NEED OIL CHANGE! Whats the best oil for a 99TL?
#41
Instructor
OK oil expert
Originally Posted by brakejobhelp
Mobil I and Amsoil are regarded as a Group IV oil, some say they are mixed with group V oils, who knows...
Redline oil is a Group V oil Only...
downside: its so fucking expensive...
redline also uses the most moylbendium than any other oil, and the polyol ester base stocks are considered the best (and most expensive)
redline's friction (or lack thereof) has shown the highest increase in horsepower in engines (3%)
redline oil is like a high value sports car. not a lot of advertising, and no marketing saturation like other motor oils, and no care for market pricing... just high quality oil for those who can afford it...
<-- puts on flame suit
Redline oil is a Group V oil Only...
downside: its so fucking expensive...
redline also uses the most moylbendium than any other oil, and the polyol ester base stocks are considered the best (and most expensive)
redline's friction (or lack thereof) has shown the highest increase in horsepower in engines (3%)
redline oil is like a high value sports car. not a lot of advertising, and no marketing saturation like other motor oils, and no care for market pricing... just high quality oil for those who can afford it...
<-- puts on flame suit
#42
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MoS2 is the earlier form of moly used as an AW additive. It works nicely except that it is a solid suspended in the oil and can settle out - not so well suited for use in motor oil. It still has its uses in gear lubes, etc.
Moly used in motor oil today is usually in the soluble organic form: MoDTC and is used primarily as a FM additive with some anti-oxidant properties; at higher levels, it starts to behave more like an AW additive.
The high moly content is at least one of the reasons Honda describes its factory fill oil as "special" (EM blends it up for them). You don't have to buy oil from the dealer to get an oil with high amounts of moly either, Chevron Supreme and RedLine typically have high amounts of Mo; Mobil 1 contains Mo at lower levels and works nicely in Honda engines too. I use M1 and add a little bit more Mo.
There are excellent oils that contain no Mo that will work fine in Honda engines to i.e.: German Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, etc.
Just choose a good oil and filter and change it regularly. Watch your oil consumption, oil condition, gas mileage, etc. If you have no issues then continue to use that oil/filter combination otherwise try a different oil. The oils available now are so good and Honda engines are so well built that your car will fall apart long before you have oil related engine problems.
Moly used in motor oil today is usually in the soluble organic form: MoDTC and is used primarily as a FM additive with some anti-oxidant properties; at higher levels, it starts to behave more like an AW additive.
The high moly content is at least one of the reasons Honda describes its factory fill oil as "special" (EM blends it up for them). You don't have to buy oil from the dealer to get an oil with high amounts of moly either, Chevron Supreme and RedLine typically have high amounts of Mo; Mobil 1 contains Mo at lower levels and works nicely in Honda engines too. I use M1 and add a little bit more Mo.
There are excellent oils that contain no Mo that will work fine in Honda engines to i.e.: German Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, etc.
Just choose a good oil and filter and change it regularly. Watch your oil consumption, oil condition, gas mileage, etc. If you have no issues then continue to use that oil/filter combination otherwise try a different oil. The oils available now are so good and Honda engines are so well built that your car will fall apart long before you have oil related engine problems.
#43
Mobil1 & Amsoil are both a blend of group IV & V. Back in the 70's & 80's amsoil was a group IV then when Mobil1 came out with a syntetic they were to. The problem with group IV synthetics is that they would shrink gaskets and create leaks. Group V on the other hand swells gaskets. So to create a better syntetic they blended the two groups so that one would counterbalance the other.
#44
El Presidente
Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
I am a complicated individual but thanks for the opinion and comment
Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
Some people have long usernames and some have a short one but yes, thank you for pointing it out. Do you have a suggested user name I should use???
Easy bro, i was just messin around and havin' a lil fun, sorry if i offended you.
#45
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by brakejobhelp
maybe im just crazy because i shell out 35 bucks in oil alone
and i change it every 3000 miles
and i change it every 3000 miles
#47
Originally Posted by dvsxlt247
I went and had the Mobil 1 5W30 put in and i love it. The car does run smoother and idles alot better now.
#48
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by MikePA
Could someone explain how changing the oil causes a car to 'run smoother and idle better'?
#52
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by samkws
i put amsoil and it runs so gd on the track, no matter how hard i push it
#55
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Nah.. I used Mobil1 5w20 and my engine blew up.
#57
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Try Amsoil's octane booster... it might help the transmission shift smoother and last longer.
#58
Dragging knees in
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
you know where i can find that stuff??
They used to sell it there, but I don't see it anymore. Might want to give them a call.
