need new brake pads and rotors
03-06-2007, 10:03 PM
#41
What you really need to do is go buy some Hawk HPS pads and install them
There is a reason they are the recommended pads for Racing Brake rotors
The new rotors abilty to stop depends on serious pads- which we all know the OE
are not up to the task we ask of them..
They are made for the general public and everyday driving
To answer your question- the bedding in process is for new pads to remove a surface layer and deposit it onto the rotor www.hawkperformance.com for details
Honestly- I have NEVER heard of anyone upgrading to such good rotors and staying on stock pads
There is a reason they are the recommended pads for Racing Brake rotors
The new rotors abilty to stop depends on serious pads- which we all know the OE
are not up to the task we ask of them..
They are made for the general public and everyday driving
To answer your question- the bedding in process is for new pads to remove a surface layer and deposit it onto the rotor www.hawkperformance.com for details
Honestly- I have NEVER heard of anyone upgrading to such good rotors and staying on stock pads
03-07-2007, 01:15 AM
#42
Thanks for the info.
I bought the Hawk HPS pads, but I'm at school right now and left them at home (550 miles away)... I still have 50% of my stock pads left anyway. I'll install them sometime this summer.
As for the new rotors, my brakes no longer squeak loudly when they're cold.. they did this before on the OEM rotors, and it was really starting to bother me. I've only driven a few miles so far in slow traffic... feels about the same as the OEM rotors which is good. I do expect it'll solve the vibrations i've had braking at higher speeds w/ the OEM rotors.
I bought the Hawk HPS pads, but I'm at school right now and left them at home (550 miles away)... I still have 50% of my stock pads left anyway. I'll install them sometime this summer.
As for the new rotors, my brakes no longer squeak loudly when they're cold.. they did this before on the OEM rotors, and it was really starting to bother me. I've only driven a few miles so far in slow traffic... feels about the same as the OEM rotors which is good. I do expect it'll solve the vibrations i've had braking at higher speeds w/ the OEM rotors.
03-07-2007, 02:15 AM
#43
Have someone at home mail the Hawk pads to you, the differance will blow your mind!
03-07-2007, 05:01 PM
#44
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Hmmm ... I don't see the deal on brakes as valid any more on the link to the heel toe site. Guess I'll have to call to check, as I am pretty damn sick of nearly losing my grip on the steering wheel every time I brake from over 40 mph.
I don't know that much about brakes ... any issues with just replacing the front roters/pads and leaving the rear with OEM?
Any issues with having the dealer do this work, or do you think I should take it to brake shop? I'm assuming that the dealer will just charge me their exhorbitant rate, but I swear that everytime I have a non-Acura/Honda shop do work, I have to bring it back at least twice to get it done right. I'd rather pay more the first time and have it done right.
I don't know that much about brakes ... any issues with just replacing the front roters/pads and leaving the rear with OEM?
Any issues with having the dealer do this work, or do you think I should take it to brake shop? I'm assuming that the dealer will just charge me their exhorbitant rate, but I swear that everytime I have a non-Acura/Honda shop do work, I have to bring it back at least twice to get it done right. I'd rather pay more the first time and have it done right.
03-07-2007, 05:12 PM
#45
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I guess I could chime in with my ebay rotors experience. I know some people with GripForce and Raceconcepts drilled/slotted rotors (ebay brands) and none of them have had any problems. One of them has had them on his car for 65k miles. I had some ebay rotors awhile back on my first car, had them for a a few years until I sold that car. I Just recently ordered some Gripforce brakes with satisfied pro ceramic pads, they probably dont last as long as name brand brakes, but I think they will be fine for my purposes.
03-07-2007, 07:26 PM
#46
Originally Posted by sb65
Hmmm ... I don't see the deal on brakes as valid any more on the link to the heel toe site. Guess I'll have to call to check, as I am pretty damn sick of nearly losing my grip on the steering wheel every time I brake from over 40 mph.
I don't know that much about brakes ... any issues with just replacing the front roters/pads and leaving the rear with OEM?
Any issues with having the dealer do this work, or do you think I should take it to brake shop? I'm assuming that the dealer will just charge me their exhorbitant rate, but I swear that everytime I have a non-Acura/Honda shop do work, I have to bring it back at least twice to get it done right. I'd rather pay more the first time and have it done right.
I don't know that much about brakes ... any issues with just replacing the front roters/pads and leaving the rear with OEM?
Any issues with having the dealer do this work, or do you think I should take it to brake shop? I'm assuming that the dealer will just charge me their exhorbitant rate, but I swear that everytime I have a non-Acura/Honda shop do work, I have to bring it back at least twice to get it done right. I'd rather pay more the first time and have it done right.
The rear brakes really don't need to be upgraded. So little wear and braking happens there. People do it to make the front and rear match.
The dealer should be able to do it, although they might not really want to....they tend to hate aftermarket stuff.
Have you considered doing the job yourself? For the cost of install you can probably by all the equipment if you don't have it.
