Post overheat troubles!
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Porkchop Sandwiches!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
Post overheat troubles!
Ok so last night I took a long drive back to my campus and I noticed on the highway my engine temp needle dropped down to the bottom of the gauge. When I was doing city cruising the car warmed up fine, but as soon as I got on the highway it started dropping. It wasn't that cold out, about 40 something, do you guy think its my thermostat?
Also I've lost TCC lockup, my trans have been acting like crap for a while now, but now I the torque converter doesnt lock... can this be overheat related?
Also I've lost TCC lockup, my trans have been acting like crap for a while now, but now I the torque converter doesnt lock... can this be overheat related?
This is the car with the sudden overheat and it stopped running- right?
Get the actual running temp of the coolant with a guage inserted in radiator,
Watch the radiator with the cap off and let the engine warm up in the driveway
Thermostat should open and then coolant flows thru radiator.
Dropping guage to bottom?- that may be guage or sendor issue, as outside temp wont make the car run THAT cold!!
Get the actual running temp of the coolant with a guage inserted in radiator,
Watch the radiator with the cap off and let the engine warm up in the driveway
Thermostat should open and then coolant flows thru radiator.
Dropping guage to bottom?- that may be guage or sendor issue, as outside temp wont make the car run THAT cold!!
Thread Starter
Porkchop Sandwiches!
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 509
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
Well, the gauge didnt just drop it crept down. When i got off the highway it started to rise back up to a normal level.
Ill check the time, I know my radiator circuit is working fine, the hoses the fluid is flowing, and its not losing any coolant... I know the engine is actually running too cold because the cabin heater was blowing barely luke warm air while i was on the highway and then when I got off it starting working fine...
Ill check the time, I know my radiator circuit is working fine, the hoses the fluid is flowing, and its not losing any coolant... I know the engine is actually running too cold because the cabin heater was blowing barely luke warm air while i was on the highway and then when I got off it starting working fine...
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open, happened to me on a diff car and had the same symptoms. Its only a $10 part and its not unlikely that it was damaged when the car overheated.
Thread Starter
Porkchop Sandwiches!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
Originally Posted by LostSol_FoundTL
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open, happened to me on a diff car and had the same symptoms. Its only a $10 part and its not unlikely that it was damaged when the car overheated.
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Thread Starter
Porkchop Sandwiches!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
5+ years, 70k miles at the moment. For the past few months I've been running prestone green crap, cuz I didnt know that the honda stuff is different. I have no idea what the past owner used, hopefully they knew what they were doing.
Your car should not have required any coolant at this point in its life
What do you mean the last owner was using, and you have been using coolant 2 months...
Has this been an ongoing issue and we are coming in at the mid point of the story?
I run prestone in mine right now- because I has some when I went to change it based on more than 5 years old.
What do you mean the last owner was using, and you have been using coolant 2 months...
Has this been an ongoing issue and we are coming in at the mid point of the story?
I run prestone in mine right now- because I has some when I went to change it based on more than 5 years old.
Thread Starter
Porkchop Sandwiches!
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
Well, I bought this car about 4 months ago. After some time I decided to do a radiator flush, the shop filled it up with prestone. After doing some reading on the forum, I found out that I shouldnt use anything but Acura/Honda type 2 coolant cuz the other stuff will eat away at the seals of the water pump and gaskets.
When the lower radiator hose burst a few days ago, all the coolant had leaked out, so when I got the hose replaced I had it filled up with the honda coolant.
I havent had any other problems other than one day my upper radiator hose comming loose for some reason while I saw driving, I reseated it and I havent had any issues since.
When the lower radiator hose burst a few days ago, all the coolant had leaked out, so when I got the hose replaced I had it filled up with the honda coolant.
I havent had any other problems other than one day my upper radiator hose comming loose for some reason while I saw driving, I reseated it and I havent had any issues since.
wow I had not heard that one about the seals and such- may be another urban myth- someone call those guys on TV!
Loose hose and a burst hose- this car has 70 k miles? really?
Replace all the coolant hoses you can- feel each small one as well as the main 2
If hose is soft spongy or bulging- you have a problem
Loose hose and a burst hose- this car has 70 k miles? really?
Replace all the coolant hoses you can- feel each small one as well as the main 2
If hose is soft spongy or bulging- you have a problem
Thread Starter
Porkchop Sandwiches!
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From: Brooklyn / Stony Brook / Washington DC
From http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/HondaCoolant.html
I got this from the interwebs, altough ive seen posts about this on AZ as well.
Coolant Information
David Kucharczyk <ssr@netcom.com>
This information was forwarded to me via several parties. Provided for your information.
Subject: Honda Anti-Freeze
Recently, several people have questioned whether the coolant (anti-freeze) sold by Honda and Acura dealers is different from the popular mass-market brands.
