my tl type slow (6mt, 7-8 psi)

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Old 01-17-2011, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Rejckt
My reservoir is just hanging behind the strutbar. No bracket. I also use a 92-95 Clutch master cylinder from a civic because the acura CL cmc has this clip for the hose (which was on super backorder from acura)

The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.

One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
i had to go to a FX350 in essence (it's a different disk, which is still full sprung though, but has like a 9-puck design on it though, instead of all the way around
Old 01-17-2011, 11:49 PM
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My TL has a new friend



All of my disposable income goes here now.
Old 01-18-2011, 10:26 AM
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i do want to see some more shots of that front bumper on your TL though.
Old 01-18-2011, 01:40 PM
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My bumper's fucked up via snow. Car was too low, snow was too hard. You get the idea... To make matters worse, my rv6 module is dying on me and my car ate some water today...
Old 01-18-2011, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
1: NO, but the reason why i used my boomslang harness, and hooked it to that, is that that i can minimize the hacking of the factory harness (otherwise you have to cut and solder, on the factory harness) (you still have to route some additional wires though
http://www.boomslang.us/extension.htm

you still will have to cut and solder some on the factory harness though, but it is greatly minimized though (i think i only did like 2-3 wires total, to get all my dash lights "off" (i still got more though, i just have been too lazy , for like cruise, memory seat, parking brake (which works, just no light on the dash), and my reverse lights too

btw, you can also do like "assclown", he did the mechanical side of things, and let a shop do the wiring part (he also swapped a type-s though, into his 2000 TL)

2. as long as it has the curve, then yes it will be fine (and don't be lazy, and not change out your rear mount out at the same time, a couple of us, have broken a couple of things, from leaving the automatic mount on the rear, for a while)(it's the reason why you need the bend in the manifold)



as far as doing it yourself, actually not too bad, especially if you have changed a clutch before
I might just do that...depending on how much is required.

Originally Posted by Rejckt
My reservoir is just hanging behind the strutbar. No bracket. I also use a 92-95 Clutch master cylinder from a civic because the acura CL cmc has this clip for the hose (which was on super backorder from acura)

The car holds up fine, only problem I had was the car made too much power for a stock clutch. I changed to a clutchmaster fx300 and no more slipping.

One bad thing is that I lose supercharger whine, only because the car revs too damn fast and has too much torque that I have to constantly shift when I wot. If I did the 6mt before my s/c, I would have went turbo hands down.
Any idea what torque rating the stock clutch (or oe replacement) is rated?

I'm a RWD man, and although I thought this question would be common sense, I read over on fsttyms1's 6spd swap thread, and noticed his tranny was out but the engine was still in: this can be done without pulling the whole engine?
Old 01-18-2011, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rejckt
My bumper's fucked up via snow. Car was too low, snow was too hard. You get the idea... To make matters worse, my rv6 module is dying on me and my car ate some water today...
damn that sucks. my bumper got pretty fucked up from the snow as well and mine is OEM too. thats why i am looking for a new one so i just wanted to see all my options.
Old 01-18-2011, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Neejay
I knew about phee, but I didn't know there was another. Nice! Did you do yours yourself or get a shop to do it? Based on the parts list I found, it doesn't seem too difficult, right?
I did most of the work about 80% mainly got help with how remove some part, hose, an using the shop lift
Before i take it to Alben shop i ready got e-brake done an replace brake pedal an pretty much installed the engine an tranny an other smalls parts.

Here my thread..
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/finally-doing-6speed-swap-763216/

Originally Posted by Neejay
Ah, ok. I've been researching the last few hours and I think I've gained enough knowledge now, but had a few questions:

1.) Richie's Module - is it plug-and-play? I only saw someone using it who had a TL-P. Wiring scares the shit out of me, but I'll learn if I have to...I need to practice soldering before hand anyway.

2.) Headers - I have XS Power headers and the rear set has the curve in it. Will this still fit?

I'm gonna have to do this by myself, in my garage Anyone know anyone in the ATL area that might be able to do this for a decent price if I provide ALL the parts?

PS: Sorry for piggybacking this thread, but it's semi-relevant and I didn't want to make a whole new thread when there's a ton out there alreay.
1. No, you have to solder about 15 wire together... ready no big deal about 1 1/2 hour

2. You just got make sure you put curve one in rear.

Since you all ready have Type-S engine it would be way better if you have a lift. Reason why is the tranny can be remove from bottom. No reason removing the whole engine an having to deal with remove alots of parts.

All my part was from AcuraCarland@com (they are located an in Gwinnett)
Old 01-18-2011, 03:10 PM
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i need trans parts and heads if u decide to part out
Old 01-18-2011, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by AznWayTL's
I did most of the work about 80% mainly got help with how remove some part, hose, an using the shop lift
Before i take it to Alben shop i ready got e-brake done an replace brake pedal an pretty much installed the engine an tranny an other smalls parts.

Here my thread..
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=763216



1. No, you have to solder about 15 wire together... ready no big deal about 1 1/2 hour

2. You just got make sure you put curve one in rear.

Since you all ready have Type-S engine it would be way better if you have a lift. Reason why is the tranny can be remove from bottom. No reason removing the whole engine an having to deal with remove alots of parts.

All my part was from AcuraCarland@com (they are located an in Gwinnett)
Damn...I'll probably have to post up and "rent" lift usage or something. I don't know anyone with a lift. I need to look back under the car at the accessibility. It sounds like if I had all the parts, I could do this in one weekend...assuming everything goes according to plan...

