SleekSilverTL

99 Acura tl w/ nav.

I performed the Seafoam (16oz) last night according to DIY. Unfortunately the cars CEL stayed on after HOT runs for 30-40 minutes. Additionally drove the car on freeway for about 30 minutes. Light stayed on so I pulled the clock fuse from the passenger side fuse box. Thereafter the CEL disappeared.

This afternoon when I went to go drive the car, the car starts, but now both the CEL and TCS lights are on. I put the Car in Drive and as soon as the RPM's hit 1500 the car stalls. Please help, I am scared I hope this isn't a costly repair.

I have no modifications or anything, stock car.

SleekSilverTL

Additional information.....

I washed my car this morning, along with I also washed the engine bay. could this have caused any serious problems?

piggylover1985

Can you still restart the car at all after it stalled ? You didn't get to crazy with the hose on alternator and electrical components did you ?

01tl4tl

yeah you got some electrical stuff wet and are trying to blame seafoam

Cant understand how you got CEL on hot drive- and you followed the directions that use the master vac port- the one with a metal nipple coming from the manifold- you removed the hose from it?? at the TB- across from the throttle springs?

The cel is usually from crud on the O2 sensor and it burns off
30 minute hot drive--what did you do during that time? 5-10 minutes is plenty
Could have overtemped the cat and caused a cel from that

spray everything you can see in the engine bay with wd40 or other water displacement product--pull clock fuse- test drive

SleekSilverTL

I can restart the car after it stalls. I am assuming that the alternator is wet. I had it covered with foil but I am sure some water still got into it.

Checked all the fuses, everything is good. I had the battery disconnected at the time of the wash, and the battery cables covered as well.

01tl04tl: Not trying to blame one or the other, i just wanted the most help I could get so I put all the variables on the table when I opened the thread. I checked most of all the exposed electrical connections, pulled the connectors, and all dry. Cleaned the battery terminals and cables, Yet the problem persists.

Is the alternator screwed or will it be okay once it dries? (assuming that is the issue

piggylover1985

My 87 Acura Integra was doing something like that. I had the engine running for a while and the heat from the engine dried out the water, the next day everything was ok, like nothing ever happened. Hope this will be the case for you. Good luck

01tl4tl

Im just trying to understand HOW/Where you applied seafoam- and to the correct place or that will cause a series of problems

Many people blame seafoam when they didnt follow instructions
Im concerned with the extended hot drive- and possible cat overheat giving the CEL,,
thats all- looking for the problem

If you get CEL now- take it to a parts store for free code reading (except Ca)

01tl4tl

wd the wires around the throttle- IACV system
WD actually means Water Dispersant- formula test #40

next time ck the engine cleaning DIY- saran wrap or ziplock bags around electrics and prespray them with wd to avoid probs- foil tears easily

I used to wash bmw motors before service- those things always got water in somewhere- had to carry an air tank to dry it out near the plugs!!
Maybe you got water into a coil or 3--more things to spray!

for the TL, I use Gunk and simple green- with gentle water rinse on mist setting, blow excess water off with leaf blower and compressed air where needed

SleekSilverTL

I applied the Seafoam through he nipple off the manifold, made sure I took time to induce it and for the hot drive I made about 8-10 20-80 mile runs, but took a while to do all those hence I stated 30 minutes because I had to wait for traffic and such.

WD 40 is it okay to spray around the plugs? I pulled the coils as you suggested, and there is little water around the coils. I tried to wick as much as possible using papertowels since I don't have air compressor to spray air over it.

01tl4tl

ahhh part of the problem has finally been revealed- seafoam technique
Did you do a warm up drive before -15 minutes on freeway with 5 minutes of 4000 rpm to get things hot hot inside
Without heat seafoam doesnt really work

Afterdrive- having waited 10 to 15 minutes after foam completed
you wait till engine stable as more gas enters system- a few minutes--
then 2000 rpm drive on low gear till it will rev easily to 4000 after a few minutes-
THEN go for a solid 4000 rpm run for 5 to 10 minutes
A few blow out runs from 4000 to 5000 is good to do--NO full redline

No need for any 20 to 80 full throttle runs- thats RB brake bedding speeds in reverse~

so some of your probs may be a still loaded up O2 sensor-= go for a freeway drive with 5-10 minutes of 4000 rpm--use a lower gear so you are not going 100!!
I dont think the cop will be cool with that~

and get that other stuff dry as I pm'd you about

01tl4tl

WD is fine everywhere we are talking about--
well not as an engine cleaner of course
but will remove road tar from paint!!

SleekSilverTL

I did do a warmup drive on the freeway but didn't do the 4000rpm part, I drove around for about 20 minutes at 70mph, not to sure about the rpms. Although after your input, I am quit sure I didn't have a proper seafoam technique...

should i re-attempt once I get the car from stalling under load?

I went ahead and sprayed wd-40 on all the visible connectors I hope that helps. I disconnected all of the coils and put them aside and blew compressed air in the wells. I think I have them pretty dry but I will wait another day or so before I attempt to put things back together just to be sure I give it enough time to air dry.

should I replace my plugs, and how likely is it that my coils are ruined?

