Needing Help
#1
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Needing Help
Posted before but didn't get much help, then i ran into some family emergencies so i couldn't take it in to get checked out.
Problem: My fan doesn't come at all (not even when i turn the car off), it use to when it was cold and i would let my car warm while I got ready. I could hear it coming on for a while then turn off..
But lately I haven't noticed it at all, and if i sit for a while as if in a packed drive-thru or just plain sitting in drive with my brakes applied (traffic or long lights). The temp will start to go up. Then it would go down once i started driving and air was flow through everything. (The time varies, sometimes it's 2 mins and sometimes it's 5 mins)
I had my radiator flushed and refilled about 2 months ago (Performed after I had to get a new radiator cap) and my fan was still operating. I've also noticed the overflow tank, is empty.. was full a week ago but yesterday it was completely empty and the engine was cool.
I'm confused here and would like to try and get this fixed myself if it's possible before taking it in and handing over an arm and leg
Problem: My fan doesn't come at all (not even when i turn the car off), it use to when it was cold and i would let my car warm while I got ready. I could hear it coming on for a while then turn off..
But lately I haven't noticed it at all, and if i sit for a while as if in a packed drive-thru or just plain sitting in drive with my brakes applied (traffic or long lights). The temp will start to go up. Then it would go down once i started driving and air was flow through everything. (The time varies, sometimes it's 2 mins and sometimes it's 5 mins)
I had my radiator flushed and refilled about 2 months ago (Performed after I had to get a new radiator cap) and my fan was still operating. I've also noticed the overflow tank, is empty.. was full a week ago but yesterday it was completely empty and the engine was cool.
I'm confused here and would like to try and get this fixed myself if it's possible before taking it in and handing over an arm and leg
#2
ck all the hose clamps are tight- no obvious leaks
next verify the rubber hose is attached inside the res/overflow bottle CAP
if thats not there- has fallen into the bottle- the system wont work and causes several problems, must fit tight on its nozzle
top off radiator if needed
fill the res to COLD level
May have had the heater closed when rad work done - be sure its set to max hot with key ON, then key off and do your bleeding of air bubbles, fan will run a few times as part of that
There is a lengthy/ ~15 minute specific procedure for our cars- maybe that wasnt done right
fan is possibly fan temp sensor - located either on bottem passenger side corner of radiator- it screws in and has a wire to it
Or located at the thermostat on top of engine
May also be from low coolant level from improper burping procedure- that will fake out the fan operating sensor
Get this fixed asap - any temp over halfway is bad
easy DIY
next verify the rubber hose is attached inside the res/overflow bottle CAP
if thats not there- has fallen into the bottle- the system wont work and causes several problems, must fit tight on its nozzle
top off radiator if needed
fill the res to COLD level
May have had the heater closed when rad work done - be sure its set to max hot with key ON, then key off and do your bleeding of air bubbles, fan will run a few times as part of that
There is a lengthy/ ~15 minute specific procedure for our cars- maybe that wasnt done right
fan is possibly fan temp sensor - located either on bottem passenger side corner of radiator- it screws in and has a wire to it
Or located at the thermostat on top of engine
May also be from low coolant level from improper burping procedure- that will fake out the fan operating sensor
Get this fixed asap - any temp over halfway is bad
easy DIY
#4
so you have operation of the driver side fan with temp needs- and the guage sits just below half all the time now- is that correct
did you burp the system -just to be sure
thats another cause of tricking fan into not working- air bubble behind thermostat
did you burp the system -just to be sure
thats another cause of tricking fan into not working- air bubble behind thermostat
#5
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Yea, I can feel/hear when it comes on now. I actually had a shop do it, but my mechanic owns the exact same car so I'm pretty sure he did burp the system. If I notice anything though, ill burp the system myself..
#6
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What i thought was the fan coming on, wasn't. It probably was coming on that day, but today while driving the temp started to rise again. And I didn't notice the fan come on and even after getting home the fan didn't come on after the car was off. (I didn't let the temp. go another notch above half way after i noticed it start rising)
I can test my fans by connecting them to a 12v power source? how straight forward is that?
I don't have owners manual, so what are the specific steps to burping the system?
And In these pictures i took, is that the ECT sensor?
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I can test my fans by connecting them to a 12v power source? how straight forward is that?
I don't have owners manual, so what are the specific steps to burping the system?
And In these pictures i took, is that the ECT sensor?
