CJITTY

Team TL,

I had an itch to be creative and wanted to mount my amp in a way that didn't require me to drill new holes into my car, yet keep air circulating around and keep it up out of the way. Also, if I need to get my sub out, I just need to remove the pos and neg connections and I'm done. Lucky for me, I have factory navigation! Keep reading, this will make sense!

The case/bracket that holds the DVD ROM unit has four holes in the bottom already. So, went to Home Depot and got some #10 (1/2") screws, 8 two inch "L" brackets and two 4" straight brackets. All of these items are available at the Home Depot where they have the door parts and accessories, like hinges and stuff.

Ok, so basically I connect two L brackets into a "U" shape that made the U-shape about 3" wide. My amp is only 2" high, so perfect fit! I made four of those, one for each corner of the amp. By the way, my amp is about 10" deep and 10" wide. It's a Profile AP600.

Since the Navigation case is only about 7" deep and my amp is 10" deep, I had to use the 4" straight brackets to extend long enough to bolt up the back side of the amp.

To get the screws down through the Navi case, I unbolted the three 10mm bolts that hold the navi unit up. Disconnected the four plugs and then removed the two screws on each side of the navi case. The DVD player just slides right out. That allowed me to mount the L brackets to the outside case with great ease!

As you'll see in the pics, it's pretty straight forward and the amp is mounted very securely and it does not move!! It is solid bolted up to that case since the three 10mm bolts are anchored into the frame of the trunk!

Let me know your thoughts! Not sure if this has been attempted before. Here are the pics. I am getting some conduit to hide the wires, but you get the idea!

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

You Fucking Smart Ass.

Malayalee King

iTrader: (1)

good idea. i screwed my amp to the back of my box so ic an just rip everything out if i ever (never) take my subs out.

CJITTY

Yeah, I was gonna do that at first but I figured I would have to disconnect more wires to get the box out (ground, remote, power, rca's etc) My amp connections are bare wire leads, so the less I gotta mess with them, the better.

timberland73

iTrader: (1)

laidback93

I like it. I'm sure you'll get better airflow and cooling that way.


If I only had money for the aftermarket system I want...

03 TL TypeS

nice idea

AcuraDreamin

nice work Chris, cant wait to check that at the meet, i wonder if it can be done w/o the navi

CJITTY

Thanks Igor, yeah you could do that but it would require drilling most likely. You can get real creative with L brackets if you do some measuring. There are points to mount it, you'll just have to get longer brackets and your amp shouldn't be really heavy. Mine is really light, so that's why I did it that way. No problems yet.

I left my car idling for a long time the other day and of course my VSA light is on again...can't remember what I did to reset it last time it did that.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

nice thinkin man, never would of thought of that, but i have a question for u, im tryin to hook up my own system but i have the stock radio, does it have the 2 jacks in the back to connect my amp? and if it does how do i get the radio out? thx for any info u can give me

illjuan3

i would do that but then my two 15' wouldnt fit in the trunk

mrmako

That's a good location, and you don't have anything cluttering the trunk. Nice.

CJITTY

Sorry for the late reply. There are no jacks in the back of the stock radio (RCA preouts). You can do speaker level inputs with an amp that has that option, but it is much easier to get an aftermarket deck and run the rca cable down the center console, under the carpet, under the back seat, into the trunk if you ask me.

Here is a link to remove your stock radio. It's for a CL, but same process. It worked for me, it should help you. Also, search for UNCALD4 user name and see his posts...great info there also.

Radio removal instructions http://www.skyeflye.com/acura_cls/In...01-2003_CL.pdf

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

DC3328: The CL and TL have the same dash parts for the most...... part.

You can use a HI/LOW converter off of the rear speaker output wires from the deck. This will give you RCA outputs from your factory deck. Please PM me if you have questions about .... going about this.

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

thx alot guys i'll see wat i can do, finally a forum that responds!

Bob_F

Nice job!

DC3328

iTrader: (22)

i tried pm'ing u uncald4 but its not letting me for some reason, i wanted to kno if getting a new head unit would make my life easier, and will it still work with the controls on the steering wheel, thx

SSMTL01

slick

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

An aftermarket headunit would make your life much easier.

I have everything that you would need to make this work including your steering wheel controls. If you can't PM me just shoot me an email.

bklynpanman

perfect... now your nav unit will overheat..

fsttyms1

Looks nice, the only thing i dont like about it is that the navi unit already hung low and now with that you have less clearance for things.

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

You can hang your clothes from it.

CJITTY

LOL guys, the amp NEVER gets hot, even after running it hard during a 3 hour road trip!! The NAV unit works just fine, even during that trip. After my VSA wire snip fiasco, I wasn't trying to drill into the car and not paying someone $100 to mount it. Surprisingly, I can still get a regular suitcase in the trunk, even with the amp and box...anything tall that can't fit in the trunk goes in the backseat..no biggie.

seanranger3

i dont think that an amp is supposed to be on metal. but might be wrong

uncald4

iTrader: (3)

Actually it's usually better for an amp to be on metal. A lot of times it will prevent alternator whine from the chassis of the amp being grounded.

CJITTY

^^^
Yup, I heard that too. I have no whine and the amp is grounded as well as the navi unit itself. I have the wires arranged to keep signal away from power as well. The only place the amp touches metal are on the mounting holes on the "U" bracket, it is not touching anywhere but those four corners.

CJITTY

^^^
Yup, I heard that too. I have no whine and the amp is grounded as well as the navi unit itself. I have the wires arranged to keep signal away from power as well. The only place the amp touches metal are where the amp mounting tabs meet the "U" bracket, it is not touching anywhere except for those four corners.