New Brakes are on

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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:01 PM
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New Brakes are on

Legend Calipers + Brakemotive crossdrilled and slotted rotors + pads




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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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Nice!!!
And Black Calipers thats how I like it.
Tough thats too much Chrome for my Taste, But hey! If you Like it.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Nice!!!
And Black Calipers thats how I like it.
Tough thats too much Chrome for my Taste, But hey! If you Like it.
Thank for the inspiration and tips. And actually I'm not a fan of chrome but since they are black chrome they look good especially at night they are dark plus I got them for a good price
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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follow the makers bedding instructions- it takes several times to get the pads and rotors fully mated to each other for 100% braking

did you do the ABS test? not really good to do on brand new brakes,,but..

the test per acura `after line has been opened`-to replace caliper as example
from 45mph do 2 ABS active stops
will probably need water or gravel to do this, and swerving back and forth wildly to lose traction- so the abs is forced to operate and pump against your foot

what happens is air manages to get into the abs controller and wont show itself in the normal bleed
Do the first stop to full stop and accellerate to 45,
repeat full effort abs active stop
if the 2nd time had a firmer/stiffer feel to the pedal = there was air
bleed system again and all is good

Next time you have the wheels off- paint the center of the rotors, may have to touch up th edges too
Use bbq 1200 degree paint

If you like the wheels, thats all that matters
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
follow the makers bedding instructions- it takes several times to get the pads and rotors fully mated to each other for 100% braking

did you do the ABS test? not really good to do on brand new brakes,,but..

the test per acura `after line has been opened`-to replace caliper as example
from 45mph do 2 ABS active stops
will probably need water or gravel to do this, and swerving back and forth wildly to lose traction- so the abs is forced to operate and pump against your foot

what happens is air manages to get into the abs controller and wont show itself in the normal bleed
Do the first stop to full stop and accellerate to 45,
repeat full effort abs active stop
if the 2nd time had a firmer/stiffer feel to the pedal = there was air
bleed system again and all is good

Next time you have the wheels off- paint the center of the rotors, may have to touch up th edges too
Use bbq 1200 degree paint

If you like the wheels, thats all that matters

I have not done the ABS test yet because I wanted to make sure they brake in first. Already did the manufacturs bed in procedure. I should not have to paint the center of the rotors because they are zinc plated to prevent rust. we will see how well it holds up but according to other people it has been. Plus my car is parked in a garage evey night so the only time it is outside is at work and school.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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The Zinc Plate wont hold up anything.. A couple of Heats and the Zinc Plate will fall off, My 3GDs where Zinc Plated didnt last a full beat up.

Thats why I re-painted them they still have the paint.
Just cover the Hats:

Notice how they have the Zinc Plate (Golden Color).
The E-Brake Drums is what Rusts the Most..

Last edited by Skirmich; Mar 13, 2012 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
The Zinc Plate wont hold up anything.. A couple of Heats and the Zinc Plate will fall off, My 3GDs where Zinc Plated didnt last a full beat up.

Thats why I re-painted them they still have the paint.
Just cover the Hats:

Notice how they have the Zinc Plate (Golden Color).
Dang, guess I will have something else to do once it starts wearing off
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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I Recommend for the Base:


Then:

For the Glossy Effect!


Installed:

Old Pic hehehe still with 1-pot.

Sorry if the Pics show up too Big, I re-sized them but dunno if its Displayed right.

Last edited by Skirmich; Mar 13, 2012 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
I Recommend for the Base:


Then:

For the Glossy Effect!


Installed:

Old Pic hehehe still with 1-pot.

Sorry if the Pics show up too Big, I re-sized them but dunno if its Displayed right.
Thanks looks good!!
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:46 AM
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It may take several times of bedding and 500 miles normal use to get the pads and rotors fully conditioned
When the crosshatch is worn off the rotors = now they are real brakes!

usually the 1st bedding just gets out the excess resins,, used in making the pads.
Now you want to wear all the hills and valleys into each other for full contact

Are you on SS brake lines yet? used DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid?
(NEVER DOT 5.0 = death to system)
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
It may take several times of bedding and 500 miles normal use to get the pads and rotors fully conditioned
When the crosshatch is worn off the rotors = now they are real brakes!

usually the 1st bedding just gets out the excess resins,, used in making the pads.
Now you want to wear all the hills and valleys into each other for full contact

Are you on SS brake lines yet? used DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid?
(NEVER DOT 5.0 = death to system)
I did the bed in procedure twice and the cross hatches nearly all gone If they are not completly. I didn't get stainless steel brake lines because I don't excessively use the brakes just need them every once in a while when I get on it. I will probably switch to SS lines after I replace the fluid again. I used Honda DOT 3 that is what was already in the car, I saw another post where you said not to use DOT5.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:21 PM
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DOT 5 is a NO GO.
DOT 5.1 is Compatible with Old DOTs 3/4 Systems with an Even Higher Boiling Point.

