Radiatior Fan Problem!
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Dallas, Tx
Age: 36
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Radiatior Fan Problem!
Sometimes when I pull the key out of the car, one of the radiator fans, the right one, keeps on going. I've asked around and realized that this was NOT normal. I believe it's the a/c. My diagnosis came about when I would "fix" the problem by turning ignition to the 2nd notch and turn off the a/c, then take the key out. I would maybe have to do this once or twice before the radiator fan shuts off. The a/c is always on before I pull the key out when this radiator fan problem occurs. So maybe I should try turning off the a/c before the key gets taken out and see if that gets rid of the problem? Suggestions, opinions, ideas?!
#2
yes- turn off the ac before shutting off the engine
But your problem may be a temp sensor going bad
Are you sure its the passenger side fan doing this? or the driver side-
driver side is the main cooling fan and can run a few minutes after shutdown, but not like 15 minutes or longer~
But your problem may be a temp sensor going bad
Are you sure its the passenger side fan doing this? or the driver side-
driver side is the main cooling fan and can run a few minutes after shutdown, but not like 15 minutes or longer~
#3
I have dead hookers in
mine did this same thing a few weeks ago and i was low on coolant for some reason. flushed the radiator(not mandatory) and filled it up good and it fixed the problem
#4
Its actually normal for Hondas and acuras to have there fans run after the vehicle is shut off. Its caused by temperatures in the cooling system rising due to heat soak. With the car not running and the coolant not flowing or being cooled it gets hotter and hotter.
As long as it cycles on and off you're good. If your fans stays on constantly and is draining power from your battery than you've got your self a problem. Otherwise you're in the clear
As long as it cycles on and off you're good. If your fans stays on constantly and is draining power from your battery than you've got your self a problem. Otherwise you're in the clear
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#5
No He Can't
iTrader: (2)
Mine was doing this the other day as well but I am also having some problems with the temp gauge. When we were doing the 6 speed swap we noticed the gauge wasn't working and the wires had gotten melted somehow. My gauge will go on and off and sometimes will even move like a vacuum/boost gauge on a turbo car. It will be all the way at the bottom and when I start going it will go up to where it is supposed to go and when I shift it jumps down then back up just like when you shift in a turbo car. I guess my car's just telling me to throw w turbo on it.
#6
the driver side fan may run a few minutes- it does not cycle on and off once engine shut off
If the radiator is low- check the overflow bottle- is the rubber hose inside the cap- that sticks down into the bottle - is not there?- likes to fall off and into the bottle- then it wont transfer coolant from the radiator to bottle and reverse- thats a normal operation
The TL should never lose fluid
there is a leak somewhere that needs to be pressure tested to find
May be a bad seal on the cap, or a hole in hose or leak in radiator seam
You cant just fill these up!!!!- there is a detailed procedure to ensure no air is trapped- if it is- you get screwy readings and the bottle wont do the transfer thing as designed
when coolant hot- you shut off engine- coolant gets pushed to bottle- thats the HOT max level mark-- there is a cold mark too!
check the hose inside the bottles cap first
NEVER open the main radiator cap when engine hot or even warm
Burns are a total bummer and you will get them on most of your upper body
If the radiator is low- check the overflow bottle- is the rubber hose inside the cap- that sticks down into the bottle - is not there?- likes to fall off and into the bottle- then it wont transfer coolant from the radiator to bottle and reverse- thats a normal operation
The TL should never lose fluid
there is a leak somewhere that needs to be pressure tested to find
May be a bad seal on the cap, or a hole in hose or leak in radiator seam
You cant just fill these up!!!!- there is a detailed procedure to ensure no air is trapped- if it is- you get screwy readings and the bottle wont do the transfer thing as designed
when coolant hot- you shut off engine- coolant gets pushed to bottle- thats the HOT max level mark-- there is a cold mark too!
check the hose inside the bottles cap first
NEVER open the main radiator cap when engine hot or even warm
Burns are a total bummer and you will get them on most of your upper body
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