So, just recently my passenger side rear wheel bearing started getting noisy. tonight I decided to replace it, should take 30 minutes to do, and it did but ran into a problem. Well I pulled the bad wheel bearing/hub assembly out just to find out that not only was it bad but it had a catastrophic failure. There is a part of the wheel bearing/hub assembly that has become seized to the spindle and the "back plate", not sure if back plate is the right word, but I hope you get what I mean.

Now how in the heck would I get this part of the the wheel bearing/hub assembly of the spindle???

Any ideas????

 

Thats usually the way bearings come off. I usually heat it until its red hot, then pry it off the spindle. If that doesnt work I cut it off, carefully.

 

How would you cut it??? Cut down between the back pate and the part???

 

Are you talking the outer race of the bearing is seized to the spindle? I know another member had that problem and had to cut the race with a dremel to get it off.

 

yeah pictures would do wounders for showing what you mean

 

Kris is right it is the outer race of the bearing that is seized to the spindle. Where would I cut it though, where the outer race is up against the back plate/dust plate

 

still take a pic, then i can put a line to where it needs to be cut

also an oxy-acetoline torch works best for the cutting (but have to be very careful though), but a dremal can work too

 

You would cut across the piece of bearing to make it into a C so that you can pry it apart some to slide it off.

 

http://img37.imageshack.us/i/dsc00562h.jpg/

http://img198.imageshack.us/i/dsc00563ac.jpg/

 

 

only has to be cut on one line (hopefulley, but if still having troable, you might have to cut it 180 degrees opposite of first) you also gotta get that spacer off too

anyways make sure to not go too deep, or you will start getting the spindle itself, then after it's cut you hit a chisel punch into the cut (has to be big enough to actually seperate it and not bottom out on the spindle (might take a couple of hits or additional cutting)(you will see it start to rotate and such, but also normally you can here it pop free from the spindle)

but that chisel should help break the race and spacer free from the spindle, also help relieve some of the tension on it too
then hopefully it will slid right off, but good chance it won't, so then you have to pry it off


also if going the dremal route, make sure to have plenty of blades on hand, the race is hardend steel with the spacer possible being also
and the spacer will not be a problem cutting, but the race you might have a problem cause of that very inner courner (trying to cut a square courner with a round disk , with minamising spindle cutting)

 

ok thanks...will try in the morning.

 

do exactly what friesm2000 said. That should be all you need to do.

 

also when all said and done with them being removed, take some emery cloth (a file might be neccesary for the bigger burrs) and clean the spindle up of the burrs you might have caused when cutting, but also to help clean off some of the rust on the spindle (doesn't have to be perfect, but the majority of it needs to be cleaned off)
then after that put a nice smear of antisieze on the spindle to help prevent the new bearing from siezing to the spindle again, so it is easier next time, if you happen to damage the bearing again

 

also remove that shield/backing plate too, to give you more room to work

 

my brother came over as he was going to give me a hand with it, but he had a better idea and within 2 minutes he had the outer race popped. All we needed was a 2 pound sledge, various sized cold chisels, a good soaking of PB Blaster since 10pm last night. We stuck the smallest chisel between the race and the dust shield, wacked it one and the race popped, still not completely loose though. So next size chisel and then one more size bigger and it was completely loose and came right off. No damage to the spindle whatsoever, never even touched the spindle. I took an emory board and got off a spot where it looked like it spot welded itself to the spindle and we were good to go. The PB Blaster was the key here as it defintely seemed to loosen up a lot of the rust and even came rushing out when we pulled the race off as it had traveled down the spindle, and looked like it was eating at the spot weld a little.

I'll make sure to keep this one in the memory bank for the next time this comes up.

Thanks for all your help guys!!!!!

 

at least you got it off easily , try trying what you did with a pressed on bearing (luckily ours are just supposed to be held on with that nut on the end, and not pressed on)

and it does sound like you did clean the spindle up some, so , just make sure to give it a smear of antisieze before reassembly, to help prevent it from ever sticking again (hopefully you will never have too, but better to plan ahead)

 

I did mines in december in 08, man when i popped it out, i felt like a jar of marbles broke ol

 

what kind of noises did you start hearing?

 

Awesome.

 

[quote=friesm2000;11654591]at least you got it off easily , try trying what you did with a pressed on bearing (luckily ours are just supposed to be held on with that nut on the end, and not pressed on)
[quote]


bearings are designed as a slight press fit at best otherwise the race is compressed too much and the bearing fails before it is suppose to. It only requires a light force with driver to install or remove.

Some will use a retaining compound and those are tough to remove.

 

[quote=rcb2000;11692821][quote=friesm2000;11654591]at least you got it off easily , try trying what you did with a pressed on bearing (luckily ours are just supposed to be held on with that nut on the end, and not pressed on)
lmfao, try a 01 lexus rx300 front wheel bearings, those f***ers are in the knuckle super tight, a 20-ton press could not push them out, and yes all clips and such were out, with virtually no rust (think more a Arizonia car's rust, not the NE's rust)