ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

I have a 99'. So I recently changed my alternator to a CL-S alternator because my old one was making a buzzing sound. While I was at it, I had my mechanic change some belts as well (2 of them). After everything was put back together the alternator worked but now the power steering pump was whining. After some idling, the power steering fluid started to get bubbly and eventually started to leak from the top of reservoir (with the red top on). I started to turn the wheel side to side until it couldn't go anymore. It whines while I turn and whines even louder when its all the way to the sides. He had another power steering pump from a TL-S and we put it in, same problem. This time we actually drove it and the sound went away a lot plus leaking stopped and wasn't bubbly. I drove home.

Now, about 3-4 weeks later the sound is back but not as loud. I notice it when I am not moving and I turn the wheel. Sometimes when I'm not moving and start turning the wheel (ex: trying to park) it is very hard to turn it and starts making an annoying sound. Also, as I accelerate the whining of the PS pump gets higher pitched and louder. Only good thing is that when Im idling and not moving the steering wheel, nothing can be heard. Also it always smells funny around the PS pump and reservoir. Smells like new sneakers.

I read somewhere that sometimes people change their belts and stuff like this happens. Why is that and most importantly, what are some ways to fix this annoying problem?!

01tl4tl

first make sure the ps belt tension is correct--easy to overtighten and ruin pumps

make sure the system is fully burped/bled by turning wheels fully one way then the other at idle

is the fluid level between min and max in ps res? too full will cause overflow when hot

hocthainguyen

the reason it make that sound is because the pump is using metal plate inserted in a cylinder gaps..(about 9)... as time the O rings inside get bad and the cylider move too freely causing that sound...try going to one of the auto parts store and ask for a power steering repair kit... (powercraft)...its 22.99 and it beat buying a new PS pump....stock item #8930.....take out your PSP and replace the seal and O rings...also clean out the pressure regulator valve inside the pump....be careful to take it apart slowly and remember where each parts go and the facing of it....good luck....

01tl4tl

great info! If you do this please take pics and create a DIY for others

rcb2000

maybe checking the fluid level and getting all of the air out of the pump would be cheaper and easier. They didn't do a very good job the first time around as the air in the lines pumped the fluid out and most likely the belt is over tightened as well. If the Pump is making noise then 9 times out of 10 it's low on fluid.

01tl4tl

improper ps belt tension is a real problem on the timing belt job = too tight kills pump

Not much reason for the system to be low on fluid..leaks~
otherwise crud in system from not changing ps fluid may be the culprit
It can even eat the internal seals of the steering rack!!

to see if there is air in the system, put cardboard on ground under front wheels to reduce friction,
Start car and turn wheel slowly from full lock to opposite lock
A few times of that will dislodge any bubbles
Its also how you drain the fluid via the return line, and refill it correctly with burping

hocthainguyen

well...as he had discribe that he see that it bubblings and spill out...you can actually see that the flow is moving too fast....i done my already and it quit now...and the flow is calmer now...=) i will take pictures this coming weekend when i do the same thing to my nephew car in houston....he drive a 99 accord....which used the same pump....the reason i couldnt do his is because they dont have it in stock at the auto part....you just go there and they will get it for you...take one or two day....and you cant even put fluid in to the actually limit because it will flow out the canister....the pressure too fast....

hocthainguyen

...and it actually stop making that noise if there is no fluid running thru it....but you wont have power steering.....

rcb2000

or seals for vary long either running it dry like that.

what you do is fill it up about half way put the cap on the pump then turn the wheel with the engine runnig stop to stop until the noise starts to go away or completely goes away then top of the tank to the proper level and repeat and it shouldl be nice and queit, if not the pump is bad.

hocthainguyen

that the point ....the way the pump is made....it hard for it break unless you been running it without fluid for too long...the way it make the seal and the O'rings will go out first....

hocthainguyen

hocthainguyen

click on the X for the diagram...

hocthainguyen

hocthainguyen

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...00000087634281

hocthainguyen

hocthainguyen

TLer trash

A lot of people have had this problem after doing belts, etc. A common cause seems to be the ps pump inlet o-ring. It somehow gets disturbed and will allow air to get sucked into the pump even though no fluid leak is apparent. I'd try this first;....cheap, quick, and easy.

