like stated above, check and see if the green key lamp is blinking while you are having the hard start...

Good luck!
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 01:46 AM
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If your keychain or other keys are causing interference with the immobilizer chip, you will see the key light blinking on the instrument cluster. This has happened to me once last summer, when I went to start and the engine would just crank but not start. I noticed the key light blinking, so I just took the key out, reinserted, and it started up fine.

It seems to be pretty normal with out cars to take 3 to 5 cranks before it starts. I used to think that they may be something wrong, as my old Accord used to start within the first 2 cranks. Again, it is probably due to the high compression ratio.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 07:00 AM
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incline

I think it does have something to do with being parked on an incline (nose down) because I most often have this problem at work where I back in with the nose slightly down.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 10:05 AM
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I didnt even know that the acura key had an imobilizer chip in it. Damn, better take more care of that key!! Then if thats the case, I can see how a bunch of keys, or metal might cause the engine not to start correctly. However, if this were not the case, and the key was just a regular key, then there is no way that it would be possible.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 12:05 PM
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Originally posted by nameeri
I didnt even know that the acura key had an imobilizer chip in it. Damn, better take more care of that key!! Then if thats the case, I can see how a bunch of keys, or metal might cause the engine not to start correctly. However, if this were not the case, and the key was just a regular key, then there is no way that it would be possible.

HAHA! damn Naqeeb! You didn't even know our cars have the chip?! whatcha think that green flashing key light is? :p :flamer:
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 12:52 PM
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Originally posted by pianoman41


2) High compression engines (like the TL-S--10.5 to 1) usually take longer to catch than lower compression engines. I've never had my car fail to start, but it *does* take longer than my '97 Maxima SE to catch. There is also a TSB for a problem with warm restarts taking longer than normal. I don't know if they've found a solution for it yet, but it is a documented problem.
acctually if i remeber RR in one of his monthlys ,,,did report on a motor mount problem which may result in slow starts ,also there was some reference to heat soak...my impressiion was,,,after the car had been run for a while...to restart could be slow...cant remeber if the two are related...think motor mount...
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 02:57 PM
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Wow!
I was just about to post a new topic saying "my car won't start"
So, it's rather a "commom" problem? I guess...
It had happened a few times. But a week ago, my car just "gave up" on me. I had to crank it like 7 or 8 times. And yes, I did crank and hold it for a long time...say about 5 seconds.
At first I thought it was the battery...but all the others were working fine:lights, cd, navi...
And when it finally started, the rpm needle pointed way under 1(x1000) ...i think it usually stays on 3/4 ~1/1 but at that time I believe it was down to 1/2...as if you're riding an old car with leaking battery with dying alternator...

I'm gonna do a self-test(just one key with no othe keys and chains) when it happens again and see what happens.

Thx all for sharing your knowledge.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 06:30 PM
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Originally posted by ElegantTL-S
HAHA! damn Naqeeb! You didn't even know our cars have the chip?! whatcha think that green flashing key light is?
Thats the thing, i was always wondering what the heck that green key light was. Dude, no one ever told me what the heck it was before abd i never read it in the owners manual. Oh well, i know now, AND KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE!!
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 08:24 PM
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i also experience this... it sux
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 09:41 PM
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Ummm...I just experienced this tonight...I parked my car across the Street from Aruthur's steakhouse along with Alfav6, and TypeSDragon and I wanted to back my car up alittle bit more so Alfa can have some more space for his car...then I went in my car and tried to start it up...the car was like...arrrrr arrr arrrr arrrr..didn't start up at all..then I took the car out and restarted it..again arrr arrrr arrr arrr...I was like wtf?? and then they were all outside laughing their asses off...I was getting worried...really worried...then I took my key out of the ignition and put it back in then tried to restart it again...it went arrr arrr arrr vrrommm!

Dag that was very scary and it happened just tonight...Damn Acura! I didn't have that problem when I was about to leave started right up. I don' t know what to think now...that was freaky and scary...
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 09:53 PM
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Re: Pick, picky Picky!

Originally posted by billyvader
All I have to say is this. Want something to complain about? American Cars! Case closed!
That's funny. My 2000 Tahoe LT was rock solid for 30000 trouble free miles over a year and a half. Not one squeak, rattle or anything else was ever wrong with it (only reason is sold it was because the wife got tired of driving such a big vehicle all the time). We bought it for the size and cargo room rather than getting a minivan and I must admit I was very surprised by how solid that car was. I'm sure the same can't be said for all American cars, but that one was perfect and I hated to part with it.

My TLS, that's a different story. 2 new trannies, a water leak, warped rotors, squeaks and rattles out the wazoo -- and that was all in the first 26000 miles. On the bright side, it's been completely trouble free (other than the squeaks and rattles) for 11000 miles now. Probably the longest stretch without a major problem since I've owed the car. I'll give this 3rd tranny another couple of months and I'm sure it'll go.

But I still love driving my car.
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Old Mar 13, 2002 | 09:58 PM
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Re: incline

Originally posted by jeremyelkins
I think it does have something to do with being parked on an incline (nose down) because I most often have this problem at work where I back in with the nose slightly down.
You may be right. I used to have that problem with my 98 V6 Accord. If parked on a decline (nose pointed down) with less than 1/4 of a tank of gas, it was very slow to start. Haven't experienced it yet with the TLS.
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