my names Brian, i own a 2002 acura tl type s, im from california and i've own my car for a few weeks now. been around the honda scene for a while now. been a lurker on this site for sometime now and decided to register. anyways.. nice to meet everyone here. i know i'll learn alot on this site.
anyways.....

i have a question, im good around aftermarket stereos and systems. anyways, my stock stereo decided to take a dookie on me. i checked all fuses, disconnected the battery to reset everything just to see if the stereo would bring up the code thing. but it doesnt do anything.. im completly lost and dont know what to do next. also both under the stereo and center console power outlet/ciggerette thingy doesnt work anymore either.

PLEASE help. THANKS

 

Did you check the passenger side dash fuse panel? Sounds like a fuse is blown. (also make sure a dime isnt in one of the outlets, its a common cause to blow the fuse)

 

i checked both fuse box and underhood fuse. no change laying around either. more help please. thanks tho

 

The radio has 2 fuses, (just making sure you checked)

If both are good, you may have to pull the radio and check the wiring.

 

pulling the radio is kinda of a pain in the butt, you have to remove the hole center console and center armrest, cup holders and side panels to the console center. iv done it a few times, could prob get it out in under 20 min now. first time took 2 hours i think.

crutchfeild . com has a deal were they include the signal din dash piece with the order of a head unit, they give you wires too i think. instructions as well i believe. i have a kenwood headunit, it works well.

 

2 hours, my first time was around 20 min, i can do it in about 3-4 min now.

 

i've had an indash in my car before. i've taken off the OEM radio and checked wires. nothing looks,seems, or smells burned. thanks for more info. MORE help please =)

 

bump*

 

welcome Brian



off topic, but i see your from central cali as well.

my name is also bryan

check out our central cali chat thread, there may be some guys close by who may be able to help you

https://acurazine.com/forums/california-308/central-california-chat-thread-729892/

 

THANKS. i'll be sure to check it out.

 

still need sum help. thanks

 

Let's start with easier stuff... is there 12V?
Don't forget to put ignition into I

 

what do you mean by that?

 

Ok, is there 12V coming to radio plug?
As i remember "+" is 1st or 2nd top, from the right; "-" is ground.
So, the Q is, is it radio or wiring.

 

i agree, check to see if the radio harness is producing any power to the radio.. from the original post, i will assume that the radio was working fine when you first bought the car. Did it take a dookie overnight while the car was sitting? or were you in the middle of driving or doing something etc.?

 

whenever i remove the fuse from the pass. fuse box 20amp and put it back on it has power, u can hear it trying to read cds or seeing if there are any cds in there. so im going to guess it still has power?

the story about the OEM stereo is that i bought the car from my g/f parents and before i recieved the car. my girl bought another car and the same day the dad drove the car home and he always turns off everything before turning the car off. and the following morning he turned the car on and the stereo didnt turn on anymore. does that kind of help?
thanks

 

im thinking it went into anti-theft mode? the light still blinks.
if it so. can replacing it with an aftermarket deck change it?

 

Fellow Mo-town resident here. Do you see anything on the display?

 

nothing on display. wut part modesto u at? im around the bluegum area.

 

South Modesto area off of Hatch rd.

Actually I'm in Ceres now, still getting used to my new location. I live near the old Ceres Drive In theater.

Sounds like your stereo might have crapped out if it doesn't display anything. Just bad luck for you I guess.

 

I would guess the Accessory Power Socket Relay is bad. Controls power to accessory sockets & also is the accessory-input for the head unit. Since you say you hear the CD-read process happen when the radio gets power, seems as if it's just not getting the accessory input.

The relay is in the passenger side fuse box, the side that you can't see.

 

how do i get to the relay where i cant see it?

 

You might have access to it if you take the glove box out, but I'm not sure; maybe someone can verify. I'm just going off of diagrams from the electrical troubleshooting manual.

 

that helps alot. i will try that and see.
does anyone else think this will solve the problem?

 

Am I suppose to look for a relay after taking out the glove Box? I found to blk relay that I can barely get too. I just can't pull them out.
Need more help thanks

 

Are those or one of the relays I'm looking for? Thanks again

 

There's no way the whole process of taking out the HU can be done in 3-4 mins. Get a video up to prove it..LOL

OP: If you've checked all the fuses, then it's prob a worse HU than what the rest of us have. I'd say it's a good excuse for a double din..

 

Wanna bet? i'll do it in 3-4m too, with electro screwdriver.

 

i have a single din indash ready to throw in there.
i just called a local stereo shop and they said it could be the stock amplifier that is burned out? anyone think it might be that?

 

1. Your radio does not turn on, but it does get power
2. Your accessory power sockets don't work

To me, the common denominator is the accessory power signal. So my hypothesis is that the accessory signal is either
a) not active,
b) not reaching the accessory power relay, or
c) relay is loose/defective/etc and not activating the hot wire pass-through once switched.
d) the hot pass-through is not reaching the power sockets & radio

a) Make sure you get battery voltage in ACC or ON at fuse #8 in driver's side fuse box. Make sure fuse #8 hasn't popped.

b) Make sure you get battery voltage in ACC or ON at cavity 3 of the accessory power relay

c) Make sure you get battery voltage at all times at fuse #9 (pass. side) and cavity 2 of the accessory power relay. Make sure you have continuity with cavity 4 of the relay and ground. Make sure you get battery voltage at cavity 1 of the relay in ACC or ON.

d) Verify battery voltage at ACC input & accessory power socket in ACC or ON.

 

Video to prove it. If not, I still call
I've done this so many times (without an electric screwdriver tho) and the best I've done is like 10mins.

 

I thought the HU was our cars' amplifier...?

 

lol,sure! i might have to add some switches soon, so will film it.
no, amp is right behind AC panel.
but when you adding aftermarket HU - you bypassing it.

 

LOL..will patiently await the vid

Damn, guess I heard some false info. I need a good amp..

 

how do you bypass the oem amplifier? im going to be adding two aftermarket amps to the TL.

 

I understood that the TL stereos had an internal amp while the CL stereos had an external amp. This is the first I've heard of any external OEM amp in a TL.

 

The radio connects to an equalizer (which is up by the radio), but drives the door speakers directly. The equalizer then drives the amp(behind rear seat, right-side) for the sub .

Door speakers' audio signal:
Radio -> equalizer -> radio -> speaker

Subwoofer's audio signal:
Radio -> equalizer -> amp -> subwoofer

 

Oh, I knew about the amp for the sub but I was under the impression that amp is specific for the sub while the HU was the "amp" for the door speakers. OP was told that his amp is out and causing his HU failure but that shouldn't affect HU functionality if it is for the sub only. If it is for door speakers + sub, I still don't see how it could affect the HU. Now if the amp really is in the HU, I can see how a short in the "amp" could cause HU failure.

Trying to get this thread back on topic..LOL

 

Well if it is the way I think, then the amp you need to bypass is the one behind the rear seat (passenger side). But honestly, I'm not too good with electrical ish so I'll let someone who's actually done it chime in...

 

Well technically most HUs contain an internal amplifier to drive speakers...they just aren't high-powered or built like dedicated external amps with well-regulated power supplies and decent frequency response curves. And since a lot of cars' stock electrical setups severely limit the current supply of the audio unit, there isn't much "room" to do a lot - so it'd be pointless to manufacturer a head unit with a super-high quality internal amp that will just blow fuses.

The shop's suggestion that the amp may have failed just sounds like someone throwing out possibilities without actually trying to look into what is really the problem. But I'm still focusing on the fact that his accessory power socket is out - a circuit external to the stereo system.