3.2TLc

Save your wifey further grief and frustration......have the car's cooling system pressure checked for potential leaks. If the system is allowed to continue operating low in coolant, it'll result in poor running and overheating of the car's motor. Could get expensive real quick, if put off. Replace the temp guage also !!!

BoriTL

i did notice that the res tank was really super minimally going down but never thought anything of it. Will definitely ziptie the hose but no loose issues with it. I replaced everything except those two o-rings thats why i was asking if they would cause the coolant smell. We recently moved so really didnt have the room in the garage to work on her since i'm in Florida working in the sun is a definite no no way to hot. But garage is all cleaned up, so have a three day weekend coming up and replacing and fixing a couple things.

O-rings for heater pipe
rebuild power steering pump
replacing lower IM gasket

than i'm pretty sure i'm leaking from on top of the oil filter which i believe is the vtec oring i read previously. so thats next on the list after this. And than its suspension time once i can get rid of the cooling issue, ball joints, control arm, etc and than probably tein coilovers to get rid of wheel gap.

ErickUa5

Last time I smelled coolant after a drive was that the lower hose going to the thermostat housing was not sealing correctly and the leak was so small that it would evaporate by the time I checked it.
The fix : took a box cutter, cut out the end of the hose and put it back on. I have not smelled coolant ever since. This may or may not be your problem remember you had coolant spraying everywhere before, you could be smelling the residual stuff when the engine bay gets hot.

As for the fans staying on I also had the fans running for more than 5 minutes before and after this issue so I tested the easiest coolant switch (next to the EGR valve) and it had continuity even when the switch was cold, Replaced it with another one from my other engine that I had laying around and bamm all is back to normal. The fans dont stay on for a long period of time like before, Hope this helps you.

3.2TLc

If ya replaced alot of things involved with the cooling system, make sure that ya go over all of your previous work. Check all of the connections. If ya reused the old clamps, they don't always re-tighten as well. Replace them with new ones if in doubt. An old trick is to apply a thin coat of Permatex sealant on the pipe which the hose is being applied to.

BoriTL

Ok fellas what a pain to take off the bottom im. So what i found was i believe a knock sensor which is the center in the middle of block, sensor had no wire to it as well as i found a connector next to the lower steering pump that had a wife cut too. I take it they go together ??? Also tons of debris almost looked like a couple birds nest under there. Anything i should replace while i have it apart?

Would that sensor cause anything?

3.2TLc

Mice like to chew on things up under the hood when they get hungry for a snack.

If ya got everything torn down, it would be best to replace the entire sensor along with the wiring harness connector to it. But, IMO.....this is not what's causing your over-heating issues. Look for other signs of things chewed on, maybe like a coolant sensor's harness ?

ErickUa5

If you didn't see the wire there and haven't got a the check engine light on, that makes me think you have burned CEL or removed by the previous owner, you did mention you saw a piece of paper behind the Hot/Cold needle.

When my knock sensor wiring was broken, the engine had less power also both CEL and TCS light was on. You have to replace the sensor just fix the wire and its good to go, but be careful when pulling on the knock sensor connector as the plastic of the sensor is very brittle and could break.

Do you see the Check engine light or TCS light with the key on position II without the engine running ?

01tl4tl

I think you are on to something with the dash- gauge tampering-bulb pulling to solve the mystery lights- the broken connector - no one would look for that!

hows your cabin air filters look- bird nest in tubing for it?

3.2TLc

This may tell the story !!!

BoriTL

Im pretty sure cel works as it came on when tranny crapped out last year

BoriTL

So had to order little air assist tubes that go into intake, as well as new knock sensor as it was broken. The wire to the connector that plugs into the knock sensor is extremely tiny, like only a bit sticks out, i could probably carefully peel it but seeing what you guys would suggest??

also the end the knock sensor leads to is that on the power steering side, cause i found a loose connector on that side and the wire looks to match the piece i found lying on the engine just wanted to confirm, this end i can splice and connected another wire.

also how would i go about knowing if they did disable something like CEL?? etc...

3.2TLc

If the CEL doesn't come on as ErickUa5 mentioned, the light may be burnt out.

BoriTL

is it possible to open up the connecteor and replace the wire for the knock sensor connector??

also how was my car still running good without that sensor being plugged in??

3.2TLc

Today's modern ECU/PCM's are capable of adapting to all sorts of conditions and will just go into a default mode masking various issues to continue running fairly well. It's like MAGIC.....!!! gotta love the new technology.

ErickUa5

Yes the connector can be taken apart, just pry the white cover and it should reveal a tab that holds the wire in, Use a small flat head.
You still haven't told us if the Check Engine Light and TCS light come on when the key is position II, Because both will come on when the knock sensor is not detected.

If it came up when the tranny blew then maybe the shop had something to do with the bulbs not working after the work.
Ever got it scanned ? you will see the Ksensor code.

BoriTL

Sorry haven't gotten to it yet, everythings apart in the garage, had to order the air assist i broke, have to wait till saturday for the funds so just been riding the GSXR for now. i'll pop the battery back on and see if they light up.

01tl4tl

you probably use the correct 91/94 octane fuel and keep internals clean with seafoam or similar product, so knock is not an issue under normal driving

If you used 87, run 2 buck chuck spark plugs, live at 5000 feet and its 90 degrees,,thats different!

BoriTL

anyone know the size socket or wrench needed for the knock sensor??

