Quick question buying a timing belt.

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Old 05-19-2006, 09:00 AM
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Quick question buying a timing belt.

Hey guys, I am going to have my friend who works at the dealer change my timing belt. He just told me to buy it. My question is do I just buy a timing belt??? Because on the autozone website there are

TIMING BELT COMPONENT KIT (RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT: KIT INCLUDES NEW BELT AND
ALL NEW TENSIONERS AND/OR IDLERS FOR THE APPLICATION)

$117.00

TIMING BELT TENSIONER

97.00

TIMING BELT

GATORBACK 40286 $29.99
INTERFERENCE ENGINE APPLICATION

HI_TECH 197286 3 MO $24.99

DURALAST-DAYCO 95286 $19.99
INTERFERENCE ENGINE APPLICATION

BECK_ARNLEY 026-1024 3 MO $41.99
HIGHLY SATURATED NITRILE 1 PER CAR



I am confuse. Do I just get the Timing belt? Or the Component kit? Or the Timing Belt Tensioner? Thank you much.
Old 05-19-2006, 09:18 AM
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You shouldn't need to replace the tensioner BUT

definitely replace the new water pump. It's a very easy replacement when you remove the timing belt and it should be replaced around the same time.
Old 05-19-2006, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by NSXNEXT
You shouldn't need to replace the tensioner BUT

definitely replace the new water pump. It's a very easy replacement when you remove the timing belt and it should be replaced around the same time.
Yes, this is what Acura dealerships do when you have them change your timing belt.
Old 05-19-2006, 12:11 PM
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ok so i have searched but i need to know if anyone has a DIY on this...im at 152k on original belt and im pretty good with car so if anyone has this please help what im wondering is...what has to be removed as far as the pully? i need diagrams how to get the water pump out... i think thats it
thanks
dont mean to hijack
Old 05-19-2006, 12:19 PM
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For the cost of the belt id buy the oem belt. The tensioner isnt needed, but i would recomend a H2O pump.
Old 05-19-2006, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by georgy_d28
ok so i have searched but i need to know if anyone has a DIY on this...im at 152k on original belt and im pretty good with car so if anyone has this please help what im wondering is...what has to be removed as far as the pully? i need diagrams how to get the water pump out... i think thats it
thanks
dont mean to hijack
Need to set every thing to top dead center #1 remove the powersteering belt and alt belt.remove the (side mount to get betl off) the timing belt covers remove teh crank pully, take a battery tiedown and insert it into a threaded hole by the tensioner to hold it loosen one of the idler pullies remove the belt remove the tensioner put it in a press or vise to compress insert a )and i really mean it) a hardened pin to hold it then reinstall every thing and hope you havent moved off top dead center
Old 05-19-2006, 12:24 PM
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Well that is it in a nut shell
Old 05-20-2006, 09:52 AM
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So I should just get one of these or the oem right:

TIMING BELT

GATORBACK 40286 $29.99
INTERFERENCE ENGINE APPLICATION

HI_TECH 197286 3 MO $24.99

DURALAST-DAYCO 95286 $19.99
INTERFERENCE ENGINE APPLICATION

BECK_ARNLEY 026-1024 3 MO $41.99
HIGHLY SATURATED NITRILE 1 PER CAR




I do not need to buy the TIMING BELT COMPONENT KIT right? Is the water pump expensive? Thanks for your help guys.
Old 05-20-2006, 09:58 AM
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gatorbacks a great belt, oem is just as good, most oem's are from reputable co's
Old 05-21-2006, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Need to set every thing to top dead center #1 remove the powersteering belt and alt belt.remove the (side mount to get betl off) the timing belt covers remove teh crank pully, take a battery tiedown and insert it into a threaded hole by the tensioner to hold it loosen one of the idler pullies remove the belt remove the tensioner put it in a press or vise to compress insert a )and i really mean it) a hardened pin to hold it then reinstall every thing and hope you havent moved off top dead center
alright thanks...any special procedure for getting the crank pulley off? thats the only part im worried about and i may add a ur pulley if i get it off so whats needed
Old 05-21-2006, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RickRoush03
gatorbacks a great belt, oem is just as good, most oem's are from reputable co's

