ive searched but most threads only explain how to apply it.

after ive poured it into the crank case, how long after should i get an oil change.

for the gas tank, do i pour it after ive pumped or before i pump gas?

should i get the seafoam into the vacuum line after i do an oil change or before?

 

!.) I poured into the crank case, then the next day drove straight to the dealer for maintenance (oil change was part of it). You probably don't want to drive too far/long with seafoam in your crank case.

2.) I don't think it matters. I prefer doing it before I pump gas. When I did mine, I had 1/2 tank of gas, and pour 1 can of seafoam into the gas tank. If you have a full tank of gas, then pour 2 cans. Actually, i can't remember the exact proportion (may be it was 1/2 can of seafoam for 1/2 tank of gas).

3.) I did the vacuum line and then crankcase.

 

thanks for the valuable information. its perfect! this should be stickied as instructions on how to use seafoam.


-Patch

 

make sure you use the main vac port AT THE TB
thats the pinkie finger sized hose with a clamp you squeeze open with 2 fingers- only 1 lke it there. Spray Deep Creep or use dip and sip method with spare piece of clear tubing so you can see how much is going in
remove the intake snout from airbox to TB and clean TB plate with carb cleaner

per seafoam: add 1 to 1.5 ounces per qt oil- about 1/3 can to 5 qts oil,, and drive 30 minutes/miles
That gives it enough time to `liquify` the carbon and sludge so it gets carried to the oil filter and oil pan
Oil pressure moves it faster than idle does!
I even do some vtec-5000 rpm blast to get their slider rails cleaned- important IMO

If your oil is really bad like an 80 chevy truck- install a new filter then foam it and drive.

Ok to do same with the TL - install any brand filter- foam and drive up to 150 miles, then change oil and filter WITH ENGINE WARM from drive- so the sludge is still liquid
I did that at 90k miles and there was a lot of stuff in a new filter~

When doing vac port it has no relation to oil change- seperate jobs, no time issue

Mixes best in gas when added first, but a few turns and road bumps does good enough
Add 16 ounce can to 8 gallons- just under a half tank for cleaning strength 2oz per gal
ok to repeat at 1 can to almost full tank- 1 to 1 dilution for maitenance every 5000 miles or at oil change time as a reminder of when

Another excellent fuel system cleaner is redline SI-1, 1 bottle to 1/2 tank

1st time foamers see www.seafoamsales.com for more official info from maker- there are many ways to use it-
the ziner DIY is crowded with bad info--see last pages for correct vac port

1st timers repeat gas and vac in a month- then good for a year

Lube the throttle cables and spring assembly while you have the engine cover off

 

Tom- The part I don't get, you reccomend that we install a cheapo brand filter before we do the 30 min drive, because the old filter may overflow with crap. But how do I install the new filter without creating a giant mess? Beause with oil still in the crank and if not drained wouldn't it just come all out where the filter is? I hope that made sense, because I've done the TB and gas tank method but never the crank.

My other question was I did the TB method last year, but about 4 months ago installed new spark plugs. Should I not do the TB method this year since I might gunk up the new spark plugs?

 

tom, how often do you use seamfoam on each application? i just want to make sure so i dont excessively use it and waste money. each can now cost $10...it use to cost 6.

 

the only time you need to worry about the plugs is if they have 100k miles on them
Then they would be weak and possibly load up if after drive not done right
Otherwise its never been an issue

The oil filter holds a small amount and when disconnected the engine does not drain any more out the opening--only under running pressure will it pump to filter
Is this your first time DIY oil change?

A neat trick- literally-
take a gallon size ziplock bag
Loosen the oil filter slightly
Slide bag up and around the filter- allow it to grab on, and turn filter to remove
The oil stays in the filter and in the bag

The throwaway filter method isnt needed in most cases of cleaner engines, but I like to do things an extra degree or two
I also did it so an inspection of what happens just from the seafoam cleaning could be made- cut open the filter and its very interesting

If you are driving 30 minutes,, probably not an issue
driving 150 to 500 miles on it would require a new filter for sure~

Do the gas and vac port once a year
1st timers should repeat in a month to finish off a massive initial cleaning
then good for a year 15k miles

 

I throw a can in the half tank of gas at oil change ~6000-7500 miles
(Ca gas has extra crud in it that needs to be cleaned up after)

vac port once a year - 1 can

oil, every other change/ once a year

 

Okay that is good to know! I've done my oil changes myself, but I've always drained the oil first and then removed the filter. So I assumed thats why it never leaked all over the place.
I have about 74k and have never done the crank, so would you reccomend to do the 2 filter method?

And to confirm the new place to load the seafoam or deepcreep would be to the metal nipple that is attached right to the throttle body correct?

 

GREAT INFORMATION!


thanks Tom,


-Patch

 

yeah the 2 filter method should give you a LOT of gunk in the filter.

and yes. i'd put in a pic, but can't find the original seafoam thread, used to be in performance parts and mods...will keep looking

 

seafoam diy moved to DIY section
iirc my pics with correct port start at post #147

Yes - the metal vac nipple with the hose attached to it by a small clamp-
you can squeeze with 2 fingers to open this clamp --Only one like it anywhere near there.

Direction and exact location of vac nipple varies with year, but you cant miss it once top engine plastic cover removed--Oh! thats the hose he meant- right here at the TB where its getting full vac pull of over 20 inches- enough to suck the hose tight to a finger and draw seafoam into tube from an inch above its surface- fun to make tornadoes in the bottle

Its definetly safer to spend 3 bucks on a new filter- add 1.5 oz per qt and drive 30-100 miles,,best if one long drive..but even a few days of normal driving will do
With a fresh filter its not a worry of filling up and bypassing so crud remains in system

for most thorough cleaing action- time is the element in oil method--seafoam says 30 miles/minutes basic cleaning,,,up to 500 miles extended cleaning
I went 150 miles
Must be warm oil when changed so goop in pan gets out too