Hi All :

I'm about to change out my plugs for the first (and last) time. NGK Iridium IX run about $8.99 ($54) each but NGK Platinums run around 2.99 ($18) which are listed as a fit for the TL. While I would like to reduce my costs, I don't want to have potential problems in the long run.

Has anyone used the cheaper Platinums and with what results ?

Thanks to all who reply.

 

Honda actually recommends the cheaper NGK Platinum. The Platinums are rated for a longer service life.
The IX are supposed to be "racier". If you have performance mods the IX may be better.Either will work fine.

I just installed Iridium IX today.

 

I use Platinums with no noticeable change in anything. but i dont have that many power mods.

 

The original Platinum plugs that came in your car aren't $2.99. More like 9 bucks each. Use what the engine was designed for, not something else. I bought mine online at an Advanced Auto store with a 30 percent discount coupon they sent me for using their online services. I paid around $40 or so bucks for the 6 of them. I've never seen them anywhere for 2.99.

 

thats definetly the WRONG platinum ngk for the TL
books are known to have human errors within~

the correct number can be found in many places starting with the owner book- hood sticker, acura.com...
and it seems the plats actually cost more than the Irids now

type S uses a step colder heat range than type P engines

 

just bought the iridium IXs from advance auto parts online. they run $7 each and there's a coupon floating around for $20 off of $50. i put some filler stuff in (dielectric grease, anti-sieze lube, 3"and 6" 3/8 ratchet extensions and a spark plug socket) to get my order up to $50.50. $10 for 2 day shipping and a couple of bucks of tax. well worth it, if you ask me, to order from aap.

 

...

 

Can someone post the actual part number for the Iridium IX spark plugs? Thanks in advance

 

Kragens out here sells them for 7.49 and then the other ones for 2.99

I have a friend that runs plats in his Type S with now under the hood mods and his has been running fine for 30k+

 

type S plugs are always different number/heat range than P cars
Need to state what you have when asking for a referance number
or call a parts store!!!

10+ years ago when honda wrote the book for the TL- iridium was too costly for street car plugs--used mostly by race cars and airplanes,,,until advances in mining technology produced a wealth of the stuff at less than Platinum,,which is being sought for jewelry~

The irids fire better- the plain version is supposed to last till 100kmiles,,
the IX has a different tip and expected to go 60, which is when many of us change plugs anyway- not trusting full performance till 105 from anything!!

 

compare the correct part number with those 2 buck plugs--wont match

many parts books cross referance by thread size-plug length etc
so autolite acdelco bosch all pop up as `fitting` the TL,
except real life testing has shown each of those to cause poor running
and require another round of plug changing!!

 

The OEM parts suppliers and the service manual are showing the Laser Platinums as the "right" ones to use. The "PZ" number is the NGK part number.

98079-5514N SPARK PLUG (PZFR5F-11) (NGK)

This means that "officially" the Iridium IX's are the "wrong" plug. Now, as long as the heat range is proper and the physical characteristics of the plug is correct, they should work fine. I know the super-maintainers will not agree (like the ignition is the source of the power and not the fuel/air mixture) and will dispute this point. However, they are important to the automotive economy and should be encouraged.

I think 03tLsNBP and Flipster say it all......

 

For the TL-P
The Normal NGK Platinum is: ZFR5F-11
The IX Iridium just Adds (IX) To the equation: ZFR5FIX-11

For the Type-S
NGK Platinum: ZFR6F-11
NGK Iridium IX: ZFR6FIX-11

 

Thanks buddy. That couldn't have been a more clear and perfect answer.

 

Totally agree with a dab of dialectric grease on the threads. Replaced my second set at 160 and they came out with enough resistance that I thought I was going to see aluminum on the threads as they came out. Luckily I went slow and steady and they all came out okay. Put a touch on each plug and threaded in to the head, back out and then I tightened them to spec. Hopefully they will come out alright at 240 when I do the next change.

 

just put a thin line of anti sieze on the middle 2-3 threads, screw in and torque

Never let any get onto the pistons!! by applying too much~

plats show in the book because 10 years ago thats what was available-
the irids are an update,,and what gen3 comes with stock- so you go figure if we can use them!

 

Use anti-seize compound, not dielectric grease.

 

some people suggest using dielectric grease on the part of the plug that electrically contacts the coil pack, altho it seems highly optional. it supposedly helps prevent corrosion at the contact points. i bought some and will be using it that way.

 

A touch of anti seize would be better than the dialectric but that's all I had other than wheel or marine grease!

