Newbie say HI and has an emergency. Please help. Thanks!

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Old 08-08-2010, 11:27 AM
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Exclamation Newbie say HI and has an emergency. Please help. Thanks!

My steering wheel is loose. Don't know how to explain it very well so here goes nothing:

Every time I turn the steering wheel, it seems that it shifts out of position. For example, if the steering wheel is straight and centered and I turn the steering wheel, sometimes I hear a crackling sort of noise and then the steering wheel is at 90 degree angle while the front wheels are straight. It constantly changes positions. Right now with the front wheels straight, the steering wheel is upside down.

I think it needs to be centered and tied down like the way technicians do after an alignment. It is loose so its constantly changing positions.

Does anyone know how I can tighten that bolt? Do I have to remove parts of the steering wheel? Anyone have a DIY for straightening the steering wheel.

Can I tighten the bolts on the steering wheel so it doesn't shift out of place? It seems like the guy who may have done the alignment, straightened the steering wheel (Aligned the steering wheel) and probably forgot to tighten the steering wheel properly in place. Don't know who did it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any pictures or figures showing how to do it would be golden. I can't drive until I fix the steering wheel in place.

Thanks in advance!
Old 08-08-2010, 11:31 AM
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It is an 1999.
Old 08-08-2010, 11:37 AM
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no accidents we need to know about?

they dont remove the steering wheel to straighten it- they adjust its position using the tie rod ends- same thing you adjust to fix the steering pull issues its in alignment for~

If your alignment came out on spec- meaning nothing is bent, the number were right on, then your tech left something loose!!
go back immedialty- have the car towed!!
I would not drive it like that!!!

in answer to question: you have to remove the airbag to get to the steering wheel nut
Try pulling on the wheel- if it doesnt have motion towards you its good
try it with car off and move steering wheel- should come to the ignition steering lock and stop- no movement..wont move until you put key in and turn on- then pull on wheel to release lock pressure
Old 08-08-2010, 11:38 AM
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you may also have steering rack issues-
how is the fluid level and color- smells like burnt sugar?
Old 08-08-2010, 11:41 AM
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Do our TL's even have the Steering Wheel Lock? I always turn the steering wheel after I turn off the car and it never locked so I thought i didn't have that feature.
Old 08-08-2010, 12:02 PM
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My 2000 definitely locks
Old 08-08-2010, 12:35 PM
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sounds like a possible rack issue.
Old 08-08-2010, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
no accidents we need to know about?

they dont remove the steering wheel to straighten it- they adjust its position using the tie rod ends- same thing you adjust to fix the steering pull issues its in alignment for~

If your alignment came out on spec- meaning nothing is bent, the number were right on, then your tech left something loose!!
go back immedialty- have the car towed!!
I would not drive it like that!!!

in answer to question: you have to remove the airbag to get to the steering wheel nut
Try pulling on the wheel- if it doesnt have motion towards you its good
try it with car off and move steering wheel- should come to the ignition steering lock and stop- no movement..wont move until you put key in and turn on- then pull on wheel to release lock pressure
Actually I was towing the car to NC from NY on a uHaul trailer. It was the one with a rotating platform for the front 2 tires. The steering used to lock properly. At a rest stop I noticed that the straps on one wheel came loose and the wheels were turned slightly. Before the journey, I had locked the steering. When I tried to straighten the wheel, I heard clicks and the steering wheel moved. It was no longer locking. So i started the car and turned the steering wheel and straightened it out on the trailer and re-strapped it. Came home and took the car off the trailer. The steering wheel works fine, however when I turn it all the way to where it should stop, if I put a little more force on it, the steering wheel makes a clicking noise and turns more without the wheels turning anymore as the wheels are already turned full.
It seems that something came loose and the steering wheel won't stop from turn to turn. It just keeps on turning and I hear clicks. Seems that once the tires are turned all the way, the steering should lock in either direction, however, it is not. I'm assuming some bolt is loose.
No front end accidents.
Steering fluid look OK AND THE RACK LOOKS OK.
Previous owner was an anesthesiologist and always performed all services through Acura and always did everything that Acura told him so its probably been over maintained.
Old 08-08-2010, 12:43 PM
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Is there a diy here on how to remove the airbag and/or steering wheel. I'm assuming that some nut/bolt in the steering column has come loose or the steering lock may have broken.
Old 08-08-2010, 01:05 PM
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Could it be that rod that connects the steering to the rack (don't know the name) causing my symptoms of the steering wheel clicking and moving more after the wheels have been turned all the way to one direction?
Old 08-08-2010, 04:09 PM
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with the car off and key out can you turn the steering wheel and not have the wheels turn?
Old 08-08-2010, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
with the car off and key out can you turn the steering wheel and not have the wheels turn?
YES SIR! This is what it does:

