Hey guys, i have just noticed a new problem with my car. When im driving and accelerating and speed hits about 30 i feel a mild vibration and it goes away past 40. I thought might be tranny acting up but when i threw it in sport shift and tried all gears, same result. I had the wheels balanced and rotated and alignment done to still have the problem remain. I know i have heard a loud click sound about 2 times when i accelerated with the steering turned to the left but never heard it again and this was about a week before i noticed this. Suspension is recently done (shocks and camber kits only, incl front control arm). Anything else i should check? thanks

 

SS doesnt change anything in the trans, so if it was the trans it wouldnt matter if it was in D or SS Having said that its usually 1 of 2 things (but could be a few others like ball joints/tierod ends) . A motor mount, or an axle that cause shaking while accelerating.

 

How can I troubleshoot this? I never had issues like this. My rotors are warped but I don't believe that this would cause an issue while Accelerating.

 

Just a little bit of additional detail Cars at 166k miles. All original parts besides things I've modified and Transmission. All mounts were changed last year.

 

What did you replace the mounts with?? The oem mounts do not last very long. I replaced mine w the XLR8 set and I like them. If you install these, your problem will reverse lol. Shaking at idle but so smooth as soon as you're off the brakes.

 

I did them with original but I don't think it should shake while going. I'm just confused with this. It's nothing major but I hate the fact I feel the vibration even if very mild.

 

Hey Harminder247, your best bet would be to to go over the recent suspension work and make sure that everything's tight. Mods such as lowering and custom rims can create additional stress to the suspension and steering parts.

As Fsstyms1 earlier suggested, check the driveshafts and wheel bearings.

 

I had the same problem where I would feel a "flutter" at like 35-40mph but then either letting go of the gas or hitting the gas a little harder would make it go away.

Its been a few months and it kind of went away on its own. Not sure what it was.....I was thinking maybe some bad gas.

 

Like everyone else is saying, axles. It's usually the inner c.v. joint causing the problem. Get NEW, not rebuilt or remanufactured axles, if everything else checks out ok. Sometimes the only way to tell which side is bad is by replacement.

 

I was going to change the axles and was wondering do i need to change tha half shaft? Is it possible for that to bend?

 

No unless it has play like a worn bearing or loose from its mounting position.

 

well after changing both axles and having a smooth ride for a bit the shaking is starting to come back Im running out of ideas.

 

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Trying over a year of trying to figure out what it was now I now have another problem which is I hear a very loud squeaking an clunking sound when I turn my steering wheel real quick. I was thinking it may be my inner tie rod and outer tie rod is there way I can verify? Would this cause any of the squeaking? Will post video soon.

 

A worn lower ball joint may be the culprit or tie-rods, Lift the car up in the front and check for play on the front wheels.

 

Yeah, as ErickUa5 previously suggested: check things out for play. What have ya done so far ?
Try spraying some WD40 on the suspect areas such as bushings, U & L ball joints, rod ends and see if that temporarily quiets things down for awhile.

 

could go back to the suspension parts install, torque is all important!
some bolts get tightened after the car is on the ground/ramps so weight is on tires. otherwise it loads different

put it in the air and have a acura knowing tech ck it over
give me a shout if you want help

 

have you flushed the ps fluid --ever?

Did you ever get around to cking the CV bearings/drive axle, click click click while turned wheel is cv
reading original post again - I see kris suggest that too
clicking when wheel turned is 99% time bad cv joint/axle bearing

suggest NEW parts not rebuilt..NAPA has a trusted cv axle assembly

 

im having the same issues as i change both axles and they still shake like mad during high speed 60-100mph what a POS rod,bushings and joints.


found this kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suspension-P...45e778&vxp=mtr

 

All work i had done on suspension was rechecked and everything was tight. I sprayed wd-40 on the tie rods and it seemed to quiet down for a couple weeks. Control arm was replaced with struts. Power steering fluid has not been flushed. I get a slight vibration when accelerating between 20-40 and it does not happen everytime. 3 out of 5 times. Im going to change out the outter tie rod and bushing since cars at 184k now and probably something that should be taken care of. The axles were change with NEW ones about a year ago and that did not solve anything. Is it better to go with a name brand tie rod or would any do? Everything to do with suspension is koni or ingalls til now.