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

When I got the belts changed, my PS pump that was on my car already started making the noise. We had another one laying around and we put that in but started making the noise....i might have to buy a used PS pump.

01tl4tl

good info trash--Always ck orings when working with PS system~~

Only supposed to move the res on the 105
but some may remove it totally if planning to change fluid anyway

01tl4tl

iirc part of the gen3 ps hose recall was due to the oring failure and sucking in air,

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

I took some video of how severe the sound is of my on going problem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBj4rAphonw

Also, the day after I took that video, I took another video because the noise almost went away (this happens a lot). The sound will come back then some random day it'll go away. In addition to that, you will notice a ticking sound in the following video. After very little inspection I found that every time it makes that sound, the shiny thing in the middle of the picture sort of rattles and shakes a bit but not too much that it looks like its going to fly off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haPuXfTj-Oo

01tl4tl

that shiny thing is the ac belt tensioner- a common failure
mine was done at 80kmiles, makes noise, belt tension changes with every change in rpm

replace entire unit - not just the roller, you need both parts new
aftermarket or acura pretty close in price iirc,,make some calls
mine was 85 a few years ago

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that's the EXACT same noise I have. Minus the ticking.

I might end up just getting it replaced at the stealership. I don't want to buy a used pump and install it myself only to find that the problem wasn't fixed.

01tl4tl

get a mechanics stethascope and determine whats failed before going to buy parts or drop it at the shop

the ac tensioner is more common failure than actual ps pump

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

So I went down to NC for new years. While I was down there I got that AC belt tensioner replaced by a family friend. (I didn't know the tensioner was originally black and not all shiny like that). Anyways, to get to the tensioner he removed the PS Fluid reservoir, loosened up the PS pump itself, and disconnected hoses. The whole time he changed the tensioner the fluid was leaking . As we put everything back together and turned on the car the Power steering pump has stopped making noise. I fixed two problems now shes back to normal, now my Amp stopped turning on. It started to burn one of the 4 awg power cables (Might be the ground cable) at its connection point on the amp. This happened driving to NC so all I did was replace the fuse which was clearly blown and it came back. Now the same problem happened coming back to jersey but no such luck when I changed the fuse!

For about 2 hours I could smell that cable bubbling up. Like burnt plastic.

acutee

The ac belt is easy to replace with a 14mm, ~10 degree offset boxed wrench, and another boxed wrench for extension. You shouldn't need to touch anything except the bolts on the ps reservoir so it can be pushed aside.

01tl4tl

they replaced his actual tensioner for the ac belt--the part that wears out and makes bad noises~

burning smell and melted plastic- repeated blown fuse= indicates a short- loose ground ?in that line

totaledTL

Why didn't you disconnect it so it would not burn until you could fix it?

01tl4tl

I think that was the end result
try a fuse, when it blows right away and you have no more spares..problem solved!
someone with an aftermarket amp amp seems likely to want tunes on a road trip~

maybe the smell was from first melting of the plastic and wire insulation,, and that doesnt go away fast~ electrical melting is the worst

3.2EL has been here long enough, and seems smart enough, to stop! after replacement fuse blows--there must be a real problem- not just a strange current spike from jump starting the car etc.

My question on topic: after you had the ps system open and lost fluid-
what fluid did you refill it with,, and did you burp it by turning wheels full lock to lock, slowly- that gets the air out for you
Final level in res should be between the marks-near full but never over even 1mm
Watch the res with engine running,,that fluid is moving- now rev engine--wow that fluid is really moving!!!!,,better leave some room to the cap so there are no issues~

totaledTL

^Huh? That was supposed to be in red right?

01tl4tl

try a fuse, when it blows right away and you have no more spares..problem solved!
someone with an aftermarket amp amp seems likely to want tunes on a road trip

now does it make sense?
once you are out of fuses you cant do any more damage!!

totaledTL

Remember the penny in the fusebox "trick"?

01tl4tl

probably why the change to the `plug in` fuses of todays cars

totaledTL

No- it's from the days of round screw in fuses used in homes, before circuit breakers.