Hi All :

Ok...so nobody laughs, got it !!

I've never changed to oil on my TL and I'm thinking I may have a crack at it. I have no idea where the oil filter is located and.....if you can you remove it without jacking up the car ? Yes, I could look it up in the manual but it won't tell me if it's possible (practical) to crawl under the car and spin it off.

smartypants

 

you can change the oil with out jacking up the car if your stock, BUT its far easier (especially for the person doing it the first time) to lift the car or use some ramps.

Filter can be seen in the passenger side wheel well with teh wheel turned all the way to the right

 

Thanks Kris.

I might jack the car up a bit...tilting it causes the oil to collect to one side. I guess I could undue everything and then let it back down to drain.

Not a big issue.

 

The benefit in getting that last bit of oil that'll collect in the corner due to tilt is probably negligible.

As far as jacking the car up...I personally prefer to jack it up...only takes a couple extra seconds & will give you the clearance to do the change much quicker (at least for me, I have no reach).

Filter can be done without lifting as fsttyms1 instructs. And it might be on there pretty tight. If it is, I've usually just used some sandpaper to get a better grip....especially if you're one-handing it.

 

sandpaper- thats a great idea!! looking for grip- that will give it to you

if you are thin, its easy to turn the wheel and get right in to the filter
If you jack a car up- especially with the car jack- use a jackstand or an old tire on rim under the frame rail
its way too easy to be crushed to death!!!!! by the car

A large ziplock bag slipped over the filter, break the filter loose them move the bag all the way down and spin the filter off.
that will contain most, if not all, the oil from the filter, and a little drips out of the engine,
have a rag on hand-make sure the oring for the filter came off with the filter
wipe surface on engine clean- no anything on it -clean seal

tip
prefill filter partway 1/3, so oil pressure builds quickly on startup

do you need us to explain the recycle program too? j/k

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=drain+valve

 

yea jack the car up and its pretty easy.

dont use the jack you have in the trunk of your car!!! it is weak and will fall easily if the car is shaken a bit!!! get a better jack and if you cant find another jack put the wheels under the car so it wont fall on you just the wheel.

I used that jack once and it fell forward when i got up to get a wrench. Luckily i wasn't under the car and the wheels werent removed.

its better to the car fall on the wheel then on you

 

My oil collection pan barely fits under the chassis, and getting the drain bolt out,
with the pan in position, is next to impossible. Still, I've never jacked up the car.
Might have something to do with the jack; Ajax, 80# of metal, lazy, etc.

The oil filter might make a little mess on the frame, but it has been minimal thus far.

Getting the car 3" up would make my job much easier;
I may eventually make a couple of "ramps" with 2" x 12" double-thick lumber.

 

they make low profile ramps and low profile oil catch pans~

my baby wont go on the metal ramps, but just makes it on the plastic ones

 

You mean, spend money on something to make my job easier? What an idea!

Yep, it is always a battle to get the drain bolt loose enough to finger turn while the pan is in position. Add to that, the bolt is usually pretty darn hot.

I think I'll look into the low pro ramps

 

a decent floor jack and use the center lift point up front. Then place the jack stands on the side lift points and go to town.

 

Did you look at this?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=drain+valve

To be installed @ next oil change-

 

reminds me...i need to get some jack stands. i hate having to drive my f'ing car on my metal ramps. i always think im going to gas it too much & drive right over 'em

 

There is no way in hell I'd ever put that thing on my car, even if I was changing the oil weekly.

I'm driving about 900 miles a week, but the discomfort of changing the oil the old-fashioned way is tempered by the security of an old-fashioned drain plug.

 

If using a jack, make sure you apply emergency brake first! It will lock the back wheels, which is necessary if the front wheels (where the gears engage) are off the ground! Getting to the filter without lifting the car isn't *too* bad, but getting to that drain bolt without lifting...well, you better be skinny...and not claustrophobic.

 

Parking brake + 2x4s on the rear wheels as added insurance, IMHO.

The drain bolt is a pain to get to ... but if the car is lifted (either by floor jack + jack stands / ramps) ... no problem.

My bit of advice: It's also a good idea to get a new washer to make sure it doesn't leak.

 

I've done oil changes on lots of different cars and I think our car is by far the easiest...Maybe because I do it the most, but everything is pretty conveniently located if you ask me.
Although, nothing beats the oil filter on an s2k.

 

So you have not had a bad experience with such a valve? Just paranoid that it will somehow open?

 

Yes, it would make me uncomfortable. I like being paranoid, however.
Couldn't road debris, a bag, something, catch the operating lever?

 

Hi All :

Ok.....I'm going to cause a lot of emotional reactions from the fluid-changers, seafoamers, plug changers and all those who like to "super maintain" their cars.....Take a deep breath and read on....Here I go.....

I'm never going to change my oil again.

Back in the day when synthetic oil was first introduced, many auto shops advertised synthetic oil as a permanent oil due to it's extremely stable chemical make-up and that it never loses it's viscosity. So, for a mere $60 (typical oil changes where ~$10 at that time) you could leave the oil in for the life of the car. The only exception was the filter, which was replaced at the normal oil change interval and the oil topped up. This is the plan I'm adopting using Mobile 1 and a new filter.

Now I know today many folks change synthetic oil like it was normal oil due to a very smart oil company''s marketing department's idea of engine "protection". Therefore the more expensive the oil, the better "protection", right ? I already concede that many of you will totally disagree with me and I do not want to burst anyone's balloon, but when was the last time you heard of an engine failing due to oil other than a lack of oil ?

Don't believe me ? Currently Quaker State is running a TV commercial where they analyze the used (Quaker State) oil from NYC taxis cabs and "discover" the used oil still meets manufacturers specifications.

I promise to let everyone know when my engine seizes up.....



smartypants

 

thats your decision
BUT
realize that commercial sites specific details of the report, not all the details,,,,
or say that oil can still be used safely in your car,,
only that it still meets certain specs--advertising and all

what wears out in oil is the additive package, specific to each maker.
they know car makers are saying 7500 (a secret agreement with oil comanies??)
So in many cases, the additives are made to last a bit longer than that

If you want to know how long you can run on a change- send a sample for mass spectrograph analysis, union 76 has a lab, blackstone,,several on internet

it will tell you the condition of the oil and what metals or fluids are floating around in the system,,not captured by the filter,,what is normal wear and what is high enough to be a concern

fsttyms1 ran 15kmile intervals with new filter at 7500 for years,,no problems with engine when removed for swap to 6speed- perfect inside the cylinder walls- where signs of oil probs show up dramatically
mindful of the fact he drove long distances in 1 day, then car idled, then long miles...repeat as needed for 3-4 years 200kmiles
thats different on the oil than most drive each day