enyceexdanny

I've done some researching regarding the break-in (bed) procedure for the brake system.
But I have a few questions

[1] I had new rotors/pads installed about 3 weeks ago. I'm guessing it's too late to break it in, huh?

[2] I'm about to order some new pads/rotors today. On the instructions, it states that during the process do not perform a complete stop. But after the parts are installed, I don't know if there's any way to get somewhere to start the process without even stopping at all.... Especially since I live in New york city.. (alot of traffic lights everywhere)
So what should I do?

[3] I've asked this in one of my other threads, but I haven't gotten much response so I'm asking it again. I need recommendations for new brakes/rotors. The only one I've looked into was the irotors - cross drilled/slotted rotors and greenstuff brake pads. Are these fine for me? or would you recommend otherwise.. I don't race at all. Since I live in the city, there is alot of braking needed. Also, do you think it's worth it to get new brake lines? It costs about $100, but I'm not sure if it's needed.. If it helps alot, I'm thinking I might as well get all the parts I'll need.

Sorry for the many questions!

Thanks!

enyceexdanny

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mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer.


Try Rotora slotted rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads. Supposedly you don't need to bed the Axxis pads. I would do it just to be safe anyways though.

enyceexdanny

yeah, i found that information through google before.. you haven't answered any of my questions though...

enyceexdanny

the thing is that to actually get to the highway in order to break-in the pads, I'm going to end up stopping atleast 10-20 times.. (traffic light).. I'm wondering if that'll mess the whole process up.. =(

fsttyms1

thats fine just dont get them hot by doing the above steps and stopping. stopping on them right away is fine just dont do it hard.
and to add to the above every manufacturer wants their brakes broken in differently. for instance irotors wants 500 or so gentil driving then you bed the pads after that.that is the procidure i did with my brembos also and got great results with them doing it that way

enyceexdanny

hmm..so for irotors - 500 or so miles of driving before bedding?..

enyceexdanny

ahh, so it's ok to break lightly... It said not to brake at all, so I thought if I braked even once, my rotors wouldn't have been properly broken-in..

heh, silly me.

By the way, how long usually does the rotors and pads last anyways?
So let's say that the pad wears off, do i need to replace the rotors again? even though it's fine?

enyceexdanny

also, does the rotors come with instructions on which side was it should be installed?

Lawaia

Pad life is determined by the compound and style of driving. 52k miles on my TL and still on the original pads/rotors.


The rotor on the left is for the drivers side. The drill pattern acts as a fan that will pull air in to optimize cooling.

If you just installed new rotors and pads 3 weeks ago why are you looking at replacing them so soon

enyceexdanny

the dealer replaced them with some cheapo rotors/pads...

enyceexdanny

so those are two front rotors.. eh?

benzo555

no the left is rear, the right is the front..

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

I would go with the Rotoras over teh iRotors because of the E-Coating on the Rotoras that will prevent rust.

antlive

I tried using the bedding technique when I put my rotors on (irotors xdrilled/slotted, green stuff pads). For the first coupld hundred miles it was rough, but after a while it got better. What I'm facing now is the rough feeling I get will stopping. It feel like the pads are rubber. Its not a smooth feel.

Has anyone experience this?

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

^ Is it a vibration transmitted through the steering wheel or the brake pedal?