New pads and rotors for 02 TL
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
New pads and rotors for 02 TL
Code:
Brake/Wheel Hub : Brake Pad RAYBESTOS Part # PGD536QS {QuietStop Super Premium Ceramic} Rear; OE Ceramic; Recommended Replacement $36.89 $0.00 $36.89 RAYBESTOS Part # PGD787QS {QuietStop Super Premium Ceramic} Front; OE Ceramic; Recommended Replacement $44.79 $0.00 $44.79 Brake/Wheel Hub : Rotor RAYBESTOS Part # 96795R {Professional Grade} Front $22.79 $0.00 $45.58 RAYBESTOS Part # 96849R {Professional Grade} Rear $11.32 $0.00 $22.64 Subtotal $149.90 Shipping $53.49 Total $203.89
Are the Raybestos "QuietStop" pads and "Professional Grade" rotors a good combo for a lightly driven, daily driver? My objective is to find a pad and rotor combination that will not suffer warpage for at least another 50k miles. The brake pad must also deliver low noise and long life. If you know of another pad and rotor combination that can meet my requirements and deliver equal or better performance at a better price, please let me know.
The Wagner ThermoQuiet or Raybestos PG Plus Ceramic pads will lower the total by about $20. Would either of those pads be a better choice in terms of noise and/or performance, or am I better off with the QuietStop pads? I really want to get this brake job right the first time, and not have any complaints.
Thanks.
#2
Hold the onions
Originally Posted by SodaLuvr
My buddy's 2002 TL has 86k miles and is exhibiting the infamous warped rotors syndrome.
Is it normal around that mileage for our cars? I'm 02 and near 86k and my steering wheel is shaking when braking from 70+mph. Time for rotor upgrade?
#3
No He Can't
iTrader: (2)
That shipping charge is outrageous... I went with an upgrade and went with slotted rotors up front (since they do all the stopping) and regular NAPA rotors in the rear. The rotors I got up front are Racingbrake and I got Hawk HPS pads all around.
The front slotted rotors and all four pads I got from a vendor on here, MrHeelToe, for $370 shipped. The rear rotors I picked up from a local NAPA for just under $40. So $410 for all parts and everything installed for $176.
They are actually doing this while I am out of town, as I will be in New York all weekend at a wedding. Can't wait to get home and try the new brakes out and bed them in. Also should have in Autoworks custom CAI. Then on to the LED dash conversion and under door handle LEDs.
The front slotted rotors and all four pads I got from a vendor on here, MrHeelToe, for $370 shipped. The rear rotors I picked up from a local NAPA for just under $40. So $410 for all parts and everything installed for $176.
They are actually doing this while I am out of town, as I will be in New York all weekend at a wedding. Can't wait to get home and try the new brakes out and bed them in. Also should have in Autoworks custom CAI. Then on to the LED dash conversion and under door handle LEDs.
#4
No He Can't
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by bud760
Is it normal around that mileage for our cars? I'm 02 and near 86k and my steering wheel is shaking when braking from 70+mph. Time for rotor upgrade?
#5
Hold the onions
Originally Posted by KSuchdeve
Yes, time for an upgrade. I think the mileage depends on the conditions that they were driven. Shaking in the steering wheel during braking is caused by warped rotors.
Sweet! Time to call up MrHeeltoe soon
#7
I vote for slotted ie: side vented rotors for the TL/CL cars
No need for cross drilled rotors
Love my HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com
they work well for the wife and me in the mountains or on track days
Excellerate has Brembo rotors and MrHeelToe carries RacingBrake brand
www.racingbrake.com has tech info on rotor construction so you can compare and make your choice
Great brakes keep your car from suddenly getting 2 feet shorter
See pics of my fun run brake test area post #164 of the link below
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=316102&page=7
No need for cross drilled rotors
Love my HAWK HPS pads www.hawkperformance.com
they work well for the wife and me in the mountains or on track days
Excellerate has Brembo rotors and MrHeelToe carries RacingBrake brand
www.racingbrake.com has tech info on rotor construction so you can compare and make your choice
Great brakes keep your car from suddenly getting 2 feet shorter
See pics of my fun run brake test area post #164 of the link below
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=316102&page=7
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Excelerate
Many members love the ROTORA Slotted Rotors. They are $165 for a front pair and $55 for some ROTORA ceramic pads plus shipping. PM me for pricing.
Love the Rotora Slotted. I have one set for the front with Akebono pads and I am getting the rear set with pads from Execerelate. Hope they arrive soon.
#9
Suzuka Master
I think the above combo is fine if you are driving your car normally and not like many of us on here. Although I'd still recommend going with a better rotor than raybestos. Perhaps US made Napa rotors (approx.$40ea) or Brembo blank O.E. replacement rotors (approx.$65-75each). For the price your paying for those raybestos pads you could get an even better satisfied pro ceramic pad from tirerack or many other on-line retailers. And lastly I'd say stand clear of those wagners. They are cheaply made and most likely not ceramic. The OE pads are semi-metallic, but ceramics tend grip slightly better and produce less dust. I've been using satisified pros on brembo blanks and have had no problems with either noise or dust on my 02 TL-P.