 

Other than vibrations, are ya noticing any pull or wandering of the front end ? How are the tires wearing ? Usually when the tie rod goes bad, it'll have some play at the joint.

If ya should decide to replace the tie rods, check the inners also. It's best to get a better brand of replacement part that has a grease fitting. Have ya tied rotating your tires yet ?

 

I would check the half shaft for play on the acceleration issue, if all else checks out ok.
What brand of axles did you install rebuilt or new, rebuilt are known to give up after a few miles.

 

Well I decided I'm going to change inner and outer tie rods so any recommendations on what brand or where to purchase from question

 

Consider having an alignment shop inspect the tires, brakes, suspension and steering components for wear. Often-times, many shops will offer a free evaluation and estimate of repairs.

 

I have the tires rotated balanced and the alignment done every 5-6 months since I have lifetime alignment thru firestone and rotations included.

 

Yeah, gotcha.....Firestone would check things out, hoping to up the "lifetime" ante a bit....ha,hah !!!

 

trust no one to automatically inspect things
you want it looked at- got to be specific

 

have you swapped tires front to rear and does firestone use a Hunter brand balancer that cks each rim and tire for deflections?
a minor tweak in rim will balance, but cause shake and wear
see recent thread on moog parts quality gone bad

 

Let me clarify this, I paid them extra to inspect it. American tires does the rotations and balancing. They rechecked my rims and also had a shop I use check the wheels. Wheels are perfect. They been rotated but problem is still there. No uneven tire wear. Plus the car makes a squeaking sound sound which can't be caused by the rim.

 

As you mentioned above about not trusting anyone to do anything unless instructed, you have to know what to ask for with the hunter road force balancer. A lot of places don't do road force unless you ask for it, and it may charge additional for it. Some places road force the tire, but do nothing with the information, not even inform the owner. You don't get to measuring rim runout until you get to the match-mounting phase, which does incur yet another fee.

 

Well i finally think i have it figured out, with a help from a buddy it seems both my lower ball joints are shot and my lower control arms need to be changed to stop the shaking. Anything else i might as well knock out? Which brand should i go with?

 

upper control arms are a popular wear-out, its right there when doing the rest

lowered cars and roads in America do a number on suspension/steering parts
CKd the cv inner bearings- no tears in rubber boot?
just throwing out ideas of other items in the shake category, one shake can affect the next part in line

 

Yes sir! Upper control arm were changed last year, so we're axles with new ones.

 

If you're replacing the lower control arms, ya might as well check and replace other steering / suspension components while everything is torn apart. With the age and miles of our older TL's, along with lowering......
it's all well spent time, money and effort.

 

What else do you have in mind I should check? Easy diy?

 

yes- its all just bolts
put car on ramps and inspect for tearing of any rubber boot on steering parts
You know, grease out = grit in!
do a twist and turn to all moving parts, the main one you are already planning to replace
We can guess at every part down there, but a flashlight is what you need

 

Ball joints fairly easy? I've done the struts myself on and the flex disk on my BMW which was a LONG job but got it don't right. I'm just always worried I'll screw something when I do something knew. Ball joints have to be pressed in right? A good diy on that?

 

did you look in our diy? new part comes assembled, all you need are a pickle fork tool or actual ball joint separator tool to remove old one

 

Didnt seem to find one in there but ill recheck. I have a ball joint separator tool

 

sometimes the CL section has DIYs we use,,,same car

 

Hey guys just an update, lower ball joint, control arm and a few other things have been changed by shake remains and now the car has also thrown some abs codes. The codes are the following,

11-01 - right front wheel speed sensor open or short
25-01 - yaw rate sensor failure
26-01 lateral acceleration sensor failure
31-01 right front inlet solenoid valve failure
32-01 right front outlet solenoid valve failure
34-01 left front outlet solenoid valve failure
37-01 left rear inlet solenoid valve failure
55-01 vsa relay failure
64-01 sensor supply voltage failure
83-01 ecm/pcm relation failure

anything i should check? certains ones i should start changing first? cars at 195k now and other then this runs perfect. Anything else i should check out? my gas mileage does suck but i dont think its realted to this. I average 15-16 mpg free mixed.