binary_10essee

I got to Wal-Mart this evening for an oil change. They said they couldn't get a reading at all. "There was no oil on the dipstick" -- prior to changing it. Is that even possible? Car has been running just fine since the last change about 6K miles ago.

Is it even possible to run often with little to no oil? LoL.

They said there's a leak. Only sign of oil I found is down by the filter, on the metal below it. Could that be a leak? Or actually just oil from where it's been changed, twice now?

Started the car and couldn't spot any oil dripping anywhere by looking all over.

Skirmich

Yeah it can possibly happen usually it can destroy your engine too
What is curious is that you were driving with almost no Oil and the Oil Pressure didn't pop on?? Driving with Oil Low Pressure light on? Not wise man, Not wise at all.


And Why would you go to wal-mart for an oil change? Oil Change is the easiest DIY in the planet.

ErickUa5

If its not leaking It may be burning oil, Keep track of the level every 1000 miles or weekly. Whats the condition of the PCV valve ever changed it?

Also look between the engine and transmission its a common area for leaks.

binary_10essee

No lights on dash at all. I would've looked into it immediately if the oil light came on, just as I do with the CEL. I checked the level a couple weeks ago and seemed just fine.

There is oil on the bottom of the oil pan, on the back half. Hard to tell right now, but looks old, not fresh.

I've checked a few times after driving since the oil change today and no spots under car, no fresh oil that I can see below.

binary_10essee

I'll check it more often, just in case. I plan to check it in the AM before I head to work. Car has almost 197K miles. I'm wondering if it's gonna burn a bit of oil due to age? While researching it, it seems to be common with aged V-tec motors. I dunno. We'll see.

Skirmich

^ Not common with Aging well maintained Cars.. I usually don't need to top off until 3 months or so, And I'm talking about 1/4 of a Quart only And I hit VTEC Often.


Oil by its nature tend to do 2 things: Burn or Evaporate.
Burn: Happens when the Engine runs in a Hot Environment, It leaves behind deposits because of the burn.
Evaporate: Is normal that some oil evaporate through time and use, Don't leave deposits.


If you are Toping off because of Burned Oil that is a bad situation. Otherwise topping off should be little by little.
Leaks are not in this scenarios, A leak should be fixed to prevent the engine from oil starvation without you noticing.

binary_10essee

I understand. I did notice that the Wal-Mart tech checked the oil MAYBE 5 minutes after I parked the car and handed him the keys. I checked it last night when I got home, about 15min after shutting it off, and the level was at the low dot. I checked it again about 30min later and it was just above the bottom dot. I checked it this morning after it sitting all night and it's halfway between the 2 dots on the dipstick.

I didn't think of that until late last night. I've read conflicting ideas about when to check it -- warm or cold. I'll keep an eye on it once a week or so, and keep track of how much I have to put in before I'm due for a change.

3.2TLc

Check the oil when it's cold and while the car is sitting level. Do this on a regular basis until ya find if the motor is burning or leaking oil. The oil gotta be going somewhere, if it shows up low shortly after being properly filled.

Check the motor's gasket and seal areas, along with the bottom area. Lay a piece of cardboard on the ground after parking the car. It'll help determine the location of a possible leak. Also, have someone follow you to see if the car's exhaust smokes while driving it.

Walmart isn't the best place to go for service or advice. They often do shoddy work, IMO.

01tl4tl

I just replied to your other thread and was going to put at the end--most oil drain plug damage from over-tightening comes from places like quaky-lube or similar
Work done by guys who are not car guys, and make minimum wage and might speak English
think they are using a torque meter- NO! a giant long azz wrench = way too much

Note spec on our oil plug is 29 foot pounds- see it they even know that!
especially the guy under the car- doesn't matter if person up top yells out 29 if the other person says gualtah??

binary_10essee

Yeah, I know. I just didn't have time. We're taking a trip (roughly 210 miles each way) this weekend, and with working 40hrs a week, I didn't have time to change it myself. I do plan to change it myself from now on, because I know it isn't a difficult DIY whatsoever.

Checked it this morning and the level was perfect. I plan to check it again before I leave work today, just to be sure. I'll come back and update the thread once I check it.

Thanks, everyone!

TLZINE99

Do not rely on the oil light LOL if u have oil left because when that light comes on it's either ur engine is running low on pressure or little oil.....Not good for the engine it can also affect your VTEC system to malfunction.

01tl4tl

slight oil consumption is a byproduct of internal combustion engines

Ck pcv valve as mentioned--didn't you replace that recently due to clogging?

