Most definatly. well from my experience and with the extreme tempatures of las vegas the previous oil i would use which was the castrol Syntec did not last as long. meaning it would get dirty fast and by 3k miles it would be almost black like i never changed the oil. When i switched to the RP at 3k the oil was just lightly brown. not black like the syntec. Plus i noticed from my experience the engine ran much more responive with the RP instead of the Syntec. I change my oil every 2.7k to 3k depending on the temps of the weather. I noticed that when its cooler in the winter the oil does not tend to break down as quick. in the summer im assuming due to the high heat temps the oil breaks down much quicker. This is from my experience and ive gone though the Mobil 1s and syntec but i like the durability and performance i get from RP. i will definatly be using this oil from here on out. its been my 3rd oil change with RP and it seems with every change the motor feels better.

maybe its just me haha.

anyone tried the EAOS??? (SP?). its the new oil from Japan that they run in F1. i know you can get it at the Autobacs in Cali. but man the full synthetic is like 9ish + a bottle and the blend is like $6+ a bottle. i always wondered whats so special about this oil.

 

Sounds like a case of needs to Seafoam the engine and realize that oils job is to pick up combustion byproduct contaminents and suspend them in the oil till they are hopefully captured by the oil filter.

The Vegas heat is not whats killing your oil- its using a lower grade/quality
Switch to FULLY Synthetic- read bottles carefully yes its 6-8 bucks a quart and you can go 5000 miles even in Vegas no prob.

Seafoam the engine internals to get rid of the crud buildup in the oil passages

 

And as fsttymys1will attest- the only true way to know if your oil is dead is with a lab testing- less than 23$
they check life remaining and how the oils own additives are holding up- thats the main issue about how long between oil changes-

they also check for all types of metals that indicate wear in different parts of the engine.

 

so should people be switching from 5-30 to 0-30 because it will save them on gas mileage or is there something im missing here?

 

You do realize that the color doesnt mean that one is lasting longer than the other. Only way to know is to have it analyzed

 

its something your missing. Leave what the manufacturer recommends. The only reason they dropped to the thinner oil is over all (all their cars combined) for the cafe standards (which has to do with emissions as well)

 

CAFE= Coporate Average Fuel Economy
so Acura put thinner oil in the engines for the test so that the AVERAGE economy of all the vehilces it made came up to meet Federal Standards
It was not to because its good for the cars-
but to make govt happy without really doing anything!

 

Basically the color of the oil after a certain amount of engine use is more an indicator of your engine than your oil.

 

^ and if it wasnt changing color id be worried as its not doing its job picking up contaminants

 

I understand that Mobil 1 changed their formula, but I went to PepBoys today because they had M1 on sale, and I saw that some of the "normal/standard" (i.e. not EP, not high mileage) M1 bottles said synthetic blend, while others said fully synthetic. So do they still make two versions of "normal" M1, one fully synthetic and another syn blend? Or do you think the fully synthetic bottles were just old stock?

BTW, they were out of stock at PepBoys, so I bought the 5 quart bottle of M1 EP for $27. This is the first time I'll be adding synthetic, in the past I've just gotten my oil changes at the dealership. And I'll be adding a K&N filter.

 

Wait the "Mobil 1" bottle said syn blend. thats weird.

 

Mobil 1 5w20 (synthetic)

 

Yup. Some said Fully Synthetic while others said Synthetic Blend.

 

i guess no one is showing some love to havoline. i work for a havoline/chevron distributor and its the best oil ive ever used by far. i use syn 5-30 with deposit shield. i would reccomend it to anybody.

 

Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Performance Filter

 

I've been using Mobil1 5W-20 but will be switching to 5W-30 on the next change. I also use Lucas Oil Stabilzer and will stop using that. I am going to have my oil tested by Blackstone Labs and see how things are going in there.

 

I use regular castrol oil (not Synthetic), with pure one filter (aslong is not fram)
I trust castrol oil, cuz my turck has 150K with castrol oil no problem.
Off course I use Mobil 1 Synthetic on my camaro on my hayabusa.

 

Mobil 1 EP 5w30 in spring/summer, and 5w20 EP in the fall/winter with a Filtech Honda oil filter.

I know the car calls for 5w20 year round, but in the extreme heat, and my heavy foot I like the little extra protection the thicker oil will provide. Also considering the 99-01 TL called for 5w30 I don't think I'm doing any harm. In the summer I want it a lil thicker, in the winter a lil thinner.

My 05 RSX-S called for 5w30, yet the base RSX calls for 5w20, so there itself proves the higher compression, higher revving, more powerful engines should be using the thicker oil. Not that it's much thicker, but that it's mostly for fuel economy. I'll give some of that up for more protection.