With the key out car off: It will turn a little. I hear "click", "click", "click" and then with a quarter turn the steering wheel will lock and then it won't move in any direction. I have to put the key in to unlock it.

With the key in position 2, car off: The steering will will turn and again I hear it "click", "click", "click". Tires don't move, only the steering wheel moves but since now it is in position 2, the steering wheel does not lock.

PLEASE tell me its something simple, like a loose bolt or something.
Old 08-08-2010, 04:31 PM
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Also With the car started: The steering wheel will turn normally to either side until it's done turning the wheels and then it will keep on turning and I hear the "click", "click", "click".
Old 08-08-2010, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cancer_researcher
YES SIR! This is what it does:

With the key out car off: It will turn a little. I hear "click", "click", "click" and then with a quarter turn the steering wheel will lock and then it won't move in any direction. I have to put the key in to unlock it.

With the key in position 2, car off: The steering will will turn and again I hear it "click", "click", "click". Tires don't move, only the steering wheel moves but since now it is in position 2, the steering wheel does not lock.

PLEASE tell me its something simple, like a loose bolt or something.
#1 is normal movement.

#2 does the wheel keep turning and turning or does it go as far as #1 or do the wheels start turning.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:15 PM
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I suspect you have the problem in your steering linkage and/or gearbox.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
#1 is normal movement.

#2 does the wheel keep turning and turning or does it go as far as #1 or do the wheels start turning.
With the key in position 2, car not started. Keeps on turning but the wheels won't turn. The steering wheel won't lock. All I hear are the clicks.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
I suspect you have the problem in your steering linkage and/or gearbox.
How would I check for this please?
Old 08-08-2010, 05:29 PM
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Sounds like a spline either where the steering column meets the rack or the steering wheel mounts to the column (I dont think its the steering wheel to column)

Sounds like the steering was locked and when your tires turned while on the trailer it either broke something or wore some spline teeth out.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:30 PM
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What parts or area would be suspect if your steering wheel is locked and great external pressure on the front 2 tires cause the tires to actually turn about 15 degrees? I suspect this is what occurred while I was towing the car.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:33 PM
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^Ditto
Old 08-08-2010, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
Sounds like a spline either where the steering column meets the rack or the steering wheel mounts to the column (I dont think its the steering wheel to column)

Sounds like the steering was locked and when your tires turned while on the trailer it either broke something or wore some spline teeth out.
Another thing that may help is that when I turn the wheel, I can hear and actually feel the "clicks" on the steering wheel. Seems to be just coming out from right underneath the steering wheel where it is mounted. I haven't opened up anything yet. Are there gears there in that area? It may be in the steering wheel to column.

