J35 swap project
#81
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Iggy, did you end up using the J35 coils packs or the one's from the J32?
Also, did you have any help, outside yourself, when removing the J32 or installing the J35?
Could one man do this job if he had the proper engine hoist and took his time?
Last edited by zeta; 03-01-2018 at 06:29 PM.
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zeta (03-01-2018)
#83
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
My brother helped with the pull and insert. It was definitely nice having an extra set off eyes but it is totally doable solo. Having a load leveler is a must!
#84
I used the J35 coils, figured they are pretty low mileage so why not. Also ended up using the cooler spark plugs that the J35 specs call for.
My brother helped with the pull and insert. It was definitely nice having an extra set off eyes but it is totally doable solo. Having a load leveler is a must!
My brother helped with the pull and insert. It was definitely nice having an extra set off eyes but it is totally doable solo. Having a load leveler is a must!
#86
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
^^ I had one of the stands but borrowed the other one and the hoist. I grabbed the load leveler from Harbor freight which was $40 and worth every penny.
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gnuts (03-04-2018)
#88
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just a quick update. Went on my first road trip since the new install and I got to say wow! Highway passing performance is way better than before. For some reason I just can't keep my foot off the gas pedal. Haha.
I'm kind of pissed I didn't reseal the oil pan while I had it on the stand, I should have known better. Oh well, another project sometime
I'm kind of pissed I didn't reseal the oil pan while I had it on the stand, I should have known better. Oh well, another project sometime
#89
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Just a quick update. Went on my first road trip since the new install and I got to say wow! Highway passing performance is way better than before. For some reason I just can't keep my foot off the gas pedal. Haha.
I'm kind of pissed I didn't reseal the oil pan while I had it on the stand, I should have known better. Oh well, another project sometime
I'm kind of pissed I didn't reseal the oil pan while I had it on the stand, I should have known better. Oh well, another project sometime
In addition, with the AV6 auto trans being 'put through its paces' so far, is there anything different, that you notice, in how it is performing with the more powerful J35A3 compared to the stock J32? I understand it is very early in the 'post swap evaluation'; however, do you feel the AV6 tranny will be up to the long term task? Impressions/thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
#90
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Zeta. Not sure what you mean by inhibiting, but I haven't noticed any general difference. The TCS/VSA system has kicked in a few times starting from a dead stop but that's only because I forgot to switch the system off.
The AV6 handles it just fine and I see no reason why it wouldn't last. Nice clean crisp shifts. Replacing the rear motor mount with OEM really has changed the feel of the shifts and overall smoothness of the vehicle. No more jarring throughout the car during aggressive acceleration.
The AV6 handles it just fine and I see no reason why it wouldn't last. Nice clean crisp shifts. Replacing the rear motor mount with OEM really has changed the feel of the shifts and overall smoothness of the vehicle. No more jarring throughout the car during aggressive acceleration.
#91
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The AV6 handles it just fine and I see no reason why it wouldn't last. Nice clean crisp shifts. Replacing the rear motor mount with OEM really has changed the feel of the shifts and overall smoothness of the vehicle. No more jarring throughout the car during aggressive acceleration.
Thanks again.
#93
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just filled after burning through my 1st full tank of gas. Mostly highway miles averaging 75-80mph and a LOT of aggressive foot stomping I got 26MPG. Not too bad. I'm thinking with normal driving the 28MPG will be easy to get.
Last edited by Iggy; 03-09-2018 at 07:12 PM.
#94
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I do have some intermittent exhaust resonance at idle in gear and a faint leak during acceleration somewhere with this header setup even after retorquing all the flange bolts. I'll have to tear it apart to see what's going on.
#95
Racer
I could be wrong, but I think that the resonance is just a fact of life with these headers because I noticed the same thing as you after I installed mine and I can feel it the most in the floorpan area with the car in gear at idle. It was even more pronounced when I had an XLR8 high flow cat installed. In my case, the resonance seems to die down for the most part as the exhaust warms up. I've checked all my flanges and I don't hear any exhaust leaks under the hood or under the car.