SS Lines will Improve feel with your new Legend Calipers Stephen! I recommend "Goodridge" Lines as they come with the BREMBO Gran Turismo BBK...
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
DOT 5 is a NO GO.
DOT 5.1 is Compatible with Old DOTs 3/4 Systems with an Even Higher Boiling Point.

SS Lines will Improve feel with your new Legend Calipers Stephen! I recommend "Goodridge" Lines as they come with the BREMBO Gran Turismo BBK...
Ill probably get them the next time I change the Fluid. Since im going to start running out of stuff to do to the car. Guess I'll get a second car at that time and work on it also
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
Thank for the inspiration and tips. And actually I'm not a fan of chrome but since they are black chrome they look good especially at night they are dark plus I got them for a good price
Black chrome-? Doesn't look at all like that.
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by totaledTL
Black chrome-? Doesn't look at all like that.
Yeah black chrome. Trust me I hated chrome wheels always liked polished silver wheels. I had cls wheels for the longest time then bent two of them so I got the 17"black chrome tsx aspec wheels but got a flat and when they repaired it they scratched the heck out of the wheel so I had them replace it. I needed new tires and found the 18s with tires and bought them and sold the old ones
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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SS lines are exactly what you want for those sudden massive 80-20mph decellerations,
the average driver encounters all too often

rubber lines expand under pressure,,losing pressure to the caliper piston = loss of braking torque
worse when the lines are hot from extensive use (fun runs) of course

Go open your hood and watch the line as helper pushes brake pedal- simulate bleeding line
Observe the expansion of the line- sitting there cold and not at max foot pressure

next, choose the vendor for lines! mrheeltoe and excelerate are good sources for info and products

note: your new brakes will continue to get better and better with use
the removal of rotor cross hatch is where the final bedding starts to happen
go do it again--with a good transfer layer of material after they are hot-hot
then 15 minutes cooling drive on the freeway
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
SS lines are exactly what you want for those sudden massive 80-20mph decellerations,
the average driver encounters all too often

rubber lines expand under pressure,,losing pressure to the caliper piston = loss of braking torque
worse when the lines are hot from extensive use (fun runs) of course

Go open your hood and watch the line as helper pushes brake pedal- simulate bleeding line
Observe the expansion of the line- sitting there cold and not at max foot pressure

next, choose the vendor for lines! mrheeltoe and excelerate are good sources for info and products

note: your new brakes will continue to get better and better with use
the removal of rotor cross hatch is where the final bedding starts to happen
go do it again--with a good transfer layer of material after they are hoti-hot
then 15 minutes cooling drive on the freeway
Cool thanks I'll do that on my way home from the library tonight.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
Yeah black chrome...
The pics in the first post?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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do you feel a difference with the Legend Calibers
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by totaledTL
The pics in the first post?
Those are the ones
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CAB NY
do you feel a difference with the Legend Calibers
It is hard to tell because I swapped the rotors and the pads at the same time. what I can say is my braking has greatly improved over OEM. Before when I would hit the brakes at 80+ i relly had none and the steering wheel would shake so bad I thought it was going to fall off
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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Yep same here!

I did my Legend Caliper with new Rotors + Yellow Stuffs...
What I can tell you is that Heavy Brake Somewhat Improved but the Real Gain was Brake Feel thats the amount of feel once you start light braking that was non-existant with the OEM Caliper you where braking or Not.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
Yep same here!

I did my Legend Caliper with new Rotors + Yellow Stuffs...
What I can tell you is that Heavy Brake Somewhat Improved but the Real Gain was Brake Feel thats the amount of feel once you start light braking that was non-existant with the OEM Caliper you where braking or Not.
That is true I didn't really noticed it until you pointed it out
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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OP, I love the wheels and the brakes look great behind them . I too have the brakemotive products and am extremely happy with them.

I opted not to paint the hats on the rotors because I have heard that the zinc on these is really durable, so you're not alone. If the need arises, it can be done.

Just one thing I was wondering....if you are getting a slight screeching/whining when applying the brakes lightly during verrry slow stops? I am but haven't heard of a similar problem. Not enough to make me love the product any less...just curious if you have had a similar issue.
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jjcudak
OP, I love the wheels and the brakes look great behind them . I too have the brakemotive products and am extremely happy with them.

I opted not to paint the hats on the rotors because I have heard that the zinc on these is really durable, so you're not alone. If the need arises, it can be done.

