If you go outside turn on your car and leave it in park. Then press the gas, at what RPM is it suppose to bounce off the rev limiter??? Can some of you try it??? Mine is bouncing off at 5k RPM's when in park, and at 6k when in neutral.

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

I would help, but I can't see doing that to the car for no reason.

 

Yeah...Does it really matter????
Why do you have to waste the expensive gas..
What do you have to find out????

 

I wanted to see if my NOS was causing a problem.

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

First, your NOS should not be on when it is not in drive and not at WOT. Second, doing that to your car or to anyone's car is bad. If your NOS isn't on, it should not affect the rev-limiter. What kind of NOS system do you have? I also hope your installer put an on/off switch for you.

Let me know what your problem is, since I have installed my own NOS system in my old car and maybe I can help you solve your problem.

------------------
Honda-Acura.net TL Forum Moderator.

1999 Silver with factory body kit, spoiler and burlwood instrument cluster and shift knob. Joshua Tree Wood dash kit. Hella air horns. Tint all around. Razo competition pedals. MOMO Sport 18"X7.5" with 225/40ZR Pirelli P7000SS. Weapon-R intake. Comptech springs, exhaust and headers. Inspire Tailights, homemade ram-air and Polarg M-12 front turn signals. Comptech front and rear sway bar. Axxis Metal Master front and rear pads. Mugen front grille. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.

My AcuraTL Homepage

NEW: '01 Acura MDX Silver Premium

Front 35% tinted windows. Running boards. Roof rack. Tailgate deflector. Moonroof visor. Rear mud guards. Razo premium white headlight bulbs. Matriz ion yellow fog light bulbs(courtesy of Snook). More to come later......

Acura-MDX.com Forum Moderator

 

mine does the same thing. I think that's just the way it is.

------------------
silver 99 TL
Drop zone coil-overs
AEM short ram

 

That's normal. I won't go more than 5k rpm when not in drive.

------------------

 

The reason I was asking was that today I sprayed my NOS for like 6 seconds. 5-10 mins. later my engine shuts off. The rest of the day my engine feels like it lost a LOAD of torque. My car wouldn't peel out from a stand still with or without NOS. I mean it used to be able to peel out without NOS and with it, it would peel out forever. So I took my car to the shop that installed my NOS and they confirmed my belief that it could be my spark plugs causing the problem. I was running Bosch platinum+4's. DO NOT use platinum sparks. I've now switched to regular copper spark plugs and my hesitation prob. has ceased to reoccur. What happens is that Platinum cannot handle the extra heat caused by NOS, and this causes the electrode to melt, or so I've heard. I've heard too many horror stories of Bosch+4 plugs with NOS.

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-BOSCH platinum+4 plugs
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

I didn't know you were using Platinum plugs... You are correct, never use platinum plugs when you are using NOS. It is not that they could not handle the extra heat, it is jut they cannot provide enough spark when the cylinder has alot o pressure (during NOS). Platinum plugs are easier to provide an arc, but the arc is greater with copper/iridium plugs.

Since you had them switch your plugs, what do your plugs look like? You can tell alot on your engine's condition by reading the plugs.

When I used to squeeze, I would change my plugs every 6 months and change my oil every 3000 miles. Good thing for our TLs is that when it detects detonation, it will retard timing on its own and that's probably what you were experiencing. When the it retards timing, it will decrease power alot.

One more thing, since you are using a 50 shot wet system, I hope you are using one heat range below stock.

 

Ok, this morning I think I'm still having the same torque loss problem or hesitation from a start. Anyone have any ideas on what this could be???

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

Yeah, I'd never rev my car that high without a load on it, it's much better to have a load on the engine....

 

Shoulda told me about the plugs, we coulda checked them at my house. I told you to get coppers first but no one listens to matt........

BTW: His car reallllyyyy has a downage in power below 3-4k rpms.


Hopefully you didnt destroy a piston o-ring. (Only thing I can think of off the top of my head besides the spark plugs which would cause this)

------------------

 

Well, if you could tell me how your platinum plugs look when your installer swapped them out, I might know what's wrong. If possible, take a picture of the plugs and let me see them.

 

I swapped out my plugs myself. I put in copper plugs yesterday, I can't find the heatrange though. The platinum's that I took off, the electrodes looked blackish. The ceramic around the electrode looked a little "burnt" too. The ceramic also had a bunch of real tiny black specks on it. I took the car to Hondatech today(they installed my NOS) and they told me my bottle was empty. The guy went for a road test with me and the car felt normal again. WTF? If it were a shot piston ring, wouldnt the cehck engine light come on?

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by [VTEC]TL on June 05, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

Did you make sure and torque the plugs down properly to the correct setting? That's strange. Now the question is, did he refill the bottle and then use the NOS and it begin to feel like stock, or did it feel like the NOS was making a difference over the stock?

 

If your plugs are black, you might be running alittle rich. It is supposed to have a brownish look to it.

If it is fine now, that's good. If something internally is wrong, you will know, it won't just go away. However, just to be on the save side, have your mechanice to a leak-down test, that will tell you alot about the compression on each of the cylinder.

 

What's a leak down test. And how much do these usually run. The car seems like it is running fine now. One thing though, when I floored the NOS on the highway last weekend and let go of the gas, it felt as if the throttle was sticking open till like a second after I released the gas? This is prob. just due to the pressurization by the N20 flow correct?

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

Leakdown test is they will test each cylinder by sticking a measuring device through the spark plug hole and crank the engine to see if your cylinder had lost any compression to it. They will do each cylinder separatly. It shouldn't take them more than an hour's time to do it.

