Going to be Installing a set of XS headers on my 03 TL-P next week or two. just bought them, and this is my prelude to putting them on. These should have no problems... as the seller had bought two simutaneously, and his other set on his brother's car had absolutely no problems.

Going to soak 6 nuts and bolts on the OEM headers and cat/downpipe with Seafoam Deep Creep for about 1 week. Got some grade 8 nuts and bolts that came with the sale. If the OEM gasket is good, that will stay. Jack up the car on jack stands, and go at it with a wrench and breaker bar. Hopefully the rusted bolts will go easy on me. If not, getting the shop to get the bolts on the cat/downpipe off [heard thats where most of the problem lies].

is there a certain torque the header bolts have to be torqued to? I rmemeber seeing that somewhere... but cant seem to find that info anymore. Any other insights/ help with making the install as easy as pie, ill greatly appreciate. Been searching this site for many help, and ive put together the above said. THANKS!

Wish me luck... will post pics/vids on install...

 

First off, I would replace any gaskets being removed.

And isn't Deep Creep a cleaner more so than a penetrant? I would use something like PB Blaster.

 

hmm, i thought it was a penetrant as well, looks like it as far as the website for seafoam says, unless im misunderstanding it. the seller also mentioned to use the deep creep, as he did and it gave him no problems... mayb ill dose the nuts and bolts in both.

 

deep creep is fine. not sure about the torque, but i would replace gaskets as well - while you're there.

 

deep creep is awesome at getting into rust, a weeks soaking and they may fall off!!
overnight should be fine
It will help if you can go for a short drive of 15 minutes- to warm the metals-deep creep/seafoam works better with heat- then spray header bolts and whatever mount bolts and hangers, cat bolts...

TIP: try tightening stuck bolts/nuts SLIGHTLY by turning to the right
that often breaks the bond of rust- then its lefty loosie to remove

New gaskets for sure - old ones will leak and make extra work

ck kragen or autozone websites- they have diy help with all torque specs
or ask at dealer- they will know.. or let you look in the repair manual

optional: assuming you own a torque wrench- set it to tighten and place on bolt, try to tighten, upping the setting until it clicks as soon as pressure applied
thats your torque value

guessing 20 ft lbs on exhaust bolts--always based on bolt size/thickness

You can look up torque value by bolt size online--there are plenty of sites with charts,,an 8mm takes 12,,as made up example

test calibrate your wrench before use
test on known value bolt and compare readings
2-4% can be several pounds off indicated!!

 

okay 01tl4tl, you convinced me, i was contemplating whether i should attempt to get this job done myself, but you have made me made up my mind. I will do as the above said.

altho i dont own a torque wrench, i may purchase one, and return after im done with it... its not that cheap! altho... may be good for future investments.

 

Honestly, you're not working with engine internals so a Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench should do fine, even with their +/-4%.

They're not that expensive and may come in handy in the future. My

 

you can reuse the manifold gaskets as long as you dont bend them.

 

hate it when two senior tl gurus have different answers to the same question!! but might go with new gaskets to be on the safe side, acura was 25$ a piece... thats 50$ for 2!!

Also contacted the stealership, the lady who answered the phone said she asked two techs in the back and they both said just tighten them until they're tight. Im kind of iffy on believing that...

based on the site, the bolts needed for the headers are 10x30mm... and the according to some google charts i found, looks like the torque specs for grade 8 bolts in this size is 22-24lbs/ft [the range due to different charts...].

to 01tl4tl's comment on the bolts falling off... you dont mean to mean the deep creep with eat thru and make it fall off right...? just hypothetical...?

 

If I can give you a few tips:

1. Have a sawzall with metal blades handy for the bolts for downpipe to cat.
2. Have somebody around that can help you out
3. Dont bend gaskets and you can re-use, however I'd recommend new hardware.

Good luck

 

Per the helms manual, the torque spec for the self-locking nut 8x1.25mm used on the stock exhaust manifold installation is 23lbf-ft. In addition, along with the exhaust gasket it states to replace these nuts.

 

alright thanks for all the help guys/gals. i really appreciate it... cant wait to make it happen.

 

I defer to kris on the gasket issue- he has more experience on that matter than I do

buy a HFT torque wrench for 15 bucks and an adapter socket for 1/2 inch to 3/8.
their 1/2 wrench reads down lower- which we need for manifold bolts

self calibrate before use by testing on tighten= as I have describd many many times~

 

No- REALLY! deep creep applied to rusty bolts set at 22 ft lbs--
those will literally spin them selves right off!!
this stuff is going to eleminate the need for mechanics tools!!
cant believe its only been on the market for 50 some years~

 

Just as important as the torque settings would be to tighten all bolts in a logical pattern. Hand-tighten (or snug) all bolts first, and then do final tightening. In other words, don't just install bolt #1 all the way to torque spec, then bolt #2 all the way, and so on. Tighten each of them gradually, going down the line, with ever-increasing torque along the way until all are done to spec. This would also apply to the 3-way flange downpipe and cat connections.

 

will do. i have all the sockets and adaptors, i just need the torque wrench. this deep creep stuff is going to amaze me. long as it doesnt cause any problems like self twisting off lol. thanks for al the help guys! looks like ill be saving 50$ on gaskets...

 

ohh and the torque thing.. i usually do that with any install [comp table, chairs etc] just a pain in the ass when you think its all good and tighten each bolt down, just to find out one stupid bolt wont line up at the end...

 

does anyone think it'll be a good idea to get a high flow cat on? I just had the WS2 catback installed, so that side of the bolt was easy to come off, perhaps ill just get the HFC and take the headers with the cat off!

will the 3rd gen tl XLR8 HFC fit our 2nd gens?

 

ask josh at excelerate