555acuratl

i recently bought this always been a acura guy ..had a 95 legend before gave me till 289k miles until this old witch totalled it ...enough of my talk ... i bought this 99 acura tl knowing it has a bad transmission and with 156k miles ... got the transmission rebuilt for $1700 with 1 year warranty...now the car shakes alot ..i seaformed the car , chnaged all the 6 coil packs along with NGK spark plugs ...i still have multiple misfires....the car is shaking while its on park..went to autozone to get the codes and the codes are..
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
po302 cylinder 2 misfire detected
PO303 CYLINDER 3 MISFIRE DETECTED
PO304 CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE DETECTED
PO305 CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE DETECTED
PO306 CYLINDER 6 MISFIRE DETECTED
PO401 EGR FLOW INSUFFICIENT
PO300 RANDOM/MULTIPLE CYLINDERS MISFIRES DTECTED
P1399 MANUFACTURER CONTROL IGNITION SYSTEM OR MISFIRE

sorry about the caps...the guy at the autozone told me im pretty much screwed and go to the dealer....which im avoiding..cause they will give me an crazy estimate....i change the spark plugs and the coil packs myself..all of them..always checking up on the forum and thats how i learned about seaforming...GUYS CAN YOU PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME.???[FONT=Arial Black]PLEASE HELP!!!!

eyesnake02

DId all this happen before u changed all the plugs? or after?

555acuratl

no this was all happenening even before i changed the sparks plugs and the coil packs, but after the coil pack replacment acceleration improved a little...not big of a difference..

erdoc48

You might be stuck going to the dealer- it doesn't make any sense to keep replacing parts that are not likely causing the problem.

Gfaze

I still think it's one of your coils, one that's either defective or not making proper contact with the spark plug. One bad coil can cause the multiple misfire codes. Grab one of your old coils and start checking one by one. Pull one of the coils out and put in your old one. Start the car and see what happens. If it's still doing the same thing, turn it off, pull out that coil and move it to the next cylinder and keep doing it until you find the bad one. Good luck!

DEPTLS

iTrader: (6)

CLICK HERE LOOK FOR COIL PLUGS


and get that egr valve cleaned!!!!!!!!!!! ASAP!!!!!!!

fsttyms1

I would start by cleaning the EGR and reseting the ECU

http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-004.PDF

CCETTI

this same thing happend to my 99tl i brought it to the dealer and they said i needed new sparkplugs and coilpacks it was not cheap but the dealer fixed it o ye and if your driving it with miss fires you might trow out a motor mount or damage the car so stop driving it get it towed to the dealer

555acuratl

after putting in so much time and effort im thinking of buying a new engine from ebay with less miles , adding some new headers , intake and new timing belt....and taking this engine out n selling it on ebay....what do you guys think is it worth it. ? this guy quoted me $400 the engine has approx 80000 miles....

Razzi

if you got enough mechanical knowledge to pull it off, it wont hurt for the 400 dollar block. if it's been knocking since you got it, then the last 156k miles on the car probably wasnt treated very well, god knows what else is wrong with that thing

etxxz

DID YOU FIND THE SOURCE? i might be in the same boat....made a thread about it recently and ended up cleaning the EGR and intake manifold and nothing. spark plugs are fine but i have no scan tool...i'm starting to believe on the coil packs.

any way to check these? they are easy to access. i used to check spark plug wires in my bimmer by simply unplugging one and putting it near the block, if it arcs beautifly its good....idk if i want to try this with my acura.

Gfaze

if you're getting the cylinder misfire codes, it's most likely a defective coil pack, not packs. Buy one new coil pack and start by pulling out one coil out of your car and installing the new coil in it's place. Start the car, does it still run rough? If no, you are now done and can be on your merry way. If it's still running rough, that's not the bad one. Turn the car off and pull the new one back out, put your old one back in and move on to the next coil. Repeat the procedure until you find the bad one.

etxxz

makes sense from a troubleshooting standpoint. will do so thanks!

etxxz

Did the coilpack on all 6 cylinders with no change. changed spark plugs and no change....what other possibility is there?

there's no vacuum leaks and the shaking only occurs at idle....after 900rpm its smooth as butter. Scanner threw no codes either o.O

fsttyms1

Did you take the new coil pack to each cyl and reset the ECU between each one to see if the light comes back on?

Things it could be, ECU, vac leak, motor (check compression)

etxxz

Chris, there is no engine light.

I took the coil pack to every cylinder showing no change whatsoever. Vac leak should be throwing a code and compression idk 113k? i'll give the vac leak another run this time with a little propane rig that i have.

if no change, i'll do a compression test this weekend with patience..the engine shakes a lot less with the a/c off or out of gear (P->N) maybe that hints something you know that i don't.