So I just need to buy the timing belt and not the component kit right?
Old 05-21-2006, 06:15 PM
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For something like a Timing Belt, don't skimp, it could cost you your engine.
Old 05-21-2006, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by georgy_d28
alright thanks...any special procedure for getting the crank pulley off? thats the only part im worried about and i may add a ur pulley if i get it off so whats needed
Either get the special crank bolt tool or get crafty with a breaker bar. It can be a biotch to get loose

Originally Posted by Michael Wan
For something like a Timing Belt, don't skimp, it could cost you your engine.
x 10
Old 05-22-2006, 10:12 AM
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All you need is the Belt and the water pump. You don't really need the whole kit. Inspect and replace other related parts as needed only. Do as fsttyms1 said. the hardest part is to move the scank bolt and to set it to TDC. Make sure to use whiteout to mark the gear and the belt multiple places in case they slipped, and to make sure the new belt will come back in the same position.

One more very important thing, Take Your Time, Don't Rush, and Don't Do Shortcuts. It is doable thing, but requires patients.
Old 05-22-2006, 10:30 AM
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^^^ Agree. Take time and mark things just incase!
Old 05-24-2006, 10:36 AM
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Hell while everything is all apart for a new timing belt, Id change all the other belts, and definitely the H20 pump at the same time since there is little to no extra labor for it all. The other belts are not expensive, and you'll only have to deal with the inconvenience once. Id stick with OEM for the belts as well. They are high quality, and an exact fit.
Old 05-24-2006, 12:18 PM
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I would recommend replacing the tensioner for the following reason.

I recently replaced the T'belt on my 97 2.5TL (108K miles / 9yrs age) age and opened the tensioner to inspect the bearing and grease. The bearing turned smoothly and was serviceable, but the grease was almost completely dry. I don't think this tensioner would have survived till next belt is due.

A new tensioner is not expensive, and if you're really cheap (that's me!), you can clean/repack the bearing. I had purchased a new tensioner and did not reuse, but would have done so, had I not already purchased the tensioner.

good luck
Old 05-24-2006, 03:25 PM
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I thought the bearing is sealed, non-serviceable. How did you open it up to repack the grease?
Old 05-24-2006, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
I would recommend replacing the tensioner for the following reason.

I recently replaced the T'belt on my 97 2.5TL (108K miles / 9yrs age) age and opened the tensioner to inspect the bearing and grease. The bearing turned smoothly and was serviceable, but the grease was almost completely dry. I don't think this tensioner would have survived till next belt is due.

A new tensioner is not expensive, and if you're really cheap (that's me!), you can clean/repack the bearing. I had purchased a new tensioner and did not reuse, but would have done so, had I not already purchased the tensioner.

good luck
Depending on the year the TL has a hydraulic tensioner and isnt servicable, and no need to replace unless its leaking or not working right
Old 05-24-2006, 10:01 PM
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I've not seen the Acura hydraulic tensioner, but all the spring-loaded tensioners have a seal plate that can be pried out from inside edge of seal plate allowing the old grease to be washed out and new grease packed in. Seal plate is pushed back into place. Seal plate is a 3mm wide flat metal ring covered w/ black coating on outside.

2003 3.2 TL Tensioner

In the above tensioner, you would pry the red plate out from the inside to access the bearing and grease.

Regards
Old 05-24-2006, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
I've not seen the Acura hydraulic tensioner, but all the spring-loaded tensioners have a seal plate that can be pried out from inside edge of seal plate allowing the old grease to be washed out and new grease packed in. Seal plate is pushed back into place. Seal plate is a 3mm wide flat metal ring covered w/ black coating on outside.

2003 3.2 TL Tensioner

In the above tensioner, you would pry the red plate out from the inside to access the bearing and grease.

Regards
the 2003 has a hydraulic tensioner
Old 05-24-2006, 10:09 PM
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part # 18




the part you have shown is just a pully wheel. the Actual tensioner (part 18) pushes that (what you have shown)
Old 05-25-2006, 08:43 AM
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Anyone know of a site that I can buy the oem timing belt and water pump from?
Old 05-25-2006, 09:28 AM
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There is where you can find them:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...=1&catcgry1=TL
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