Anyhow, the raybestos pads aren't bad for a direct replacement, but I'm wary of their rotors as I warped a set on my old car within 15k miles, but I didn't always drive my old car "normally".
Anyhow, the raybestos pads aren't bad for a direct replacement, but I'm wary of their rotors as I warped a set on my old car within 15k miles, but I didn't always drive my old car "normally".
#10
The OE pads are Ceramic- thats why parts books all say use Ceramic replacement
They make less noise (in theory) and less dust because less grip
The Hawk pads and other similar are semi metallic- they grip better
make a little/some dust because they are working ( I drive very spirited), and I have no rude noises from mine.
If on a budget, I say NAPA American made- not the China ones- and Hawk HPS pads
That will make the car stop well in all conditions for a reasonable price
Later on- upgrade the rotors and you will appreciate the differance a few hundred dollars makes.
www.hawkperformance.com for tech info on pads
They make less noise (in theory) and less dust because less grip
The Hawk pads and other similar are semi metallic- they grip better
make a little/some dust because they are working ( I drive very spirited), and I have no rude noises from mine.
If on a budget, I say NAPA American made- not the China ones- and Hawk HPS pads
That will make the car stop well in all conditions for a reasonable price
Later on- upgrade the rotors and you will appreciate the differance a few hundred dollars makes.
www.hawkperformance.com for tech info on pads
#11
S E L L
Originally Posted by mcflyguy24
I think the above combo is fine if you are driving your car normally and not like many of us on here. Although I'd still recommend going with a better rotor than raybestos. Perhaps US made Napa rotors (approx.$40ea) or Brembo blank O.E. replacement rotors (approx.$65-75each). For the price your paying for those raybestos pads you could get an even better satisfied pro ceramic pad from tirerack or many other on-line retailers. And lastly I'd say stand clear of those wagners. They are cheaply made and most likely not ceramic. The OE pads are semi-metallic, but ceramics tend grip slightly better and produce less dust. I've been using satisified pros on brembo blanks and have had no problems with either noise or dust on my 02 TL-P.
Anyhow, the raybestos pads aren't bad for a direct replacement, but I'm wary of their rotors as I warped a set on my old car within 15k miles, but I didn't always drive my old car "normally".
Anyhow, the raybestos pads aren't bad for a direct replacement, but I'm wary of their rotors as I warped a set on my old car within 15k miles, but I didn't always drive my old car "normally".
#12
02 WDP type-S Navi
I just recently put a set of Raybestos PG Plus in the rears, with satisfied pro ceramic I think they were around the $30 range it was $70 somethings for both 2 rear rotors n pads shipped not bad can't complain no squeaks anymore. My rotora's in the front are actually warping, and don't know where in L.A. that they'd turn slotted rotors....
#13
Are you sure its rotor warp- as determined by checking runout
or do you have a shimmy under braking?
The calipers do fail and if the brake fluid was never flushed before- there can be crud in the system that ends up in a caliper- do an inspection by bleeding some fluid and look the rotors over for uneven wear across the rotor face
Another cause is -guessing you have hi performance front pads- is not getting the pads hot enough to clean glaze caused from low speed driving/traffic
You can do a hi speed re-bed and clean it off that way.
or do you have a shimmy under braking?
The calipers do fail and if the brake fluid was never flushed before- there can be crud in the system that ends up in a caliper- do an inspection by bleeding some fluid and look the rotors over for uneven wear across the rotor face
Another cause is -guessing you have hi performance front pads- is not getting the pads hot enough to clean glaze caused from low speed driving/traffic
You can do a hi speed re-bed and clean it off that way.
#16
02 WDP type-S Navi
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Are you sure its rotor warp- as determined by checking runout
or do you have a shimmy under braking?
The calipers do fail and if the brake fluid was never flushed before- there can be crud in the system that ends up in a caliper- do an inspection by bleeding some fluid and look the rotors over for uneven wear across the rotor face
Another cause is -guessing you have hi performance front pads- is not getting the pads hot enough to clean glaze caused from low speed driving/traffic
You can do a hi speed re-bed and clean it off that way.
or do you have a shimmy under braking?
The calipers do fail and if the brake fluid was never flushed before- there can be crud in the system that ends up in a caliper- do an inspection by bleeding some fluid and look the rotors over for uneven wear across the rotor face
Another cause is -guessing you have hi performance front pads- is not getting the pads hot enough to clean glaze caused from low speed driving/traffic
You can do a hi speed re-bed and clean it off that way.
Raybestos & stock rotor
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