#59
Senior Moderator
cool! ill have to give them a call!
#60
:brakejob:
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Waste of money. even the good ol regular dino oil can las longer than that. (hell if the manual and car state 7500 intervals why change it sooner. get it tested at your next oil change and see how much TBN is left in it. my last one at 15k miles on the oil had like a 3.2 which is very good and can go even longer between change intervals. and my engine has 185k on it and shes still running strong (tranny on the otherhand not so good)
#61
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by brakejobhelp
i think your tranny is doing *all* of the failing for your car.... is this 4th within the 12k?
#62
Instructor
Thanks for your input
Originally Posted by TLMugen
MoS2 is the earlier form of moly used as an AW additive. It works nicely except that it is a solid suspended in the oil and can settle out - not so well suited for use in motor oil. It still has its uses in gear lubes, etc.
Moly used in motor oil today is usually in the soluble organic form: MoDTC and is used primarily as a FM additive with some anti-oxidant properties; at higher levels, it starts to behave more like an AW additive.
The high moly content is at least one of the reasons Honda describes its factory fill oil as "special" (EM blends it up for them). You don't have to buy oil from the dealer to get an oil with high amounts of moly either, Chevron Supreme and RedLine typically have high amounts of Mo; Mobil 1 contains Mo at lower levels and works nicely in Honda engines too. I use M1 and add a little bit more Mo.
There are excellent oils that contain no Mo that will work fine in Honda engines to i.e.: German Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, etc.
Just choose a good oil and filter and change it regularly. Watch your oil consumption, oil condition, gas mileage, etc. If you have no issues then continue to use that oil/filter combination otherwise try a different oil. The oils available now are so good and Honda engines are so well built that your car will fall apart long before you have oil related engine problems.
Moly used in motor oil today is usually in the soluble organic form: MoDTC and is used primarily as a FM additive with some anti-oxidant properties; at higher levels, it starts to behave more like an AW additive.
The high moly content is at least one of the reasons Honda describes its factory fill oil as "special" (EM blends it up for them). You don't have to buy oil from the dealer to get an oil with high amounts of moly either, Chevron Supreme and RedLine typically have high amounts of Mo; Mobil 1 contains Mo at lower levels and works nicely in Honda engines too. I use M1 and add a little bit more Mo.
There are excellent oils that contain no Mo that will work fine in Honda engines to i.e.: German Castrol Syntec, Amsoil, etc.
Just choose a good oil and filter and change it regularly. Watch your oil consumption, oil condition, gas mileage, etc. If you have no issues then continue to use that oil/filter combination otherwise try a different oil. The oils available now are so good and Honda engines are so well built that your car will fall apart long before you have oil related engine problems.
#63
Instructor
OK Dark Inspire
Originally Posted by dark inspire
Easy bro, i was just messin around and havin' a lil fun, sorry if i offended you.
#64
Instructor
Definitely a more smoothier running engine.
Originally Posted by dvsxlt247
I went and had the Mobil 1 5W30 put in and i love it. The car does run smoother and idles alot better now.
#65
Instructor
Mobil one is Premium Synthetic Oil
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Nah.. I used Mobil1 5w20 and my engine blew up.
1) Didn't change the oil
2) Drove the car too hard and beyond what Acura intended the TL to do
3) Too many miles on the motor
4) Ran the car too hot and warped the aluminum head to blow out the head
gasket
5) Car is not intended to be raced on race tracks
6) Redlining the motor into the red zone and beyond
7) Abusive driving habits
8) Too many mods, thus putting too much mechanical strain on the motor.
9) Poor maintenance schedule and habits
10) Supercharged, turboed or NOX moddifications.
#66
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Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
Thanks for your input. Seems to coincide with what I have found. Have you heard of Lubro-Moly products? Made in Germany for BMW, Mercedes and Porsche's. Here's the website for their products. www.liquimoly.de
I'm aware of these products and from the VOAs I've seen, they don't seem to have a lot of moly in them, "Moly" is just a name. They're excellent oils but if you're buying them thinking you're gettting a high moly oil, you're better off looking elsewhere.
I spike my M1 with, you guessed it, Mugen MT-105 moly additive (it's a MoDTC concentrate). I just add a portion of the bottle, only a couple mLs, and it boosts up the moly level nicely. Mobil 1 usually runs between 60 and 80 ppm moly, my last UOA of spiked M1 showed 501 ppm moly (I think Honda oil runs about 300 ppm Mo). An alternative moly additive to consider is Torco MPZ, which reportedly contains moly at over 7000 ppm so you only need a little to boost M1 (or other oils) past even Honda oil levels. I'm going to try MPZ in my next oil change.
