I was wondering how do i get more horse power at the wheel? What does a pully do and how much is it?

 

Pulley will spin your accessories slower to reduce drag on the engine. Less power to A/C, power steering, etc. More power to the wheels. I bet you'd get less than 5hp at the fly from an underdrive pulley.

If yer accessories fail you'll likely get flak from the warranty folks. Prolly not a problem, tho. It's a luxury car though, so I'd pass. Get headers, intake, exhaust if ya want go faster. Lighter wheels, too (to reduce rotating mass).

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'01 pearlescent white TL
Wing, tint and cop-finder.
'88 White RX-7 Convertible
Permanent tinitus courtesy of Rockford-Fosgate!

 

Who doesn't need more power!? It's never enough!

Yeah, do the whole air flow system (I/H/E) first. Although that is not going to give you too much power, that's the first place you'd want to start. Then go on to throttle body/ under pulleys/ and all the other fun stuff.

If you really want a lot of instantaneous power... I'd recommend you go with NOS. That's the most power per dollar you can get. Personally, I wouldn't do anything to harm my engine so fast so soon.

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Y2K silver TL, non-navi
Factory style full body kit + spoiler, 38% window tint

 

i remember reading that you'll have alternator problems if you get the pullies.
i'd say to the i/h/e...it's a start.
wait for the comptech supercharger or do all the smaller things that people say like throttle body, etc.
nos is always a possibility.

 

I believe that is a myth that pulleys will hurt your alternator. If anything your alternator will last a LOT longer because it doesn't spin as much as it would with the stock Pulley. Think about it for a second.

Also, I have 2 amps for my stereo... a 350watt bridged mono Linear Power for my sub, and a 60watt x 4 Sony XPlod for my mids and highs. That is almost 600 watts total and I haven't had any problems with dead batteries or a fried alternator.

Don't listen to other people "guestimate" how much power you will get from a mod. Get it for yourself, have it dyno'd and then you have the proof of how much hp and torque you gained. Of course, if your gains are more than what they thought you would get, they will rationalize why your dyno is not legit or why it is inaccurate.

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Brian =B-)
2000 Accord LX V6 Sedan White - 3,310 lbs w/ driver - 170HP & 160ft/lbs
- Eibach Pro-Kit (1.5" drop)
- Red AEM Short RAM Intake (8-10hp & 5-6 ft/lbs gain on a DynoJet)
- Red AEM Tru Power Pulleys (10hp @ 5,600rpms & 11ft/lbs @ 4,600rpms gain on a DynoJet)
- 15.45 @ 88.8mph (Track) [with AEM intake/pulleys] 0-60mph 7.2 sec (G-Tech) [with intake/pulleys]

 

tube frame, rear wheel drive, stripped completely, complete air systems, build block, stroke/bore, camshafts, forced induction, timing advancements, injectors, and a type R sticker.

shouldnt hurt the ride quality too much

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Yes, I'm LegendTodd, shudup already