01tl4tl

lets hope for the best once everything is dry

It wont hurt to pull a plug or 2 and see how they are- I would do that now- and compare after you refoam
If more than 60k milkes on the plugs, they are worn and ready- if 100+ its past ready! and exactly the scenario with foam and no real blow out drive on old plugs--that allows the plugs to get loaded up and wont fire very well--
D5 cruising at 70 doesnt count-- use a gear that allows 4000 rpm and stay in speed limit
10 minutes of that wont hurt your trans~
6 new NGK Iridium IX will fix you right up if they are toast

Your misunderstanding the seafoam technique for blow out drive was probably a contributor..it got liquified crud but didnt get blown out
then crud dries on whatever surface and car runs poorly--on pistons and worse- the plugs..how old are those plugs anyway?

you and all noobs should repeat foam to gas (can to half tank)
and manifold vac port after a month/1000-2000 miles

there is always some leftover crud from 1st time-- as you learn with practice how to administer better
consult www.seafoamsales.com- tech section has a couple of ways you can try -to get it extra clean for your effort including a 2000 rpm blast--that does work - i have safely used in on several cars including the TL--get stuff loosened up first with sip sip - then some at higher rpm and more product in a blaster method- guaranteed to make a lot of smoke that way- do only in safe well vented area !!!! area with lots of wind is what vented means for this--
and point the nose into the wind- or you will eat smoke

SleekSilverTL

Update: I sprayed all all the Sparkplugs with WD 40, wicked up the excess assuming some was water. Sprayed compressed air in the wells and cleaned everything out. Replaced all of the plugs with NGK IX plugs. Put everything back together. Reset the ECU by pulling Fuse 13 (clock fuse) from passenger fuse box. Fired up the car, and i am stll haveing the exact same issue.

The CEL and TCS are both present. The car will idle for 5-10 minutes and automatcially shut off. The engine runs smooth, but when I put it into gear, it feels like the car is fighting to stay alive.

One odd thing I've noticed is that the car usually shuts off as soon as the radiator fans either turn on or about to turn on.

Could my alternator belt be slipping? Something wrong with the MAF? Throttle position sensor... ahhhh I wish I had a code reader. I'll let the car dry for a few more days see if it makes any difference. If not I'll get replacement primary O2 sensor and attempt to switch it outmyself... might be siezed on there.

Any help would be appreciated

01tl4tl

yes all of those things
If you live anywhere but Ca you get free code readings at parts stores
The 02 sensor does not seem likely
Have the battery tested- if low voltage in it the whole system freaks out- none of the sensors get correct voltage and will give false reading

is the alt belt tensioner working?- you can watch the belt and tensioner move as you rev with hood open and watching

Part of the battery test will include alt and starter draw test- its all free testing at parts stores

Do that before guessing on expensive parts
Sure a new O2 will make the car run better- but is it the source of your problem
How did the plugs look- grey or black or what? all dry or any wet looking?

If you turn off all the extra electrical load- radio- heater- lights etc- does it effect how long before the car dies?

myisanog

or u can be lazy like me and chekc the CEL the ghetto way .. with one of the relays under the passenger side and speaker wires ..

01tl4tl

that would be a helpful post if it contained any sort of directions or link~

myisanog

1) Get a CEL


2) On the passener side, remove the kick panel at the floor.
Behind it, is your ecu and a jumper plug.


3) Locate the jumper plug (Civic 92-95 is grey, 96-00 its blue). Its a 2 pin plug.
(I am not sure if the connector is in the same location for all hondas..I assume so - I dont know all the connector colors...)


For EK, there is 1 brown wire and 1 black wire

For EG, there is 1 tan wire and 1 green


4) WITH THE CAR OFF, insert either a 2pin connector clip, or loop a thin enough piece of wire into both holes on the connector.

5) Back in the driver's seat, turn the key to the 'ON' position. The CEL light will come on at startup, like normal, but it will then begin to flash.
**By counting the number of flashes, you can decipher the CEL #.
SHORT flashes are single digits (1/2 second)
LONG flashes are 10's (1 second)

-----CEL # List-----
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor - Cooling System
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

myisanog

i dont know what color the plug is for the 2g tl . for my 1g it is blue

SleekSilverTL

Update: Had the car towed to the dealer. Ran Diagnostics, and the codes that they pulled were P1361 and P1366. Both for TDC sensors. Didn't show any other codes so the Service rep is hoping that this will fix the problem.

The second thing the Rep told me was that if this doesn't work, it might be a PCM sensor for the transmision. thats a 1000 dollar part.. ahhh I am praying the issue is resolved with the TDC sensor.

UBERTL

The TDC sensor is the prob. My TL does the exact same thing. I sprayed the engine with water to clean it off (god what a bunch of dumb fucks we are) and it stalls on me the way you discribe it. i ran diagnostics and thats what it came up with. Now i just need help with taking my timing belt off to get to it!

SleekSilverTL

I am not sure how to go about replacing the sensor. I used the search feature and there are a few other people that have had similar problems after getting water in the engine bay. The car is at the dealership, they are going to replace the sensors today. I hope that fixes the problems. Its expensive $300+ to replace it + diagnositics fee. ahhhhhhhhh

I will keep the thread updated on the status.

SleekSilverTL

Source: acuraoemparts.com

#15 is the TDC Sensor for 99 Acura TL

UBERTL

WTF I went to the dealer and they want to charge me $1000 to fix it! what state do you live in

SleekSilverTL

The repairs didn't work... anyone have any other suggestions?

01tl4tl

are they refunding the diagnostic and parts plus labor for the failed diagnosis?

and their next best guess is the power control module? I would search auto recycle yards for that

go meet in person with the service MANAGER- make sure they are involved with this one since its a blown diagnostic

ask SM to ck the TSBs for similar problem- (tech service bulletins are issued by dealers for other dealers when solution found on trick problems)
somewhere in the dealer network this problem has been cured!

SleekSilverTL

Car runs like a dream. Got the PCM replaced, and it did the trick. whew! what an expensive repair!

piggylover1985

Or more like "what an expensive car wash".

yodin

code reads INTERMITTENT...you have water in the wire connector, go WD40 on ALL connectors.
No need to go to the TDC sensor at all.