I know there's probably no need to go this far with the additives since millions of Hondas do just fine without them but that's just my prerogative. I'm one of those old school moly people.
BTW - More and more oils are using higher amounts of moly these days (even Amsoil will probably using Mo in their oils). Previously, it wasn't used as much because of cost. Now, with the newer, tougher oil specs, Mo is making a comeback.
Sorry for the long post.
#67
Instructor
Thanks for your input TL Mugen
Originally Posted by TLMugen
Cool, no problem.
I'm aware of these products and from the VOAs I've seen, they don't seem to have a lot of moly in them, "Moly" is just a name. They're excellent oils but if you're buying them thinking you're gettting a high moly oil, you're better off looking elsewhere.
I spike my M1 with, you guessed it, Mugen MT-105 moly additive (it's a MoDTC concentrate). I just add a portion of the bottle, only a couple mLs, and it boosts up the moly level nicely. Mobil 1 usually runs between 60 and 80 ppm moly, my last UOA of spiked M1 showed 501 ppm moly (I think Honda oil runs about 300 ppm Mo). An alternative moly additive to consider is Torco MPZ, which reportedly contains moly at over 7000 ppm so you only need a little to boost M1 (or other oils) past even Honda oil levels. I'm going to try MPZ in my next oil change.
I know there's probably no need to go this far with the additives since millions of Hondas do just fine without them but that's just my prerogative. I'm one of those old school moly people.
BTW - More and more oils are using higher amounts of moly these days (even Amsoil will probably using Mo in their oils). Previously, it wasn't used as much because of cost. Now, with the newer, tougher oil specs, Mo is making a comeback.
Sorry for the long post.
I'm aware of these products and from the VOAs I've seen, they don't seem to have a lot of moly in them, "Moly" is just a name. They're excellent oils but if you're buying them thinking you're gettting a high moly oil, you're better off looking elsewhere.
I spike my M1 with, you guessed it, Mugen MT-105 moly additive (it's a MoDTC concentrate). I just add a portion of the bottle, only a couple mLs, and it boosts up the moly level nicely. Mobil 1 usually runs between 60 and 80 ppm moly, my last UOA of spiked M1 showed 501 ppm moly (I think Honda oil runs about 300 ppm Mo). An alternative moly additive to consider is Torco MPZ, which reportedly contains moly at over 7000 ppm so you only need a little to boost M1 (or other oils) past even Honda oil levels. I'm going to try MPZ in my next oil change.
I know there's probably no need to go this far with the additives since millions of Hondas do just fine without them but that's just my prerogative. I'm one of those old school moly people.
BTW - More and more oils are using higher amounts of moly these days (even Amsoil will probably using Mo in their oils). Previously, it wasn't used as much because of cost. Now, with the newer, tougher oil specs, Mo is making a comeback.
Sorry for the long post.
#68
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Originally Posted by TLMugen
Cool, no problem.
I'm aware of these products and from the VOAs I've seen, they don't seem to have a lot of moly in them, "Moly" is just a name. They're excellent oils but if you're buying them thinking you're gettting a high moly oil, you're better off looking elsewhere.
I spike my M1 with, you guessed it, Mugen MT-105 moly additive (it's a MoDTC concentrate). I just add a portion of the bottle, only a couple mLs, and it boosts up the moly level nicely. Mobil 1 usually runs between 60 and 80 ppm moly, my last UOA of spiked M1 showed 501 ppm moly (I think Honda oil runs about 300 ppm Mo). An alternative moly additive to consider is Torco MPZ, which reportedly contains moly at over 7000 ppm so you only need a little to boost M1 (or other oils) past even Honda oil levels. I'm going to try MPZ in my next oil change.
I know there's probably no need to go this far with the additives since millions of Hondas do just fine without them but that's just my prerogative. I'm one of those old school moly people.
BTW - More and more oils are using higher amounts of moly these days (even Amsoil will probably using Mo in their oils). Previously, it wasn't used as much because of cost. Now, with the newer, tougher oil specs, Mo is making a comeback.
Sorry for the long post.
I'm aware of these products and from the VOAs I've seen, they don't seem to have a lot of moly in them, "Moly" is just a name. They're excellent oils but if you're buying them thinking you're gettting a high moly oil, you're better off looking elsewhere.
