229.1hp and 202lb

aem pulleys
aem cold air intake
hks drager exhaust
comptech headers
a'pexi vafc

havent tuned the vtec controller yet =(
im still waiting for my comptech icebox to come in before i tune the v-afc. hopefully ill be at like 238-240 cause my cars runnin really weird right now.....(air/fuel ratio)


heres a video
http://www.acurainspired.com/gallery...album80&page=3

 

do you have a type s? please tell me you do cus with the ct headers, you should be 230ish with just that hope all goes well..

JON

 

yea i have a type-s. the thing is that my v-afc is runnin really weird....havent tuned it at all yet.

 

umm.....awesome vid !!!

 

Forgive my ignorance, but how does do the dyno numbers correlate to the reputed 260hp/232ftlbs torque that the Type S should have?

 

the dyno is the horsepower at the wheels! not what the engine is putting out. I believe....

 

I agree. You may see these types of numbers listed as "bhp" also. braking horsepower ?

 

I'm almost 100% sure that BHP means Bore HorsePower. Basically the number at the crank. Whenever you see HP advertised, it's what the engine puts out. Typically a car loses anywhere from 15% to 25% of that power through the tranny depending on the configuration of the tranny (manual or auto) and the efficiency of said tranny.

Typically a stock CL-S/TL-S dynos between 195-205 HP (average is around 200hp). With headers alone you should be around 228 or so. Once you toon that V-AFC you'll be in good shape. Personally I think you should just remove it and you'll be better off. Even the best tuned V-AFC's only provide about 3-5 more HP. Not worth the trouble in my book.....

 

At the Orlando meet, I met 'importcult' who has a very good looking TL-S. He has OBX headers, partial HKS exhaust, Injen intake on top of the suspension pieces. He also had the V-AFC and said it was tuned and likely gave 15hp and a little more torque than that.
He had 19's and a large sub enclosure, though it was fiberglass and some cosmetic parts adding some more weight.
Anyway, his car seemed to be no quicker than mine though I must say his mid range felt particularly different. He claimed the V-AFC was assisting the VTEC at a lower RPM range and this is where the significant gain comes in...
I'm still interested in the VAFC though I have some warranty issues I want straight first with my dealer-especially as I have a bit of a different tranny issue-and I want more input from other users as well...
This post scares me as it concerns apparent LOSS OF performance which I certainly don't want...

 

It's actually been pretty much proven that initiating V-TEC below it's current engagement point not only does not provide more HP (just give a little more punch at a different RPM, but not more HP), but is also bad for the engine. If you search on acl.com you'll probably find more details....

 

BHP == Brake Horsepower

It's measured at the crank, and its "static" HP. The engine's power is measured at a particular RPM -- this in contrast to an inertial dyno, where a drum is rotated and inertial issues – in the drive train and engine -- impact the measured output.


MORE INFO ON MEASURING HP LINK: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/power3.htm

 

...and this is why we are all here...Details...
Thanks JB...

 

I'm getting my V-AFC tuned in a week or two...I'll post my results.

 

ill post my results too after i tune it. i remember when i had stock i ran 198hp and after tuning it i put out 214 at the wheels with just intake and the v-afc.

 

No problem

Keep in mind that I'm not saying the V-AFC isnt' worth it... it's just that I've seen 50/50 reviews of it. Some people have had significant gains while others have not. Personally, I'm waiting until my warranty runs out before messing with anything like that

 

warranty is no problem. you put it in your glove box and lock it up

 

LOL.. I already have plans for the glove box... sunglass holder too . Oh well... I'll just have to wait a while for now

 

Thats where I have mine (the sunglass holder). My car is going to be at the dealer for a good three days. I hope they don't accidently hit it and have it come down.:o

"doh"
- Homer Simpson

 

The whole warranty thing scares me in that if you have problems with a sensor-or likely even your tranny, the dealer is gonna get to your ECU to run a check and then they will find the V-AFC or alterations...Even if they ignore it, I bet it will screw up your settings if the boot in...
Personally, I don't know if the above is true, but it seems probable...

 

The VAFC can simply be an expensive set of gauges. Right now I'm currently running stock settings on my Apex'i. I really don't see anything wrong with that.

 

nope.......i had the v-afc....and i had my tranny blew. i had the v-afc sitting out and the dealer just went ahead and fixed it. the only thing that scared me was the settings being erased because the batter was disconnected for a long time......well luckily it didnt =)

 

I OWN A 99 TL AND I HAVE A VAFC BUT DONT KNOW HOW TO TUNE IT COULD U LET ME KNOW HOW U HAVE YOURS TUNED UP BECAUSE THE WAY I HAVE IT RIGHT KNOW MY CAR WONT REV PAST 5300 BEFORE YOU HEAR THE MOTOR CHOCK AND IT MAKES THIS FUUNY SOUND LIKE IF IT WONT GO ANYMORE

 

damn..........i had that problem the first few minutes i had someone install it........i htink he wired one of the wires incorrectly. but it doesnt do it anymore

the only way to tune is a dyno-tune. u have to strap it on a dyno and use somethin to see the air/fuel ratio.

 

do u by any chance know what wire that was that was hooked up incorrectly

 

sorry i dont

 

where does your car rev up to with the vtec controller

 

revs up to the stock rev limiter........8000 or watever it is

 

7200 RPMS

 

you might wanna have some one who deals with this kind of stuff take a look at it and have it tuned professionally.

 

i htink they installed it wrong........mine does not do that at all

when the motor stops revving, its the ecu making it stop...so something is wrong with the v-afc installation

 

wow sexy car and awesome video:wow: