Legend Caliper owners please talk to me.
04-25-2008, 10:56 AM
#1
Legend Caliper owners please talk to me.
Ok
I am putting in Stoptech slotted rotors on all 4 corners with Hawk HPS pads.
How much improvment have you seen with the legend caliper. After core Return my cost on the legend caliper is going to be $155.
Is this worth the cost?
I am putting in Stoptech slotted rotors on all 4 corners with Hawk HPS pads.
How much improvment have you seen with the legend caliper. After core Return my cost on the legend caliper is going to be $155.
Is this worth the cost?
04-25-2008, 11:34 AM
#4
bringin lead
Many members have done this. You will see a stark improvement with the HPS and new rotors by themselves. The Legend calipers will pull the package together nicely and will grip much better than stock any day of the week.
04-25-2008, 11:38 AM
#6
Originally Posted by FirePR2002
Many members have done this. You will see a stark improvement with the HPS and new rotors by themselves. The Legend calipers will pull the package together nicely and will grip much better than stock any day of the week.
My homemade BBK
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04-25-2008, 11:51 AM
#8
The STOCK calipers cost the exact same price, 75 each rebuilt
If you look at the pics I have posted of the new calipers, your questions are answered.
As I put it- the calipers are tied with the Kaixen bulbs as best mod for 150 bucks!!!!
Then I thought about it- seeing is good but stopping is better~
You will amaze yourself with the differance and join the ~ why arent these stock?~ club
If you look at the pics I have posted of the new calipers, your questions are answered.
As I put it- the calipers are tied with the Kaixen bulbs as best mod for 150 bucks!!!!
Then I thought about it- seeing is good but stopping is better~
You will amaze yourself with the differance and join the ~ why arent these stock?~ club
04-25-2008, 11:53 AM
#9
I was already running the RacingBrake rotors and killer pads when I went with Legend calipers... and there is huge differance in grip and ease of braking quickly
I needed biger badder tires to use the ability
I needed biger badder tires to use the ability
04-25-2008, 11:58 AM
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
I was already running the RacingBrake rotors and killer pads when I went with Legend calipers... and there is huge differance in grip and ease of braking quickly
I needed biger badder tires to use the ability
I needed biger badder tires to use the ability
04-25-2008, 01:20 PM
#14
brake overhaul DIY- buy parts - remove old parts- install new parts- bleed brakes
04-25-2008, 01:24 PM
#15
I ran on the RacingBrake setup for 5000 miles then got the Legend calipers for them Sept 2007.
On the OE mickyslip tires it would go to ABS way too easy~
That meant I needed 18 inch rims- It was a month till I found the right set of rims (on the BM here) and they had the Generals on them. Working good enough for me.
What an improvement in the TL as a car now- it sticks and it finally STOPPPPPS!!!!
oh the line is still 30 feet up the road- again~
On the OE mickyslip tires it would go to ABS way too easy~
That meant I needed 18 inch rims- It was a month till I found the right set of rims (on the BM here) and they had the Generals on them. Working good enough for me.
What an improvement in the TL as a car now- it sticks and it finally STOPPPPPS!!!!
oh the line is still 30 feet up the road- again~
04-25-2008, 01:35 PM
#17
there are several models and have differing size of each piston. For our use- running them backwards of original design- we want closest together- its a weight transfer braking pressure issue that most of you will never need to care about.
For sure- these fit for us. 1995 Legend LS COUPE
i used raybestos frc10627 and frc10628
cardone makes them too
For sure- these fit for us. 1995 Legend LS COUPE
i used raybestos frc10627 and frc10628
cardone makes them too
04-25-2008, 01:39 PM
#18
If you search thru the recent brake DIYs, I have added to/corrected them where able- especially how to remove the spring clip on the brake line connection- thats a bugger unless you have done enough of them in your life to learn the secret easy methods.
Still working on my pressure bleeder- think its using too much pressure- need actual specs for acura.
Still working on my pressure bleeder- think its using too much pressure- need actual specs for acura.
04-26-2008, 11:32 AM
#21
yes the nsx calipers are the same fit and function- you have to MEASURE the diameter of each piston- because we run them opposite side of the strut- the weight transfer is opposite
The 1995 Legend LS Coupe has the closest together piston size I could find.
The 1995 Legend LS Coupe has the closest together piston size I could find.
05-13-2008, 09:44 PM
#23
TL pads TL rotors TL brake lines and the important one- use the original TL brackets - the one that bolts to the car/strut, and the caliper bolts to it.
The part #s I gave will include new brackets that wont fit the TL- 1-2 mm differance~
BUT- we order them with brackets so we can take the shiny new metal end slider clips and the mounting bolts and transfer them to the stock TL bracket.
Its cheaper to get them all that way than buy seperate. That hardware is supposed to get replaced at each brake job but rarely is. Makes the pads fit tight and slide in and out with brake use.
On the caliper will be stamped a large R- use that one on Driver side, and the one with the L- use on passenger side. Puts the bleeder nipples on top.
Make sure to prefill the calipers as much as able- use a metal- oil squirt can for easy results.
You need brake fluid in there to protect and lube the new rubber orings on the caliper pistons during bleeding, and it cuts down on brake bleeding time/effort
Bleed order LF driver front then clockwise round the car
LF RF RR LR
Buy the 2 dollar rubber `brake line plugs` at parts store- keeps fluid loss down- and off the floor-
you dont want the master cyl to run dry- then the abs controller gets air in it- requires more work to fix...
Not a tough job overall- just precision required, and well worth the effort
The part #s I gave will include new brackets that wont fit the TL- 1-2 mm differance~
BUT- we order them with brackets so we can take the shiny new metal end slider clips and the mounting bolts and transfer them to the stock TL bracket.
Its cheaper to get them all that way than buy seperate. That hardware is supposed to get replaced at each brake job but rarely is. Makes the pads fit tight and slide in and out with brake use.
On the caliper will be stamped a large R- use that one on Driver side, and the one with the L- use on passenger side. Puts the bleeder nipples on top.
Make sure to prefill the calipers as much as able- use a metal- oil squirt can for easy results.
You need brake fluid in there to protect and lube the new rubber orings on the caliper pistons during bleeding, and it cuts down on brake bleeding time/effort
Bleed order LF driver front then clockwise round the car
LF RF RR LR
Buy the 2 dollar rubber `brake line plugs` at parts store- keeps fluid loss down- and off the floor-
you dont want the master cyl to run dry- then the abs controller gets air in it- requires more work to fix...
Not a tough job overall- just precision required, and well worth the effort
05-14-2008, 01:18 AM
#24
-Arsenic-
Originally Posted by MurdaZ
nsx calipers work aswell, i think the 92 model are compat, but not sure..
05-25-2008, 12:27 PM
#25
WDP is sexy!!
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hey 01tl4tl.. where did you purchase your legend calipers? I found a good deal on rockauto.com for the part #'s that you gave me priced at around 73 bucks with a 30 dollar core chage, so after core return its only 90 bucks for the whole set.
05-25-2008, 12:33 PM
#26
WDP is sexy!!
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btw.. is the picture of the black caliper provided above real pics of your legen calipers because I like the BLACK!!!. Do the raybestos frc10627 and frc10628 come stock like that or you painted it?
05-25-2008, 12:41 PM
#27
I went to kragen for them- take printout from website for price match.
That is a pic of my actual legend calipers
they need to be painted black- the surface rust comes quickly
duplicolor caliper paint kit $10
remove the legend brackets before painting as you wont need them, and paint the tl brackets and the calipers
That is a pic of my actual legend calipers
they need to be painted black- the surface rust comes quickly
duplicolor caliper paint kit $10
remove the legend brackets before painting as you wont need them, and paint the tl brackets and the calipers
05-25-2008, 12:44 PM
#28
interesting math- but 73 is the part price you PAY- PER caliper- and the EXTRA 30 dollars is a refundable core charge when you bring back a set of used calipers- they dont subtract 30 dollars from the 70--the part cost what it cost
If you dont bring back any parts for them to rebuild--they KEEP the 30 dollar core charge making total price 100 per caliper.
If you dont bring back any parts for them to rebuild--they KEEP the 30 dollar core charge making total price 100 per caliper.
05-25-2008, 07:58 PM
#30
do not paint anywhere near the pistons or inside the caliper at all- tape over the pistons to be safe if you are going to get wild with the painting!!
paint the outside of it on the top part, and the side that faces outside the car
paint the external parts- not the brake bleeder nipple area, or risk paint in threads
Its simple when you look at the caliper
I use several coats/layers of paint just like the directions on the box said to
Keep the rest of the paint for touchups or buddies cars.
get some extra flux brushes- very small 1/4 inch wide paint type brush- the paint sets up fast and then you have a solid thing to try for the next coat of paint- which doesnt work at all!
paint the outside of it on the top part, and the side that faces outside the car
paint the external parts- not the brake bleeder nipple area, or risk paint in threads
Its simple when you look at the caliper
I use several coats/layers of paint just like the directions on the box said to
Keep the rest of the paint for touchups or buddies cars.
get some extra flux brushes- very small 1/4 inch wide paint type brush- the paint sets up fast and then you have a solid thing to try for the next coat of paint- which doesnt work at all!
05-25-2008, 07:59 PM
#31
there is a good DIY on it in the DIY section
05-26-2008, 01:56 PM
#33
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I have the front Legend GS calipers on my 02 TL-S with stock OEM calipers and pads.
To be honest, they made a noticible difference however i couldnt justify getting aftermarket rotors and pads as the stock TL-S rotors work fine after my 10,000 miles of driving without any sign of warping. The only thing additional that was done was changing the brake fluid fully for both front and rears.
Slotted and cross drilled will probably not offer any noticible benefit other than the "advertised cooling effect" which probably wont be exhibited in day to day street driving. Besides having decreased braking surface area, its hard to justify those over the blanks but that's a judgement call for you to make.
good luck
To be honest, they made a noticible difference however i couldnt justify getting aftermarket rotors and pads as the stock TL-S rotors work fine after my 10,000 miles of driving without any sign of warping. The only thing additional that was done was changing the brake fluid fully for both front and rears.
Slotted and cross drilled will probably not offer any noticible benefit other than the "advertised cooling effect" which probably wont be exhibited in day to day street driving. Besides having decreased braking surface area, its hard to justify those over the blanks but that's a judgement call for you to make.
good luck
05-26-2008, 02:40 PM
#34
The stock rotors are known to warp fairly easy, and not last all that long when comnpared to the newest technology.
The average driver these days finds themself cruising at 80++ on the freeway and suddenly there is nothing but brake lights ahead of you....thats when good shocks, good rotors, good pads, good calipers, all come to the rescue!
Even in normal traffic, where its repeated 40-50mph to 10 in an instant, then back to speed and sudden slow- the advanced cooling features on some brands pays off in preventing warping, and the side slots keep the pads clean for max efficiency. I'm not much on crossdrilled unless you autocross race or live in the steep part of the mountains and put the brakes to severe use all the time.
If you have not driven a TL with certain mods- or gone door to door in braking test of your stock pads/rotors-legend calipers, against same calipers and upgraded parts, how can you say the stock brakes parts are fine?
But thats my opinion
The average driver these days finds themself cruising at 80++ on the freeway and suddenly there is nothing but brake lights ahead of you....thats when good shocks, good rotors, good pads, good calipers, all come to the rescue!
Even in normal traffic, where its repeated 40-50mph to 10 in an instant, then back to speed and sudden slow- the advanced cooling features on some brands pays off in preventing warping, and the side slots keep the pads clean for max efficiency. I'm not much on crossdrilled unless you autocross race or live in the steep part of the mountains and put the brakes to severe use all the time.
If you have not driven a TL with certain mods- or gone door to door in braking test of your stock pads/rotors-legend calipers, against same calipers and upgraded parts, how can you say the stock brakes parts are fine?
But thats my opinion
05-26-2008, 02:42 PM
#35
For slightly more than the good rotors at local parts stores- I was able to go with what I felt where the hi tech option best suited to my driving style and needs.
When you see blanks are 75-90 dollars, and for a few more dollars you can get rotora or racing brake or ebc- all quality brands with extra design features...to me it was an easy decision. Front brakes do 70 percent of the work- get the best you can find for the front~
When you see blanks are 75-90 dollars, and for a few more dollars you can get rotora or racing brake or ebc- all quality brands with extra design features...to me it was an easy decision. Front brakes do 70 percent of the work- get the best you can find for the front~
06-07-2008, 06:50 PM
#36
I've had NSX calipers, stoptech rotors and ceramic brakes pads with S.S. brake lines for 8k miles and LOVE them. Firmer pedal and much better feel. Also did brake fluid flush with Motul brake fluid. Just my 2 cents.....
06-08-2008, 01:56 AM
#37
-Arsenic-
Originally Posted by VIP typ-S
I've had NSX calipers, stoptech rotors and ceramic brakes pads with S.S. brake lines for 8k miles and LOVE them. Firmer pedal and much better feel. Also did brake fluid flush with Motul brake fluid. Just my 2 cents.....
06-08-2008, 02:20 AM
#39
-Arsenic-
Originally Posted by bibledriver
and how did you mount them
The last time I looked these up, they were $1,000 A PIECE. Thats why I'm curious.
06-08-2008, 06:38 AM
#40
They mounted the same way the Legend calipers do. Switched sides and used my brkt's. The only differance is they say NSX on them. They are the same calipers. I $500.00 for frt and rear calipers. I met a guy in SCCA that was doing a Big Brake kit on his NSX. I just got LUCKY. I wouldn't pay big money for NSX calipers. You can buy the same caliper without NSX on for $125.00 each from XL-Parts. I can't stress enough, the most important thing is flushing your brake fluid. You would not believe how discolored the fluid was that came out of my brake system.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.