A LOT of oil can be left on that whatever name arm from changing oil filter
DIY people bother to wipe that off, as well as any that drips down pan when last drops come out

Also put a socket to every oil pan bolt- often one or two loose
Ck every bolt on the car since its new to you and came with some normal and some odd problems

keep the engine oil level at the upper dot- that's FULL, many of us put in a full 5 qts and have no prob with the slight excess - giving it a built in reserve to use
by 7500 miles it may only be down to the full mark
That lower mark- that's as low as you ever want to see it- and that's 1 qt low!!
On a system that runs on 4.some qts being 1/4 of that down is a major loss of cooling and lubricating capacity- yes oil carries away heat- and creates more oil use

Have you inspected the rear main seal- at trans to eng connection under car there is a plate with 2, 10 mm bolts, remove cover- if oil present its engine rear main and new pcv might let it settle back in place if that was clogged
otherwise its remove trans to get to seal = bummer

other places to look, vtec solenoid, oil pressure switch/sender, valve cover gaskets and vc bolts gaskets, cam and front main shaft seal (last 2 are rare failures- unless clogged pcv!)

Did you personally watch the oil changer do the complete= remove dipstick- wipe clean- insert fully- remove and read- showing it to you? or he just said `it was way low man`

01tl4tl

trip tip!
inflate tires to max cold (ck allowed weight with car loaded) or at least a few psi above your normal
Its better for longer high speed runs and improves mpg- even the owner book agrees!

If you wanted to seafoam the gas, this is the perfect time- a long trip gives it time and heat to dissolve crud inside fuel system and everything downstream- cat o2 sensors etc

make sure cabin air filter is new and engine air filter of course
and HAVE FUN! The TL loves to hit the open road and use the cruise control
that's what it was made for Touring Luxury

acutee

I have been driving my car with oil level on the minimum mark for years without problem, or at least I haven't seen problem yet with the engine. Not that I wanted to do that, but there is a leak some where, and if I fill it up, it will leak. Did replace the pcv valve just in case, didn't help.

Skirmich

^ You are more than likely killing performance on your engine.
Have you done a Dyno recently? It might impress you how much compression you lost via lack of lubrication to the piston rings.

acutee

I am sure it won't be good for the engine, but still couldn't find where the problem is. if it was oil pump leak, it's a bigger job to tackle.

Skirmich

^ Yah it might be even cheaper to buy a whole engine, indeed.
Thankfully our engines are cheap.


I've been trying to get my Hands on an LS2 Engine, Its hopeless. They are more expensive than my whole TL-S bluebook asking price.

3.2TLc

At the next oil change, when everything is freshly topped off.....inspect and clean the lower areas of the motor. Is there any evidence of an apparent source of oil leaking anywhere on top ? Is the exhaust smoking from blowby ? Perhaps try a high mileage oil of a higher viscosity ?

wng

I've changed my own oil for years, so I'm curious: why would the mechanic need to check the oil before changing it? He's dumping it all out anyway.

The only thing I can think of would be if he checks that the level is between the dots to confirm it's at the right level and then measures what drains out and refills the same amount. However, that seems like more work than just looking it up in some reference source I'm sure they have.

3.2TLc

Hey Wng, a person such as yourself who does their own oil changes ...... normally will monitor the car's motor oil level on the dipstick in between changes.

Meanwhile, a mechanic who does not know the car's motor condition or the owner's mechanical ability should check the oil's level to protect their shop from liability issues which may arise after the service. An older high mileage car is susceptible to all sorts of mechanical problems and owner negligence as we all know.

01tl4tl

at wallyworld oil change- its probably to cover their butz in case the car came in with no oil showing, or horrible condition, then they get blamed when engine fails next day
OR to track how much old oil is going to their storage tank

No tech measures amount removed- besides those on here doing atf change~

shops use a book , now computer- to give them the filter number and amount of oil required
In the old days shop threw in 4 or 5 based on ~working knowledge~
Now with computer dispensing (similar to bar drink systems) and exact tracking of fluids dispensed, you should get a fill to the full mark and no higher
BUT
I never trust anyone- even myself!
double ck/re ck all work done to the car from drain bolt torque, fluid levels, air pressure in tires and wheel lug nut torque = those lugs do loosen when car takes to the back roads~ at race track we re-tighten lugs after every 30 minute track session!

Some places remove air filter top cover to ck filter, then don't reattach correctly = big air leak for you or broken tab on corner of airbox lid

next oil change run seafoam in system first,- then install a quick drain valve $25 and never hassle with drain plug bolt issues again, makes DIY simple

binary_10essee

When the "tech" at Wal-Mart checked it, the car had just been shut off less than 5 minutes prior. I've never seen a vehicle read normal when hot. Ever. And the oil change was done with 5W-30, I believe it was. Castrol GTX. I can double check, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

We drove to Memphis yesterday, about 210 miles. I checked the oil this morning. Still at the TOP dot on the dipstick, and no oil on the ground, no fresh oil beneath the car (oil pan and so on).

I'm pretty sure the guy checked it hot, of course it didn't read, he relayed that to whoever did the actual work of changing it, they noticed the oil on the pan, and just assumed it was a leak. I don't really have much faith in them, or even many dedicated oil shops.