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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#7
This is how i would do to check for the fan operation. I would connect an inline fuse like 5 amp to the power wire ,just in case if you probe into the ground wire, it will just pop the fuse and won't take out any thing else. Locate the fan connector, the hot wire should be in brighter color, probe into it the fan should come on.
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#9
do a search of azine gen2 for burping- I know we have copied the instructions to a thread or ten
#10
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Make sure all your fluids are topped off. Then there is a fan switch (cant remember off the top of my head where its located, but i think its on the front of the motor right side? )
#11
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This is how i would do to check for the fan operation. I would connect an inline fuse like 5 amp to the power wire ,just in case if you probe into the ground wire, it will just pop the fuse and won't take out any thing else. Locate the fan connector, the hot wire should be in brighter color, probe into it the fan should come on.
turn on the A/C , fans should come on
then work from there
#13
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iTrader: (4)
ck all the hose clamps are tight- no obvious leaks
next verify the rubber hose is attached inside the res/overflow bottle CAP
if thats not there- has fallen into the bottle- the system wont work and causes several problems, must fit tight on its nozzle
top off radiator if needed
fill the res to COLD level
May have had the heater closed when rad work done - be sure its set to max hot with key ON, then key off and do your bleeding of air bubbles, fan will run a few times as part of that
There is a lengthy/ ~15 minute specific procedure for our cars- maybe that wasnt done right
fan is possibly fan temp sensor - located either on bottem passenger side corner of radiator- it screws in and has a wire to it
Or located at the thermostat on top of engine
May also be from low coolant level from improper burping procedure- that will fake out the fan operating sensor
Get this fixed asap - any temp over halfway is bad
easy DIY
next verify the rubber hose is attached inside the res/overflow bottle CAP
if thats not there- has fallen into the bottle- the system wont work and causes several problems, must fit tight on its nozzle
top off radiator if needed
fill the res to COLD level
May have had the heater closed when rad work done - be sure its set to max hot with key ON, then key off and do your bleeding of air bubbles, fan will run a few times as part of that
There is a lengthy/ ~15 minute specific procedure for our cars- maybe that wasnt done right
fan is possibly fan temp sensor - located either on bottem passenger side corner of radiator- it screws in and has a wire to it
Or located at the thermostat on top of engine
May also be from low coolant level from improper burping procedure- that will fake out the fan operating sensor
Get this fixed asap - any temp over halfway is bad
easy DIY
x2, had that today, but the issue was that the fans went into a self-protect mode though, and just stayed on at like med. speed, and never turned of
but withen like us opening the bleed screw on the radiator, and putting more coolant in it, it cleared up lol
#14
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how long would it take the a/c controlled fan to come on? just getting off work, and when i got home I parked, popped the hood and turned the a/c and waited.... Like 5 minutes went by and nothing happened, My temp started going up so i shut the car off.
One thing i noticed is that (hope you guys understand this). You know when you run a/c or a fan comes on, your car's engine reacts to it (or something reacts to it) to provide the first initial power to start the fan. I noticed that happen but no fan still...
One thing i noticed is that (hope you guys understand this). You know when you run a/c or a fan comes on, your car's engine reacts to it (or something reacts to it) to provide the first initial power to start the fan. I noticed that happen but no fan still...
#15
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you mean the increased idle to compensate for the increased load by the fans???
but yeah the fans should be coming on basically immediately (maybe 5 seconds at MAX) when the a/c turns on
so i think you got an issue with the output side from the fan module/ecu, and being able to actually turn on the fans (the ecu is seeing the command for the fans though, by bumping the idle)
but yeah the fans should be coming on basically immediately (maybe 5 seconds at MAX) when the a/c turns on
so i think you got an issue with the output side from the fan module/ecu, and being able to actually turn on the fans (the ecu is seeing the command for the fans though, by bumping the idle)
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somebody understood what i was saying.. hahah!! but its a 2000. the a/c did blow cold for 2 of the 5 mins but i guess without that fan going it went warm
#18
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yeah was not totally sure if that is what you meant, lol
even better that you did say that the a/c was blowing cold, cause it shows that it does work, but yeah if no airflow across the condenser, no way to get rid of the heat efficiently
but one sec please, let me look at a wiring diagram
even better that you did say that the a/c was blowing cold, cause it shows that it does work, but yeah if no airflow across the condenser, no way to get rid of the heat efficiently
but one sec please, let me look at a wiring diagram
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can't see the picture!
