Rear Caliper DIY
#41
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
And to add to this i would use Legend 2piston calipers as they are cheaper
so with the Legend calipers is it left side on left side and right side on right side or swap them around just like the NSX... do you also just use the TL brake pads or you buy Legend brake pads...
#42
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
tl brake pads. Left caliper on right side, right side caliper on left
#44
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Front Calipers that should work:
93-95 Legend LS Coupe (40mm and 38mm)
94-95 Legend GS Sedan
91-96 NSX (40mm and 36mm)
97+ NSX (not sure)
93-95 Legend LS Coupe (40mm and 38mm)
94-95 Legend GS Sedan
91-96 NSX (40mm and 36mm)
97+ NSX (not sure)
#46
Looks like I'm too late...
Hi All :
Last year, a non-dealer mechanic told me that I needed to change the rear calipers as one was "siezed" and would cause the pad to drag in the disc and wear out quickly. Being the inquistive type, I called the dealer and asked about calipers and how often are they changed ? They replied that the only time they needed to replace a caliper was when they had been physically damaged.
I called the repair guy back and told him this and he said he might be able to "unsieze" the caliper, but no warranty. OK says I and off I went. After about a year and 2K miles, guess what ? The disc started to show some scoring, which makes me feel like a complete idiot.
So with a new set of pads in hand, I jack up the back of the car and take apart the brakes to see for myself. I take it all apart and had to pry the pads out of the caliper. When I tried to get put the new pads back in, they just wouldn't fit. You have no idea how long I tied to put the pad in with the stainless steel raceways ! There is simply not enough clearance to get all the pieces in and allow the pads to move freely. How can this be given that this is a cast piece and must be designed to allow free movement ?
So I decided to take a file and remove the coating of rust from the top and bottom of the casting where the pads seat and guess what ? After removing the rust down to shiny metal, the pieces all fit perfectly with lots of movement !!
Who could have guessed that simple rust would be thick enough to cause the pads to bind ? So much for the "siezed" caliper problem !
So before you go changing calipers, try this trick out.
Echotango.
Last year, a non-dealer mechanic told me that I needed to change the rear calipers as one was "siezed" and would cause the pad to drag in the disc and wear out quickly. Being the inquistive type, I called the dealer and asked about calipers and how often are they changed ? They replied that the only time they needed to replace a caliper was when they had been physically damaged.
I called the repair guy back and told him this and he said he might be able to "unsieze" the caliper, but no warranty. OK says I and off I went. After about a year and 2K miles, guess what ? The disc started to show some scoring, which makes me feel like a complete idiot.
So with a new set of pads in hand, I jack up the back of the car and take apart the brakes to see for myself. I take it all apart and had to pry the pads out of the caliper. When I tried to get put the new pads back in, they just wouldn't fit. You have no idea how long I tied to put the pad in with the stainless steel raceways ! There is simply not enough clearance to get all the pieces in and allow the pads to move freely. How can this be given that this is a cast piece and must be designed to allow free movement ?
So I decided to take a file and remove the coating of rust from the top and bottom of the casting where the pads seat and guess what ? After removing the rust down to shiny metal, the pieces all fit perfectly with lots of movement !!
Who could have guessed that simple rust would be thick enough to cause the pads to bind ? So much for the "siezed" caliper problem !
So before you go changing calipers, try this trick out.
Echotango.
#47
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by smartypants
Hi All :
Last year, a non-dealer mechanic told me that I needed to change the rear calipers as one was "siezed" and would cause the pad to drag in the disc and wear out quickly. Being the inquistive type, I called the dealer and asked about calipers and how often are they changed ? They replied that the only time they needed to replace a caliper was when they had been physically damaged.
I called the repair guy back and told him this and he said he might be able to "unsieze" the caliper, but no warranty. OK says I and off I went. After about a year and 2K miles, guess what ? The disc started to show some scoring, which makes me feel like a complete idiot.
So with a new set of pads in hand, I jack up the back of the car and take apart the brakes to see for myself. I take it all apart and had to pry the pads out of the caliper. When I tried to get put the new pads back in, they just wouldn't fit. You have no idea how long I tied to put the pad in with the stainless steel raceways ! There is simply not enough clearance to get all the pieces in and allow the pads to move freely. How can this be given that this is a cast piece and must be designed to allow free movement ?
So I decided to take a file and remove the coating of rust from the top and bottom of the casting where the pads seat and guess what ? After removing the rust down to shiny metal, the pieces all fit perfectly with lots of movement !!
Who could have guessed that simple rust would be thick enough to cause the pads to bind ? So much for the "siezed" caliper problem !
