Oil pan removel
05-15-2010, 11:47 AM
#2
depending on the hole- some ziners have repaired the pan with jbweld or similar product
otherwise......
otherwise......
05-15-2010, 02:15 PM
#4
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umm.....No jbweld here
Already took down the exhaust pipe just waiting on the pan and the strainer.
On the way home car shut down twice didn't start the second time lucky I was pulling at my gate and was able to fetch in. I checked it couple hours later and it was able to start.Hope I didn't damaged the engine.
Already took down the exhaust pipe just waiting on the pan and the strainer.
On the way home car shut down twice didn't start the second time lucky I was pulling at my gate and was able to fetch in. I checked it couple hours later and it was able to start.Hope I didn't damaged the engine.
05-15-2010, 02:32 PM
#6
i have seen a cracked pan before, but not like that being punched out though, even then they had gone for a little off road adventure iirc (aka accident)
anyways, the dealer will probably have the pan in stock, replaced normally for bad drain plug threads though, but not the pick up though (also don't forget the gasket maker from honda, kinda expensive, but EXTREMELY easy to work with though, even comes in a little aerosol can too
)
now as far as your motor being alright, i don't think it will be
, pretty massive oil loss, but always worth a shot though, putting a new pan on, and then starting it (btw don't start it anymore till a new pan is on, don't want further damage); also don't forget a new filter while you are at it (or start it with the old one, then put a new one on after you got pressure), and prefill it also, to get oil pressure back as soon as possible
anyways, if your motor is shot, it is a perfect time to upgrade also, with a 3.6 stroker motor for more power
(and catch up on the t/belt if not done somewhat recently)
anyways, the dealer will probably have the pan in stock, replaced normally for bad drain plug threads though, but not the pick up though (also don't forget the gasket maker from honda, kinda expensive, but EXTREMELY easy to work with though, even comes in a little aerosol can too
)now as far as your motor being alright, i don't think it will be
, pretty massive oil loss, but always worth a shot though, putting a new pan on, and then starting it (btw don't start it anymore till a new pan is on, don't want further damage); also don't forget a new filter while you are at it (or start it with the old one, then put a new one on after you got pressure), and prefill it also, to get oil pressure back as soon as possibleanyways, if your motor is shot, it is a perfect time to upgrade also, with a 3.6 stroker motor for more power
(and catch up on the t/belt if not done somewhat recently)
05-15-2010, 02:35 PM
#7
not hit massive rocks like OP 
part of the reason for an advantage of steel oil pans, they bend not shatter
but aluminuim makes the motor more rigid though, and help keep the oil cooler, from being able to transfer heat away easier
(and they are about the same weight, so not much difference there)
part of the reason for an advantage of steel oil pans, they bend not shatter
but aluminuim makes the motor more rigid though, and help keep the oil cooler, from being able to transfer heat away easier
(and they are about the same weight, so not much difference there)
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05-15-2010, 02:50 PM
#10
a 3.6 liter motor, instead of a 3.2 liter motor (which is in there right now), so it is basically the putting the bottom end out of a Acura MDX or a Honda Odyssey into your car currently
but what i am getting/feeling, you are not probably into performance though, so might not be worth it to you, but anyways give me one sec
but what i am getting/feeling, you are not probably into performance though, so might not be worth it to you, but anyways give me one sec
05-15-2010, 02:55 PM
#11
so basically this (same idea, just different parts)
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/3-5-liter-hybrid-build-information-714305/
but you put the crank outta of a 3.7 liter motor in ours though, which when using the stock pistons, equals 3.6 liters
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-frequently-asked-questions-52/3-5-liter-hybrid-build-information-714305/
but you put the crank outta of a 3.7 liter motor in ours though, which when using the stock pistons, equals 3.6 liters
05-15-2010, 08:07 PM
#13
Your next oil change after your new pan is installed, I would definitely recommend an oil analysis.
05-15-2010, 08:50 PM
#16
Wow man, 10 minutes is kind of pushing it. And since you say you drove it that long to get home, we know the engine wasn't idling but under load.
But...you never know. Get that pan fixed & see what happens.
But...you never know. Get that pan fixed & see what happens.