I'm getting excited
Old 01-18-2011, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
yes the clutch reservoir, and i think i saw a different part number then on the accord from the CL (don't totally remember )(i think it's because we got additional relays mounted to it or something )

edit: EVAP solenoid mounts to it...

accord: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
CL: http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
It doesnt have to mount to it. Mine mounts off differently. I used the Civic cyl and it bolts up perfectly

Old 01-18-2011, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Neejay
Damn...I'll probably have to post up and "rent" lift usage or something. I don't know anyone with a lift. I need to look back under the car at the accessibility. It sounds like if I had all the parts, I could do this in one weekend...assuming everything goes according to plan...

I'm getting excited
Dont need a lift. Very little needs to be done under the car that cant be done with jack stands.
Old 01-18-2011, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Dont need a lift. Very little needs to be done under the car that cant be done with jack stands.
Sweet! I was looking in my engine bay and it looks easy enough, as long as I take my time. I'm confident now. In my searching, I couldn't find a wiring for the Richie module.

What was the hardest part of the swap (besides the wiring)?
Old 01-18-2011, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
It doesnt have to mount to it. Mine mounts off differently. I used the Civic cyl and it bolts up perfectly

the one i want is a one-piece bracket, instead of the two different one, and to that rust

Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Dont need a lift. Very little needs to be done under the car that cant be done with jack stands.
, but a lift makes it A SHIT LOAD easier though (and at times it might have actually been easier on the ground, mainly when yanking, and stuffing the tranny in, mainly because i had to use a ladder, to get to the top to adjust the engine hanger tool (but really not that big of an issue though)








also OP to the rotary, they are a fucking sweet, but maintenance whores some though
Old 01-18-2011, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Neejay
Sweet! I was looking in my engine bay and it looks easy enough, as long as I take my time. I'm confident now. In my searching, I couldn't find a wiring for the Richie module.

What was the hardest part of the swap (besides the wiring)?
Taking the 300+lb auto trans out. Its a PIG.
Old 01-18-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
the one i want is a one-piece bracket, instead of the two different one, and to that rust



, but a lift makes it A SHIT LOAD easier though (and at times it might have actually been easier on the ground, mainly when yanking, and stuffing the tranny in, mainly because i had to use a ladder, to get to the top to adjust the engine hanger tool (but really not that big of an issue though)








also OP to the rotary, they are a fucking sweet, but maintenance whores some though
Why a one piece? I mean you have it hanging now, why not get a bracket easily findable and mount it?? That was during the fitting stage. I blasted it and painted it.

I see no reason at all to use a lift for this swap other than to lift the car off the auto trans dropping it out the bottom (which can be done with a floor jack)
Old 01-18-2011, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Taking the 300+lb auto trans out. Its a PIG.
but then again if you drop it, and shatter the case, DOES IT REALLY MATTER.... (did not do it to mine though, cause i used a tranny jack, but i have shattered a case though, on a caddy/northstar, it was being a bitch going back in; i had to drop the tranny, to be able to pull the "j-pipe", so then i could change the oil pan gasket :shakehead, then the pan turned out to be warpped instead... [btw the jack slide out; because of the stupid amount of tilt i had to put on it, to try and get it to go back in, cause of the fucking framerail; then it dropped)
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Why a one piece? I mean you have it hanging now, why not get a bracket easily findable and mount it?? That was during the fitting stage. I blasted it and painted it.

I see no reason at all to use a lift for this swap other than to lift the car off the auto trans dropping it out the bottom (which can be done with a floor jack)

one piece, because it is what came on the CL , and i have already special ordered it

and as far as hanging there LMFAO, it's just the hose holding it up there, so it can move sides to side if it wants too lol

Last edited by friesm2000; 01-18-2011 at 07:40 PM.
Old 01-19-2011, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by friesm2000
one piece, because it is what came on the CL , and i have already special ordered it

and as far as hanging there LMFAO, it's just the hose holding it up there, so it can move sides to side if it wants too lol
1 piece will never make the car be a CL or worth more lol. Just get one so that its mounted
Old 01-19-2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Neejay
Sweet! I was looking in my engine bay and it looks easy enough, as long as I take my time. I'm confident now. In my searching, I couldn't find a wiring for the Richie module.

What was the hardest part of the swap (besides the wiring)?

Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.

The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
Old 01-19-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Taking the 300+lb auto trans out. Its a PIG.
I hope I don't drop it....lol
Originally Posted by AznWayTL's
Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.

The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
Sweet. I'll definitely give you a call if I need help. lol

One thing I haven't seen is how to do the e-brake conversion. Does that require taking up the carpet and moving over the foot e-brake to the center console's CL e-brake? And why wouldn't the auto TL-S icebox fit anymore when I do the 6spd conversion? Or does that only apply to the CL auto vs. manual?
Old 01-19-2011, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by AznWayTL's
Wiring is one of the easy part to me. I can help you with that. Trying figure out how to mount custom reservoir was like 1+ hours, but all good.

The main reason why i did this swap was b/c i had to replace tranny for my Honda Odyssey so i decide to do 2 for 1.. an keep the wife happy
1st i remove my engine an tranny out of my TL. Next i remove the Tranny out of Odyssey. Then put my TL tranny in my Odyssey an the rest is history. That why bottom way to me is much easier compare to the top, but you will need lift to do this b/c your sub frame is pretty long.
SCORE but fucking awesome way of justifying it though (now when the odyssey craps out again, you need to convert that to a manual )
Old 01-19-2011, 09:49 PM
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nice job you got pretty good prices too. nice.
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