chris03tl

Does anyone know if the positive battery cable for 2001-02 (part number 32410-SOK-A10) can sub for the same part for a 2003 (part number 32410-SOK-A30)?

Need to replace the one in our TL but wanted to see if I could expand the search by looking for multiple part numbers instead of a single one.

Looking at the parts diagrams they LOOK the same but I know that cant be taken as truth.

Thanks.

-Chris

Skirmich

Any specific reason why don't just upgrade the terminal? I'm guessing you wanna change it because the OEM Terminal is very old/rusty. But you can always chop the OEM terminal and retrofit a Universal.

3.2TLc

Yeah, it should work.
But, consider fabricating your own as Skirmich suggested.

Skirmich

^ Indeed! And I guess its cheaper than buying the whole Positive Cable Harness.


My OEM Positive Cable is Beneath the Red 4 AWG Wire in this pic (The 4 AWG Wire replaced the OEM Starter Wire):

Another look:

chris03tl

Thanks for the replies.

In my case, the cables themselves have corrosion in and/or on them.

I already replaced the clamp last year and the clamp itself no longer corrodes but the cables still have it. We're having occasional starting issues in the cold weather, so I was figuring a new battery is in order and thats when I noticed the corrosion.

I wasnt sure if the lengths of cable in the harness (to starter, back to fuse panel) were easily replaceable or not so I just wanted to get an OEM harness and be done with it. I dont think there is enough slack in the original harness to cut the corroded portions off.

Thanks again.

-Chris

Skirmich

^ You will get better starts it you replace the Starter Wire with a bigger one..
I found at least in my case a big improvement over stock.


The other wire basically is the feed from the alternator, If you don't run any sound system stock is fine.

chris03tl

Tbh the starting issues are more of a crank longer then fire but run rough for a bit.

The first time it happened the ecu code pointed to a coolant temp sensor issue. But coupled with an aging battery and corroded cable, I was thinking handling the battery issues first would be prudent (plus winter is coming)

Had another rough start this morning after another cold night... cranks OK just took a bit to fire and ran rough for about 10 seconds

Skirmich

Yeah very cold starts are hard on the battery. Perhaps the battery is old enough to be on its way out? I found that Optima Red was better for cold starts than my current Yellow Top.

chris03tl

Yeah the battery is old enough to need replacing (4+ years). I just figured while I had everything disconnected I could replace the cable while I was at it. I *hate* reprogramming the stupid radio, because it seemingly never takes the code easily.

Also found a good deal on a new OEM battery cable, so I figured WTH do it all at once.

01tl4tl

the cables go bad inside the cover and reduce the electricity going to the desired part

If you have large amounts of constantly re-growing blue crud on terminals-
your battery is shot AND it needs cables

New NEG cable never hurt either!!! ground is critical in vehicles operation and getting good readings from all the sensors to the ECU

TIP: unplug radio antenna connection behind radio- that seems to help some units take the code better
OR
go to underground garage so radio signal is blocked and attempt regular input of code

SuperGreg

In regard to corrosion on the terminals, it can just mean the battery has a leak near the terminal, mine has been doing that for years. A leak can develop in between the metal terminal and the case of the battery. I put some battery gel on the contacts to prevent the corrosion and it's been fine since then.

01tl4tl

the installer at batteries plus explained most batts have the vents on the top- where outgassing is attracted to the connectors and turns to that blue acid- not good
(their brand vents on the side and should not have same issue)

ongoing growth that reappears after cleanings points to massive outgassing = loss of fluid that conducts electricity inside battery is going away!
that batt is headed for the recycle pile!!! (personal experience)

I agree with using a batt terminal protector product to cover the terminals in a sealing manner- to keep those gasses away
Vaseline works- or see parts store counter for little package

chris03tl

After the original terminal connector was corroded to the point where I couldnt loosen the clamp, I cut it off and replaced with a universal. At the same time I added those felt-type washers that go under the clamps and since then no new corrosion has occurred. The only white powdery stuff left is what had made its way onto/into the positive cables coming into the clamp.

Going to pick up a new battery today, and possibly a universal "splice" so I can cut the original cables back a few inches and butt connect them to the splice.

FYI - Costco's battery selection isnt what it used to be. Looks like they are now selling Interstate batteries directly, and have fewer group size choices. Less warranty options too....they all have a 42 month full replacement and no pro-rated months.