Just one thing I was wondering....if you are getting a slight screeching/whining when applying the brakes lightly during verrry slow stops? I am but haven't heard of a similar problem. Not enough to make me love the product any less...just curious if you have had a similar issue.
I did the first time I backed into the garage but not again. The only noise i have right now is a slight ticking which the company said will be there and start to go away some over time. I believe he said it was because they are slotted rotors. You can PM them or post and they will respond pretty quick to you.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:20 AM
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legend calipers give better brake torque and improve feel
by having two pistons distribute the pressure over the pad
and the extra finger on the outer side of caliper keeps pad deflection down
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 10:48 AM
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thanks
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:55 AM
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Where can one purchase the 'Legend' calipers (front & rear) for an 03' TL-S?
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:56 AM
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the rears are the same caliper as the TL and most other hondas of the 70s-2000s
no need to replace them unless you have an issue with crud in lines
then get TL rears

fronts are for a 1995 legend LS-C (coupe)
those have the piston sizes closest together -thats what we want
see anyone from rockauto to kragen/oreillys

I used the raybestos numbers frc10627 and frc10628
those come with a new mounting bracket--we grab the bolts and clips off it and throw the bracket back in the box --it wont fit the TL no matter how much it appears to-
I tried just to find out why!

others found the numbers for just the bare caliper--no bracket,,I am guessing they bought new hardware as a kit, or used the old stuff (bad idea-brake hardware should be replaced every pad change along with a fluid flush-especially on an upgrade like this)

the parts store is happy to get TL calipers back as the cores--a much larger market for selling them,, than some crazy fits only a few older years/models cars
Say nothing= just turn them in. calipers is all they care about being in the box,,
empty of fluid of course!! and in a ziplock never hurt
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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SS brake lines are well worth the $100 or so,,make the calipers work right all the time
stable pressure--no more `pedal falls away` when hot braking
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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I got them off Dave'sdiscountautoparts.com they were just under a hundred dollars for the two. The part numbers are FRC10627 and FRC10628
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nevTL
Where can one purchase the 'Legend' calipers (front & rear) for an 03' TL-S?
No need for Rears since our Car brakes more in the Front Calipers you only need the Fronts 2-Pot Legend Calipers.

The part numbers are FRC10627 and FRC10628.

Dont forget to Flush the System by the Book!
Also if you do SS Lines in all 4 Calipers you will feel an even better Upgrade on the Brakes.
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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I have been driving on the original 1 piston calipers for the past week or so and I must say there is quite a difference. I went to take my car in for an alignment and they called me and said my breaks were leaking a little ( the legend two piston calipers). I asked them if they could fix and they said not really since you did not have it done here. I went to pick up the car and they said just tighten it so I took it home looked under neath and it was leaking. So I went to tighten it and it was stripped out. I hit the brakes and fluid was pouring out. I had to swap the original calipers back on since I drive it everyday. When I took it in for the alignment I am pretty sure they messed with it and stripped it out since I had been driving it for a month prior and it was not leaking, not to mention when I was changing calipers I noticed it had different washers than the ones I put on. I called the manufacture and they sent me replacements and I sent them The messed up ones and will be putting the 2 POT back in next week since I repainted them this morning
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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Why would they mess up with brakes for an aligment?
You used the Original Banjo screw? or did you use an Aftermarket with SS lines? cuz sometimes they use a shorter banjo screw on some Aftermarket SS lines (Including my Goodridge Kit) I just re-used the OEM Banjo screw and used the Goodridge washers been fine for almost 2 years now?
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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Those brakes look awesome hiding behind the A-Specs
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich

Why would they mess up with brakes for an aligment?
You used the Original Banjo screw? or did you use an Aftermarket with SS lines? cuz sometimes they use a shorter banjo screw on some Aftermarket SS lines (Including my Goodridge Kit) I just re-used the OEM Banjo screw and used the Goodridge washers been fine for almost 2 years now?
It's the original banjo screw. I didn't clean them off to well cause I didn't want to mess up the paint. My mechanic said they probably saw a little brake fluid on their and though it was loose. They probably just tries to tighten it up for me and used an impact gun to tighten it and stripped it out. There were different washer then when me and a friend installed and nobody touched the car up to that point. But I called the place I ordered them from and was able to get them to replace them. So I paired them this morning and will reinstall next Tuesday. I did not install stainless steel brake lines yet. I will did so later
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mY sLOW UA6
Those brakes look awesome hiding behind the A-Specs
Thanks. I am going to get gunmetal ones next time which will make my fifth set of wheels on the car I get new wheels and tires everytime I need new tires and sell te old ones
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
Thanks. I am going to get gunmetal ones next time which will make my fifth set of wheels on the car I get new wheels and tires everytime I need new tires and sell te old ones
Must be nice lol, I'm still rocking the stockies. How much would you be lookinf for the wheels?
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mY sLOW UA6
Those brakes look awesome hiding behind the A-Specs
Originally Posted by mY sLOW UA6
Must be nice lol, I'm still rocking the stockies. How much would you be lookinf for the wheels?
The ones I have now?
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Stephen00TL
The ones I have now?
Ya, you said youll be getting rid of them when your tires are bald.
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