ErickUa5

Did this 3 years ago but I believe its a Metric 13/16 deep socket preferably, cause the sensor sticks out.

ErickUa5

I meant standard size 13/16 not metric, sorry.

ErickUa5

Ok verified I have the actual socket I used and its actually a 15/16 deep socket. Sorry about the last 2 posts.

BoriTL

Thank you saves me sometime, as the bigger sockets are at the mommas house so least i can grab and go.

Placing my order today at dealer
91301-p8A-A00 O-ring (oil leaking side of valve cover)
46505-SA5-000 Brake stopper (brakes been staying on)
36202-p8E-A00 air assist valve (broke them taking runners off)
30531-p8F-a00 Knock sensor wire (apparently rats eat it)

hopefully my baby will be back to normal once i install the heater pipe orings as well.

The lower IM are super dirty, i have the injectors still attached, can i use degreaser in this area without problem or do the injectors and rail need to be removed??

thescoundrel

Replaced my Knock sensor and wire last month. Initially I thought it was just the wire but the connector on the sensor was jacked. Stupid mouse. I used a 24mm socket.

3.2TLc

Ya never know......maybe the mouse or one of his friends may be back to sample the new candy.

Ha, hah !!!

BoriTL

Got most of the work done yesterday, was pretty easy, alot of cleaning up, tons of junk in there. Waiting on the air assist valves to finish putting the IM back and than its connect all the hoses back up and make sure no leaks. Waiting on a friend to since he has a compressor to rebuild the power steering pump. And than its off to the next task.

1) oil leak (i believe from the oil filter) couldn't tell since PS was leaking
2)suspension needs help (ball joints, control arm, etc..)
3)tein coilovers (in a couple months, gotta save)

01tl4tl

rare for an oil filter to leak unless the old oring got stuck on the engine block side

valve cover bolts do loosen and drip down in that area

INSIDE the intake manifold- the egr port(s) and passage can be cleaned with carb cleaner or deep creep/seafoam and a wire coat hanger
crud will be abundant
99s have one egr port, later years have 6
ALL years must be reamed clean thru the main passage and out thru the 2 holes under actual egr valve- remove it and lube operating arm while you are there

01tl4tl

reminder: PS belt tension is much looser than you think
ck owner book or our diy section for correct spec and procedure

there is a problem with ps pump orings, so that may be your oil down there

BoriTL

Will check on the valve bolts when i get back in there. EGR was already cleaned a couple months ago, still looking nice. As far as the operating arm, i had taken the nuts off the EGR itself and it comes apart i had cleaned that as well previously, is that what your talking about??

01tl4tl

so you removed the complete intake manifold for that broken sensor?
then cleaned egr port and path system inside manifold with the coat hanger right?
had the throttle body off and everything? cleaned it?

the egr valve with 2 nuts holding it on - gets removed so the holes under it get cleaned- they are the end of the egr gasses path, actually the start of it when in operation
The part that moves gets wd or your choice on it, ck smooth motion

01tl4tl

also ck the PCV valve on rear valve cover
should shake inside easily when removed from hose
if clogged it wont vent, and excess pressure inside engine will cause oil leaks
under 10 dollars for new one at any parts store

3.2TLc

Always work from the top down when trying to find the source of an oil leak.
Once ya have the PS pump leakfree, clean everything up and then inspect again.
Leakage of oil around the oil filter area is often from the VTEC solenoid nearby.

01tl4tl

I knew it was something down there besides the filter, thanks 3.2

BoriTL

That was the next thing to blame was the vtec solenoid, but i wanted to be sure it wasnt the PS pump before i start ordering parts.

BoriTL

Ok so just got done replacing the seals for the heater pipe. When you guys are burping the radiator does you guys level go up and down continually? I see it swirl so it's moving around but at times overflows than sucks it back down. Cycled two fans but didn't seem to stay to top of radiator neck. Also you guys were right douche bag that had car before must have done something to disabled tcs check engine lights where do I start with that?

Would the idle bouncing cause the burping issue, I replaced iacv last year so not sure if map or tps is messed up but it has the bounce right now?

ErickUa5

Does the throttle cable have some slack ? If it does not chances are the throttle plate is open just enough to let some air through.

Have you tried the "Idle Relearn Procedure" ?
Hold RPM to 2000 until the fans kick on then let it idle for 5 minutes with absolutely all accessories off before starting the procedure, even door lights off

Get it scanned, thats why I bought a scanner with Live Data for about $60, if not you're working blind.
You need to see what the computer is seeing then you will be able to find out why the car is acting the way it is.

Throw pics of the throttle body maybe some thing is off and one of us will notice it.

BoriTL

I had taken throttle cable off and still does it. I'm gonna have codes read and I believe it tells you the tps open and closed as well.

ErickUa5

A normal TPS shows 9.4%

You might need this:
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3.2TLc

.........

Check for codes, go over all of your previous work, look for vac leaks, have a beer and read similar threads.

BoriTL

Why couldn't everyone be taught to do things right the first time, freakin ass that had the car last disabled somehow the TCS and check engine light must likely cause they didn't figure out that a rodent ate the wire for the knock. Still have a couple issues if you guys can help.

How would i go about diagnosing the check engine and TCS lights??

Rebuilt the power steering pump but not getting any flow in the fluid, anyone have this issue??

Going to Advance today to see if they can pull whatever codes get a better picture what the computer is thinking.

3.2TLc

Perhaps the computer's brain quit thinking, after being tampered with by the previous owner.