Power Steering Nightmare!!! (I searched)
#1
Viaka Heaven
Thread Starter
Power Steering Nightmare!!! (I searched)
2001 TL
Original PS Pump: All was normal unless temps dropped below 38 Deg. F. When below it would get air in the system and make the usual dreaded noise. I'd drive for about 10 minutes and shut the car down. If it sat for a few minutes, upon start-up you would hear the air bubbles evacuate the system. For the duration of a warm engine the noise was gone.
Fix 1: PS fluid change. Issue still existing
Fix 2: O-Rings per the recommendations on here. Issue still existing
Fix 3: O-Ring replacement again. Issue still existing
Fix 4: Replacement PS Pump 1 worked fine upon install. No noise or anything. After about 10 minutes of driving the pump would not generate enough pressure below 2k "under-load" rpm's. Figured it was just a bad pump so we swapped back to original while the shop got me a new pump. Original worked as before.
Fix 5: Replacement PS Pump 2 immediately allowed air in the line. It's whining like a son of a ***** just after start up. We did the bleed thing to no avail. Drove it for a day and it's still the same. When idling it's mostly fine, but turning is really loud.
(Note: There is no fluid loss in the system)
I'm about to pull an office space printer beat-down on this car. Anyone have any ideas? Could it just be two bad pumps in a row, or am I missing something?
Original PS Pump: All was normal unless temps dropped below 38 Deg. F. When below it would get air in the system and make the usual dreaded noise. I'd drive for about 10 minutes and shut the car down. If it sat for a few minutes, upon start-up you would hear the air bubbles evacuate the system. For the duration of a warm engine the noise was gone.
Fix 1: PS fluid change. Issue still existing
Fix 2: O-Rings per the recommendations on here. Issue still existing
Fix 3: O-Ring replacement again. Issue still existing
Fix 4: Replacement PS Pump 1 worked fine upon install. No noise or anything. After about 10 minutes of driving the pump would not generate enough pressure below 2k "under-load" rpm's. Figured it was just a bad pump so we swapped back to original while the shop got me a new pump. Original worked as before.
Fix 5: Replacement PS Pump 2 immediately allowed air in the line. It's whining like a son of a ***** just after start up. We did the bleed thing to no avail. Drove it for a day and it's still the same. When idling it's mostly fine, but turning is really loud.
(Note: There is no fluid loss in the system)
I'm about to pull an office space printer beat-down on this car. Anyone have any ideas? Could it just be two bad pumps in a row, or am I missing something?
#2
might be a prob in rack, seal leaking- have you inspected it ?
overtight ps belt will kill a pump in seconds,
belt has a loose spec compared to others
PS belt tensioner is freely spinning?
cleaned the rack with seafoam?
overtight ps belt will kill a pump in seconds,
belt has a loose spec compared to others
PS belt tensioner is freely spinning?
cleaned the rack with seafoam?
#5
2000 Acura TL
lol.. I had the same problem as you before, and did all the step you did, change seal, turn lock to lock.. etc. I drove it for weeks and hope it will air itself but didn't.
I found by using the turkey base thingy to suck out the fluid in the reservoir all the way down the screen then refill. Works for me..!!
Try this and let us know if work for you.
I found by using the turkey base thingy to suck out the fluid in the reservoir all the way down the screen then refill. Works for me..!!
Try this and let us know if work for you.
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#8
Ive never heard of vac bleeding a TL ps system before--
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?
turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out
a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~
cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?
turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out
a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~
cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
#9
What kind of ps fluid are you using?
I think Honda said "turn steering wheel lock to lock seven times". After that I recheck and maybe do it again one more time. Wait for the bubbles to subside after the dirt and second bleed procedures.
I think Honda said "turn steering wheel lock to lock seven times". After that I recheck and maybe do it again one more time. Wait for the bubbles to subside after the dirt and second bleed procedures.
#10
Ive never heard of vac bleeding a TL ps system before--
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?
turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out
a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~
cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
would that be to clean out the rack, and where would you do it?
turn the wheel full lock to opposite full lock several times to burb/bleed air out
a few ounces of fluid changed in the res is worthless, the system circulates fluid,, so its all dirty, 4 oz of 16 isnt going to cut it~
cardboard under front wheels reduces surface friction during burping!
Many of the manufacturers/remanufacturers include vacuum bleeding instructions in the box with every ps pump or steering gear. Some insist that it has to be done before they will accept a part back as defective.
It's not something I've had to do very often, but when I've done it, the results were great.
Another benefit is that if the system doesn't hold vacuum, you know you've got an air leak.
#11
I have the same problem. My PS makes that lovely noise when it's cold out. I'm going to try a PS additive. I never use Lucas products, but their Power Steering Stop Leak fluid has lots of positive reviews. Even the guys over at the BITOG forum like it!
I'll let you know what happens.
I'll let you know what happens.
#12
Always Working In
I had to replace my pump about 7k ago and I used lucas fluid not additive. (Picked up at autozone. Didnt feel like driving the 20 miles to the dealer). it says can be used with honda right on the front). No problems yet.
#13
Just an update - the Lucas additive doesn't seem to have helped.
Next I'll try the turkey baster, then, if that doesn't work, a full fluid change.
The noise is related to the ambient temperature. When it's cold out, the noise is very loud. As I drive the car and it warms up, the noise begins to disappear. On warm days there's virtually no noise at all.
This must be some hose/seal somewhere contracting with the cold, allowing in air which makes the noise, then expanding with heat eliminating the noise?
Next I'll try the turkey baster, then, if that doesn't work, a full fluid change.
The noise is related to the ambient temperature. When it's cold out, the noise is very loud. As I drive the car and it warms up, the noise begins to disappear. On warm days there's virtually no noise at all.
This must be some hose/seal somewhere contracting with the cold, allowing in air which makes the noise, then expanding with heat eliminating the noise?
#14
Don't mess around with additives. You may "contaminate" your system with non Acura/Honda fluids. Which may or probably not cause problems later on.
Stay OEM or close don't ever put in stop leak. Fix the problem not the symptom.
But yes, hope you find what's going on with it.
Stay OEM or close don't ever put in stop leak. Fix the problem not the symptom.
But yes, hope you find what's going on with it.
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