Folks,

First, let me say this site once again proves itself invaluable! After doing numerous searches on the topic, I felt I could do it myself and save money instead of going to the (s)tealership and pay $60!

So, I went to a local Honda dealer and picked up 6 quarts of the Acura/Honda Transmission Fluid and a new crush washer for right at $30. The Acura parts dept down the road wanted about 15% more for the same shit..whatever!

Then, got home, took the TLs out of the garage and warmed the tranny up a little by going around the block and working all the gears in SS mode for about 10 minutes.

Put the car up on my rhino ramps, can't believe it went up there without dragging on my front end kit and I'm lowered on H&R sports.

I had the oil jet recall done about 5K ago, so I was a little nervous about pulling it out of the tranny block. But, after loosening the bolt next to the oil jet, it pulled right out with no effort and wrapped it in a small towel to prevent it from leaking back onto the tranny block.

Then, slid under the car and proceeded to loosen the drain bolt. What a bitch that was. I used a 3/8" ratchet and used all my might, but the bolt wouldn't budge. Then, I found a short hollow metal pipe to slide over the ratchet and it gave me more leverage. And voila..the bolt clicked and it was nice and loose.

Then, I slowly took out the bolt, not realizing the Niagra Falls of transmission fluid that would come racing out of it. WOW! Needless to say, my oil pan couldn't handle the force of the fluid and some splashed onto the garage floor, but not to bad. For those who haven't done this, be prepared for this. Perhaps loosen the bolt and let the magnet part hang on to slow the force down or use a splash shield of some type.

My fluid was rather dark, not reddish or pink at all! Almost the color of engine oil about half way through it's cycle.
I got 35K miles on my 2003 TL-s.

Tightened up the drain bolt.

Then, I let it drain until not a drop appeared. I then got my long funnel and filled up the tranny fluid in the hole the jet kit was in.

I then pushed the oil jet back in the filler hole and pushed til it kind of clicked a little. Then, tightened down the little bolt to the left of it.

Started the car and got to a level surface. Checked the tranny level. All was good. Then, went around the block and really put it through it's paces on SS mode. Let me say that I immediately noticed way smoother shifting!

Got it home, checked the level. All good again.

Then, got back on the ramps and repeated the entire procedure. The fluid on the 2nd drain was much better looking, but not quite as red as I would of liked it to be.

So now, the car shifts even better and I saved about $30. Actually more if you think about it since the dealer only does a "1" drain and about 3 quarts vs my "2" drains and 6 quarts.

Thanks again to everyone that discussed this subject. It helped me out tremendously. And I must say, the search feature on Acura-TL.com is a one stop shop for information. I'm glad I use it, others should do the same!

 

was the bolt next to jet kit really tight? i am going to buy an extension to remove that thing!

 

just use something to hit your ratchet folks, a hammer... another 1/2" ratchet, something.... you dont need a breaker bar...

 

That's really not a good sign. It sounds like either burnt fluid (did it smell burnt?) or clutch material oxydizing and abrading from the clutches.

I wouldn't be suprised if we see a post from you about joining the "new tranny club" soon.

 

Well, I went back to look at the fluid now that it's daylight and there is some red in it. This is the original drain I did, so it probably isn't as dark as I originally thought. The magnetic plug didn't have a whole lot of sludge and shavings stuck to it.

I pray this car will hold up for a while. I have to drive from Denver to the Gulf Coast this coming weekend. The car is giving me no signs of tranny deterioration. In fact, the car shifts much smoother now. If the tranny does fail, I am getting it repaired and it will go right up on autotrader.com or craigslist.org
Then, I'll just get my 2003 Lexus GS430 or perhaps another sport sedan with a manual tranny. I know the GS is auto.

 

Well, I used a 24" extension from autozone ($9.00). That gives quite a bit of torque. It was tight, but with that extension, no worries at all. Then, attached my ratchet and it came off pretty easy. Keep in mind, I have the jet kit installed, so I don't actually unscrew the fill bolt. My oil jet goes in there and just to the left is the bolt that "clamps" the oil jet in. It's weird how that doesn't leak, but it doesn't.

 

My fluid was dark as shit. 40k of HARD driving.

But you're right -- I immediately felt the transmission shifting better, too.

 

the first time a read it i was a cynic, i said, "yeah sure it does"


but fawk if it doesnt!! the car is way smoother now!

 

May I ask why twice?I just changed out my trans fluld this weekend so does this mean I have to do it again just to be safe?



Thank Huey
00 3.2 tl
01 s2ooo
91 mr2 turbo

 

Because when you drain it, only 3 quarts come out. The capacity is just over 8 quarts. Therefore, you have to drain and refill, dilute it with new fluid, then drain again.

I drained mine 3 times. That's what Acura recommends.

 

The only reason I did 2 drain n' fills instead of 3 is because the dealership didn't have any more fluid in stock and I wanted to get it done since I am leaving on a trip. My fluid appears pretty red now, so I think I'm good to go to 60K. I'm leary of doing the tranny flush though. I think I'll just keep doing drain and fills until about 75K and then think about a flush. I hear from too many people that flushes are not recommended for our cars.

 

Um, then why would you do a flush at 75K?

 

how do you know when if you've put the right amount of fluid in? Can you see the fluid levels through the hole? Do you just put in three quarts?

some have said on other threads that you put in as much as you took out...but i'm not about to measure the fluid...

sorry for the noob question...

 

3 quarts comes out. So put in 3 quarts.

 

make sure the car is real hot otherwise not everything may come out... warm tranny fluid flows properly

 

I dunno. Some Acura dealers say to do it, some don't. I wish someone had a definitive answer. If Acura doesn't recommend it, then why do the dealers still do it?

