Power Steering Nightmare!!! (I searched)

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Old 11-02-2011, 09:29 AM
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Power Steering Nightmare!!! (I searched)

2001 TL

Original PS Pump: All was normal unless temps dropped below 38 Deg. F. When below it would get air in the system and make the usual dreaded noise. I'd drive for about 10 minutes and shut the car down. If it sat for a few minutes, upon start-up you would hear the air bubbles evacuate the system. For the duration of a warm engine the noise was gone.

Fix 1: PS fluid change. Issue still existing

Fix 2: O-Rings per the recommendations on here. Issue still existing

Fix 3: O-Ring replacement again. Issue still existing

Fix 4: Replacement PS Pump 1 worked fine upon install. No noise or anything. After about 10 minutes of driving the pump would not generate enough pressure below 2k "under-load" rpm's. Figured it was just a bad pump so we swapped back to original while the shop got me a new pump. Original worked as before.

Fix 5: Replacement PS Pump 2 immediately allowed air in the line. It's whining like a son of a ***** just after start up. We did the bleed thing to no avail. Drove it for a day and it's still the same. When idling it's mostly fine, but turning is really loud.

(Note: There is no fluid loss in the system)

I'm about to pull an office space printer beat-down on this car. Anyone have any ideas? Could it just be two bad pumps in a row, or am I missing something?
Old 11-02-2011, 11:20 AM
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might be a prob in rack, seal leaking- have you inspected it ?

overtight ps belt will kill a pump in seconds,
belt has a loose spec compared to others
PS belt tensioner is freely spinning?

cleaned the rack with seafoam?
Old 11-02-2011, 11:22 AM
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Have you looked ay the rack?
Old 11-02-2011, 11:25 AM
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Agree with 01 on the belt also. Spec is 1"-1.5" deflection at center of pump and crank.
Old 11-02-2011, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tegmech
I'm about to pull an office space printer beat-down on this car.
lol.. I had the same problem as you before, and did all the step you did, change seal, turn lock to lock.. etc. I drove it for weeks and hope it will air itself but didn't.

I found by using the turkey base thingy to suck out the fluid in the reservoir all the way down the screen then refill. Works for me..!!

Try this and let us know if work for you.
Old 11-02-2011, 12:53 PM
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2 things: make sure the screen in the reservoir isn't restricted. Vacuum bleed it or have someone vacuum bleed it.
Old 11-02-2011, 02:07 PM
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yeah i would say vacuum bleed it
Old 11-02-2011, 06:10 PM
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Ive never heard of vac bleeding a TL ps system before--
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?

turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out

a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~

cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
Old 11-02-2011, 06:35 PM
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What kind of ps fluid are you using?
I think Honda said "turn steering wheel lock to lock seven times". After that I recheck and maybe do it again one more time. Wait for the bubbles to subside after the dirt and second bleed procedures.
Old 11-04-2011, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Ive never heard of vac bleeding a TL ps system before--
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?

turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out

a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~

cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
Basically, after you've replaced a ps component, filled and bled in the normal manner, if you still have air/noise you should try to vacuum bleed the system. Typically, you find or make an adapter to seal the ps reservoir that has a nipple you can apply vacuum to. Some sources say to do it with engine off using a hand vacuum pump, others use the running engine as a vacuum source. Usually you just pump it down to 15-20"hg and wait 10 minutes or so. The other way is to hook the vacuum line up to the engine and run it while turning the steering wheel lock to lock.
Many of the manufacturers/remanufacturers include vacuum bleeding instructions in the box with every ps pump or steering gear. Some insist that it has to be done before they will accept a part back as defective.
It's not something I've had to do very often, but when I've done it, the results were great.
Another benefit is that if the system doesn't hold vacuum, you know you've got an air leak.
Old 11-06-2011, 07:16 PM
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I have the same problem. My PS makes that lovely noise when it's cold out. I'm going to try a PS additive. I never use Lucas products, but their Power Steering Stop Leak fluid has lots of positive reviews. Even the guys over at the BITOG forum like it!

I'll let you know what happens.
Old 11-06-2011, 07:24 PM
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I had to replace my pump about 7k ago and I used lucas fluid not additive. (Picked up at autozone. Didnt feel like driving the 20 miles to the dealer). it says can be used with honda right on the front). No problems yet.
Old 12-06-2011, 02:48 AM
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Just an update - the Lucas additive doesn't seem to have helped.

Next I'll try the turkey baster, then, if that doesn't work, a full fluid change.

The noise is related to the ambient temperature. When it's cold out, the noise is very loud. As I drive the car and it warms up, the noise begins to disappear. On warm days there's virtually no noise at all.

This must be some hose/seal somewhere contracting with the cold, allowing in air which makes the noise, then expanding with heat eliminating the noise?
Old 12-06-2011, 02:29 PM
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Don't mess around with additives. You may "contaminate" your system with non Acura/Honda fluids. Which may or probably not cause problems later on.
Stay OEM or close don't ever put in stop leak. Fix the problem not the symptom.
But yes, hope you find what's going on with it.
Old 01-13-2012, 11:11 AM
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Any updates?
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