So before you go changing calipers, try this trick out.
Echotango.
Last year, a non-dealer mechanic told me that I needed to change the rear calipers as one was "siezed" and would cause the pad to drag in the disc and wear out quickly. Being the inquistive type, I called the dealer and asked about calipers and how often are they changed ? They replied that the only time they needed to replace a caliper was when they had been physically damaged.
I called the repair guy back and told him this and he said he might be able to "unsieze" the caliper, but no warranty. OK says I and off I went. After about a year and 2K miles, guess what ? The disc started to show some scoring, which makes me feel like a complete idiot.
So with a new set of pads in hand, I jack up the back of the car and take apart the brakes to see for myself. I take it all apart and had to pry the pads out of the caliper. When I tried to get put the new pads back in, they just wouldn't fit. You have no idea how long I tied to put the pad in with the stainless steel raceways ! There is simply not enough clearance to get all the pieces in and allow the pads to move freely. How can this be given that this is a cast piece and must be designed to allow free movement ?
So I decided to take a file and remove the coating of rust from the top and bottom of the casting where the pads seat and guess what ? After removing the rust down to shiny metal, the pieces all fit perfectly with lots of movement !!
Who could have guessed that simple rust would be thick enough to cause the pads to bind ? So much for the "siezed" caliper problem !
So before you go changing calipers, try this trick out.
Echotango.
Good tip though
#48
Prick of the month
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Front Calipers that should work:
93-95 Legend LS Coupe (40mm and 38mm)
94-95 Legend GS Sedan
91-96 NSX (40mm and 36mm)
97+ NSX (not sure)
93-95 Legend LS Coupe (40mm and 38mm)
94-95 Legend GS Sedan
91-96 NSX (40mm and 36mm)
97+ NSX (not sure)
#49
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
There is NO reason to get the rears. they are all the same single piston. Whats different with the fronts are the dual piston over our single piston
#52
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by c0v3rr1d3
i have been wondering, since the legend calipers and nsx calipers bolt up, will big brake kits for either car bolt up to our tl's also?
#53
Smarty Pants- good tip
Those little ends where the tabs from the pad fit in the bracket must be clean and lubed with caliper grease, there is supposed to be a metal piece with spring tabs that fits in there so the pads are held in suspension between the 2 points, were yours missing?
Also spray clean the rubber boot with gentle cleaner and wipe off any grit and grime before pushing the piston in-- if that gets pushed into the cylinder wall and piston's rubber o-ring seal---say goodbye caliper when that happens
Always a good idea to flush the brake fluid FIRST- before working on brakes- to avoid backwash- baaaaadddddddd
Those little ends where the tabs from the pad fit in the bracket must be clean and lubed with caliper grease, there is supposed to be a metal piece with spring tabs that fits in there so the pads are held in suspension between the 2 points, were yours missing?
Also spray clean the rubber boot with gentle cleaner and wipe off any grit and grime before pushing the piston in-- if that gets pushed into the cylinder wall and piston's rubber o-ring seal---say goodbye caliper when that happens
Always a good idea to flush the brake fluid FIRST- before working on brakes- to avoid backwash- baaaaadddddddd
#54
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
But i am kinda looking for a color photo DIY for the brake calipers though
#55
So I'm a moron...
Originally Posted by yosarian
I just replaced my rear pads and am about to replace all four rotors, calipers and pads on my TL in a few days. When I did the pad job, I took a ton of pictures bc I am planning on doing a DIY. I'll bang it out in the next day or so and send you the link so you can see what needs to be done.
I wish I had known about the NSX calipers fitting the TL before I got my refurbed Akebonos.
I'm still doing a DIY tho.
#56
check the DIY section- there is a thread but it needs improvement
fsttyms was being funny~ but no one got the joke!
Just ordered my Legend front calipers
fsttyms was being funny~ but no one got the joke!
Just ordered my Legend front calipers
#57
Senior Moderator
Thread Starter
me just being bored and wanting to start a thread to see how many would jump to help.
#59
With the right tools and skills, and assuming no corrossion, and if you can use the tools correctly- sure its cake
And for this job I went ahead and let someone who is a specialist do it
At a certain point you have to figure what is your time worth to do a rebuild- versus just buying it already done
SpeedTV doesnt show all the times they did it wrong in the process!
A little wrong angle in the honing and kiss that seal goodbye
And for this job I went ahead and let someone who is a specialist do it
At a certain point you have to figure what is your time worth to do a rebuild- versus just buying it already done
SpeedTV doesnt show all the times they did it wrong in the process!
A little wrong angle in the honing and kiss that seal goodbye
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