Honda has sent the information attached below to its dealers. While you might not expect the source to be exactly unbiased, it does provide technical information and justification for differences in their formula.
<senders address deleted>
Genuine Honda Coolant is the Only Way to Go -------------------------------------------
Increasingly severe operating conditions and the advent of lower maintenance requirements have resulted in significant changes in the variety and the concentration of additives used in engine coolant. Also, the continual improvements in engine and vehicle design have challenged coolant suppliers to design products that perform well in a more demanding environment.
To meet these needs, Honda engineers have developed a superior, high-quality coolant that has several advantages over the competition.
Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the abrasive silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:
- Silicates bond to the surface of the water pump seal and act as an abrasive, causing considerable seal erosion and coolant leakage. In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused early leakage. This leakage increased dramatically until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost. In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.
Chart here, entitled "Coolant Leakage from Water Pump Seal", showing Leaked Coolant Volume in ml as follows for each test duration in Hours:
24 hrs: Honda Coolant 0, Typical Silicated Coolant 21 48 hrs: Honda Coolant 1, Typical Silicated Coolant 36 72 hrs: Honda Coolant 2, Typical Silicated Coolant 47 96 hrs: Honda Coolant 2, Typical Silicated Coolant 55 120 hrs: Honda Coolant 2.5, Typical Silicated Coolant 56 144 hrs: Honda Coolant 3.5, Typical Silicated Coolant 57 168 hrs: Honda Coolant 4, Typical Silicated Coolant 58.8 192 hrs: Honda Coolant 6, Typical Silicated Coolant 63 200 hrs: Honda Coolant 6, Typical Silicated Coolant 64
- Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating.
- Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head.
- Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.
Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested.
In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:
- No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.
(graphs here, showing roughness across the surface, with A a very wiggly line, and B a very smooth line)
- No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.
- Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.
- Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).
(note from XXX - I think I can guess whether the last paragraph, provided below, was written by the engineers or by the marketers...)
You can find less expensive coolants on the market, but now you can see why genuine Honda coolant is the only coolant approved for Honda and Acura vehicles (it MUST be used for warranty repairs). Honda's non-silicate formula delivers added protection not offered by 95 percent of other brands. Since our customers expect lower maintenance, you're doing them an injustice if you use any other coolant.
David Kucharczyk <ssr@netcom.com>
This information was forwarded to me via several parties. Provided for your information.
Subject: Honda Anti-Freeze
Recently, several people have questioned whether the coolant (anti-freeze) sold by Honda and Acura dealers is different from the popular mass-market brands.
Honda has sent the information attached below to its dealers. While you might not expect the source to be exactly unbiased, it does provide technical information and justification for differences in their formula.
<senders address deleted>
Genuine Honda Coolant is the Only Way to Go -------------------------------------------
Increasingly severe operating conditions and the advent of lower maintenance requirements have resulted in significant changes in the variety and the concentration of additives used in engine coolant. Also, the continual improvements in engine and vehicle design have challenged coolant suppliers to design products that perform well in a more demanding environment.
To meet these needs, Honda engineers have developed a superior, high-quality coolant that has several advantages over the competition.
Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the abrasive silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:
- Silicates bond to the surface of the water pump seal and act as an abrasive, causing considerable seal erosion and coolant leakage. In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused early leakage. This leakage increased dramatically until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost. In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.
Chart here, entitled "Coolant Leakage from Water Pump Seal", showing Leaked Coolant Volume in ml as follows for each test duration in Hours:
24 hrs: Honda Coolant 0, Typical Silicated Coolant 21 48 hrs: Honda Coolant 1, Typical Silicated Coolant 36 72 hrs: Honda Coolant 2, Typical Silicated Coolant 47 96 hrs: Honda Coolant 2, Typical Silicated Coolant 55 120 hrs: Honda Coolant 2.5, Typical Silicated Coolant 56 144 hrs: Honda Coolant 3.5, Typical Silicated Coolant 57 168 hrs: Honda Coolant 4, Typical Silicated Coolant 58.8 192 hrs: Honda Coolant 6, Typical Silicated Coolant 63 200 hrs: Honda Coolant 6, Typical Silicated Coolant 64
- Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating.
- Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head.
- Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.
Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested.
In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:
- No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.
(graphs here, showing roughness across the surface, with A a very wiggly line, and B a very smooth line)
- No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.
- Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.
- Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).
(note from XXX - I think I can guess whether the last paragraph, provided below, was written by the engineers or by the marketers...)
You can find less expensive coolants on the market, but now you can see why genuine Honda coolant is the only coolant approved for Honda and Acura vehicles (it MUST be used for warranty repairs). Honda's non-silicate formula delivers added protection not offered by 95 percent of other brands. Since our customers expect lower maintenance, you're doing them an injustice if you use any other coolant.
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