So my '03 TL-P with 230,000 started running shotty and kept stalling at lights. Seemed like cylinders were misfiring...
At one intersection, I put it in neutral and tried to start it again and it backfired... loud... and never turned again.
Shop said it had leakage on a valve pressure test... Leading them to believe the timing jumped a belt cog...
This also means I may have bent rods...
They haven't even found out why it was running crappy to begin with...

The body is in sounds shape with visible stone hood dings... door dings... wrinkled door pillar tape... scratches...
Interior has a worn driver seat... plenty of dog hair/slobber... broken seat warmers...
Frame is great. I got new tires. A new wheel bearing. Keep up on tranny flushes. New sway bar end links. Various other things.

Do I get a new motor for it or do I say goodbye?

 

i say let her go. It has a tranny that could go anytime also.

 

Goodbye and hello to a TLX.

TLX seems to the answer to all questions on this forum From one bady tranny in the TL to a bad tranny in the TLX

 

The best advice I've ever gotten in a situation like this is: If you like the car, fix it. If you're getting a little tired of it, get rid of it. Your description of the car's condition makes me think you are ready to move on, but your mod list sounds like you're emotionally invested. It's your call, but I'd move on. However, from a pure financial perspective, you'll almost certainly spend a lot more to get a decent replacement.

 

you can get a good used engine from the junkyard/ auto recyclers and throw on the 105 tbelt parts kit- do a full service (valve adjust- cleaning egr etc) on the engine then drop it in

Where are you going to find another car as good condition as yours for 1500-2000 dollars (approx. cost of motor and install)

 

if the trans is suspect in any way- 20 dollars and 3 ounces of atf sent to Blackstone labs will tell if there are any issues in the trans

If so, a used accord trans is the trick replacement- $500-750 for used unit

 

Note: its the exhaust valves that bend under contact with the rising piston
when tbelt breaks or tensioner failure allows it to jump off timing.
very tight clearances inside!

 

If your trans is in good shape, I would lean towards replacing the engine. Although if it was mine I would just rebuild the trans as well when it starts going. It all depends on if you can get an engine for a good price and labor costs. Doing it yourself will be rewarding, but I wouldnt tackle a job like that unless you know what your doing. When you look for engines try to get a compression check on it to make sure its in good shape.

 

Curious- was the timing belt ever changed?
Tough call on replacing the engine. With the mileage on the car, everything else has that kind of mikeage too..unless you have already replaced suspension parts etc

 

As already said it's really your call, got to figure that if you replace the engine you're set to keep the car till the wheels fall off. If the trans is questionable get an AV6 and drop it in at the same time, I would get a J35A3, I got mine for $230 with 103K on it

 

First thing i would do is find a shop that can actually diagnose the problem. They should have inspected the timing belt to see if the timing is still on or not. When was the last time the timing belt was changed?

If mechanically the car is still sound, pick up a used motor. They can be found cheap. Motor failures on these motors is rare.

 

I have had no issues with the transmission, I replaced the timing belt at about 125,000 miles.
I am getting some quotes to replace the motor. I have found some online at a pretty good price.

 

call local auto dismantler and recycling- formerly junkyards
don't need to ship an engine- there are thousands of our cars with crash damage waiting to donate their engine

or if its out of town the yard will have it brought to them - their cost on shipping being a fraction of what the public would pay

kris- op mentioned `valve pressure` test failure (different name for cylinder leakdown test?)
I am guessing the shop did look at belt inspection port then verify terminal damage with a leakdown test-
at least one hopes a shop would do this!!

 

you don't need a rebuilt engine- these things are good for way longer than the average car.
If its got good compression- Yes, they are tested - throw on a 105 kit etc and enjoy

 

No, I'm not looking at a rebuilt engine... I found one I like out of a 2000 with 76,000. Not to step on toes, but I don't get how a car of this age can have so few miles...


I did want to run by everyone... What other maintenance should I pull the trigger on while the motor is out?
A couple that come to mind off the top of my head is timing kit & motor mounts.

 

I highly recommend the timing kit and engine mounts as well. In addition replace both crankshaft main seals. Also you could clean all the egr ports and passages, refresh the top with new valve cover gaskets and ngk iridium plugs. You could also check/replace your oil pan gasket. Im sure thers some other things too, but thats what I thought of.

 

You could just throw in a J35A3!

 

J35A3 would be a great replacement but the extra torque will give that tranny a rude awakening lol

 

OK, so where do I find out if the motor is a J35A3 or what my current motor is?

Thanks all

 

^ J35A3 comes from a different car altogether. Its a popular "Swap" Engine as it bolt-ons to your current car like a glove.
Your current motor is a J32A1.
J35 is a 3.5L Engine while your J32 is a 3.2L.

 

sure it can

my 2003 Legacy has only 75K on it and It had 61K when I bought it in April '14

engine and trans mounts
suspension rubber parts
drain and fill all fluids

 

So, to satiate my curiosity...
If a J35A3 were to be put into a TL... Would it need a new ECU? New sensors? Anything?

 

have you looked at the build threads, see one titled What am I up to now by fsttmys1
he has another, or several threads as his 00 has undergone a 6 speed and CL-s engine swap- then a 3.5 engine...now who knows! I suspect a supercharger is lurking in his future

 

I'm always surprised by these "should I fix it" threads. Why not use the issue as motivation for a new(er) vehicle. There is so much better technology out there today, it seems foolish to me for anyone driving a '03 TL to "fix her up."
Just consider for a second all the nasty crap that has settled under that front passenger seat. If you had a taco shell there's probably enough moldy stale shit under the seat to make Taco Bell treats for your enemies.

 

Not everyone can afford a new car payment and most times if not always its more financially intelligent to fix an older car. Dirty, grody, grimy interior so what? Nothing a good shampoo and vacuuming can't fix. Some people get attached to their car as they age with it so that also plays a key role in motivating them to fix it. Also that dealer mentality of having to buy a new/er car every so many years is long in the tooth and quite a waste of good money.

 

You will need what you already have! You can swap it and call it a day! OR you can swap a J32A2 Camshafts into the J35 (Easier to just swap in the whole J32A2 Heads into the J35) and you will have a terrific upgrade that the OEM TL-p ECU can handle pretty well or go the Extra mile and Swap the TL-S ECU for extra epicness in POWAH!


^ From that you can already guess this is a little expensive..
But the difference in power from your stock TL-p engine will be APOCALYPTIC! If the TL-p vs TL-S power is noticeable? The J35 will leave it in the dust.
You will have a 03 that can destroy many many late year new cars.