I have found lots of good information in this forum concerning the debate between synthetic and dino oil. I would like to add some things though for people searching this in the future.

The debate between dino and synthetic has been going on since syn was first introduced. The main benefits of synthetic being it holds up better under heavy use. This could mean either severe usage, with a normal change interval - or it could mean normal usage, with a long change interval. It's applicability depends on the preferences and driving habits of the person driving the car - the cost MAY not be worth the trade off if you change your oil at short intervals or drive conservatively in mild conditions.

I believe the much bigger issue that no one has really mentioned is the filter. The filter, not the oil, should be the main concern among owners looking to get the longest life out of their cars. The quality of the filter is supremely important in promoting longevity of the oil and engine. Bottom line - crappy filter means your oil will not remain clean for long and particles can build up and damage engine components. A lot of people may not realize that the life of the filter should be what controls the interval at which you change your oil, not so much the oil itself. Once a filter is clogged with particles, it enters BYPASS mode, meaning it does NOTHING to clean your oil from that point on.


There are many differences in brands that are available - i found a fantastic write-up a few years ago where a guy bought pretty much every major brand of filter, and dissected them to compare their construction and filtering abilities.

Where he explains the methods used and tests:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
Test Results:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html
Recommendations:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html


Basically, while your synthetic oil may be good for 15,000+ miles, the filter will likely be good for only 5,000-8,000 miles of that time (depending on driving conditions, environment, etc). Note that on many vehicles it is possible to change your filter without completely changing the oil as well - if this is an option for you by all means do so if you see fit.

 

appreciate the typing but did you think this was not common knowledge?
the guys at blackstone labs run dino in their cars-
which should tell you something about the fancy oils they test

decent oil filters on reasonably clean engines wil last 7500 miles
If unsure about engine condition run 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil and drive for 30+ minutes.. then change oil and filter

 

No I do not think it is common knowledge based on the debates that still occur and the questions still being asked. I wanted to provide a clear summary as well as post the filter info.

 

I run the cheap Fram filters changing the filter every 7500 and the oil at 15k plus intervals. I find it pointless to by 10+ dollar filters when 4-5 dollar ones will work just fine for the majority of people. I have 360k trouble free miles from the little orange filter (on this car and close to a million miles including my other vehicles) My oil is under severe conditions and gets tested regularly.

 

Dino only.

I always get the "special" at the local auto parts store.

 

I use synthetic. But I guess its just personal preference.

 

tom, can you back this up with a reference?

I did read the April 2010 newsletter where Tom (the writer of the newsletter) mentioned he "was too cheap to buy synthetic." But that's different than saying it is better or worse, plus we have no idea how he runs his cars or what interval he changes the oil and filter. But you said "guys" so I'm interested in reading what you read.

 

I got that info direct from their website a few years ago
read something like: we are often asked what oil is best?
With all the analysis data available, we run dino in our own cars

the reality is if you want to run synth based on harsh commute- or under 10 mile trips,, and plan to keep the car forever,,it will help things in tough operating conditions
It should give a tiny increase in gas mileage so fsttyms1 would see a benefit there
So if you want to,, go ahead-

For a track day new synth would go in my car~

it will not hurt to run synth...or semi synth or dino,,which really came from ancient vegative matter and not actual dinosaurs~
You can go back and forth at each oil change if you wanted, engine does not care.

Acura engineers figured 7500 miles on plain dino oil and set the light accordingly

While I normally run penz plat- they had cool commercials about molecular globification- but if a bargain on a quality brand is avail this time- thats whats going in

 

I havnt seen lab reports on dino oil by blackstone, but reports on azine recently of M1 sent in at 5000 miles showed it close to lifes end

Maybe synth isnt `The All Powerful OZ` we have been led to believe

 

Note: its the additives in the oil that wear out before the actual oil does
More additives = more stuff to wear out!

 

When i rand dino in the TL at the 7500 mark and had it tested it still always had a 3tbn. M1 syn had typically a 3-3.5 tbn at 15k. There is a big difference. The one time i changed M1 at 7500 it was like 5.5. even at 3 there is plenty of life left and contaminants were low.

 

^^possibly, but your TL isn't the "average" car - superman himself built yours, I believe...

 

Amsoil filters and oil. Don't care if it's more expensive. It is better. 209k and running perfect. 10k OCI's.

 

Valvoline Synpower and Bosch oil filter at 7500 miles.

FYI: Valvoline Synpower and Pennzoil Platinum on sale at O'Reilly Auto parts $3.99/qt!

 

K&N HP-1005 (oversize) (buy 3 get $5 off @Amazon) + Amsoil (w/ Preferred Customer discount) = Purrs like a kitten

 

is the 1005 longer or fatter,, filter than the 1004?

 

thanks for the heads up on my fave oil on sale Gabe--appreciated

for those who complain of oil change intervals and cost
try my honda bike,,real honda bike oil is 25$ for 4 qts!!,,name brands vtwin dino $4 per qt
filter $12-14 k&N/dealer part
AND the interval is 2500-3500 miles!!
thats every few months in the good weather

while my TL is 2000 miles past when I reset the light - but not real worried.
I need to get under there when its not 105F and take care of it

plus new issue- wife reports running over large metal turnbuckle for semi truck straps last night,,and now car trans shifter handle is stiff in operation,
she was busy noticing the yellow straps in other lanes--not thinking the rest of it would be in hers--thump
Oh no what has gotten bent?!

 

I bet if more did oil tests they would see the same.

 

Anyone know anything about Honda oil or filters- who makes them, etc.?

 

Our cars got very durable engine, so you can put pretty much anything in it and it will last.

 

total'd--who do you think makes them? whoever will do it cheapest!

in rare situations the OE is the best part for the job~

 

I can't say- I've never seen any information about it. I'd like to think it's "whoever will do it cheapest!" while maintaining a quality standard.

 

of course- a `minimum` standard
by the parts store guy description,, one store name sells OE quality
and its competitor handles above OE..higher quality-performance parts for the car

I saw on here some time ago that a maker change led to lesser quality, below that of fram orange? but kris swears by his orange filter,, the lab oil test and engine condition dont lie

OE is OK but for the price I think you can beat it
as long as it has an anti-drainback valve and good oring seal- it should be fine for regular oil change use

 

It's much fatter. Here are the details:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-1005
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-1004