question about coil packs
#1
Rich
Thread Starter
question about coil packs
Are there any aftermarket coil packs for our car? I'm doing stuff to improve the gas mileage. I did seafoam, put gas treatment on the tank, changed the spark plugs. It's 03 TL-p with 105K. thanks
#3
as long as you put NGK Iridium plugs in it you have done what you can, assuming air filter and cabin filter are new
repeat seafoam in gas and vac port after a month then good for a year
Add air pressure to tires- 32 is a joke
repeat seafoam in gas and vac port after a month then good for a year
Add air pressure to tires- 32 is a joke
#4
Rich
Thread Starter
#5
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I was going to say maybe check connections of coil packs...and put some dielectric grease to make sure they never seize. I was getting a misfire on cylinder 4 on my RSX...I switched it with cylinder 1 and never got check engine again. I don't think the coilpacks are an effeciency gaining item.
#6
Rich
Thread Starter
I was going to say maybe check connections of coil packs...and put some dielectric grease to make sure they never seize. I was getting a misfire on cylinder 4 on my RSX...I switched it with cylinder 1 and never got check engine again. I don't think the coilpacks are an effeciency gaining item.
#7
air filter, tire pressure, and the rest you have done
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#8
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Lol...I was actually going to refer to you 01tl4tl for guidance.
I can tell you...I have manual, so maybe I have more control here...but when I make a concerted effort to not go over 75mph on the highway and really focus on barely touching the gas and shifting early, I've seen as much as a 4 mpg increase on a tank. My usual tanks get about 250 to 290 w/gas light on...I went 340 on this last tank driving like a grandma the last half of the tank. Driving style makes all the difference.
Coil packs are not the same as the old distributors that got corroded and needed to be changed ot improve spark and effeciency in the sense that they either fire, or they don't. It's all electronic. That is my understanding at least.
I can tell you...I have manual, so maybe I have more control here...but when I make a concerted effort to not go over 75mph on the highway and really focus on barely touching the gas and shifting early, I've seen as much as a 4 mpg increase on a tank. My usual tanks get about 250 to 290 w/gas light on...I went 340 on this last tank driving like a grandma the last half of the tank. Driving style makes all the difference.
Coil packs are not the same as the old distributors that got corroded and needed to be changed ot improve spark and effeciency in the sense that they either fire, or they don't. It's all electronic. That is my understanding at least.
#9
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
yeah pretty much what OP has left is the air filter, since the rest of the car seems to be up to date on the maintence
but as said increasing the tire pressure will help some, 36 psi cold seems to be about right for me, with given even tread wear across the tires
also another thing you can do is slow down on the highway, and don't accelerate as hard in the city, but it's no fun driving then
, also try coasting to lights and such, vs accelerating to them and hitting your brakes; not going elaberate anymore on that cause it's easy enough to find how to drive for better MPG on the internet
also not turning on your A/C especially during the summer, will help too, but not very comfortable though, also getting tint on the windows (if not done already) will also help the A/C system not have to work as hard (so better fuel mileage) from the smaller heat/sun load being put into the interior itself
btw OP i use to live on Merritt Island![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
but as said increasing the tire pressure will help some, 36 psi cold seems to be about right for me, with given even tread wear across the tires
also another thing you can do is slow down on the highway, and don't accelerate as hard in the city, but it's no fun driving then
![Sad](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/sad.gif)
also not turning on your A/C especially during the summer, will help too, but not very comfortable though, also getting tint on the windows (if not done already) will also help the A/C system not have to work as hard (so better fuel mileage) from the smaller heat/sun load being put into the interior itself
btw OP i use to live on Merritt Island
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![Too Cool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/toocool.gif)
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-30-2010 at 12:40 PM.
#10
Senior Moderator
bump up the tire PSI to 36-38 and you will gain some, make sure to use premium fuel, make sure your air filter is clean, occasionally add seafoam to the fuel and intake to clean things, and make sure plugs are good. There arent any coils for our cars. Especially ones that would improve mileage.
#11
hey did you notice any increase in mpgs after doing all this? I have a thread about a similar question and was wondering what your results were....would be a great help for me cuz i also drive like 400 miles a week for college...like you said...even 1-2 mpg gain adds up. Im thinking about seafoaming and changing plugs.
#12
that will help any TL get better mileage~
tires 1mpg, seafoam 1-3, driving style, coasting to lights 1-3++???
AC- dont even ask me to give that up in the summer!
DO run the ac in winter at least once a month for 10 minutes minimum- that conditions the seals, circulates the lubricating oil inside etc- saves the compressor
Using front defrost activates ac on most modern cars
Do seafoam twice in gas and vac port, a month/1500 miles apart
and do the engine oil method with some driving just before change, a free spinning engine runs better
wait a few days to a week after first seafoam before replacing plugs- a lot of stuff is being loosened and removed immediatly- then more as the gas goes thru the system
tires 1mpg, seafoam 1-3, driving style, coasting to lights 1-3++???
AC- dont even ask me to give that up in the summer!
DO run the ac in winter at least once a month for 10 minutes minimum- that conditions the seals, circulates the lubricating oil inside etc- saves the compressor
Using front defrost activates ac on most modern cars
Do seafoam twice in gas and vac port, a month/1500 miles apart
and do the engine oil method with some driving just before change, a free spinning engine runs better
wait a few days to a week after first seafoam before replacing plugs- a lot of stuff is being loosened and removed immediatly- then more as the gas goes thru the system
#13
let us know your results- with your miles weekly it should show with each change
Cold weather sucks pressure out of tires
The TL likes a little bit of throttle on accelleration- say 2500-3000 will get it to speed and then use less gas than tiptoeing to 35 then having to brake for the next light
Cold weather sucks pressure out of tires
The TL likes a little bit of throttle on accelleration- say 2500-3000 will get it to speed and then use less gas than tiptoeing to 35 then having to brake for the next light
#14
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
that will help any TL get better mileage~
tires 1mpg, seafoam 1-3, driving style, coasting to lights 1-3++???
