beachyfun

I recently replaced the front and rear brakes on my '99 TL 3.2. The brakes still are mushy and I have to push fairly far down on the peddle to stop the car. I've been advised it's a modulation problem (and apparently very common with Acuras). It's been suggested to me that I replace the front and rear rubber brake lines with steel braided ones. Even the dealer admitted this should significantly improve my braking performance, but they wanted $510 to do the front and rears with Brembos which seemed quite outrageous. Here are my questions:

---Has anyone tried using steel braided lines, and if so, did you notice a significant improvement in braking performance and peddle feel?

---Which brand to you recommend? (is there a significant difference in brands like Brembo, Russell etc.)

--- Does anyone know of a repair facility in the Redondo Beach, CA area that is reasonably-priced, and does excellent, reliable brake/mechanical work?

Thanks for any suggestions!

samkws

just get the comptechs, they costs 150 dollars for all 4 i believe

or u can ask excelerate, he has them for sale

try to do the brake fluid bleed and see if it helps, i think u got too many bubbles in the brake lines

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

1. Bleed the lines.
2. Check for leaks.
3. Adjust brake booster rod.

Do it in that order. If you STILL don't like the way it feels, THEN you should get the braided lines. It's kind of stupid to just simply upgrade to braided lines, when you are not sure where the problem is. For all you know, you might just need to bleed the brake lines. That will cost you like 5 bucks for a bottle of brake fluid, compared to hundreds to get new lines.

fla-tls

Yeah - sounds like air in the system (it doesn't take much).

Bxscig

I say bleed the brakes first, like flushing all or most of the old fluid out. I kept pumping until I had used about 1.5 bottles of honda brake fluid.

It helped a lot although it isnt like brand new but it sure is pretty damn good.

JTRacer

What do you mean by just replaced brakes. Was it pads, rotors, calipers? If the brake system was never bled properly then no matter what you'll always have "spongy or soft" brake pdeal. S.S. teflon lined brakelines will improve braking just by the fact that they don't expand under pressure. You'll notice the differance when really leaning on the brakes during a panic stop or heavy braking. 0.040" wall teflon SS braided hose will take 10k PSI easy. Doubt you'll see that pressure in your system. Check the manufacture if they use 0.030" wall or 0.040" wall teflon hose. Go with 0.040". Brake pad friction material will change how the pedal feels also. Too hard a compund will result in increased pedal pressures until optimum temp is reached in pad, rotors. Choose correct material for type of driving. Incorrect brake fluid for type of braking could be too low boiling temp creating "air bubbles" in system from boiling. Motul, Castrol SRF etc is a good quality fluid.

beachyfun

I definitely need/want to bleed the brake lines as I don't think the mechanic did it when he replaced the pads and turned the rotors. A friend saw an online special for Russell's steel braided lines for $124 (set of 4). Any idea how those compare to comptechs? And who is "excelerate"?

beachyfun

I don't think the mechanic did #1 when he replaced the pads and turned the rotors. I would have hoped he did #2, but since it's doubtful he did #1, who knows for sure (hence my hope that someone might know a good mechanic out here). Can you elaborate at bit more on suggestion #3? That's that the first time I've heard that suggestion. Thanks!

JTRacer

For best braking performance replace/flush brake fluid any time it is dark. Older fluid has a lower boiling temp resulting "spongy/mushy" pedal from vapor/air in brake system.
Russel, Goodridge, Earl's make their own lines. I am not familar with Comptechs lines. They might make their own. My guess is that they have someone build to there specs. I now Earl's pressure tests every line to 4000psi and are DOT. Not sure about the others.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

When you are bleeding the lines, you will most likely find out if you have a leak or not. For instance, my friend had a leak at the rear driver side caliper, and it would constantly bleed bubbles, whereas the other 3 calipers were bleeding only brake fluid.

As for no.3, it's sort of a last resort. In the brake booster (without this, you're gonna have to pump the hell out of the pedal to brake), there's a rod that adjusts the amount of pressure delivered to the master cylinder, thus to the brakes. It does just that -- it boosts the brake pressure from the pedal.

If the rod is adjusted wrong, then there could be too much or too little pressure. I've had this happen in my car before. But I think bleeding the lines should do the trick in your case.

Good luck.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

Hence the reason they list "dry" boiling point and "wet" boiling point.

And I believe Comptech outsources to Goodridge, if I remember correctly.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Actually if you can wait a couple weeks I have 5 sets of Goodridge Stainless Steel brake lines coming for the CL/TL. They will be about $110 shipped. And I am Excelerate, an Official Vendor for Acurazine.