03-07-2007, 07:29 PM
#47
Originally Posted by PiZauL
I guess I could chime in with my ebay rotors experience. I know some people with GripForce and Raceconcepts drilled/slotted rotors (ebay brands) and none of them have had any problems. One of them has had them on his car for 65k miles. I had some ebay rotors awhile back on my first car, had them for a a few years until I sold that car. I Just recently ordered some Gripforce brakes with satisfied pro ceramic pads, they probably dont last as long as name brand brakes, but I think they will be fine for my purposes.
In the end it really boils down to what your purposes are. Overall, I have not seen any rotors perform better in life and stopping than Racingbrake, but that does not mean they are right for everyone (although I think anyone could realize a benefit from them).
03-07-2007, 08:52 PM
#48
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^True. Of course if one plans to autocross the car, ebay rotors wouldn't be the best idea since the material is more fragile (I believe they are OEM rotors that have been drilled and slotted). Putting that much stress on them could ruin them quicker as compared to a known name brand. But since I plan to drive normally, and maybe brake roughly every now and then when I run somebody, they'll hold up.
03-07-2007, 09:12 PM
#49
I do a combo of fast and slow freeway, backroads, track days and the ever popular- wife drives car in town too!
My 01TL has Racing Brake UP (Ultra Performance) rotors in front with Hawk Pads and Napa American made rotors in the rear with Hawk pads- they work amazing together.
I can go deeper into corners before braking, wait much longer before braking in regular situations-which means much shorter stops in emergency/panic stops.
Makes for fun when someone tailgates you into a corner and you outbrake them.
Also reduces the dragging the brakes- slow stops- which overheat normal brakes
Other brands are good, Racing Brake is awesome- purpose built product.
www.racingbrake.com for the tech details and contruction methods used to produce these special Alloy, heat treated, patented inner cooling vane, pieces of art of your car.
Full pic set to be posted- AND as a racer, mechanic, pilot, I know crap from quality
RB is the part I tell my friends to buy
My 01TL has Racing Brake UP (Ultra Performance) rotors in front with Hawk Pads and Napa American made rotors in the rear with Hawk pads- they work amazing together.
I can go deeper into corners before braking, wait much longer before braking in regular situations-which means much shorter stops in emergency/panic stops.
Makes for fun when someone tailgates you into a corner and you outbrake them.
Also reduces the dragging the brakes- slow stops- which overheat normal brakes
Other brands are good, Racing Brake is awesome- purpose built product.
www.racingbrake.com for the tech details and contruction methods used to produce these special Alloy, heat treated, patented inner cooling vane, pieces of art of your car.
Full pic set to be posted- AND as a racer, mechanic, pilot, I know crap from quality
RB is the part I tell my friends to buy
03-08-2007, 02:13 AM
#50
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Originally Posted by VeEzy
lol! u stupid. hit up excelerate for some slotted rotoras and pads. i bought my rotors and pads from him for about 460 i think. but i hear hawk pads are really good too 
btw i dont feel much of a diff as far OEM rotors/pads but i kno if u get stainless steel brakelines you'd feel the difference.
btw i dont feel much of a diff as far OEM rotors/pads but i kno if u get stainless steel brakelines you'd feel the difference.
marcus, do you offer discount price on front and rear rotor package for the racingbrakes and do you think ull offer a groupbuy on it?
03-08-2007, 03:57 AM
#52
Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
The dealer should be able to do it, although they might not really want to....they tend to hate aftermarket stuff..
03-08-2007, 09:19 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
The rear brakes really don't need to be upgraded. So little wear and braking happens there. People do it to make the front and rear match.
The dealer should be able to do it, although they might not really want to....they tend to hate aftermarket stuff.
Have you considered doing the job yourself? For the cost of install you can probably by all the equipment if you don't have it.
The dealer should be able to do it, although they might not really want to....they tend to hate aftermarket stuff.
Have you considered doing the job yourself? For the cost of install you can probably by all the equipment if you don't have it.
I have considered doing it myself, but I really don't have the time, tools, nor expertise. Basically, though far from being rich, I have more money than time and prefer to let a pro do it. If they screw it up, I make 'em fix it. If I screw it up .....
One more question, and this may seem really ignorant, but do you have to change the pads when you replace the rotor? I'm sure the Hawk pads are much better than the stock pads (which probably are due to be replaced soon anyway since they have about 63K on them).
03-08-2007, 10:40 AM
#54
Originally Posted by sb65
One more question, and this may seem really ignorant, but do you have to change the pads when you replace the rotor? I'm sure the Hawk pads are much better than the stock pads (which probably are due to be replaced soon anyway since they have about 63K on them).
You don't have to, but it is strongly recommended. New pads mate well to new rotors. It is ideal for break in. The hawks do stop better without any noise or dust compromises.
Marcus
03-08-2007, 12:22 PM
#55
The OE pads are ok, the Hawk pads on the RB rotors are AWESOME
see my avatar
The extra dollars now will be saved in the long run, especially if someone else drives your car and is able to panic stop and not bring your baby home 3 feet shorter!
see my avatar
The extra dollars now will be saved in the long run, especially if someone else drives your car and is able to panic stop and not bring your baby home 3 feet shorter!
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