Engine mounts all check : /

fsttyms1

Are you sure its not a motor mount causing the motor to shake? Does the motor run smooth while accelerating/decelerating? Cruising?

01tl4tl

dirty IAC? egr port plugged solid? got the correct NGKs in in?
Motor mounts tested with 2 person method- 1 watches- other stands on brake and uses gas pedal etc.?
a 99- look under the car- at the front and rear motor mounts for wierd fluid leakage
Make sure to do a dry and wet compression test-

when I think transmission engagement causes vibration, its engine compression or trans drag.....
which will make you feel better about the whole failure?

01tl4tl

vac line used for seafoam still fits tight??- not pulled off the rear of the manifold?

NOTE- the old seafoam method of vac line, on driver side fender area- thats not any good~ turns out it only reached 3 cylinders

New method uses direct vac port- 20+ inches vac at idle and is locatated right at the throttle body assembly

etxxz

^^ hehe yes i saw the thread as for the line, it is tight.
mounts done roughtly 15k ago ~ 93k they look new still. motor is real smooth while cruising. infact, above 800rpm on neutral its smooth again.
i cleaned the intake mani and EGR ports a month ago....and the comp test i guess i'll do it this weekend. i'll keep this in mind.

vibration due to low comp just doesnt add up on this engine. transmission could be a different story but its still smooth as butter...i do havea reverse issue with it (jerks when cold), it got replaced at 93k for this same reason along with the engine/tranny mounts under warranty. i've already talked to my dealer about bringing it back

as for the failure. neither i'm going to do a little reading but thanks for help don't go anywhere this weekend!

fsttyms1

Where is the car idling? Is it the 750 where it should be?

etxxz

the needle seems to, yes. vafc and obdii scanner read 687-692's even with a/c on, in gear etc. It would seem the problem is not a vacuum leak as i re-checked last night after doing some tlc on the car. ICV is doing its thing...

fsttyms1

So exactly what is your symptom

etxxz

the engine is shaking and vibrating so bad that the steering wheel, keys, center console etc rattle like crazy. Its like a back massage....so bad that it even creates in-cabin resonance noise....gets worse with a/c and in gear. After 900-1000rpm, its all smooth and quiet minus the header resonance at 2100-2200rpm.

fsttyms1

It shakes that bad and you dont have any CEL's?? Weird. Stock mounts and not urethane? Does it do it in gear or in park or both? With the hood open can you see the motor shaking? Does the motor sound like its missing or misfiring?

etxxz

That is exactly what it feels like. Solid engine mounts...but that is not the case, i have stock OEM acura mounts. Vibrates even in park lightly, does resonate inside and is felt throught the keys and steering wheel. gets much much worse in gear and grows with the a/c.

The exhaust sounds nice and even so its not missing. misfiring? haven't come across that problem i don't know what to listen for. that usually gives a CEL.

No CEL, there is a maintenance light but its all been done minus the brake fluid.

Engine valve cover vibrates but i can't visuall tell that the engine is vibrating more than normal...and that is what gets me too.

I'll post a vid tonight, i might have time for that compression check.

fsttyms1

So does it do it more in gear with foot on the brake, say at a stop light? and less in park?

Gee-TR

check the wires for damage and shorts, could be the ecu, check for water in connections, make sure the coil plugs are in the right place"the right cyliinder", thats all I can think of right now, good luck

TLer trash

I went back and reread your original post. I think you HAD a misfire which you cured. It sounds to me like you are dealing with a vibration now. With the misfire problem you had, I don't know if you'd be able to tell, but was this coincidental with the trans replacement? If it was some possibilities might be... motor mounts not neutralized [like they were tightened in a bound up position as opposed to a relaxed position], part of the exhaust grounding on the body, any other item that might have been pushed or pried out of the way to remove or install the trans, or an out of balance torque convertor. Good luck!

etxxz

^^ actually that was never cured, this is the same problem and maybe worse. It did start about 10k after the tranny replacement so i've had this for a good 7k! The exhaust is not touching anything though, its been vibrating so since the day i put headers in this car ~ 30-40k ago.

I'll do a full inspection on the mounts along the comp test tomorow and see how that goes. we'll take it from there. Thanks you guys have a few beers tonight you deserve them!
correct
all check here

etxxz

Wellll....i took it to acura and they found the problem. Its the rear engine mount (i could have sworn it was good...guess not) and coilpack on cyl 2... and my condenser fan is not working so that too. They quoted like 20000044345456456 billion dollars so i'll just do the work myself.

thanks and will report later d: have a good weekend all its beautiful here i'm going to the beach!!

etxxz

Here's the reason. thanks guys i was unable to find the broken mount. had no idea about the mount's oil. TY



smoothness once again. later