Maybe others who have the DC Sports headers installed on these motors will chime in with their experiences.
Maybe others who have the DC Sports headers installed on these motors will chime in with their experiences.
#96
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Granted theses aren't $800 pipes but they aren't $100 cheepos either. There must be a solution.
Last edited by Iggy; 03-10-2018 at 01:01 PM.
#97
This is interesting to me because in my '03 TL-P (196K) I just filled up and got 31.4 MPG. I have no idea how.
#98
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#99
Yeah I set my trip religiously and monitor my MPG so that I can be aware of potential problems before they become serious (years ago a significant drop in MPG gave me about 3-4 weeks notice on my trans crapping out). This time around I went over 450 miles on the tank and filled up 14.511 gallons.
I'm suspicious that our engines are capable of getting better mileage than advertised.
I'm suspicious that our engines are capable of getting better mileage than advertised.
Last edited by Chojun; 03-14-2018 at 02:52 PM.
#101
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#103
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Everything you need is in this thread of Iggy's, if you DIY. He was real thorough with his documentation process.
Otherwise, as you already realize, the onus is on you to find your J35 and coordinate the 'swap' process with a third party.
Otherwise, as you already realize, the onus is on you to find your J35 and coordinate the 'swap' process with a third party.
#104
Gotcha yeah I was reading through everything but he has a type s, this would definitely be plug and play on a j32a1 harness and computer?
#105
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
It should. IIRC'ly you would have to take your J32a1 EGR; water passage and connecting pipe; Intake Manifold; throttle body; MAP sensor; coil packs. You'd have to remove the MDX IM spacer to get the hood shut. Do your research thoroughly, it's doable. If I ever grenade my S/C'ed J32A2, in goes a J35A3, in a heart beat.
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Accord316 (05-30-2020)
#106
It should. IIRC'ly you would have to take your J32a1 EGR; water passage and connecting pipe; Intake Manifold; throttle body; MAP sensor; coil packs. You'd have to remove the MDX IM spacer to get the hood shut. Do your research thoroughly, it's doable. If I ever grenade my S/C'ed J32A2, in goes a J35A3, in a heart beat.
#107
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
You do that by taking the following from your CL-S6 J32A2:
Front head cam pulley; front head cam backing plate, cam TDC sensors and sub harness
Timing belt drive pulley; crank sensor and sub harness; timing belt stopper plate (if it bugs you & you want the upper bolt fastener boss (you will see when you get there) for the TB stopper plate you need to transfer over the CL-S6 oil pump assembly to the J35A3; otherwise, the lower connection point, on the J35A3 should suffice. )
Transfer over the CL-S6 connecting pipe, water passage and EGR valve. IIRC'ly the MAP sensor on the J35A3 throttle body is different as well, so take the CL-S6 one. All this will enable a 'plug & play' swap as much as possible.
In addition, be careful with the harness connections when detaching and reattaching upon installation. Keep the pins straight and coolant/oil/debris out to avoid crank position & cam TDC sensor codes.
Good Luck!
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Accord316 (05-30-2020)
#108
Save the Manuals
iTrader: (1)
If you are swapping a J35A3 from an automatic '01-02 MDX you have to make it compatible to your factory manual CL-S6 set-up.
You do that by taking the following from your CL-S6 J32A2:
Front head cam pulley; front head cam backing plate, cam TDC sensors and sub harness
Timing belt drive pulley; crank sensor and sub harness; timing belt stopper plate (if it bugs you & you want the upper bolt fastener boss (you will see when you get there) for the TB stopper plate you need to transfer over the CL-S6 oil pump assembly to the J35A3; otherwise, the lower connection point, on the J35A3 should suffice. )
Transfer over the CL-S6 connecting pipe, water passage and EGR valve. IIRC'ly the MAP sensor on the J35A3 throttle body is different as well, so take the CL-S6 one. All this will enable a 'plug & play' swap as much as possible.
