Originally Posted by tegkid

personally i'd take everything i could and keep the duplicate pieces as spares.

Originally Posted by fsttyms1

Heads, Upper and lower intake. Though if the motor is shot the heads may be no good

Originally Posted by DC3328

take everything you can if its free!

Originally Posted by JCharged

You didn't get the heads?

Also the J32A2 TB size is 66mm. You could use your stock one but if you plan on upgrading use the Type-S one and get a custom 3 inch intake or get an intake for a Type-S.

Parts cleaner to clean everything, that and a nice toothbrush, scrubs and a brillo pad.

Originally Posted by Rockstar21

not sure what this is.. i cant seem to find one in my engine bay. Type-S'ers?

Originally Posted by TheSentinel

This is an extra butterfly for the intake that the S has there is also an extra couple of rectangular butterfles under the IM cover that i don't think are in the P (i could be mistaken.) shold be 1-2 extra cable pulleys for butterflies on the IM.

Originally Posted by Rockstar21

so will it bolt up to the TL-P engine in the case i cant use the S motor?

Originally Posted by Blazin Accord

Hey My name is Matt i did this swap for my buddy (this is his username) and he said since people have claimed to have done it but never posted pics or how to or disclaimed the facts that its not just a direct bolt on plug in deal if you have the manifolds uppper and lower and the gaskets and throttle body. so here is fiction and here is fact! sorry for crappy pics!

whats needed:

CLS upper and lower manifolds:

CLS throttle body:

New gaskets from acura: (suggested)

Fuel injectors from: S2000(AP1)or 03-04 Pilot/02-04 Oddy/01-03 TL-S/CL-S (stock ones are too tall for the fuel rail sits about 1/2 inch lower on the CLS manifold as the stock one)did not have CLS rails so could not compare

nine m8 1.25 pitch bolts 2.5 inches long (i used stainless steel flange head bolts from true value hardware) the stock 1.75 inch ones are not long enuff yes bigger is better

TOOLS:

hacksaw
socket set metric
pliers
hose cutter
degreaser if your manifolds are filthy
closed end wrenches all metric
possibly something to clean off old gasket material ie razorblade scotch bright pad diy ya know?

now some difference pics and why should you do this?
honestly the stock manifold sucks. small runners even smaller throttle body the CLS manifold has large surge tanks and velocity stacks built into the runners. i would say the throttle body and manifold are 30% larger and much more efficent. also the s2000 injectors are 30% larger so thats a pretty good upgrade but you still should tune with a V-afc or better. here are some pics

oval stock round CLS


throttle body can you tell a difference?





the stock throttle body fits inside (poor pic sorry)


ok lets fire away:


FIRST!
open hood....
well pop hood first but to do that you have to open your door but you might have to unlock said door but first you have to go to your car.... lets just go to important steps

take off air intake tube stock of aftermarket there is a clamp and two air hoses the go to it.. remember where they go remove all the engine covers top sides and coil pack harness cover. they dont fit anymore. remove negative off the battery

disconnect everything connected to the throttle body. the two throttle cables going to firewall and cruise controll, 12mm wrench take the inside nut loose and spin past the black spot so the cable will come free. pull to linkage and slip out of groove on the backside

unplug TPS radiator side, MAP sensor top, AIC bottom, there are three hoses that connect to the throttle body too.. on has coolant in the bottom not much will leak out but some use a good pair of pliers angled needle nose work best. there is a plate on the firewall side that has the brake booster hose and two smaller vacume hoses on it. also there is a hose on the back side of the manifold by the power steering pump that goes to the valve cover (firewall side) remove both as some trimming down will be needed.



remove the nine 12mm bolts from the center of manifold if everything is disconnected you should be able to pull off with the throttle body on it with little effort

the fuel rails are connected to the lower runners via two 8mm bolts there on the side of the rail next to injectors unplug all the injectors by squeeqing clips move the harness out of the way as much as possible.

the backside will take some effort, also remove the feed line from the battery side, they are 10mm make sure you have a box or can or tray to put all your hardware in. remove rails with injectors in they keep track of the grommets the injectors sit in the manfolds you will need them, unbolt the 12mm bolts that hold on the manifolds to the head, start with the firewall side as the radiator side has one thats impossible to get to without the other off, use a wrench for the two inside and a socket for the outsides the battery side will need a short 12 and the powersteering pump side will need a 12mm and an extension.. dont worry if you drop a bolt into the space between the heads BUT DO NOT DROP ONE DOWN THE RUNNERS! wriggle the manfold out it doesnt come easy but it does come out there is a breather tube there that you have to remove trace it back to the PCV remove completely. NOW IMPORTANT>. you have to remove the hard plastic holders off the wires for the injectors and coil packs on both sides.. its just slip clips and tape.. re wrap the harness in electrical tape. the manifold will not fit on if you do not do this!
use a ratchet and extension to take of the radiator side there easy to get to. remove. removed both gaskets, fish out any bolts you may have dropped,, make sure the head surface is clean for the new gasket, now the old one is gone.