Any ideas with this new info?
Old 08-08-2010, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cancer_researcher
What parts or area would be suspect if your steering wheel is locked and great external pressure on the front 2 tires cause the tires to actually turn about 15 degrees? I suspect this is what occurred while I was towing the car.
Since whats broken/damaged is already broken/damaged i would have someone turn the wheel until it starts clicking and try to locate the source of the clicking. I think its either going to be where the column meets the rack, which is in the engine compartment just forward of the fire wall, or where the steering wheel mounts to the column, which would be right behind the airbag.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
Since whats broken/damaged is already broken/damaged i would have someone turn the wheel until it starts clicking and try to locate the source of the clicking. I think its either going to be where the column meets the rack, which is in the engine compartment just forward of the fire wall, or where the steering wheel mounts to the column, which would be right behind the airbag.
Does this are have gears? Plastic or metal? I wonder if those parts can be bought separately? Hopefully its not part of any complete assembly.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:39 PM
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I would remove the airbag to visually check if its the wheel to column spline. To remove the airbag you should first disconnect the battery (get your radio codes first and write down your presets) On the bottom side of the airbag there is a plastic cover that you can remove to access the connectors. Pop the cover off and disconnect the airbag connector. There are going to be 4 torx screws that need to be removed in order for you to remove the airbag. If I remember correctly, they are behind the 4 spokes of the steering wheel. Once you remove the screws pull the airbag toward you. This will reveal the mount bolt/nut (i forget what it is) it should be 14mm or 17mm. Break that loose and remove it and you should be able to see the splines.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by cancer_researcher
Does this are have gears? Plastic or metal? I wonder if those parts can be bought separately? Hopefully its not part of any complete assembly.
There isnt any gears, but the spline does have the cogs that a gear would have (just so you can get a better mental picture) Its made of metal not plastic and if the splines on the wheel are broken you would need to buy a new wheel, if the splines on the column are broken well..... then a new column would be in order.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
I would remove the airbag to visually check if its the wheel to column spline. To remove the airbag you should first disconnect the battery (get your radio codes first and write down your presets) On the bottom side of the airbag there is a plastic cover that you can remove to access the connectors. Pop the cover off and disconnect the airbag connector. There are going to be 4 torx screws that need to be removed in order for you to remove the airbag. If I remember correctly, they are behind the 4 spokes of the steering wheel. Once you remove the screws pull the airbag toward you. This will reveal the mount bolt/nut (i forget what it is) it should be 14mm or 17mm. Break that loose and remove it and you should be able to see the splines.
Thank you sir.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
There isnt any gears, but the spline does have the cogs that a gear would have (just so you can get a better mental picture) Its made of metal not plastic and if the splines on the wheel are broken you would need to buy a new wheel, if the splines on the column are broken well..... then a new column would be in order.
Thanks. If it turns out to be the worst case scenario (the column), I can probably buy a good used one from a junk yard, however, can I keep my same ignition or will I need a new ignition? (I guess from my question you can tell that I don't know a whole lot about cars)
Old 08-08-2010, 05:49 PM
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Also, would any Steering wheel from a 1999-03 fit? Mine is black. Are the mechanical features same in all these years?
Old 08-08-2010, 05:51 PM
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You should be able to keep the same ignition. And dont worry about your lack of car knowledge. Spend a few months in this forum and you will be an Acura TL mechanic..... unlicensed of course.


Let us know how it turns out.
Old 08-08-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cancer_researcher
Also, would any Steering wheel from a 1999-03 fit? Mine is black. Are the mechanical features same in all these years?
Any steering wheel from the TL will work, Its the airbags that will not work properly. 99-01 airbags are interchangeable and 02-03 airbags are interchangeable.

If its the wheel, go with a 02-03 type s wheel. You will like it much better then the premium model wheels.
Old 08-08-2010, 06:04 PM
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Looking at the service manual there are two torx screws on either side just below the headlight and the wiper handles on either side after you remove the upper and lower steering covers. The top pops loose by hand by pulling straight up, the lower has two screws I think.. The screws are sized T30 torx bit. There is a 2 pin connector to unplug. Should be yellow in color. All SRS connectors are yellow in color. Once airbag is removed unplug radio switch and cruise control switch connectors. Loosen the bolt in the center of the wheel.

After that according to the manual you will need a steering wheel puller to free the wheel from the column.

These are directions straight from the manual. I've never done this myself so maybe someone can say for sure if you need a puller or if there's another way of doing this.
Old 08-08-2010, 06:10 PM
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Oh yeah wait at least five minutes after disconnecting the battery to.start work when working on or around SRS components.
Old 08-08-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
Looking at the service manual there are two torx screws on either side just below the headlight and the wiper handles on either side after you remove the upper and lower steering covers. The top pops loose by hand by pulling straight up, the lower has two screws I think.. The screws are sized T30 torx bit. There is a 2 pin connector to unplug. Should be yellow in color. All SRS connectors are yellow in color. Once airbag is removed unplug radio switch and cruise control switch connectors. Loosen the bolt in the center of the wheel.