#26
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but we can also start somewhere else too, with the car in the run position on the key (idiot lights on, but engine off), turn the a/c on, the fans should still kick on, if everything was good
then go to the fuse/relay box on the passenger/right side strut tower (that rectangle box), pull out the condensor fan relay, and also the radiator fan relay (it should be labeled on the top), then plug them back in, do you feel/hear them clicking once you put them back in
then report back lol
but all i am trying to do is break the system down into sections, with easily checked components
then go to the fuse/relay box on the passenger/right side strut tower (that rectangle box), pull out the condensor fan relay, and also the radiator fan relay (it should be labeled on the top), then plug them back in, do you feel/hear them clicking once you put them back in
then report back lol
but all i am trying to do is break the system down into sections, with easily checked components
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but we can also start somewhere else too, with the car in the run position on the key (idiot lights on, but engine off), turn the a/c on, the fans should still kick on, if everything was good
then go to the fuse/relay box on the passenger/right side strut tower (that rectangle box), pull out the condensor fan relay, and also the radiator fan relay (it should be labeled on the top), then plug them back in, do you feel/hear them clicking once you put them back in
then report back lol
but all i am trying to do is break the system down into sections, with easily checked components
then go to the fuse/relay box on the passenger/right side strut tower (that rectangle box), pull out the condensor fan relay, and also the radiator fan relay (it should be labeled on the top), then plug them back in, do you feel/hear them clicking once you put them back in
then report back lol
but all i am trying to do is break the system down into sections, with easily checked components
even in "run" and a/c on the fan didn't come on.. pulled relays and firmly pushed them back in (no click or anything but i FIRMLY pushed them in). Tried "run" again with a/c and still nothing
#31
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anyways did you happen to do anything in the center console recently (when the fans stopped), such as put in a new radio or something along those lines
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ok then, it sounds like you got a power issue to the control side of the relays then, (or a gounding issue, which btw is the fan control module)
anyways did you happen to do anything in the center console recently (when the fans stopped), such as put in a new radio or something along those lines
anyways did you happen to do anything in the center console recently (when the fans stopped), such as put in a new radio or something along those lines
#33
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but one sec please and let me go take a picture, and put on where i want you to measure the voltage on it, one sec please
#34
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please fill in each line
sorry not the best picture, and those are the fans relays btw
and for the red lines, please put with the second lead connected to the positive post of the battery
then on the blue lines with it connected to the negetive post of the battery
also do it with the car on, and the ac on also please
then those additional bigger terminals, if you jumper them together, the each fan should turn on respectively
so jumper them, but i don't think that is your issue though, it's more of an control issue i think, but if they turn on, that rules out that side of the circuit, since the fans would still be working
sorry not the best picture, and those are the fans relays btw
and for the red lines, please put with the second lead connected to the positive post of the battery
then on the blue lines with it connected to the negetive post of the battery
also do it with the car on, and the ac on also please
then those additional bigger terminals, if you jumper them together, the each fan should turn on respectively
so jumper them, but i don't think that is your issue though, it's more of an control issue i think, but if they turn on, that rules out that side of the circuit, since the fans would still be working
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then go to the fuse/relay box on the passenger/right side strut tower (that rectangle box), pull out the condensor fan relay, and also the radiator fan relay (it should be labeled on the top), then plug them back in, do you feel/hear them clicking once you put them back in
the other things i'm gonna do after class tomorrow
#36
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so now , basically do the same thing as above, but on those big terminals now, then also disconnect the fans (right on top of the fan itself) and measure the voltage on both wires while touching both the positive and negative terminals at separate times
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if so, then it is NOT a control issue, it is a power supply issue (or grounding) to the fans themselves
so now , basically do the same thing as above, but on those big terminals now, then also disconnect the fans (right on top of the fan itself) and measure the voltage on both wires while touching both the positive and negative terminals at separate times
so now , basically do the same thing as above, but on those big terminals now, then also disconnect the fans (right on top of the fan itself) and measure the voltage on both wires while touching both the positive and negative terminals at separate times
i tried jumping them to the battery like piggylover said but got no response.
when i'm jumping the relays, its the bigger terminals to the left. Am i pretty much taking a jumper wire into both those terminals?
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back to square one i guess also, i'm not getting any response from the relays when i'm putting them back in.
and when checking voltage at the plugs on top the fans, i'm not getting anything there either