05-15-2010, 09:03 PM
#17
I have jbwelded so many things and know of others- if a very small crack- not a hole- has occured, you can weld it up and it will be good for decades
Works on engine blocks too! my old truck still going
you drove home with no oil--really--was it at redline temp?-
if you have full coverage insurance you need to speak with your agent,
that is something possibly covered by comprehensive (in cases I have heard of)
Its replacement engine time if run more than a few seconds- 1 minute maybe
but 10 minutes and it will have damage to the rod bearings- journels etc
Example: a quick lube type shop doesnt tighten plug or overtightens and strips so it goes loose! or filter double oringed,, whatever mistake happens- you drive away- get 3 blocks and the oil light comes on, you make a uturn back to the shop at which point the engine is making noises like you have never heard--
shop has to replace your engine, on them- thats a direct example from a ziner
to help you:
A boroscope camera can look inside with the pan off-(and thru sparkplug holes)
ck for caked-white burnt oil- cylinder wall scoring and other signs of near death,,
acura dealer has one- may be worth an hours labor to have an expert written opinion (if insurance will cover the event)
or just for you to know not to buy the oil pan and pickup- go look for what you are going to mate the remaining good parts to
I agree with you fries!- prefill your new oil filter (buy a cheap one for now)
that means slowly pour new oil into it and let the paper absorb the oil- you can get about 3/4 full without oil spilling out when you turn it to install on car
make sure old filter oring is removed from engine block -heat makes them stick on and another prob will occur- 5 qts on the floor in less than a minute
wont help your situation
Lightly lube the new filters oring with fresh oil on your finger and the threads too- makes it seal great (liquid betwenn 2 surfaces) and easy to remove filter later on
That first running test is going to pump bad stuff thru the oil fast-
then you can run compression test or cylinder leak down as needed to see if rings are toasted
Im sure this will be much to my followers dismay:
Seafoam will remove the glaze and burnt crud.... but if the engine has terminal injuries to the bearings and surfaces,,foamings not going to fix that 
Works on engine blocks too! my old truck still going
you drove home with no oil--really--was it at redline temp?-
if you have full coverage insurance you need to speak with your agent,
that is something possibly covered by comprehensive (in cases I have heard of)
Its replacement engine time if run more than a few seconds- 1 minute maybe
but 10 minutes and it will have damage to the rod bearings- journels etcExample: a quick lube type shop doesnt tighten plug or overtightens and strips so it goes loose! or filter double oringed,, whatever mistake happens- you drive away- get 3 blocks and the oil light comes on, you make a uturn back to the shop at which point the engine is making noises like you have never heard--
shop has to replace your engine, on them- thats a direct example from a ziner
to help you:
A boroscope camera can look inside with the pan off-(and thru sparkplug holes)
ck for caked-white burnt oil- cylinder wall scoring and other signs of near death,,
acura dealer has one- may be worth an hours labor to have an expert written opinion (if insurance will cover the event)
or just for you to know not to buy the oil pan and pickup- go look for what you are going to mate the remaining good parts to
I agree with you fries!- prefill your new oil filter (buy a cheap one for now)
that means slowly pour new oil into it and let the paper absorb the oil- you can get about 3/4 full without oil spilling out when you turn it to install on car
make sure old filter oring is removed from engine block -heat makes them stick on and another prob will occur- 5 qts on the floor in less than a minute
wont help your situation
Lightly lube the new filters oring with fresh oil on your finger and the threads too- makes it seal great (liquid betwenn 2 surfaces) and easy to remove filter later on
That first running test is going to pump bad stuff thru the oil fast-
then you can run compression test or cylinder leak down as needed to see if rings are toasted
Im sure this will be much to my followers dismay:
Seafoam will remove the glaze and burnt crud....
but if the engine has terminal injuries to the bearings and surfaces,,foamings not going to fix that
05-16-2010, 11:57 AM
#20
karma will get you if you marvel oil it and sell to unwitting buyer
If you disclose its needs- and adjust price accordingly- then all is well in the Universe
Does it have a good transmission?? those are hot sellers~
If you disclose its needs- and adjust price accordingly- then all is well in the Universe
Does it have a good transmission?? those are hot sellers~
05-16-2010, 12:33 PM
#22
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that sucks... has happened to me enough times due to NYC streets. I have changed my oil pan 3 times already. That was because those times they were un repairable.. The other times i use good old JB weld... JB weld is the best.. i use to double it up, the soft 2 part kind and the hard stick type. JB Weld is the best stuff ever made for repairs.
05-16-2010, 12:39 PM
#23
that sucks... has happened to me enough times due to NYC streets. I have changed my oil pan 3 times already. That was because those times they were un repairable.. The other times i use good old JB weld... JB weld is the best.. i use to double it up, the soft 2 part kind and the hard stick type. JB Weld is the best stuff ever made for repairs.
05-16-2010, 05:04 PM
#24
Call your insurance co. That way if there's motor damage there going to cover it. I would do that before I worked on it. If your oil pan r&r works no harm no foul. If it doesn't then there going to help you. Just my 
05-16-2010, 07:26 PM
#25
for those of us with comprehensive or so called full coverage insurance- thats the first option- you pay insurance for accidents-let it take care of you for a change
if this wasnt an accident,,,you are simply a masochist or hate the TL
lol sarcasm red type etc
if this wasnt an accident,,,you are simply a masochist or hate the TL
lol sarcasm red type etc
05-16-2010, 08:44 PM
#27
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What does marvel oil do? I think the transmission is good.
05-17-2010, 11:07 AM
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yup. the hard 1 (like clay) is the harder, i put that 1st, the i put the liquid 1 right over that 1... so it doesnt leak. there has been times that i to fix it on the road. i never leave home without that stuff. best stuff on earth.
05-17-2010, 12:07 PM
#29
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WHY would you drive a motor for 10 min with no oil??
05-17-2010, 12:21 PM
#31
no full coverage insurance = probably no roadside assisitance either,,no cash on hand for tow truck--thinking its only a few minutes home
unaware of actual problem..dont want to get stuck and desperate to get car home..
panic and not thinking
pick any 2
unaware of actual problem..dont want to get stuck and desperate to get car home..
panic and not thinking
pick any 2
05-17-2010, 01:01 PM
#32
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What does marvel oil do?
05-17-2010, 03:30 PM
#33
its an oil additive, iirc its about 130 weight oil and restores compression by sheer thickness of product--thats my total comedic guess of course- on how it works
old mechanics trick to sell POS cars~
old mechanics trick to sell POS cars~
05-21-2010, 08:05 PM
#35
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I changed the pan the strainer add 10/30 synthetic and 8 ounces of marvel oil.Was driving the car for 3 days now and it runs great. Marvel oil can also be added to gasoline. Didn't put any in the gasoline.
Yet.
Last edited by Rodrick25; 05-21-2010 at 08:08 PM.
05-31-2010, 01:42 PM
#39
or a more likey situation is that one of the teeth/rotor on the oil pump has broken off (from the lack of oil btw), so it is now pulsating, which is that light flashing (there is enough oil flow and pressure off idle, so the light stays off then)
05-31-2010, 07:36 PM
#40
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Once it stayed on in idle and started flashing while I was driving. Just asking how hard is it to change the oil pump? I guess I’ll have to take down the pan again which I hope not? BTW Car drives great.