 

The tranny has a dipstick just like the oil. I think the handle is yellow if I remember right. If you are looking at your engine from the front, it's the one to your right.

 

I drove my car for awhile before I did it. That fluid flowed like crazy. Use a towel to wrap your hand in as you are unscrewing the drain though. Also, if you have an old bucket you can use, I would highly recommend that instead of one of those flatter reuseable oil drain collectors. The force of the fluid will splash, but a bucket will help contain the fluid better as it rushes out. I should of done that. Next time, I will.

 

thanks for the two suggestions...they are helpful as I will be trying to do this in the coming weeks...

 

dude after doing the flush two or three times in a row that fluid burns more and more

 

So true, so true! But it flowed out like a mutha fukka when I drained it!

 

I plan on doing a drain and refill this coming weekend. I was wondering where exactly is the oil jet bolt or filler? So I have to loosen a bolt next to the oil jet before I pull the oil jet bolt out?...Let me know. Thanks.

 

The service manual actually says to do it 3 times.

Sometimes I wonder if Acura's problem is that their tranny is too tiny. Only 3 quarts drains out. In my Pontiac GTP, when I drained the tranny (only a 4 speed), 9 quarts came out. And the dry capacity of that sucker is 13 quarts.

From what I heard, even the 5AT on my G35 will drain 8 quarts, when you pull the drain plug. (I haven't done a flush n' fill on it yet)

But yeah, when I did a flush n' fill on our 03' TL-P, the fluid was dark, and kinda burnt smelling. After the flush n' fill, I had the jet kit installed a few weeks later. Then a few weeks after that, I joined the new tranny club.

 

This is mentioned in this post as well as on a search. The bolt direclty to the left of the oil jet needs to be removed, then grab the jet and pull it straight out. Use a rag to wrap the jet and then let it hang off the side. The rag keeps it from dripping down the engine/tranny.

The jet actaully goes into the fill hole. Since we have the jet kits, the normal "fill bolt" is removed to accomodate the jet kit. Then, you fill the tranny back up with a long funnel where the oil jet kit goes, then after filling, put the jet kit back in (simply pushes in). Re-insert the bolt to the left and tighten, then push on the jet kit to make sure it seats on the filler hole, then tighten some more, push, tighten, etc.

Don't worry, I was a bit nervous too messing with the jet kit, but then once I got into it, it was easy. Try to get a 1 ft extention socket to get to the bolt. I used a 2ft extension from AutoZone. Man, the torque it generates was plenty to get the bolt off.

 

question do i really need ramps/a jacks to do this mod? i wanan do it tommorrow if anythin cuz i think my shifts r bit tuff goin into 2nd, 3rd, is it hard to access the drain bolt or will the ramps make me save nuff time?

 

I think it is possible to reach it without jacking the car up or even on ramps but it would make it a lot easier though.

 

I wouldn't do it without ramps or a lift. Invest in some Rhino Ramps from AutoZone, PepBoys or Checker/Kragen. They are tough plastic ramps that are really light weight and they are sloped enough to allow my lowered TLs with body kit to still go up on the ramps. Plus, it gives you some good room to do the job. I love these ramps!

 

I had a few 3rd gear slips over the course of a month and changed mine recently.

Fuid was red-brown. Did not really smell burnt. Double flushed it and notice that
it does shift a bit smoother and I have had no more slips.

Anyone else have this happen?

I'm probabaly just stalling off the inevitable failure.

(changed at 30k and now 50k)

/Steve

 

I'd also like to add that Pennzoil/Quaker State Multi-Vehicle ATF is an alternative to the Honda Z-1 fluid, and is easier to obtain. Please see the thread I wrote about how much "old" fluid remains in the system even after three drain/refills: https://acurazine.com/forums/ramblings-12/atention-jay-z-fans-118898/

Michael

 

Anyone know what the tightening torque is for the drain bolt. I am going to do it tomorrow for the frist time. 03 tl-s with 31,000 miles and original tranny (for now).

 

hand tight without going crazy....

unles someone gives you a good number, but I've done this like 20 times now in the life of the car, and more than that on other cars... it's just like an oilpan, hand tight within reason (i am beefy! j/k)

 

it is if you have a shallow pan

 

No more than 30 ft-lbs. Use your best judgement....BTW, consider using Pennzoil Multi-Vehicle ATF...I'd like to see someone use it and report back to Acurazine and let us know how well it works..it is compatible in Honda Z-1 applications.

Michael

 

i dont think expermentation is a good idea with our baby transmissions.... i'd only use atf-z1 in there, the overwhelming majority of users here agree it is the only atf to be used....

 

 

Then why don't you use it?

 

I have it running in a few Honda Z-1 apps and it works fine.

Michael

 

Cool ive been dying to change mines i bought my TL with 40k on it and i did not know when the previous owner changed it. so now it has 50k so i want to change it. the oil jet kit is installed on mines is it the black tube thing that sits right on the top of the housing?? i have to do it already. i have like 4 qts but im going to do it 2x for better peace of mind.

ohh and i would only use the ATF-Z1 cause if acura catches you with out the Z-1 you void the warrenty. so to have a warrenty that last for 100k vs saving a few bucks then id go for the extra buck for Z1. plus the Z1 is made by Idemitsu. they supposing have one of the best fluids around..so cant complain except for the price. haha

 

Our tranny just cooks the fluid and turns it to a dark color quickly. I drained and refilled 3 times and in 12k, it goes dark again.

 

A longer extension does not increase torque. A longer ratchet at the end would.