drbeatty

Thanks again to everyone who helped me with their suggestions for radar detectors. I have chosen the Passport 8500 after strongly considering the Valentine-one. I made my choice based upon cost ($140 less for the 8500) and looks (no offense to those of you who have one). Do any of you have mounting suggestions? I am considering tapping into the fuse box, but am open to other suggestions...

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2001 Nighthawk Black Pearl / Parchment Interior
Acura DVD-Based Navigational system
Burlwood Shifter
Alpine 620 Changer
Heavy Right Foot

Indyjenks

Tap into the fuse box but make sure you find a switched circuit (one that goes hot/cold with the key). Ive always hard wired my detectors...I hate cords hanging all over the place! Thats one of the main reasons Im considering the K40 undetectable version. Clean, nothing visible...front and rear protection....great specs. Unfortunately....big price...LOL!

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72 Olds 442 Convertible (dual ram air) Play ride
99 Chevy Explorer high top conversion (vacation ride)
94 Ranger Splash 4x4 ext cab. (work/haul ride)
80 Honda CB750F (Shoei/Kerker) wheelie ride
02 TL-S Black/Ebony Underbody/spoiler/wood(due 3/28) MY RIDE
00 John Deere 4 wheel steer (yard ride...hehe)

Gomez

Hardwire is the only way to go, into the fuse box. Thanks to Shawn S. for the method; it only took me 20 minutes! (BTW, I like it right at the roofline, where you can't see the detector from outside because of the tint band. I always leave it in the car, and it's nice that it just turns on when the car starts...)

--origonal post appears here--
I have my V1 unit mounted to the left of the rear view mirror.
I believe some people tapped into the power from the mirror circuit, but this is what I did to “hard wire” my V1 with the remote display:
Pull off the A-Pillar trim piece going from the dashboard to the headliner (no fasteners, it just pulls off).
Open the cover to the fuse box on the driver’s side.
Fish the wires from the V1, across the headliner and down the post to the fuse box.
I used some blue poster putty to keep the wire from falling out of its hidden place above the headliner.
Press the A-Pillar trim piece back on being careful not to pinch any wires.
I connected the power to the fuse box (#12 fuse).
It is the circuit for the windshield wipers and it is only “HOT” when the key is “ON”.
Strip the RED V1 power wire about 3/8 of an inch.
Pull the #12 fuse out.
Fan the wire out a bit so it is kind of flat.
Insert the bare wire into one side of the fuse socket (doesn’t matter which side).
Be careful that there are no loose strands of wire sticking out anywhere.
Replace the fuse; it will hold the wire securely in place.
Connect the ground wire to the screw terminal on top of the fuse box opening. (See photo)
If you have the remote display like I do, it is only slightly more difficult.
The power connections are the same, but instead of power directly to the V1 there is a small junction box that distributes power to both pieces.
They are all plug-in phone type connectors and no cutting/splicing is required.
If you mount the remote display on the column where I have mine, be sure to use “zip-ties” to keep the wires away from any parts that move when you turn the wheel.
Your V1 unit should now turn ON/OFF with the ignition whenever you start or stop the car.
I hope this helps you out.
Shawn S

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'01 White Diamond Pearl 3.2TL
-Wing, tint, wood and Whistler