After that according to the manual you will need a steering wheel puller to free the wheel from the column.

These are directions straight from the manual. I've never done this myself so maybe someone can say for sure if you need a puller or if there's another way of doing this.
He wasnt trying to remove the wheel, but rather check for any signs of damage where the wheel meets the column. Either way, good post.

Another way to remove the wheel without having the puller is to loosen the mounting bolt until there is about a 1/4 inch of gap between the head of the bolt and the surface that it mates to. Grab the wheel with two hands and pull while rocking side to side slightly. Leaving the bolt in place keeps the wheel from coming off and smacking you in the face since you are pulling towards you. I know this is an unconventional way of removing the wheel, but i guarantee you that it works.
Old 08-08-2010, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
Looking at the service manual there are two torx screws on either side just below the headlight and the wiper handles on either side after you remove the upper and lower steering covers. The top pops loose by hand by pulling straight up, the lower has two screws I think.. The screws are sized T30 torx bit. There is a 2 pin connector to unplug. Should be yellow in color. All SRS connectors are yellow in color. Once airbag is removed unplug radio switch and cruise control switch connectors. Loosen the bolt in the center of the wheel.

After that according to the manual you will need a steering wheel puller to free the wheel from the column.

These are directions straight from the manual. I've never done this myself so maybe someone can say for sure if you need a puller or if there's another way of doing this.
Originally Posted by my.daily'tl'
Oh yeah wait at least five minutes after disconnecting the battery to.start work when working on or around SRS components.
Thank you!
Old 08-08-2010, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
You should be able to keep the same ignition. And dont worry about your lack of car knowledge. Spend a few months in this forum and you will be an Acura TL mechanic..... unlicensed of course.


Let us know how it turns out.
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
Any steering wheel from the TL will work, Its the airbags that will not work properly. 99-01 airbags are interchangeable and 02-03 airbags are interchangeable.

If its the wheel, go with a 02-03 type s wheel. You will like it much better then the premium model wheels.
Originally Posted by MurkyRiversTL
He wasnt trying to remove the wheel, but rather check for any signs of damage where the wheel meets the column. Either way, good post.

Another way to remove the wheel without having the puller is to loosen the mounting bolt until there is about a 1/4 inch of gap between the head of the bolt and the surface that it mates to. Grab the wheel with two hands and pull while rocking side to side slightly. Leaving the bolt in place keeps the wheel from coming off and smacking you in the face since you are pulling towards you. I know this is an unconventional way of removing the wheel, but i guarantee you that it works.
Thank you sir!
Old 08-08-2010, 09:31 PM
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look at the end travel stops for the steering rack before digging into the wheel

I stay with my original plan- take to to a pro for diagnosis
In the air they can see a lot more than you can on the ground
Old 08-08-2010, 10:02 PM
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It will take him 15 mins to check the steering wheel and he will have to wait until at least tomorrow to have it looked at by a mechanic. At least he will be able to eliminate that as a problem, or find out it is the problem.
Old 08-09-2010, 07:50 AM
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Hopefully I can take a look today and then report back. I had also bought cargo insurance from uhaul. Will call them today and see if they will cover it. Hope I don't get the runaround. Trailer and towing rental coverage Safetow® http://www.uhaul.com/protection/

What do you think? Will they cover it?
Old 08-09-2010, 08:28 AM
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Couldnt hurt to try. The worst they will say is "no"
Old 08-09-2010, 04:48 PM
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UPDATE: Got on my hands and knees and had someone to turn the steering all the way and then some to make it click. It is definitely coming from the bottom end. Couldn't see anything because the car is so low, however, I could also see and feel the tire vibrate with the click. Definitely something from the lower section. I asked a mechanic to come over and check it out so I hope he comes soon and tells me something.


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