I got a question:

I'm going to replace the battery on my 99TL. I know that the navi and the radio may need to have codes punched in. But is there anything else I need to worry about?

Are there any computer codes that need to be retained?

 

U should be okay, u may need to reprogram ur homelink and memory seats ... not certain b/c i haven't had to disconnect by batt yet but its all i can think of.

Might as well get an Optima Red Top while ur at it.

 

From what I remember my programmed features all remained except what you mentioned. My memory for the garage still remained in tact.

 

the radio should be the only thing.,
yea get the optima redtop

 

If you don't have any aftermarket stereo or high current drawing mods / accessories get an Optima Redtop.

If you have an aftermarket stereo, etc, get an Optima Yellowtop.

 

Homelink stays memory seats go

 

99 TL's hve memory seats too? I didn't know that! I gotta double check on that tonight!

 

no the 99-00 dont have those!

 

uh oh, lets not get started on this .... yellow tops are good for 2nd batterties that will be used for deep cycles, that is almost being drained then fully charged over and over again ... might happen while ur hanging out in a parking lot or in a car show. And if its your only battery then ur in trouble if you almost drain it and might not be able to start your car. They wont do you any good if you only use ur stereo equipment mostly while driving.

Red tops are better for under the hood since they have 800CCA vs 750 from the yellow top. Red tops are not recommended for deep cycles though but if your only going to use one battery get the red top. get the yellow for 2nd battery.

 

so is it bad to have a deep cycle battery and not drain it?...cuase i have two batteries in my car and i doubt i ever really put any strain on it

 

Something I forgot to mention. They do sell systems that plug into your accessory socket (aka cigarette lighter) that will maintain your power at a low level and keep your settings while you replace your battery. As I remember them, they are inexpensive, so you might want to look into it.

 

So, back to my original question about the battery...

When I start the engine, it doesn't turn on as "quickly" as it used to. But if I start the car 5 minutes later vs. letting it sit overnight, it doesn't sound any different.

Any ideas? What should the correct voltage be?

 

I understand your logic, but I believe you would still be better off with a Deep Cycle if you had a relatively demanding stereo than just a Red Top even if you only employ one battery.

The Newer Yellow Tops have 900 CCA and 50% more in reserve charge to start your car.

IMO, it's more a matter of cost justification in conjunction with application. Yellow tops are more expensive than Red tops so you have to look at the application and see which choice makes more sense.

Red Tops were not meant for deep cycle and function optimally at an almost full charge (similar to normal car batteries). If you had a demanding stereo that periodically drew current from the battery either while running or parked, eventually you would degrade the performance of the battery. Mind you, the Red Tops will take a beating and also have a great 3 year warrantee. Before the Optima line, I killed 2 AC delco batteries and 1 Interstate in this fashion.

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Car batteries should read approx. 12.8 volts with full charge. The alternator charges at approx. 14.4 volts. When you turn off the ignition, the battery voltage will quickly drop to 13.x and slowly make it's way down to the battery's standing voltage. The battery should not drop too far below 12.5. If it's in the 11 volt mark, it definitely did not recieve a full charge or it's not holding a full charge any longer and may have trouble starting in cold weather.

My Yellow Top, almost fully drained, showed a voltage in the high 7volts. At this point, even the OEM alarm recieved no power. As a test, I wanted to see the minimum volts that the Yellow Top was able to turn the engine and start the car. Of course the alarm went off as soon as I started charging! The battery turned the starter at 9.4 volts (but no start) and was able to effectively start the car at approx. 10.4 volts. I only did this test once so I don't know how repetitive these results are but it was a practical test nonetheless... Outside temp was approx. -10 celcius or 14 fahrenheit.

 

Another option on the battery is the
Exide Orbital,also an AGM type...I put one in my T/A and it has worked well...
You can also get them online shipped to you for
around $50.00 less than retail...

Just a suggestion...

 

that means your battery is starting to get old. if a few min after you start it it starts normal, but if after a all night sit it cranks slower, your battery isnt holding a charge as good.

 

That's the rub: Whether I start the engine 5 mins later, or wait overnight, it sounds the same.

Also, I *think* I can smell a slight sulfer (rotten egg) smell when the car starts. Don't know if this has any bearing though.

 

I put in a new battery, and it solved all the problems. Car starts up very quickly now.