I spike my M1 with, you guessed it, Mugen MT-105 moly additive (it's a MoDTC concentrate). I just add a portion of the bottle, only a couple mLs, and it boosts up the moly level nicely. Mobil 1 usually runs between 60 and 80 ppm moly, my last UOA of spiked M1 showed 501 ppm moly (I think Honda oil runs about 300 ppm Mo). An alternative moly additive to consider is Torco MPZ, which reportedly contains moly at over 7000 ppm so you only need a little to boost M1 (or other oils) past even Honda oil levels. I'm going to try MPZ in my next oil change.
I know there's probably no need to go this far with the additives since millions of Hondas do just fine without them but that's just my prerogative. I'm one of those old school moly people.
BTW - More and more oils are using higher amounts of moly these days (even Amsoil will probably using Mo in their oils). Previously, it wasn't used as much because of cost. Now, with the newer, tougher oil specs, Mo is making a comeback.
Sorry for the long post.
#69
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
Nothing wrong with Mobil1 5W20 synthetic oil. The reason why the engine blew up has more to do with the owner/operator of the vehicle. Top ten reasons why the engine blew up:
He (and i above) were joking
#70
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Originally Posted by muffaburn
Where can I get these additives? Met ya at the meet at perimeter mall (tall black guy with the anthracite TL)
Well the Mugen MT105 I got from Kingmotorsports and as you can imagine it's pricey which is one of the reasons I was frugal with its use (1 bottle lasted 4 oil changes). I decided to try the Torco MPZ as it's a lot cheaper. Now I can't remember where I bought the Torco MPZ online (it's been about a year now) but just do a search and you'll find places that sell it.
With both of these additives, the recommended dose is the whole bottle with each oil change. To me that's a little too much. I boost up the moly nicely with just a little added to the oil.
#72
Instructor
Does moly work?
Originally Posted by TLMugen
Hey muffaburn, I remember you from the meet.
Well the Mugen MT105 I got from Kingmotorsports and as you can imagine it's pricey which is one of the reasons I was frugal with its use (1 bottle lasted 4 oil changes). I decided to try the Torco MPZ as it's a lot cheaper. Now I can't remember where I bought the Torco MPZ online (it's been about a year now) but just do a search and you'll find places that sell it.
With both of these additives, the recommended dose is the whole bottle with each oil change. To me that's a little too much. I boost up the moly nicely with just a little added to the oil.
Well the Mugen MT105 I got from Kingmotorsports and as you can imagine it's pricey which is one of the reasons I was frugal with its use (1 bottle lasted 4 oil changes). I decided to try the Torco MPZ as it's a lot cheaper. Now I can't remember where I bought the Torco MPZ online (it's been about a year now) but just do a search and you'll find places that sell it.
With both of these additives, the recommended dose is the whole bottle with each oil change. To me that's a little too much. I boost up the moly nicely with just a little added to the oil.
Does moly really work? How long is it suppose to last in the engine? Notice any significant performance improvement? Any detrimental effects like Teflon?
#73
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
Hey TLMugen,
Does moly really work? How long is it suppose to last in the engine? Notice any significant performance improvement? Any detrimental effects like Teflon?
Does moly really work? How long is it suppose to last in the engine? Notice any significant performance improvement? Any detrimental effects like Teflon?
#74
Dragging knees in
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by 2003 Acura TLS260-Silver
Nothing wrong with Mobil1 5W20 synthetic oil. The reason why the engine blew up has more to do with the owner/operator of the vehicle. Top ten reasons why the engine blew up:
1) Didn't change the oil
2) Drove the car too hard and beyond what Acura intended the TL to do
3) Too many miles on the motor
4) Ran the car too hot and warped the aluminum head to blow out the head
gasket
5) Car is not intended to be raced on race tracks
6) Redlining the motor into the red zone and beyond
7) Abusive driving habits
8) Too many mods, thus putting too much mechanical strain on the motor.
9) Poor maintenance schedule and habits
10) Supercharged, turboed or NOX moddifications.
1) Didn't change the oil
2) Drove the car too hard and beyond what Acura intended the TL to do
3) Too many miles on the motor
4) Ran the car too hot and warped the aluminum head to blow out the head
gasket
5) Car is not intended to be raced on race tracks
6) Redlining the motor into the red zone and beyond
7) Abusive driving habits
8) Too many mods, thus putting too much mechanical strain on the motor.
9) Poor maintenance schedule and habits
10) Supercharged, turboed or NOX moddifications.
Guilty as charged on 2, 5, 6 (partially), 7 (most definitely), 8, and soon to be 9.
#75
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
Guilty as charged on 2, 5, 6 (partially), 7 (most definitely), 8, and soon to be 9.
NAH look at mine! 185k and running strong !!!!!!!!! what ever you have done ive probably done worse!
#77
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
#79
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
psh, I was to Honda