My brakes haunt me!
#1
7th Gear
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Location: Chicago, IL
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My brakes haunt me!
Alright so i have a 2003 TL-S and my brakes have haunted me practically since i have owned the car. Here's the problem, when i brake, the steering wheel pulses back and force, and the there is a strong vibrating sensation, but I dont feel much actually coming from the brake pedal itself. This happens from varying speeds, but most violently at highway speeds (~60-75mph). I have had the brakes inspected and repaired two different times already. The first time they planed the rotors and gave me new pads, second time they replaced the rotors and pads and yet the problem still persists.
Here is what I'm thinking. I have heard of this sort of problem being caused by the brake master cylinder being shot, BUT usually it causes a persistent vibration in the pedal, and at all speeds, which is not what i have. Also the acura dealership i took it to said that the rim of my wheel could have some effect on this? I thought this was BS, but maybe i can be enlightened?
So what do you guys suggest? If i need to buy new rotors, would it make sense to buy my own aftermarket performance rotors and have a good shop install them? Thanks for your input in advance and hopefully with your guy's knowledge I can finally put this ghost in its grave.
Here's the most recent pic of my baby (its been a while)
Here is what I'm thinking. I have heard of this sort of problem being caused by the brake master cylinder being shot, BUT usually it causes a persistent vibration in the pedal, and at all speeds, which is not what i have. Also the acura dealership i took it to said that the rim of my wheel could have some effect on this? I thought this was BS, but maybe i can be enlightened?
So what do you guys suggest? If i need to buy new rotors, would it make sense to buy my own aftermarket performance rotors and have a good shop install them? Thanks for your input in advance and hopefully with your guy's knowledge I can finally put this ghost in its grave.
Here's the most recent pic of my baby (its been a while)
![](http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d192/trusty_balloon/DSC02783.jpg)
#4
Drifting
Been there done that. What did they replace the rotors with, more of the same? Do it yourself, save the labor cost & put it toward better aftermarket rotors. Plenty of info on here as to what others have used, search around. I'm using EBC blanks & EBC pads, no more problems to date.
#5
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Alright, well it looks like I'll definitely be getting aftermarket rotors and pads then. I looked up on excelerate and they have Rotora Slotted rotors for $93 a piece, so about $185 for the pair. Are these quality rotors?
I called the stealership and they quoted me $562 for the rotors, pads and labor. Obviously all OEM, though. It was $200 for the labor, is that fair?
I called the stealership and they quoted me $562 for the rotors, pads and labor. Obviously all OEM, though. It was $200 for the labor, is that fair?
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#8
a shop will charge 1 hour per side, meaning per wheel!!, thats 75-100 per hour
plus 59-99 dollars for a brake fluid flush= 250-300 labor!
You can do pads and rotors in about 45-60 minutes first brake and ~25 2nd,
thats including cleaning and regreasing of sliding parts-
add 60 minutes for paint calipers and brackets
its that easy
brake fluid flush takes the longest at 45 minutes including remove rear wheels
and should be done BEFORE you work on the rest of the brakes
plus 59-99 dollars for a brake fluid flush= 250-300 labor!
You can do pads and rotors in about 45-60 minutes first brake and ~25 2nd,
thats including cleaning and regreasing of sliding parts-
add 60 minutes for paint calipers and brackets
its that easy
brake fluid flush takes the longest at 45 minutes including remove rear wheels
and should be done BEFORE you work on the rest of the brakes
#9
5 wheel lugs, 2 caliper bolts, 2 caliper bracket bolts, 2 pesky rotor retaining screws
Get an Impact screwdriver at parts store to remove those
Presoak the rotor to hub area with wd or other rust blaster
If screws are really tight and stuck- set screwdriver to right-tighten and whack a few times
that disturbs the rust bond- then set to left remove and hammer it good a few more times
Get an Impact screwdriver at parts store to remove those
Presoak the rotor to hub area with wd or other rust blaster
If screws are really tight and stuck- set screwdriver to right-tighten and whack a few times
that disturbs the rust bond- then set to left remove and hammer it good a few more times
#10
B A N N E D
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Location: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
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These brakes SUCk..
My brakes are warped as we speak and every solid rotor I put on this car warped, except for EBC dimpled and slotted. I just boght the NSX calipers (daulpiston) to try and aleve the problem.. many people say the rotors will still warp but i think it will slow the process down.
#11
Drifting
#15
I'm a thrill seeker in my
I agree with everyone here on what's already been said. I recently purchased the brakes in my sig and installed them with my buddy. As long as you have the right tools it's cake and fun too. Feels good to work on your own car and know it's done to your standards.
#16
S E L L
I've had my Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors for over a year now and I haven't had any issues.
They were about $45 each. If you're on a budget these should work very well. I have ZERO vibration.
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