NYDennis1

While driving the other day. (hour after putting gas in car) the engine started to idle rough. When I got home I put my OBII tester on the car and those codes came out.

If you listen to the mufflers in the back of the car the back drivers side sound fine. The passenger side has the puttering coming out of it.

Any ideas before I start checking out each coil?

fsttyms1

You have a misfire. I would start with the coils.

NYDennis1

yeah I did some searching on here and though it might be like that, but figured I'd post something about the difference in the exhaust.

would the particular exhaust sound isolate which bank of coils it could be?

fsttyms1

the sound should be the same on both sides, the exhaust comes from the same pipe. The Tl does not have dual exhaust. just single pipe to a "Y" and no, the sound wont help isolate which one.

01tl4tl

unless you have a muffler failure and the guts are coming apart
Pound on mufflers from underneath with edge of your fist
any rattles would be a bad sound

if those test are good,
buy 1 coil at parts store and start testing on each cyl
reset ECU each time by pulling the clock fuse on passenger end of dash

how old are your plugs--NGKs?

NYDennis1

The plugs are about two years old, and they are NGK's and couldn't have more then 10k miles on them

NYDennis1

can i use a coil off a 2001 acura CL to test my coil?

Sperry

iTrader: (1)

Is there any way to test a coil in hand?

Coils either work opr they don't? It is not, generally, a "wear" item?

NYDennis1

I should have said could a Coil from a 2001 CL type S be used to find which coil may be bad before running out to buy a new one. So glad I bought my own OB reader.

Will the readers reset the ECU or just by pulling the fuse?

NYDennis1

I took off the coil from an 2001 cl and tried one in each slot on the TL. Reset the ECU each time and the check engine light starts flashing again after a minute or so. instead of all the codes I listed I am only getting p1399 at the moment.

Any other ideas on what is best to try next?

also is it safe to drive the car around with this problem?

LoCotl13

check your EGR valve. I had a very similar problem took off my egr valve and cleaned the shit out of it replaced the gasket and voila, good as new

NYDennis1

The gasket needs to be replaced? I was thinking of doing the EGR valve, but wasn't sure if I would need a new gasket or not for the manifold

NYDennis1

Turned out to be the # 3 Coil that went bad. When I replaced it I must have pulled the coil wire a tad and it was still out of whack. Acura fixed it. Cost 115 dollars but at least it is done.

Acura did try to get me to get a timing belt done $950.00
Engine mounts 550
90k service 550.
and inner tie rods.

01tl4tl

bet they said front and pass side motor mounts bad right?
DIY those right away- its causing problems you cant imagine~
parts are about 200 for both the mounts- front is fluid filled and some years are vac boosted, so a bad mount also makes a vacuum leak! that one is $120-150 for just the part!!
try one of our sponsoring dealers for a price break

Tie rods- affects steering-wearsout tires.. diy if skilled and special tools, or an alignment shop can do it- will need one after so already at the right shop

Who among us doesnt need the timing belt? those who already did it!
be sure to replace the tensioner and idler pullies along with water pump and the belts
Ups the price but protects your investment

90 service- DIY fluid changes and inspections for the most part- see owner book

Its probably time for spark plugs and internal engine cleaning/fuel injection service if you are not already hooked on seafoam

01tl4tl

just pulling the coil wire off can produce false positive as you have found
If you are going to test the coils- remove the coil and try a new one (or borrowed)
A coil has dieing,, then dead- not just works or dont
They will fool you big time

many prefer to reset the ECU via the CLOCK fuse on passenger end dash- that is the secret ecu backup power source
Saves you from resetting the radio security code and whatever

01tl4tl

on the EGR-
the gen2 TL has a problem with crud buildup in the EGR passages thru the intake manifold, and plugs up the holes at the cylinders-causing backpressure in its own system
Makes car run funny

Per our megamod with 350,000 miles of TL experience on one car
This EGR PORT cleaning service needs to be done every 75k miles-
not the valve itself- that can use a lube and inspect but the manifold is the focus
modern gas leave the bad crud behind
See DIY for `thermblock install and egr port cleaning` for removal of intake and cleaning procedure
with wire coat hangers and carb cleaner...lots of carb cleaner~
under 2 hours diy at a casual pace for the noob
Pros- less than an hour and throw it in the solvent tank

ysr84

How do you know which cylinder is cyl 1 and cyl 2???
I have a type s 2002 TL.

01tl4tl

rear of engine- the part closest to the driver, is 1 2 3 left to right viewed from front bumper with hood open
front cyls left to right -passenger to driver is 4 5 6

to reset the ecu after each test- pull CLOCK fuse on passenger side end of dash for 1 minute

01tl4tl

you can try unplugging the coils one at a time to determine which is bad, or buy 1 coil at parts store for 50 bucks and start with the listed cyls in the codes-it may be one of them or not~
just keep moving the new coil and resetting the ecu

note- it may need a new spark plug on that cyl if plug is loaded up from not sparking right