 

Chris
the change from 5-30 to 5-20 was indeed to improve ~cafe~ standard- eek every bit of mileage from every car, to get a better average for all the cars the company makes- stupid, but govt program- go figure

Look at the ambient temps you drive and park the car in, and decide whats best for winter new york 5-20 or 0-20 even may be for you

Synthetics rock in cold weather- immediate start to lube and protect

 

is the Castrol 10w30 oil okay for the '03 TL-Ps?

 

FYI-Amsoil makes the tranny fluid for honda/acura applications. i was doing some research on this while trying to find a suitable synthetic ATF for my tranny that's being replaced right now (02 TL -S WDP...pics on 2g WDP forum). Amsoil has the best reputation and has rated consistently high over the years. Their air filters and oil filters are worth checking out also....the site rates them as being better than K&N! The company history is pretty interesting as well.

 

They are the best oil filters. But come on you dont need a $21+ oilfilter (with shipping)on our TLs.

The tranny fluid is worth checking though.

 

the trans fluid is compatible but not approved. Also it wont do anything to help our problem


Also you guys crack me up on your oilfilters you guys make it sound like that you use the cheap ones and your motor wont make it past 100k I used nothing but the Brand every one hates. Even on the extended run changes (though i did try a set of M1 filters and the oil tests came out NO different than the Orange ones) I couldnt justify 10+ dollars on a filter. Look at my motor. They all do their job.

Just my

 

I use castrol 10w30 on my wife 03 tl-p and my truck with 150K

 

im using a blend of 10w-30 and 5w-20.

 

why

 

Why??

 

because he wants 7w25

 

That's exactly what I thought. The winters here get very cold, and I want every bit of protection on startup so I make sure around this time of the year I switch back to 5w20.

I'm going to look into getting a case of Amsoil 0-w20 , and the 5w30 for the spring summer. I used Amsoil 5w30 on my 05 RSX-S reflashed. It revved to 8600 and I never had to add oil between changes (6k). I don't have a problem coughing up the extra $$ for protection. Thanks for your input.

 

For more startup protection and instant oil flow and pressure when deadly cold-
synthetic 0-20 will do you right in NY

Amsoil works really well in snowmobiles- must like the cold

 

Redline 5W-20, Mobil-1 M1-105 Oversize filter!
Since breakin!

 

Do you have to add more than the 4.6 qts for the oversized filter? If so, I am sure it's probably not much. What benefits do you get out of an oversized filter? I wouldn't think that it filters any better than a regular sized one, but I may be wrong.

 

Seems to run cooler.
Just shy of 5Qts.

 

for 2 reasons:

1. i have 1 case of 10W-30 full syn that i cannot return.

2. and the 01 manual says to use 10W-30 but 02 and 03s say to use 5W-20. since i want maximum fuel mileage, i would rather use all 5W-20 but since i cant return my 10W-30 and plus my 01 manual says to use 10W-30 anyways, so i just blended them since they seem to be interchangeable in the JA32A2.

the only problem is that my engine seems to be cranking a bit longer after the oil change. i dunno if its related. and im using pure one filter.

 

stick with 1 oil or the other- switch as needed for weather if concerned

Have your battery tested now before it dies totally

When using a larger filter- make sure to check the oil dipstick level when adding oil
Larger filters offer more filtration area and a little more cooling
A bonus but not mandatory

 

Care to explain it "seems" to run cooler??

 

About two years ago, The dealership change the oil with standard oil and a acura filter By accident. I put about 100 miles on it before I received a call from the service manager, saying they made a mistake and please bring the car back, to correct the problem. (they found the bag with 5quarts of Red Line oil and a Mobile-one filter)
In that short period of time I notice that the temp gauge was almost at the halfway point. I thought it was odd, because It always stayed just above the quarter mark. I know it doesn`t seem that much but. When you work with calibrated equipment all day, you seem to notice small differances.

 

well oil or not the temp gauge will only go to a certain point. (unless something is wrong with teh cooling system). The cooling system is designed to run at a specific point and oil wont make the motor run cooler. Its designed to run at a specific temp. Adding a larger radiator, adding watter wetter nothing will change the temp it runs at due to the thermostat and ecu being designed to have the motor run. Oil is no change. There may be less friction but that wont change the temp that you see on the gauge. The gauge should be at normal operating temp just below half

 

within 2 marks below 1/2 on my temp guage- rain or shine- hills- AC- hi speed- traffic
anything else is cause to investigate the cooling system

Many of us are at the 5 year mark on the original coolant
Yes I know what the book says, and if you read the coolant bottles that say 100k in small print or 5 years.
What happens is the additives in the coolant break down and turn acidic
Who stayed awake in science class??
- what happens when we put acidic solution thru aliminum and steel? anyone?
I still have a good 20k on my water pump till replace- but its got new coolant for the winter

 

i doubt its my battery. i have a kirkland with a 100 month warranty. the battery is only 22 months old but i do have a 1000 watt amp but i rarely play it without the car on.