Sticking throttle is bad. First, answer me this. How is your NOS setup? By a switch only or did your installer put in a throttle switch, meaning that NOS will only run when it is at WOT.

When you let go of the gas, your NOS should not be running. And no, the pressure from NOS will not keep your throttle from closing.

 

1) Check the heat range of the plugs.

Fix it if it this is not the right range for the NOS.

2) If it wasnt the plugs then you'll need to do, as AcuraTL says and get a compression test. If you need new o-rings, your screwed.

------------------



<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by matt7184 on June 05, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

hey Allan want me to take pic with ur plugs..
Write back..... scine i bring my Dg to school every day

------------------
2000 3.2TL Firepepper red w/o nav
stock spoiler
Comptech springs
Custom front Grill
Bosch 4+ platinum spark plug
25% Tint/Mud guards/
acura-tl.com sticker at front windshield

 

Yeah, I have a TPS switch. If it was a piston ring Matt, then my check engine light should have been on by know

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

No, not necessary, a burnt piston ring would not trigger then engine light to come on.

If you are still having problems, you should not use your NOS for a while to see if it goes away. If it does not, then definitely get a leak down test done and see if you have lost any compression in your cylinders.

 

First, ask your installer what kind of plugs he/she had put in. If it is a heat range lower, then you will lose some power in the low-end.

Explain more in detail what kind of problems you are having.

 

Same thing happens here...

 

Exactly. The Engine Light might not come on if you are loosing compression.

------------------

 

Also, are you positive it was a wet system? Does it hook up to the fuel system at all?

 

Yes it does connect to the fuel system.

BTW, What are some warning signs that point to lost compression? My engine idles fine, shifts smoothly etc.

Also, Is it ok for me to leave my NOS bottle valve open for long periods of time? Would this cause any problems???


------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

You'll loose power with a lower compression. It probably isnt low enough to cause normal driving problems or idle problems in your case. It might be a slite leak.

As long as the WOT switch works leaving the bottle on shouldnt be a problem.



------------------

 

If you have a burnt ring, you will burn up your oil but it really depends how bad it is.

Get the leak down test done and you'll know if your cylinders are losing compression or not in about an hour or so.

Try not to use your NOS for now until you find out what the problem is. Squeezing while you have burnt rings is a bad combo.

The only thing I am afraid happened to your engine is detonation. It was probably caused by the platinum plugs not able to fire under extreme high pressure in the cylinders when you were squeezing.

Have you buddy take some pictures of all the plugs and post them here and let me check them out.

 

So Allan want to use my dg??scine i will c u tomorrow,if so bring all ur plugs and let me take some pics...

 

OK I'll bring the plugs tommorow.

Also, how much does it usually cost to have a compression test done? Can I just buy a compression guage and do the test myself? How hard is it to do?

U also said that with a burnt ring I'll burn up my engine oil correct. Is there any way I can examine the oil to see if it is being "burnt?"

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by [VTEC]TL on June 07, 2001 @ ]</font>

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by [VTEC]TL on June 07, 2001 @ ]</font>

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by [VTEC]TL on June 07, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

Yikes... makes me glad I don't have NOS. Hope you get her fixed!

 

Leakdown test will take your mechanic about an hour or two, so it really depends on how much per hour he/she charges.

It it is a severe burnt rings, you engine oil will be low really fast but if it is a minor one, you probably won't notice it. The oil will still look the same, unless you have a cracked cylinder head and we don't want to get into that because that's $$$$$ to fix.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1" FACE="Verdana, Arial">[This message has been edited by AcuraTL on June 07, 2001 @ ]</font>

 

I'm not even sure if anything is wrong. It could just all be in my head. I'm pretty paranoid!

------------------
Y2K SaTiN SiLvEr BoTTleFeD 3.2TL
-AEM Short Ram intake w/heat shield
-AEM Tru-power pulleys
-NOS 50 shot wet Nitrous System
-Magnaflow exhaust
-Ground Control coil overs
-BLITZ 1.3 kg radiator cap
-Factory underbody kit and Wing
-Mesh grill
-Body color door handles
-20%/35% Llumar Platinum tint
-Räzo Shifter
-2 Rockford 10" XLC subs/Boss Audio CLR60 amp

 

Why don't you just drive it around without NOS for a couple of weeks. If nothing goes wrong or if you do not notice anything wrong, then you don't have to worry about anything.

 

You think he would be able to do that? j/k... The rev-limiter is indeed lower when at idle... it's bad to do that at idle anyways, like a a few of the guys mentioned..
Ed

------------------
Acura-TL.com - Forum Moderator
'66 Mustang Fastback
'99 Mazda Miata
'99 Acura TL Satin Silver/Ebony, Non/Nav, Comptech Springs and Sways, CL Type S wheels wrapped with 225/45/17 Dunlop SP9000's, Comptech Air Filter Element, Inspire Tails, AEM Brake Pads all around, Comptech Axle Back Exhaust, Gutter Guard Grille, "Guy Smiley" doll on the dash as my Co-driver...

Pics of my TL
Pics of my Miata! Wadya think?

 

Yep thats pretty much the case Thanks to VTEC, we were able to definately see that he was not down in power at all, if any. We essentially had a 2TL mini drag race at this spot we found.

[VTEC]TL forgot to mention he has new tires, with only ~500 miles on them. VTEC was able to peel out a bit more, but he has year old stock tires I believe.

Hopefully VTEC will be able to post the films yours truly took while he wasnt driving.



------------------