Need help locating PGM-FI Relay
Need help locating PGM-FI Relay
I've searched for about 30 minutes. I think that's what's wrong with my car. I need to find out where this thing is cause I can't afford to miss a day on my new job. Somebody please let me know just a relative area and possibly how to replace it.
2002 TL Type S
Last edited by Mr Exlax; Apr 20, 2015 at 08:48 PM. Reason: added vehicle info
There are so few Relays in the TL and None of them are to Control the F/I System, The TL Ignition System is fully Electronic and the ECU is in charge of the F/I Operation as well as Ignition.
There are some people affected by some "Heat Soak Issue" in their Fuel Regulator at the Engine. You should look into that! It affected some 00-02 models.
If you are in real desperate need for your car to run ASAP go to a Dealership and Stop Guessing.
There are some people affected by some "Heat Soak Issue" in their Fuel Regulator at the Engine. You should look into that! It affected some 00-02 models.
If you are in real desperate need for your car to run ASAP go to a Dealership and Stop Guessing.
Once thats out just pull the lower drivers panel off by pulling towards the seat.
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Again there are NO RELAYS to Control the F/I System.
I think what your looking for is for the "Main Fuel Pump Relay" which is in the Manual as "PGM-FI Relay".
And unless you already diagnosed that your fuel pump is not working, That relay is fine.
I think what your looking for is for the "Main Fuel Pump Relay" which is in the Manual as "PGM-FI Relay".
And unless you already diagnosed that your fuel pump is not working, That relay is fine.
Last edited by Skirmich; Apr 20, 2015 at 08:59 PM.
Thanks broski. I'll let you fellas know if I'm back up and running once I get the new one on. Never letting my wife drive my fucking car ever again.
But that Relay rarely goes bad it only turns on the Fuel Pump it does nothing to the F/I System.
Your issue sounds like the infamous Heat Soak at the Pressure Regulator, There is even a Thread on the Main about it.
Your issue sounds like the infamous Heat Soak at the Pressure Regulator, There is even a Thread on the Main about it.
perhaps the OP is talking about the bad solder issue behind the board where the relay plugs in? that's a common issue, even pics of the fix on here with arrows showing break and repair
Is that what you are thinking MrXLAX?
please describe all symptoms and attempted repairs so far- that will help us find your fix
question:
the electrical back section of the ignition, not the key part, has been inspected for burning inside itself?
that's another common failure- especially if many keys or weight is on the key ring.
The green key light on dash means the anti theft recognizes the key
If ignition shuts off and on, the symbol will appear again
got to be careful with common part names versus acuras odd descriptions, must be something lost in the translation - even though the TL was made in the USA! it wasn't designed here~
I see skirm is here- does this sound right to you- the solder issue?
Is that what you are thinking MrXLAX?
please describe all symptoms and attempted repairs so far- that will help us find your fix
question:
the electrical back section of the ignition, not the key part, has been inspected for burning inside itself?
that's another common failure- especially if many keys or weight is on the key ring.
The green key light on dash means the anti theft recognizes the key
If ignition shuts off and on, the symbol will appear again
got to be careful with common part names versus acuras odd descriptions, must be something lost in the translation - even though the TL was made in the USA! it wasn't designed here~
I see skirm is here- does this sound right to you- the solder issue?
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Apr 20, 2015 at 09:46 PM.
I'm too big to fit under the dashboard. I'm gonna have to wake up one of my kiddoes. I think I'm talking about the Fuel Pump thing. Car is cranking but not turning over. It cut off while driving like twice last week but started back up. Today it cut off, but it's been hours and it still won't turn over. I bought the new relay just can't get it on. If that doesn't work, I'll try something else. I have more money than I have time kinda thing. I might have to call out a mobile mechanic if this fuel pump relay doesn't fix it.
Never heard of this issue before
If the problem is the Solenoid leg joints then its probably that it will malfunction.
But a really dead solenoid stays dead since the stator is the one that fries.
If the problem is the Solenoid leg joints then its probably that it will malfunction.
But a really dead solenoid stays dead since the stator is the one that fries.
I'll bet its an immobilizer issue, almost sounds like a new key is in order
I have a memory of a couple years ago on AZine here, so done had a similar issue, got a new key cut and programmed at the dealer and never looked back
I have a memory of a couple years ago on AZine here, so done had a similar issue, got a new key cut and programmed at the dealer and never looked back
I still haven't gotten the new relay thingy in. The car started up no problem this morning and I drove 50 miles and it didn't cut off. I drove it again at lunch and one more time after I got off. I'm going to try and look under there again today though.
Side note: I got my new hids put in finally and they look sweet. I'm gonna get me some 8k blue bulbs next just to have when I wanna feel young.
Side note: I got my new hids put in finally and they look sweet. I'm gonna get me some 8k blue bulbs next just to have when I wanna feel young.
8000k is way too high in the color spectrum, = you cant see shite with them!
4300 was stock, 5000 is suggested upgrade, 6000 is ok but loses a LOT of white light on the road to see things
I ran Kaixen brand (High dollar/quality) 6000k for a year, then went to 5000 and the difference is dramatic, and reason why I am adamant about the 5ks as best option
want to feel young? get some LED strip lights and put under the car!!
4300 was stock, 5000 is suggested upgrade, 6000 is ok but loses a LOT of white light on the road to see things
I ran Kaixen brand (High dollar/quality) 6000k for a year, then went to 5000 and the difference is dramatic, and reason why I am adamant about the 5ks as best option
want to feel young? get some LED strip lights and put under the car!!
ck your ignition switch back part by wiggling the key while engine running
ck the board where relay plugs in for solder breaks on the back side
Its most likely one or both of those issues, not some crazy new thing no one has ever heard of
These cars have certain failures, and we know most of them!
ck the board where relay plugs in for solder breaks on the back side
Its most likely one or both of those issues, not some crazy new thing no one has ever heard of
These cars have certain failures, and we know most of them!
ck your ignition switch back part by wiggling the key while engine running
ck the board where relay plugs in for solder breaks on the back side
Its most likely one or both of those issues, not some crazy new thing no one has ever heard of
These cars have certain failures, and we know most of them!
ck the board where relay plugs in for solder breaks on the back side
Its most likely one or both of those issues, not some crazy new thing no one has ever heard of
These cars have certain failures, and we know most of them!
Lol. Pop the lower panel off as stated in this thread and tap on the relay with someting firm like the end of a screw driver or a tool from the spare tire kit in the trunk while starting the car.
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MetalGearTypeS
3G TL Audio, Bluetooth, Electronics & Navigation
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Aug 29, 2016 08:28 PM







Mr Exlax, "ARE YOU GOING TO HIT THAT?" LOL