 

your intention is to prevent different metals from corroding against each other,
like the factory plugs did - because installed `dry` at factory

the $1 pack of Anti Sieze at parts store counter is plenty for 6 plugs

its optional to use Dielectric grease on electrical connections- the plug tip to coil wont hurt anything and might give 5HP

most under-hood wires can use a dab inside them, especially if subjected to direct moisture,,(engine cleaning rinse)
or lots of power goes thru them- example: cabin fan blower motor

Story:
on my '86 honda bike, took apart every connector into the main harness and cleaned with CRC contact cleaner to remove crud, and emory file to shine the metal- makes better contact,, same as battery terminals

then applied `D` to them. More power flowing thru clean connects, and protected against future issues,,,
Example: wires catching fire under the seat where the big connectors are!!!!
that comes from a part very similar to the acura blower motor wire...
going to our `alternator/stator` on bike, it was subjected to constant power and a very tight stretch to fit~~~~~
on my bike it was burnt and melted on bottem--

seems like a honda parts prob dating back to the 80s! must have bought millions of these things and used them for decades

Acura and other makers appear to want the car to go thru 2 leases, so they got paid big time for the car, then a private owner crashes it in the mid 100s,,
insurance writes it off and to the recycle yard to continue the cycle of life

sidenote- anyone who owns an 80s honda atc 110/3 wheeler or any honda bike with `3 wire stator`- goldwings-VT-shadows magna etc. BUY the `Goldwing update kit` for stator connect at bike dealer
20 bucks..will save your butt,,literally..those seats dont just pop off! and who besides me carries a fire bottle???

acura TL note- get the `blower motor update kit` 20 bucks- will save a failed blower motor with loss of any fan/temp control..could be a cabin fire too,,depending on how your luck runs

 

there you go

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1

those are all the NGK AAP sells

 

Just got my Kit:


Anti-sieze + (Dielectric < FREE w/Purchase).

I Just need to wait for the engine to Cool Down to get started, The Pic Shows the Part Number for the Type-S Engine.

 

Well if Anyone was Wondering what would happend if you Install the Wrong Spark Plug Number here are the results:

NGK - (BKR5EIX-11)


Front of the Engine in Order: LEFT <



So im No expert here so I really dont know how are the Spark Plugs (Expert Opinion Welcomed) I install them less than a year ago in October 2010. I didnt feel any loss of power, just a Drop in City MPGs. Highway MPG remained the same.

Why did I Installed the Wrong plug? Long-Story-Short They were free, And my Old ones were busted.
AT LEAST THEY DIDNT COME OUT AS BAD AS THE BOSCH "IR" FUSION....

 

1 step hotter than whats called for is the old plugs
hope you used anti sieze this time~

if you are washing the engine,,be careful to keep moisture out of the plug area

 

Well thats the cool part I used Anti-Sieze like every Spark Plug change but they come out very dry maybe they were getting Hotter than usual.... WILL NEVER HAPPEND AGAIN thats for sure.

Lets hope they didnt do anything wrong to the combustion chamber they were replaced less than a year ago (Since I try to change my spark plugs every year).

 

no it didnt hurt the pistons
most engines have a spec for short trips- hotter plug, or longer high speed freeway use- a step colder,,, as well as general use plug
the length of the insulator material on center of plug is what changes to make heat rating change

run a can of seafoam in half a tank gas to clean things in general

 

with the correct plugs -ngk ix should go 50-60kmiles with no problems

 

We have the following three spark plugs in stock. We know for sure that all 3 of these work good with these vehicles.

NGK Laser Iridium Long Life Spark Plug



$11.65 each


NGK IX iridium Spark Plugs



$7.75 each


NGK V Power Spark Plugs


$2.59 each

www.KskSpeed.com

 

dont think so on those V- power ones

 

no way on the vpowers and our ignition system

irids are the best bang for the buck

 

Yep, that's what the NGK site indicates.

http://ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1377008

What's wrong with V-power version?

 

"... these work well with these vehicles."

 

Just changed my TL's plugs with Iridium IX ones. I cannot find how long these plugs are good for? I am seeing comments from 50, 60 or 100K miles? My TL is bone stock, other than K/N air filter and it is driven non-aggressively...using vtec seldomly.

 

there good for 50-60 k the laser plats IIRC are good for another 100k

and those V-power come on there 2.49 each get the 6.99 ones or the 13 dollar ones thats it.

you will have problems if u get the V-power ones

 

you should get 100k out of platnum plugs, the 50-60k isn't even close unless your constantly having drivability issues like, bad EGR curcuit, running rich all of the time and a list of others, but as long as it's tuned correctly and runs like it is suppose to 90-100k is normal.

Also no need to use anti-seize unless your using the cheap plugs that do not have the stainless steel bases, the biggest issue is most will try and change the plugs with the engine hot or still warm when you should be changing them on a completely cold engine, engine repair 101 when aluminum heads are used.

Also pretty much a waist to use dielectric grease too, if your getting corrosion then the boot of the coil pack is bad and not sealing on the plug and probably why your getting misfire codes too.

 

I disagree with that. When I replaced mine the engine was STONE COLD & they were hard to turn. They weren't "cheap plugs" either.
The dielectric grease will also help when it's time to remove the plug caps, on older cars that use high voltage wires (not coil on plug). Those rubber caps can become quite stuck.

Both are cheap insurance.

 

I spoke to Sean over at P2R, and he said they used to run the Iridium plugs in there race car, but would always keep extra sets of V Power plugs with them at the track. They said they prefer the Iridium plug; however, the V Power plug worked just fine for them as well.

 

ehh I still wouldnt get the V-Power plugs

unless someone could prove it to me that they work well in our TL/CL's

 

at the track: there are lots of things that will work for a session, or maybe even a full weekend

thats not the same as the several years we expect from our plugs

 

whats next- the bosch FIT so they are ok???
so sorry...already proven to be bad in the TL!!