CLS MANIFOLD PREP,

remove stock throttle body from manifold, remove the throttle cable bracket, the MAP sensor on the top, the entire sensor assembly on the bottom (all phillips screws insert a good fitting screwdriver and smack the top of the screw driver with a rubber mallet or a peice of wood or whatever this helps to prevent stripping and loosens the screw inside, remove white air intake temp sensor and put in CLS manifold,

TPS removal.. if the CLS throttle body you got does not have a TPS on it.. take your stock throttle body. hold it securely and with a hacksaw slowly and precisly cut a groove on each screw as they have no heads, go about 1/8 inch down enuff to get a flat head screwdriver in, twist to remove cut deeper if you strip it out. if you cut them right you can reuse them. as seen here


once you have the throttle body done and clean. (make sure there is no old gasket on the backside and that everything works open and closes correctly i dissasembled this one and lightly polished the inside with a angle grinder with a 3m scotchbright pad on the end. but carb cleaner and some elbow grease will get you clean,


MANIFOLD:
not much to be done here remove the metal top cover, (Blue in the pics)the bolts are 10mm i opted to buy new ones from the dealer since i wanted them shiny. very affordable. take your trusty phillips and your mallet/wood and remove the butterflys there tough to get it smack them good then unscrew, then remove the triangle peice from the backside of the manifold. pull the rotating peice out, i filled the hole with this stuff called quicksteel.. its a putty, make sure you have a lip on the edge if your boosted consider having it welded. clean manifold and surfaces.
i painted the whole thing with a light dusting of primer and high temp aluminum paint.. just dust the thing that paint wants to run and drip easily..take your time


now that your manifold and gaskets are ready. take your fuel rails (if your reusing your stock ones) match them up to your new lower manifolds. you will have to drill two new holes on the battery side of them. just a little fab here but not too bad!
new bolt in your new lower manifolds with your new lower gaskets onto the engine, you can reuse the same bolts you took out. putting the firewall side one back in is a pain but it will go. install your lower fuel injector grommets into the rails and install the s2000 injectors or CLS injectors.. (there is a way to use your stock ones you have to have the injector seats bored out a little you can see the difference and why if you try to put them in) make sure your O rings on the top are in good working order replace if nessicary but it is recomended gently push them into the rail before you put the rail into the car.. spin them to make sure there in there snug and didint tear (yes its possible) hook up the fuel lines again, make sure they dont tear the o ring just be gentle if your having problems getting them in a little vasoline will help. (your sick btw



notice how the manifold is much bigger then the head. porting in the near future? or even the CLS heads?


now with the right gasket,, and the throttle body installed on the manifold and tightend down allready, install the new manifold assembled onto the runners.. now i had an issue lining it up and having everything out of the way. carefully line up the holes and use you new hardware m8 1.25 2.5 inch bolts nine of them and install and tighten.. torque to 15ftlbs start from the inside expanding outwards. install upper gasket and cover and tighten in a criss cross pattern. snug them but dont over tighten. hook up everything you unplugged. cut hose from valve cover to manifold and install on the air fitting on firewall side the power steering pump side. install both vac hoses onto it.. doest matter which one goes where, install intake. re attached battery cable., now.. turn your ignition on to power but not start it.. check for fuel leaks. start car for 3 seconds. then shut off.. check for fuel leaks again. no leaks? good deal. start car let idle. if you have a uni chip thats not tuned for it.. the car runs like ass.. take that thing out. the car now has a much deeper sound to it. make sure there are no leaks and everything is flush down.. give the car time to adjust if you have a check engine light.. you forgot something. adjust the idle if off with the screw below the tps on front of throttle body.. it has a waxy gluey cover of it.. it comes out easy and ajust clockwise idle down counter clockwise idle up.

ENJOY! if any problems you can ask me!

Originally Posted by JDM Inspired

dam 100 for a TYPE-S motor the best deal is seen by FAR!!! GET that bitch runnin or try to even get a tranny....you never know!

Originally Posted by fsttyms1

Throw away or sell the 2nd throttle body you bought Its just for VSA which you dont have and cant add. Yse the type-s tb, dont try to mount yours to it. Take the cables off the type-s one and install your cables to it. You WILL need the lower Intake manifolds like i posted in my first post. Im not positive but i think the fuel rails need to be changed to fit too. You also need the 2nd stage actuator to connect to the 2nd stage of the intake and a RPM switch to activate it.

Originally Posted by JCharged

If you don't want it...I could take it from you...

I don't think rebuilding it and cleaning everything should be a problem.

Originally Posted by fsttyms1

Throw away or sell the 2nd throttle body you bought Its just for VSA which you dont have and cant add. Yse the type-s tb, dont try to mount yours to it. Take the cables off the type-s one and install your cables to it. You WILL need the lower Intake manifolds like i posted in my first post. Im not positive but i think the fuel rails need to be changed to fit too. You also need the 2nd stage actuator to connect to the 2nd stage of the intake and a RPM switch to activate it.

Originally Posted by NSXNEXT

Kris is correct (I know I went through the trouble of fitting the same pieces on my 99TL).

To use the TLS intake manifold on your 99TL you'll need:
fuel rails
injector bases (a.k.a. lower intake manifolds)
fpr
assorted fuel lines
fuel injectors