proper/preferred 3x3 method???

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Old 09-11-2014, 06:26 PM
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proper/preferred 3x3 method???

hello all ... just to be sure before proceeding, i am reading some drive a whole day between each of the d/f's & do it over 3 days , and others drive for 5-10 min & do it all within 20-45 min. which is the correct or preferred method ? also, can i go with amsoil trans fluid (have seen fsttyms1 post that it is fine), as i have down the block access as opposed to honda dealership being across town.
Old 09-11-2014, 06:35 PM
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I go by 1 week of normal use between each change... So basically a change last me 1 week and the whole 3x3 last 3 weeks.. I do this because I don't think less than a day is enough to incorporate the old dirty oil with the brand new one in every small gap inside the trans.

I personally won't recommend AMSOIL because it foamed on me and burned my trans.
Yes it was completely the oil fault...
Old 09-11-2014, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
I go by 1 week of normal use between each change... So basically a change last me 1 week and the whole 3x3 last 3 weeks.. I do this because I don't think less than a day is enough to incorporate the old dirty oil with the brand new one in every small gap inside the trans.

I personally won't recommend AMSOIL because it foamed on me and burned my trans.
Yes it was completely the oil fault...
hey sounds good to me & makes sense! i'll be doing this method unless someone objects with a legitimate reason as to why lol ... but i pretty much trust Skirmich advice so far ........... haha
Old 09-11-2014, 10:29 PM
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I would follow the owner book method=where you drive less than 5 minutes using each gear up and down twice (include prn) max speed of 35-45 is all you need
drain again, refill and repeat, stay in the neighborhood if possible just to keep exhaust and fluid temps reasonable for you to climb back under

you don't want to mix the fluids, just change them
the extra fluid used in a 3x3, -the trans holds 7.3- so you are pushing some extra thru it to get as much as humanly possible of the old fluid out

Reminder this methods was designed for the odd chance someone ever put Dextron atf in the TL, immedialty do a full changeout to rid the offending fluid before it kills the trans! Shops that use old school pressure system to flush fluids also use dextron- there have been ziner cars would not drive off the machine after dextron flush!!! toasted right on the spot

amsoil is great in many cars, used it in my youth- do you know Al?
but the TL is picky about certain fluids and you want to keep this trans running, correct?
Then its worth the drive to Honda or acura, also ck local import car parts store- they carry Honda oils, and amz and other top shelf brands
probably find 5.1 brake fluid there too!
Old 09-11-2014, 10:32 PM
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those in need of the owner book I refer to - the same one that comes with the car when new- get a free download at Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits
register with cars VIN -you can store radio nav security codes there and much more besides the book
Old 09-11-2014, 10:36 PM
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skd have you ckd the option of `the accord method` seen on youtube and here
you can do an engine/trans running fluid change- same as dealer does on the new cars
pour in as it pours out, bad color turns to new color and you are done!

I suggest saving a 3 ounce sample from mid drain of the first draining, send to blackstone labs and learn trans health
Can be worth doing that before a full changeout

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-11-2014 at 10:38 PM.
Old 09-11-2014, 11:24 PM
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^ I did it once but the whole idea of turning the car on while the trans pours the oil out and suck the new in still makes me uncomfortable like the clutch packs will get the new oil with different slip properties too fast and won't like it.

The accord method sounds like a way so the dealership can do the change faster at the expense of our trans since they cannot do a normal flush.. Granted it won't damage it but the clutch packs will not like be driving with +30K oil one minute and suddenly all brand new the next.

I'd stick with the 3x3 since I think driving for 3 weeks while changing the fluid is easier to the trans and also clean the heavy debris out.. We'll if I wasn't changing my ATF in a yearly basis anyway. My trans don't last more than 15K with the ATF on it, a bit overkill but It has worked for the past 100K in a 1300 bucks rebuild original trans.

Last edited by Skirmich; 09-11-2014 at 11:31 PM.
Old 09-12-2014, 01:40 AM
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had to post this lol ... autozone guys talking car stuff behind counter like so people could hear ... ya know, to show they "know" cars whoooooaaaaa watch out now!!! anyhow, so i ask do you guys carry honda dw-1? younger guy like 19 or 20 responds "what year honda" i say "well, i'm just looking for the dw-1" - he says "well what year honda" - i sigh & say "well, ok its a 1999" - he says, very knowledgably & firm "oh no worries any honda older than 2006 we have exactly what you need , castrol which says good for hondas right on the bottle". i politely say "oh ok, thanks" & walk out.
... i wouldn't touch it , but IS that an option that works say for someone that knows no better & takes his advice ? because i would feel horrible for the uneducated to go there & use this castrol that says "safe for hondas" on the bottle!
Old 09-12-2014, 03:18 AM
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^ Yah that is why we saw the super high amount of dead TL's...
They promote Castrol yet mine died with the super "High End" AMSOIL ATF poor bastards don't have a clue.

There are picky cars, then there are Hondas..
Never try your luck with Hondas is a lost game already.
Old 09-12-2014, 03:49 PM
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there is a major difference between- compatible = meets specs of oil but not same additives as Honda,
and The Correct Fluid for the job
Which do you think is the one for your trans
If you only have 30-40 kmiles since rebuild or last change- it should be fine with a full fluid changeout at once
only cars with 100k have issues!
is it on dw1 now?

as for accord method- the gurus at corp came up with a way for the new cars - those from the current decade~ with trans that have different lockup systems or those cvt trans etc but they wanted/needed the wheels turning to make the trans push the fluid forward to the drain, and they also figured it had been 20 years since last method change

Its not as hard as you think- a buddy is helpful to tell you how much is coming out as you pour in
used to do this on the ol chevy truck- with only the dipstick hole to fill thru!
with the TL massive filler opening on top = glug glug glug try not to add it tooo fast

fsttyms1 says this is the way to do it if possible- bad fluid comes out and new fluid appears very soon

AS always: this is only one mans opine- if you prefer the 1 time per week, do that!!
the suggestion to get oil analyzed stands, applies to engine oil too -know how things are before they surprise/cost you

Last edited by 01tl4tl; 09-12-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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