AC- dont even ask me to give that up in the summer!
DO run the ac in winter at least once a month for 10 minutes minimum- that conditions the seals, circulates the lubricating oil inside etc- saves the compressor
Using front defrost activates ac on most modern cars
Do seafoam twice in gas and vac port, a month/1500 miles apart
and do the engine oil method with some driving just before change, a free spinning engine runs better
wait a few days to a week after first seafoam before replacing plugs- a lot of stuff is being loosened and removed immediatly- then more as the gas goes thru the system
tires 1mpg, seafoam 1-3, driving style, coasting to lights 1-3++???
AC- dont even ask me to give that up in the summer!
DO run the ac in winter at least once a month for 10 minutes minimum- that conditions the seals, circulates the lubricating oil inside etc- saves the compressor
Using front defrost activates ac on most modern cars
Do seafoam twice in gas and vac port, a month/1500 miles apart
and do the engine oil method with some driving just before change, a free spinning engine runs better
wait a few days to a week after first seafoam before replacing plugs- a lot of stuff is being loosened and removed immediatly- then more as the gas goes thru the system
#15
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
let us know your results- with your miles weekly it should show with each change
Cold weather sucks pressure out of tires
The TL likes a little bit of throttle on accelleration- say 2500-3000 will get it to speed and then use less gas than tiptoeing to 35 then having to brake for the next light
Cold weather sucks pressure out of tires
The TL likes a little bit of throttle on accelleration- say 2500-3000 will get it to speed and then use less gas than tiptoeing to 35 then having to brake for the next light
btw my tire runs at about 40 once warmed up from driving on them, which is as said about 36 psi cold
#16
I forgot the most important thing for gas savings- what I realized as soon as I drove somewhere today observing my rpm etc-
the best gas saver is the cruise control
Auto trans owners- once you are at 35mph in town, set the cruise, makes a big diffferance in town and on the freeway
Move your foot away from the gas pedal- the weight of it resting on the pedal adds more throttle than required, wasting gas
Give that a try- also cuts down on tickets in radar happy towns- Im going 40 all the way down this road without variation
In the rain I noticed how much the speed varied with foot pressure driving instead of cruise
dont use cruise in rain-wet roads. it can freak the speed sensors out when you hit a puddle and hydroplane~
the best gas saver is the cruise control
Auto trans owners- once you are at 35mph in town, set the cruise, makes a big diffferance in town and on the freeway
Move your foot away from the gas pedal- the weight of it resting on the pedal adds more throttle than required, wasting gas
Give that a try- also cuts down on tickets in radar happy towns- Im going 40 all the way down this road without variation
In the rain I noticed how much the speed varied with foot pressure driving instead of cruise
dont use cruise in rain-wet roads. it can freak the speed sensors out when you hit a puddle and hydroplane~
#17
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
or for rain, stay out of the tire ruts where the water likes to collect, (so basically stay on the high parts, where the water drains right away), cause the tires gotta push the water out of the way
like i have notice when you do kinda drift into the ruts, you kinda lurch foward from the water slowing down the car, so it takes more throttle to maintain the same speed
let alone less likly to hydroplane staying out of the ruts, the tires do not need to push as much water out of the way
like i have notice when you do kinda drift into the ruts, you kinda lurch foward from the water slowing down the car, so it takes more throttle to maintain the same speed
let alone less likly to hydroplane staying out of the ruts, the tires do not need to push as much water out of the way
#19
Rich
Thread Starter
hey did you notice any increase in mpgs after doing all this? I have a thread about a similar question and was wondering what your results were....would be a great help for me cuz i also drive like 400 miles a week for college...like you said...even 1-2 mpg gain adds up. Im thinking about seafoaming and changing plugs.
#20
its not the egr valve that needs to be cleaned but the ports inside the intake manifold
see diy Thermoblock install and Egr CLEANING
tire psi- 35 or 36 all around is what you want on stock tires, and same or slightly higher psi in the rear of the TL makes it handle a little better
see diy Thermoblock install and Egr CLEANING
tire psi- 35 or 36 all around is what you want on stock tires, and same or slightly higher psi in the rear of the TL makes it handle a little better
#21
egr port cleaning on 99s was a recall, and all newer years a DIY every 75k miles or so
#22
Rich
Thread Starter
its not the egr valve that needs to be cleaned but the ports inside the intake manifold
see diy Thermoblock install and Egr CLEANING
tire psi- 35 or 36 all around is what you want on stock tires, and same or slightly higher psi in the rear of the TL makes it handle a little better
see diy Thermoblock install and Egr CLEANING
tire psi- 35 or 36 all around is what you want on stock tires, and same or slightly higher psi in the rear of the TL makes it handle a little better
#23
turning on the defroster does the same thing no need to use the A/C
#25
I love it when fries catches one IN my favor lol
Yes its true as we both said! use ac in winter to keep it running great in summer
We have many ziners who dont even use seat heat so why would they need defrost?
they can use the ac controls to ON- fan whatever and drive
Its more something cars with nav have to think about- the ac knob not being right there on the dash
Yes its true as we both said! use ac in winter to keep it running great in summer
We have many ziners who dont even use seat heat so why would they need defrost?
they can use the ac controls to ON- fan whatever and drive
Its more something cars with nav have to think about- the ac knob not being right there on the dash
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