In addition, be careful with the harness connections when detaching and reattaching upon installation. Keep the pins straight and coolant/oil/debris out to avoid crank position & cam TDC sensor codes.
Good Luck!
You do that by taking the following from your CL-S6 J32A2:
Front head cam pulley; front head cam backing plate, cam TDC sensors and sub harness
Timing belt drive pulley; crank sensor and sub harness; timing belt stopper plate (if it bugs you & you want the upper bolt fastener boss (you will see when you get there) for the TB stopper plate you need to transfer over the CL-S6 oil pump assembly to the J35A3; otherwise, the lower connection point, on the J35A3 should suffice. )
Transfer over the CL-S6 connecting pipe, water passage and EGR valve. IIRC'ly the MAP sensor on the J35A3 throttle body is different as well, so take the CL-S6 one. All this will enable a 'plug & play' swap as much as possible.
In addition, be careful with the harness connections when detaching and reattaching upon installation. Keep the pins straight and coolant/oil/debris out to avoid crank position & cam TDC sensor codes.
Good Luck!
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Accord316 (06-16-2020)
#109
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Here's a picture of the two oil pump assemblies:
#111
If you are swapping a J35A3 from an automatic '01-02 MDX you have to make it compatible to your factory manual CL-S6 set-up.
You do that by taking the following from your CL-S6 J32A2:
Front head cam pulley; front head cam backing plate, cam TDC sensors and sub harness
Timing belt drive pulley; crank sensor and sub harness; timing belt stopper plate (if it bugs you & you want the upper bolt fastener boss (you will see when you get there) for the TB stopper plate you need to transfer over the CL-S6 oil pump assembly to the J35A3; otherwise, the lower connection point, on the J35A3 should suffice. )
Transfer over the CL-S6 connecting pipe, water passage and EGR valve. IIRC'ly the MAP sensor on the J35A3 throttle body is different as well, so take the CL-S6 one. All this will enable a 'plug & play' swap as much as possible.
In addition, be careful with the harness connections when detaching and reattaching upon installation. Keep the pins straight and coolant/oil/debris out to avoid crank position & cam TDC sensor codes.
Good Luck!
You do that by taking the following from your CL-S6 J32A2:
Front head cam pulley; front head cam backing plate, cam TDC sensors and sub harness
Timing belt drive pulley; crank sensor and sub harness; timing belt stopper plate (if it bugs you & you want the upper bolt fastener boss (you will see when you get there) for the TB stopper plate you need to transfer over the CL-S6 oil pump assembly to the J35A3; otherwise, the lower connection point, on the J35A3 should suffice. )
Transfer over the CL-S6 connecting pipe, water passage and EGR valve. IIRC'ly the MAP sensor on the J35A3 throttle body is different as well, so take the CL-S6 one. All this will enable a 'plug & play' swap as much as possible.
In addition, be careful with the harness connections when detaching and reattaching upon installation. Keep the pins straight and coolant/oil/debris out to avoid crank position & cam TDC sensor codes.
Good Luck!
#112
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#113
what about emissions ? My buddy said this maybe a potential issue for check engine lights or it may not pass emmisions
#114
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
There should not be any emission problems if you are running all the appropriate O2 sensors and cats that come with the CL-S6. The CL-S6 ECU will work with the J35A3 just fine. Even better if you take the J32A2 heads/cams or just the cams and make yourself a J35 Type-S.
#115
lol, there's always a potential for check engine lights when doing a swap. Just make sure to dot your i's and cross your t's when doing the swap to keep them to a minimum.
There should not be any emission problems if you are running all the appropriate O2 sensors and cats that come with the CL-S6. The CL-S6 ECU will work with the J35A3 just fine. Even better if you take the J32A2 heads/cams or just the cams and make yourself a J35 Type-S.
There should not be any emission problems if you are running all the appropriate O2 sensors and cats that come with the CL-S6. The CL-S6 ECU will work with the J35A3 just fine. Even better if you take the J32A2 heads/cams or just the cams and make yourself a J35 Type-S.
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